Romancing the Roads (20 page)

Gardiner is one of those towns that, at first glance, you are not quite sure why you are there, but then within minutes you are glad you came. This tiny hippie town is rustic and low-key, but with hints of real savvy. Situated in
Paradise Valley
with the
Yellowstone River
running right through it, this little place is worth a visit.

Go to Gardiner in the late morning, and plan to have lunch at Helen’s.

Helen’s Corral Drive-in

711 Scott St. W.

406-848-7627

Get the full aura of the area, park your car in town, and walk to Helen’s Corral Drive-in, “Best Food in the West, est. 1960.” Get directions from any Gardiner native. Everyone knows Helen Gould. Helen’s was recommended to me by the gas station attendant, who recommended the “must-have”: Helen’s buffalo burger. As the menu states, “One size only, all burgers are one half pound! All burgers come loaded unless you tell us different! Baskets include a small salad and French fries, no substitutions.”

Walking to Helen’s, you will see most of Gardiner. When you are told that Helen’s is just down the block, do not be surprised if you don’t see it right away. Its outside decor is not elaborate. Arriving at Helen’s, I introduced myself to the man who was both cooking and hosting. As I was to discover, he was Helen’s son, Steve, who is the cook. Spencer, Helen’s grandson, is also involved in this family enterprise.

One buffalo burger was ordered, as was the recommended milk shake, which proved very thick and delicious. Helen appeared and sat down to talk. Hopefully you will have the same unforgettable pleasure. She is a Gardiner treasure.

The walk back to your car is vital, because you need a bit of exercise after a meal at Helen’s.

FYI:
There were other restaurants in Gardiner, although with each visit it is obvious that they come and go.

As of 2006, I heard that a unique ice cream counter and embroidery store had closed. I enjoyed my initial discovery so much that I had to include it. Stitch-Niche was started by the Hofmanns, with an ice cream counter on one side and clothing and custom embroidery on the other. Mr. Hoffman made all sorts of ice cream delights, including an egg cream, big ice cream cones, and twenty-five-cent tiny ice cream cones. What, you ask, is an egg cream? It’s an ice cream soda without ice cream. It is so New York City, and here I was enjoying one in Gardiner, Montana! Custom embroidery could be done overnight and at any time. Sadly, Mr. Hoffman passed away, and the last time I was in Gardiner, Joni Hoffman was managing both sides of the business, which I learned have now closed.

West Yellowstone (Population Approximately 1,177)

It is
easy to get the Yellowstones confused. West Yellowstone, Montana, just outside the west entrance of Yellowstone National Park, is a very western town with great restaurants and shops and nice people. It is nothing fancy, but it is an enjoyable must-see if you like to experience the real life of such places. I am not necessarily talking about relocating; just try it for a little time, and you might be surprised.

Stage Coach Inn

209 Madison Ave.

406-646-7381

www.yellowstoneinn.com

This centrally located inn is most attractive, casual, and definitely female friendly. It has all the standard things you might need, including a coin-operated laundry and poker games with licensed dealers. (What a combo!) The atmosphere is friendly western. “Fancy” is not an adjective that applies. The lobby is “award winning” with its wing-shaped stairs that fan out to the left and right. In the center is a large western-style painting with a story: As an unfaithful husband came down the stairs, the wife shot at him and missed; therefore, there is a hole in the painting. Oh, those western events.

Restaurants

Bullwinkle’s

115 N. Canyon

406-646-7974

The service was excellent and friendly, the food good, and the prices sensible. The entrée of buffalo steak was delicious. At one point, the wrong entrée was brought to someone at the table. There was an immediate apology, the wrong entrée was left on the table for all to try, and the correct meal was brought immediately. That is the way such a mistake should be handled!

Uncle Laurie’s Riverside Café

237 Firehole Ave.

406-646-7040

This café doubles as an espresso bar and serves breakfast, lunch, and homemade pies and desserts. And it delivers! I enjoyed a good breakfast at the counter, talking with the pretty chef and a policeman who was also having breakfast.

Shops

Yellowstone Silver Co.

110 Canyon St.

406-646-7512

This western jewelry shop is run by a very friendly mother and son duo, who gave me suggestions about places to see.

Theater

Playmill Theatre of West Yellowstone

29 Madison Ave.

406-646-7757

www.playmill.com

In 2011 they celebrated their forty-seventh season, and the schedule of shows is impressive.

Idaho

Heading
west from Montana on I-90 toward Spokane, you are in Idaho for a very short time, but you pass through wonderful towns like
Mullan
(population 840),
Wallace
(population 1,000), and beautiful
Coeur d’Alene
(population 24,000), a place high on my must-visit list. Idaho is a big and beautiful state. I feel outdoorsy just saying the name.

On my first visit to Idaho, I visited
Sun Valley
with my parents and brother. I was very young, but I remember liking everywhere we went. I also remember seeing sage brush for the first time.

Many years later, I visited a classmate in
Boise
. I drove over the
Teton Pass
, passed through
Victor
,
Driggs
, and
Idaho Falls
, and took I-15 to I-86, then I-84 into Boise. (Victor and Driggs have become popular places to live for the young-and-active crowd seeking to avoid the high cost of living in nearby
Jackson Hole
.) Victor is home to
Reel Women Inc.
, purveyors of fly-fishing adventures for women
(see the Wyoming chapter).

I was surprised to find that Boise was so big. The area is beautiful. I visited the impressive Boise State University and also discovered that Boise is home to one of my very favorite grocery stores:
Albertson’s
. My classmate, whom I was visiting, took me to the antique area and around Boise. She lived in
Eagle
, which is an absolutely beautiful, bucolic area. The roads are slightly confusing, at least to this visitor, so I suggest (once again) that you get explicit directions.

There is obviously a lot to see and do in Boise. Later I looked up Boise on the Internet. In so many categories, it rates “best of” or “best for” or in the top ten. I was impressed, but then, I have been impressed by all of Idaho. I can honestly and unquestionably say, Idaho is a must-revisit.

Utah

While
driving into Utah on I-80 from the east, you’ll notice the landscape changes dramatically from high plains to huge red rock formations. The traffic changes dramatically too, as you approach
Salt Lake City
. During my first few drives through Salt Lake, the roads always seemed to be under construction. Now, I am told, construction is finished, and the roads are good.

Beautiful as it may be, Utah has a few “our way” laws. The liquor laws were peculiar, and from all I have read and been told as of this writing, the “membership law” has been rescinded. This said, some rules still hold true, so be aware.

Interstate 80 and the Salt Flats

I-80
, a very straight, long road, goes across the state. Driving it at night, I felt alone, and often I actually was. Every so often, an eighteen-wheeler went jetting by, but that was about it. You must do this fascinating fifty-mile stretch once. Some people talk about the smells; others relate how barren it is. Regardless, you should visit this unique area.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Going west in the late afternoon, the sun is in your eyes—for too long. A full gas tank and cell phone are imperative.

The
Great Salt Lake
is six times saltier than the ocean. You will want to stop and feel the coarse salt—even take a bit of it with you. For as far as you can see, it will just be white, white salt. In some parts, you can walk onto this salty terrain but not without foot protection. It is a special experience.

Wendover (Population Approximately 1,000)

Civilization
returns in Wendover, Utah, which is a stone’s throw from
Wendover West
, Nevada, a neon-lit gambling town. Wendover, Utah, is Utah-subdued: no gambling and, of course, the Utah laws. These two towns are so close together, I have heard they share high schools (see Wendover West, Nevada).

Park City

A short
distance from
Provo
and Salt Lake City is Park City, which has become more universally known due to the
Sundance Film Festival
.

Sundance Institute

1825 Three Kings Dr.

435-658-3456

www.sundance.org

Getting to Sundance is an easy and beautiful drive, which I did in the summer. I am sure it has its winter charm and challenges, too, with snow conditions that often prevail.

Sundance Resort and Institute

8841 N. Alpine Loop Rd.

800-892-1600

www.sundanceresort.com

Family-oriented, safe, and beautiful, this is a community for art and nature. I consider it a wonderful place simply to escape to and even reconnect with yourself. The various accommodations are handsome. The log cabin look is rustic-posh, with bright, colorful Indian blankets popping out at you from natural-wood backgrounds. Of course, there are fireplaces. Be it the private rooms or the public areas, nothing is not well appointed and beautiful at Sundance.

Robert Redford purchased this land in 1969, and with determination he started Sundance, a community for those who appreciate nature. The arts are present, as are the sports. There is plenty of skiing, fly-fishing, hiking, snowboarding, and horseback riding.

When one checks in, the room key is attached to a small flashlight. This is a clue. The accommodations are snuggled into the woods. It can be a very dark walk from your car to the front door of your accommodations. The flashlight is a must! Thank you, Sundance organizers!

The shops are appealing, and the collection of merchandise is attractive and very tempting. The restaurants are excellent. Remember, you are in Utah and check for any Utah rules.

Restaurants:
The multi-award-winning
Tree Room
(435-649-9108) is attractive and romantic, with excellent food. The wonderful Native American art displayed on the walls, from what I understand, is from Mr. Redford’s private collection.

The thoroughly enjoyable
Foundry Grill
(866-932-2295) is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner six days a week. On Sundays, there is brunch and dinner. This is more casual dining.

The
Owl Bar
(801-223-4222) is a private club. Here, you will feel like you are in a different place and time, even before you start imbibing. Don’t be surprised if you see a familiar theater face. On the weekends local musicians perform, and the bar doesn’t close until midnight.

Downtown Park City

The charming
historic
Main Street
(
800-453-1369) retains its old mining-town ambiance. The majority of buildings were built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. This is a town full of shops, galleries, and restaurants—and in high season, people. Although it’s only seven blocks long, you should put on your walking boots or shoes and tour. Be sure to get a map and a listing of all that is going on. You do not want to miss out.

Zoom

660 Main St.

435-649-9108

www.zoomparkcity.com

Robert Redford opened this restaurant in 1995. All the Sundance-Redford restaurants are award winning.

Sundance Film Festival

The prestigious
Sundance Film Festival is held in Park City in January, when the quiet little town becomes Hollywood alive with hope from all connected with the event. There are seminars, screenings, and exhibits.

Constructive Observation:
Calling the resort, sometimes it takes a while for the phone to be answered.

Confession:
I visited Park City/Sundance Resort when I was just beginning to discover, visit, and review places across the United States. I was a novice from head to toe. I look forward to returning to the area and viewing it with a more mature eye.

Bryce, Zion, and Arches National Parks

The road
you take to get to these treasures is up to you—just be sure you do so. The national parks are managed and run extremely well. Each is a gem and should not be missed.

Bryce National Park

This colorful
collection of rock spikes is hard to describe and equally hard to fathom when you are face-to-face with these vast formations. The rock formations are called hoodoos, and the areas they are clustered in are called amphitheaters.

You will have to plan ahead and make reservations when going to Bryce. Visiting spur of the moment, I lucked out and was able to get a room at the
Lodge at Bryce Canyon.

Lodge at Bryce Canyon

PO Box 640041, Bryce

435-834-8700

www.brycecanyonforever.com

There is a restaurant, a gift shop, and a post office. There is a lot to do at Bryce, including hiking, fishing, horseback riding, and all those adventurous activities. Perfect!

Zion National Park

What a
wonder! There is much to do here, and planning is key to your venture. The mile-long
Zion Mount Carmel Tunnel
has specific requirements for entrance. Be sure to check, particularly if you have a large vehicle.

Zion means “place of refuge.” The huge rock formations towering over you are awesome. Like each national park, Zion is in a category by itself. I could only describe it as I saw it.

Although there are many places to stay outside of the park, the Zion Lodge is the only one of its kind in the park.

Zion Lodge

PO Box 925, Springdale

435-772-7700

www.zionlodge.com

You can see the park by taking one of the
shuttle buses
(www.zionpark.com/shuttle_bus_service.htm), but of course driving the area is a special experience. There are highways and byways to drive, as well, of course, as all the endeavors for the athlete, including climbing, backpacking, horseback riding, water sports, and more. You will see people climbing the rocks, and their feats are impressive.

Arches National Park

Located five
miles north of
Moab
on Highway 191,
Arches
is another spectacular national park to visit. It is open all year, except on December 25. It is large and contains all the literature and documentaries you need to get an in-depth appreciation of Arches. There is no food sold in the park, and there is no lodging (you stay in Moab). Throughout the park, restrooms and water are available.

The way to see this park is via car. The roads are excellent. Allow an hour plus, plus, plus, because you will want to get out and very slowly ingest the beautiful sandstone arches. There are over two thousand. The park encompasses more than seventy-six thousand acres. Some of the arches are massive; some look fragile—as if you might be able to push them over. Not hardly! You are looking at over a million years’ worth of carving. I had no intention to stay as long as I did, but getting out of the car to sit and look out over the vast, barren terrain to let the music of the wind blow around me, I was taken into a private place that I was slow to leave.

Driving Diva Input:
Put your two index fingers together, tips just touching. Arch your fingers and hold them under a light. This is an inkling of what the arches look like.

Early homesteaders tried to live in this barren, albeit beautiful, setting. Indeed, it was a challenge as you will learn when you stop at
Wolfe Ranch
and learn the details. There is truly something for everyone of all ages at Arches.

Moab

Moab is
a necessity if you are going to be in the area. Investigate its potentials carefully; a lot is available. I was surprised to find this vibrant little oasis that welcomes almost 1 million tourists a year. Its lushness stems from its being situated on the banks of the
Colorado River
. Moab is the perfect focal point for your excursions in the nearby national parks and surrounding areas.