Romancing the Roads (19 page)

I had heard about this center and its six museums, but little did I realize that every rave review and glowing comment was absolutely true. It is hard to use so many superlatives and remain credible. This is considered America’s finest western museum. Within its walls, you will find the
Buffalo Bill Museum
, the
Whi
tney Gallery of Western Art
, the
McCracken Research Library
, the
Plains Indian Museum
, the
Cody Firearms Museum
, and the
Draper Museum of Natural History
. Each is exceptional.

Adults will be honored to have the experience of viewing these exhibits, and children will be fascinated. Plan to spend some time here in a slow fashion. There are places to dine and shop.

While in Cody, I met the famous artist Harry Jackson, whose work is displayed at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. At first I viewed the man as a scruffy western-looking gent, but I soon learned of his talents and visited with him at his studio. What a hoot. There must be something in the Cody air or water because, the first prominent American abstract painter, Jackson Pollock, was born in Cody.

Meeteetse Chocolatier

1943 State St., Meeteetse

307-868-2567

www.meeteetsechocolatier.com

I am anxious to visit this town, just thirty minutes from Cody, where in 2000 the population was 351 and now, who knows? It has a great story. Bronco rider Tim Kellogg needed a new saddle. They were expensive, costing $1,400 and up. His mother suggested that he make and sell some of his grandmother’s chocolates at the
Cody Stampede
to raise some funds. Like most sons and daughters, his first answer to this parental suggestion was no! Mother prevailed and got a booth at the stampede, and just to keep mother happy, Tim made the chocolates. As it turned out, he could not keep an adequate supply on hand. Each day they sold out pronto. And so it started. Remember, always listen to your mother! And the rest is history. Look this little emporium up on the Internet. You’ll see Tim in front of his store. Then check out the list of items and the in-store events. What a decadent discovery! I look forward to visiting.

FYI:
These decadent delights contain
no
sugar, additives, or preservatives.

Driving Diva Suggestion:
Read and research all about Yellowstone National Park
before
arriving. It is awesome, and there are so many things to see.

Yellowstone National Park

Leave Cody
via Highway 20 to Highway 14/16, where you can enter Yellowstone at the east entrance.

Driving Diva Factoid
:
All of Yellowstone National Park is in Wyoming except a small part, which Wikipedia states is in Idaho. West Yellowstone is in Montana.

Awesome, fantastic, breathtaking, unbelievable, amazing, enormous, incredible: Those are just some of the adjectives you will apply to this great place. Take time to plan your Yellowstone experience. There is a tremendous amount to see and do here. It was over 640,000 years ago that the climactic event that formed Yellowstone took place.

There are several different entrances into the park. The well-marked roads in Yellowstone make a big loop. You should plot your route in the park and drive and enjoy.

Yellowstone has 300 miles of roads and 950 miles of hiking trails. It is imperative that rules and regulations be adhered to. Remember that you are on the turf of the Yellowstone animals. They do not mind if you look and photograph, but don’t get too close. Just because you think they are engrossed in their eating, don’t be a fool. They know just where you are and can get angry in a split second. Do not gamble!

Old Faithful
is the most predictable and most publicized of all the geysers. It erupts faithfully, every sixty-three to seventy-five minutes, discharging about three to eight thousand gallons of water with a temperature of 204 degrees Fahrenheit. The water reaches a height of 90 to 184 feet.

Although most everyone talks about Old Faithful and waits to see this geyser perform, a bigger and more spectacular geyser,
Grand Geyser
, is not too far away. This one requires patience, but it is worth the wait. The Grand Geyser usually goes off about every twelve hours, but its timing is not exact. It erupts with a broad fountain spray, whereas Old Faithful erupts in a hose-like, cone-type spray. There are two smaller geysers on each side of Grand Geyser called the
Vent Geyser
and the
Turban Geyser
. These smaller geysers are connected hydrodynamically. When Vent Geyser starts to rumble, that usually indicates that Grand is about to do its performance. Then, Turban starts, and the show really begins. Grand Geyser reaches heights of 150 to 200 feet. Not to be outdone, the smaller geysers will continue to erupt and play for about an hour after Grand has finished. Sometimes, without any indication, Grand will show off with another eruption that is often higher and stronger than the first. It is worth the wait to see.

Yellowstone’s Lower Falls and Upper Falls are beautiful.
Can
yon Village
is the perfect place to take a deep breath, get a beverage, “see a man about a horse” (use the facilities), and shop for souvenirs.

You will also see the
Fountain Paint Pot area
, as well as hot springs, mud pots, fumaroles, spectacular waterfalls, flora and fauna, and on and on. There is no end to what you will encounter in Yellowstone. Remember to help preserve this magnificent wonderland, and don’t do anything stupid because, remember, you are on the animals’ turf.

Driving Diva Factoid:
In 1872 President Ulysses S. Grant signed the legislation to create Yellowstone as the world’s first national park.

Hotels

Your budget
will determine where you lodge. There is something for everyone, including
Old Faithful Inn
,
Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Cabins
, and
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins
(866-439-7375, www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com). These three grand hotels of Yellowstone are wonderful, unique, comfortable, and clean. There are also cabin and lodge accommodations available. Be sure to make your reservations early.

Old Faithful Inn is extraordinary. Built in 1903, it has sixty-five-foot ceilings, massive fireplaces, lodgepole pine railings, and more. When you enter, you will feel dwarfed by it all. The Old Faithful Inn is just a short distance from
Old Faithful Geyser
.

Reservations are required in the wonderful, well-run, full-service dining rooms, which I adore. There are also cafeterias and fast food options. Some of the lodges have special dining functions, such as the
Old West Dinner Cookout
at
Roosevelt Lodge
, which I hear is a special event.

Driving Diva Tip:
Remember to keep your national park pass with you so you can reenter the parks.

Grand Tetons National Park

It is
a pleasant experience to drive south toward
Jackson
out of Yellowstone for an afternoon of discoveries and to view the
Tetons
from a different perspective. If you start early, it is not a problem to get to Jackson for the day and back to Yellowstone before dark. Preferably, spend time in the Jackson area.

The Tetons are a spectacular mountain range and so distinctive that you won’t mix them up with any other.
Grand Teton National Park
(www.nps.gov/grte) is located just south of Yellowstone and north of Jackson. These impressive mountains rose millions of years ago when the earth’s crust cracked along the fault.

I had been in
Jackson Hole
several times and seen the area, but never from this vantage point. As you look out over the dark blue of
Jackson Lake
, dotted with a few anchored boats, the massive snow-capped Tetons in the background are indeed a beautiful sight.

Leeks Marina and Pizzeria

89 National Park Rd.

303-543-2494

What a delightful place to lunch. It is a beautiful setting, especially if you sit on the porch overlooking the marina. Everything is delicious and sensibly priced. It is extremely female friendly.

Jackson (Population Approximately 9,000)

More than
twenty-five years ago, my older son went to camp in Jackson (Teton Valley Ranch Camp) and subsequently became a counselor. He always raved about the spectacular scenery and how fantastic rafting on the
Snake River
, as well as the hiking and horseback riding, were. I didn’t doubt him, but only when I saw the area with my own eyes did I realize how true his words were. Camp life in these surroundings is a special experience.

Jackson is well-heeled, and the residents act accordingly. It is an attractive western area, with nature, wildlife, and physical activity a part of each resident’s lifestyle. In the winter, skiing is very popular. The bold Tetons are your constant companions.

Jackson in the summer is filled with tourists, but I have not found it too objectionable. The natives might not agree. My summer experiences in Jackson were always fun and interesting.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Jackson is the name of the actual town, while the valley is called Jackson Hole.

In the past several years, the cultural environment has improved and grown in Jackson. A good example is the
Grand Teton Music Festival.

Grand Teton Music Festival

4015 N. Lake Creek Dr., No. 100, Wilson

307-733-3050

www.gtmf.org

The festival started in 1962 and struggled until it achieved today’s prominence. For many years, the performances were held under a tent, but then in 1974
Walk Festival Hall
was opened.

Visitors Center

25 S. Willow, Ste. 10

307-732-0629

www.gtnpf.org

Opened in the summer of 2007, this multi-million-dollar structure is grand. The big glass windows frame the Teton Range, providing a splendid backdrop to the great exhibits.

There are many western presentations in Jackson to enjoy, including the world’s longest-running shoot-out, which is held six times a week in the
Jackson Town Square
. On the third Saturday in May, there is the world’s only public auction of elk antlers. This too takes place in the square. The
National Elk Refuge
(307-733-9212, www.fws.gov/nationalelkrefuge) is located on the north edge of town. The Boy Scouts collect shed antlers, which are then auctioned; the proceeds go to the elk-feeding program. (I adore such events and programs.) Like every tourist, you must have your picture taken at one of the four famous
Antler Arches
in downtown Jackson.

To list all the eateries and lodgings in Jackson would take pages. Suffice it to say, there is something for everyone, and, of course, you can always picnic or camp out, if that is your desire.

Parkway Inn

125 N. Jackson St.

307-733-3143

www.parkwayinn.com

This is very convenient to town and to many of the local events. The on-site parking is easy. The decor in the rooms is pleasing, with attractive antiques and handmade quilts on the beds. A delicious complimentary breakfast is served in the breakfast lounge. Everyone seems to meet here and discuss his or her Wyoming agenda.

There are many upscale hotels to choose from if your budget permits.

The private homes and ranches are impressive with primarily western decor. I enjoyed seeing the homes, viewing the area, and visiting with people—especially school chums. But this water lover began to feel a tiny bit landlocked after a while, even with all the beautiful lakes and the Snake River.

Regardless, this awesome area is a should- and must-see.

Reel Women Inc.

PO Box 24, Wilson

307-413-6671 or 208-787-2657

reel-women.com

I could not leave this tidbit out. I insert this here as so much of Reel Women Inc.’s activity takes place in Jackson Hole. The mailing address is above.

Lori-Ann Murphy, founder and instructor, runs this fly-fishing school. Here you will find everything pertinent to the sport and its adventures. Lori-Ann is an advisor for the Orvis Company and consulted for Meryl Streep and Kevin Bacon in the movie
The River Wild
. She has won awards and can often be found at sport shows and banquets, demonstrating and speaking about her passion—fly-fishing. The popular women’s fly-fishing school is held in Jackson Hole. There are various other fishing trips. If time permits, take a two-day course. And don’t you love the name Reel Women Inc.?

Important Driving Information

Leaving Jackson
, heading west, you will go through
Wilson
. The road west from Wilson into Idaho, the
Teton Pass
, is a brake burner for a short time, but it is beautiful. Listen for road updates, and pay careful attention.

Montana

The
largest of the Rocky Mountain states, Montana is truly beautiful and runs all the way from
Glacier National Park
in the north to the Montana side of
Yellowstone National Park
in the south
.

Driving Diva Factoid:
The very real town of
West Yellowstone
is in Montana, which is not to be confused with Yellowstone in Wyoming.

Three Forks (Population Approximately 1,500)

On your
way to or from Yellowstone or Glacier national parks, or if you just happen to be in the area, Three Forks is a must-stop. It may not be just around the corner, but you’ll wish it was. You will have a very delicious experience.

Wheat Montana Farms and Bakery

10778 Hwy. 287

800-535-2798

www.wheatmontana.com

Driving in Montana for long stretches, you will notice the huge grain farms, which serve to get you in the mood to stop at Wheat Montana. Here, you will find almost everything that has to do with wheat—flour, grains, cereals, legumes, and seeds. You’ll also find their cookbook, bread machine mixes, wheat chili mix, aprons, and more. In the bakery department, you can get possibly one of the best sandwiches you will ever consume. Now you will know what bread is supposed to taste like! Try their products even if you have to obtain them by mail.

For three generations the Folkvord family has been involved with grain production. Their operation now includes twelve thousand acres of the most productive soil in Montana. At five thousand feet above sea level, it is the highest elevation at which grain is grown in North America. Elevation, weather, and attention to quality versus quantity all enhance this fine product.

Depending on the time of year, as you drive you will see huge parcels of land crowned with waving grains—not unlike a graceful dance—that seem to stretch all the way to the horizon. You’ll see a line of combines harvesting grain. The sight is awesome. It looks choreographed, and in a way it is.

Driving Diva Factoid:
If you store grains in a plastic pail with an oxygen absorber in a temperature-stable environment, the grains should last six to eight years, and perhaps even longer. Flour or any other processed product should be used within a year (info from www.wheatmontana.com).

The interstate as you head north is long and straight and goes on and on and on. Because of the beauty that surrounds you, you may get a bit weary, but only briefly, as the land and sky are awesome, and you do not want to miss a single cloud or gentle breeze.

As you drive along I-15, you can’t help but wonder how often the inhabitants of these big ranches visit their neighbors. How often do they go shopping? How close is the grocery store? Neighbors are not close by for borrowing a quick cup a sugar. If you go to a barber, by the time you get home, it’s almost time for another trim!

Driving in Montana is an experience—one that you will want to have many times.

Great Falls (Population Approximately 55,000)

You can
take I-15 north to
Shelby
, then take Highway 2 to
Browning
, and then drive on into
Glacier
. Or right outside of Great Falls, you can take Highway 89 to Browning and then drive on into Glacier. Either way, the countryside is magnificent, and as you near Glacier, you begin to feel the aura of the fantastic national park you are about to enter. It is awesome and magical.

Glacier National Park

Entering Glacier
National Park, you embark on the experience of a lifetime. There is so much to see. The following are my discoveries and highlights, but do your own research to learn as much as you can before you visit this magnificent place.

I read a Glacier logo and it proved so accurate: “Experience a Dream, with Your Eyes Wide Open.”

Places to Stay in the Park

Glacier Park Lodge

1 Midvale Rd., East Glacier Park

406-226-5600

www.glacierparkinc.com

This establishment is large and impressive.

Many Glacier Hotel

774 Railroad St., Columbia Falls

406-732-4411

www.glacierparkinc.com‎

This establishment is also large and impressive.

Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and Cabins

406-732-5531

www.glacierparkinc.com

This establishment is rustic and wonderful.

Lake MacDonald Lodge

406-888-5431

www.glacierparkinc.com

This lodge is delightful.

Izaak Walton Inn

290 Izaak Walton Inn Rd., Essex

406-888-5700

www.izaakwaltoninn.com

This establishment is charming and attractive.

I have stayed and dined at Glacier Park Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel, and the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. What wonderful places! They are perfect and not pretentious. But that describes Glacier in general.

Lake MacDonald Lodge and all the places are very friendly. Prices vary, but they’re worth every penny. All the wonderful lodges have restaurants and a most special ambiance.

Bears:
Remember that you are on their turf. Respect the bears, and keep your distance. They may look and act docile, but that can change in a flash. You cannot run fast enough to escape their reach. Wildlife abounds: Enjoy, respect, photograph, remember, and then have the joy of reflecting.

Must-do’s

Red Bus Tours

406-892-2525

www.glacierparkinc.com

The Red Bus Tours use bright red motor coaches built originally in 1936 by the White Motor Company. Today, the legacy continues, and the coaches have been upgraded and refurbished by the Ford Motor Company. The drivers, known as “jammers,” originally got their nickname because they had to jam the gears as they traveled the roads. The Red Bus Tour is a big must-do, so make reservations. The fee is sensible.

The Sun Road

This is part of the Red Bus Tour, but you can also drive it yourself. Fifty-two-miles-long, it is a bit of a challenge and can be a white-knuckle experience in places. I definitely recommend leaving your car and letting the experienced “jammers” drive, answer questions, and show you the sights.

The Red Bus Tours make various stops along the way. These red buses have canvas roll-back tops that allow for unbelievable views as you feast your eyes on awesomeness. You will go along the
Garden Wall
, cross the
Continental Divide
at
Logan Pass
(elevation 6,646 feet), and descend to
St. Mary Lake
. This road is an absolute engineering feat.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Take a sweater. Although there are blankets in the bus, a sweater will also feel good as the temperature drops in the afternoon, and the canvas tops are closed. If you are driving, you should try to go in July or August, when the roads are at their best. Snow can come very early in Glacier.

FYI:
By 2030, there is a good possibility that all the glaciers in Glacier National Park will have melted!

Ma
ny Glacier Boat Tours

Seeing Glacier’s beauty from the water is another special experience. There is a fee, and spaces are limited. Make a reservation (406-257-2426).

Eateries near Glacier Park

Serrano’s Mexican Restaurant

29 Dawson Ave., East Glacier

406-226-9293

www.serranosmexican.com

This restaurant is nonsmoking, informal, and sensibly priced.

Babb Bar Cattle Baron Supper Club

Hwy. 89, Babb

406-732-4033

This is a real western restaurant serving what some claim is “the best beef in the West.” My beef dinner was very good. The large restaurant is on the second floor over the bar. The staff really gets a daily workout going up and down the steps and back and forth to the kitchen. You must be hungry when you dine, and don’t rush as it is deliciously special.

I didn’t see anything else in Babb (population approximately 500), so maybe the Babb Bar Cattle Baron Supper Club
is
Babb.

Whistle Stop

1024 U.S. Hwy. 49, East Glacier

406-226-9292

The sign adds “World Famous” to the name. Go hungry and be prepared for a unique breakfast experience! I recommend you split whatever you order. You’ll be lucky if you are hungry again by dinner time. It is not fancy and not to be missed.

Park Café & Grocery

U.S. Hwy. 89, St. Mary

406-732-4482

www.parkcafe.us

Located at the East Glacier entrance to Glacier National Park, this colorful, noisy, crowded, and popular café is known for its delicious pies. My favorite was a blueberry, blackberry, and raspberry mix called Razzleberry. The establishment serves about forty pies per day! Go and enjoy. You might have blue teeth for a while, but it’s oh so worth it! The café’s motto on a tie-dyed shirt read, “Pies for Strength.”

Two Sisters

U.S. Hwy. 89, Babb, four miles north of St. Mary

406-732-5535

This funky, fun place is delicious and offers reasonable prices. Try the burger with Creole sauce, followed by a piece of buttermilk chocolate cake.

Museums

Blackfeet Heritage Center & Art Gallery

333 Central Ave. W., Browning

406-338-5661

www.siyehdevelopment.com/heritage.html

Promoting the heritage of Native Americans, this gallery is well worth the stop. It is not large, but you will learn a lot.

Museum of the Plains Indians

U.S. Hwy. 2 and 89 West, Browning

406-338-2230

www.browningmontana.com/museum.html

The hours vary by season. You will find an interesting and varied display of arts by the Northern Plains Indians. The array of historic clothing, weapons, household items, and daily goods is informative. The exhibitions and sale items by outstanding contemporary Indian artisans
are impressive.

Driving Diva Tip:
There is so much to see and do in Glacier, it would be a good idea to plan your itinerary with professionals at the National Park Service or your hotel. Also, get suggestions from others who have been to Glacier.

FYI:
Working at one of the national parks is a wonderful experience. I hope to do so in a few years. There are all types of jobs for all ages. I think mine will be in the
Glacier Gift Shop
(www.glaciergiftshop.com). It has to be a rewarding, interesting way to spend the summer.

Leaving Glacier: Going West

The roads
out of Glacier are good. Highway 2 takes you into
Whitefish
(population approximately 5,032) and then into
Kalispell
, which is the largest town in the Flathead valley. Big Sky country, as this Montana area is termed, is rapidly gaining in popularity.

Kalispell (Population Approximately 17,149)

Main Street Kalispell

There are many old, original buildings, lots of shops, and lots of stoplights on
Main Street
. I discovered another
Wheat Montana Bakery
(www.wheatmontana.com) here!

Apple Barrel

3250 U.S. Hwy. 2 E.

406-755-7753

This place was very friendly and sold very fresh produce.

50,000 Silver Dollar Bar

Frontage Rd. W., Haugan

406-678-4242

Exit 16 off I-90, which is about ten miles east of the Idaho border and ninety miles east of Spokane, is the perfect place to stop. Here you will find the $50,000 Silver Dollar Bar, one of those “should I really stop here?” kinds of places. The answer is yes! It is a wonderful spot with all sorts of sensibly priced items. The food area and ladies room were clean. The employees were friendly. The food prices were reasonable and the food good. Also Montana’s largest gift shop, it sells lots of trinkets of all varieties and prices. I have also learned that this fun stop is a third-generation enterprise.

Driving Diva Tip:
This is not a quick in and out unless you make it so. Plan accordingly.

Grassrange (Population Approximately 144)

One trip
, leaving Glacier, I took I-15 at Shelby and then headed south to Great Falls, where I got on U.S. 87 South. After getting gas in
Lewiston
, I came upon Grassrange, where a country store loomed temptingly. What a delight this two-part establishment turned out to be! The store half is on one side, overseen by men. The restaurant half is on the other side, and it, of course, is run by women. When I arrived, the homemade sweet buns were just coming out of the oven. Wow! It was a wonderful stop. If you are ever in Grassrange, be sure to stop. You will be welcomed and just might learn a thing or two.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel

100 Grand Loop Rd., Yellowstone National Park

307-344-7311

Another good road trip is to travel from Glacier to the Montana-Wyoming border, where you will find the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel in Wyoming. This is such a delight! Each time I stay there, I discover more and more. The scenery is beautiful, and the elk casually grazing around the property form natural props. There are many types of accommodations, all most comfortable.

Suggestion:
Find the
hot pots
. You will see cars parked along the side of the road in Montana. There is a shed where you can change into your bathing suit and put on your wading sneakers or such—which hopefully you have not forgotten! You can then go carefully (the rocks are very slippery) into the very warm spring and waterfall pool. It is fabulous! What a day!

For more details on the Mammoth Hot Springs, see the Wyoming chapter.

Gardiner (Population 852)

The original
entrance to Yellowstone National Park—and the only entrance open year-round—is in Gardiner. The famous
Roosevelt Arch
, dedicated by Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, is prominent; it can be seen from two miles outside of town. Aside from walking and sightseeing, there are hiking, biking, and rafting in this beautiful area. From my very first visit, the unique charm and total realness got me.

Gardiner is less than a ten-minute drive from Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel in Wyoming. Remember to look for animals,
big
animals, which are often on the road.