Romancing the Roads (28 page)

Finding my way around the property was a challenge as the signage is extremely poor. I got lost going up and down hilly pathways until I hitched a ride on a golf cart.

The shops at Bacara are quite fancy but offered nothing to drool over. A father and daughter I met in one of the shops agreed with me. He was ready to treat and spoil his daughter.

There are two main restaurants at Bacara:
Miro
(805-571-4204) and the
Bistro
(805-571-4217). Miro was closed, so my only choice was the Bistro, which definitely was not a winner. The service was poor, hot soup arrived cold, and my serving of gnocchi was microscopic. The portions were lost on the plate, and when I discussed the matter with the waitress, she brought two more thimble-sized gnocchi. The father and daughter I spoke with in the shop stopped by the table and reported a similarly unimpressive dining experience.

The next night I was to dine with the public relations manager, again at the Bistro, but she was a no-show. However, the chef, David Garwacki, made up for it in the nicest way by joining me at my table and recommending a fantastic meal. Thank you, Chef Garwacki.

There is no question that Bacara is an outstanding property, but the management has some work to do. The pool, which looks huge in the brochures, is not so huge, and the beach is not the cleanest. The seaweed and tar are natural but could, and should, be skimmed. My spa experience there was
almost
alright. The facilities were what you would expect, but the personnel at the check-in desk (at least when I stood there) could use a little more training. My appointment was changed, as was the treatment I was supposed to have. Maybe they were just having a bad day.

I didn’t leave Bacara looking like anyone in the resort’s ads, but at least I could say that I’d been there. Maybe things will be a little more together next time, if there is a next time.

News as of 2011:
No details but Bacara is now under new ownership.

Downtown Santa Barbara

Downtown
Santa Barbara is filled with boutiques, restaurants, and a brokerage house or three—or four. The people are attractive and wealthy. Following a devastating earthquake in 1925, the city was largely rebuilt in a Spanish-Moorish style, which contributes to its charm. Chic shops and alfresco dining seem to dominate. The beach and marina are a short walk downhill.

Above downtown is the so-called Riviera.

El Encanto Hotel and Garden Villas

2020 Alameda Padro Serra

805-568-1357

www.elencantohotel.com

A charming, enchanting, lush hideaway on a hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean in the distance, El Encanto has eighty-four beautifully appointed cottages and villas snuggled into its gardens. It would be easy to do what film star Hedy Lamarr did: move in permanently.

A few years ago I was lucky enough to stay in one of the cottages. The living room had a fireplace and other comfortable furnishings, and my bedroom was cozy. It was oh so nice!

Recently the property was purchased by the elite Orient Express Group, which closed the hotel for restoration and enhancements. It plans to open again. I can imagine it will only be perfect.

Montecito Inn

1295 Coast Village Rd.

805-969-7854

www.montecitoinn.com

Just south of Santa Barbara, this inn is another treasure. Financed by a group of investors headed by screen legend Charlie Chaplin, the Montecito Inn opened in 1928 at a cost of $300,000. It was called “the cream of the coast,” and the first guests included the movie world’s elite, including Carole Lombard, Wallace Beery, Norma Shearer, Janet Gaynor, Marion Davies, and others. Bertrand Harmer was the original architect of this three-story Mediterranean-style building, which had an earthquake-resistant roof.

As times progressed, a driveway into the enclosed parking facility was built, and later a pool, spa, and sauna were added to the rear of the building. A wishing well (lost during construction) was the inspiration for R
ichard Rodgers’s song “There’s a Small Hotel.”

I’ve never stayed at the Montecito Inn, but I’ve seen the rooms and facilities. Everything is quaint and elegant without overdoing it.

The
Montecito Cafe
(805-969-3392) is on the main floor, snuggled into a corner of the hotel and facing the street. If the hotel is a treasure then the café is a gem; my lunch there was delicious. Lemon grilled chicken is one of the most popular items. Proprietors Mark and Margaret Huston obviously know what they are doing. The service was excellent, the food delicious, and the ambiance just right. Tables were close together but not offensively so. Better yet, prices were sensible.

Ojai

South of
Santa Barbara and east into the mountains is the town of Ojai (pronounced “oh-hi”).

Ojai Valley Inn and Spa

905 Country Club Rd.

805-646-1111

www.ojairesort.com

I had heard about Ojai but never visited this place, which people had described as special. Learning of my book project, the public relations department informed me that the Ojai property was under major renovation and that both accommodations and services would be limited. No problem—I had heard so much about Ojai and wanted to include it in the book. The staff went out of their way to make everything just right and to squeeze as much as possible into my brief visit. They succeeded.

This is Southern California at its finest. In 1922, Edward Libbey (as in the well-known glass company) purchased 220 acres of this beautiful valley to share with his friends. He commissioned California architect Wallace Neff to design a country club with a golf course . . . and, as they say, the rest is history.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Ojai means “the nest” or “moon,” and for years it was home to the Chumash Indians. They believed, as some people still do, that the east-west-lying valley had mystical powers. Film director Frank Capra chose the Ojai valley to film the movie
Lost Horizon
with Ronald Coleman.

Everything from the time I arrived on property was programmed—and nicely so. I was grateful since there was a lot to get in during my brief visit. Upon arriving, I was instructed to check in, leave my bag, change, swim, steam, soak, and eat.

I wanted to sample Spa Ojai’s treatments, and the staff scheduled what they thought would be best. I was to have a “Kuyam” (pronounced “koo-yahm”) at 1 p.m. and a “Zen Shiatsu” massage at 3 p.m. It sounded wonderful. (Would my sons recognize me if they saw me at 4:30?)

Oh my! The Kuyam is Spa Ojai’s signature mud treatment. You leave your robe outside, go into a room, take a seat, and apply Moor mud to your body. I’m sure a spa professional would explain Kuyam differently, but I’m going to relate how I experienced it.

There were six to eight ladies—all strangers to each other—in their birthday suits. (In California you never know what to expect, so I was glad we were all women.) We were seated in a warm, aromatic room, each with our bowl of mud. Some of the ladies smiled, some frowned, and some just wore quizzical expressions on their faces. I can tell you that being nude in a group like this was not everyone’s cup of mud. I applied the Moor mud as instructed to as much of my body as possible. It did not feel particularly glamorous, but I was hopeful. The mud seemed to be doing something to my skin as it firmed up—that is, as the mud firmed up. Soon we were guided in meditation, which was pleasant and definitely different. Then the room began to fill with herb-scented steam released from vents for “inhalation therapy.”

A Swiss shower to wash off the Moor mud followed this part of the treatment. Let me tell you, this mud does not willingly come off the body, especially when it gets into the body’s crevices. (Mine are more like ravines.) This is followed by a second shower for final cleansing; then, you are lotioned, wrapped in a warm linen sheet, and taken to the outdoor loggia to reflect. The price is what you would expect, and yes, I would do it again, just in case it takes two sessions to improve the body, mind, and those crevices.

The scheduled Zen Shiatsu message was most pleasant. This treatment is meant to stimulate and restore balance to the body by releasing blockages along the energy pathways. It involved moderate-to-strong touch using
shi
(finger) and
atsu
(pressure). A nonoil treatment, Shiatsu promotes overall well-being by restoring vitality to your body as well as relieving stress, muscular discomfort, and fatigue.

The thirty-one-thousand-square-foot Spa Ojai includes every type of spa amenity you can imagine. This professionally run spa is for women and men who aim to improve themselves via several types of treatments and through cardiovascular fitness, as well as yoga and meditation. Reservations are a must, since this award-winning spa is also open to outside guests.

The Ojai Valley Inn and Spa is a 308-room resort on 220 acres. Walking the grounds is magical. Do you know another place that “encourages guests to gather fresh herbs in the garden for a wreath-making class”? The standard sports are all offered, but I chose to go horseback riding, which proved relaxing and scenic. I had ridden quite a bit in younger days, so this was pretty easy.

The signature restaurant is
Maravilla
, serving exceptional California cuisine with a view of the Topatopa Mountains. The
Oak Grill
serves classic American cuisine, and you can eat inside or on the terrace, where the magnificent oaks keep you company.
Café Verde
is in the spa.
Jimmy’s Pub
has an upscale bar menu and is a popular sports bar on property.

I was particularly impressed by how the Ojai Valley Inn and Spa treated its employees. As I mentioned, the property was undergoing major renovation when I was there. Usually when this occurs, staff members are laid off temporarily—but not at Ojai. In order to keep unneeded staff members employed during the renovation, the resort offered training in construction skills such as hanging sheet rock, painting, and plastering so that these staff members could participate in the work and keep that paycheck coming in. I found this exceptionally thoughtful of the owners, the Crown family, and the workers I spoke with took great pride in what they were doing and told me how much they enjoyed being part of the renovations. Applause! Applause!

Driving Diva Update:
The Ojai Valley Inn and Spa received AAA’s Five Diamond Award in 2007.

Addendum:
The owners of Ojai Valley Inn and Spa built Casa Elar, a beautiful Tuscan-style villa. Its provenance alone reveals that Casa Elar is exceptional. There are two suites downstairs and a master suite upstairs, as well as a private massage room, elevator, great room, entertainment room, and so much more. The gourmet kitchen and extra rooms, private pool and spa, and shaded terrace with stone pizza oven and gas BBQ all overlook the valley. You can rent this spectacular oasis, and there is no doubt you will have a fantastic experience.

Suzanne’s Cuisine

502 W. Ojai Ave.

805-640-1961

www.suzannescuisine.com

We enjoyed dinner at Suzanne’s Cuisine, which is located a short drive off property. Opening this special “cuisine” in 1992, Suzanne had become a gourmet fixture and Ojai star by 2000. Her menu is exceptional; only the finest items and freshest herbs are used to create her specialties. The interior of this restaurant is calming and understated. Suzanne was previously an interior decorator, and her decorating talents have not been lost here. One could say that this restaurant gem is a family affair. Daughter Sandra, who has an MBA in finance and marketing, now runs the business side as well as lunchtime. Mother tends to other things until the evening, when she is back at the helm.

Three of us dined together. Among the superb courses we shared were crab and corn cakes with white sauce, shrimp and mango salad, fried crab cake balls with hoisin sauce, halibut, lamb chops, shrimp with ginger sauce, coffee ice cream with Kahlua and chocolate syrup, and coconut ice cream. Everything about Suzanne’s is gem quality, and you will agree. Enjoy.

At first glance, the town of Ojai itself doesn’t seem that impressive, but during the very short drive to Suzanne’s, I was surprised by all that I saw. Then the next day I saw more. It was Sunday, and the
farme
rs’ market
(www.ojaicertifiedfarmersmarket.com) was bustling, as were several attractive, upscale shops. While most places weren’t for the bargain hunter, I did find a consignment shop. It is fun to look.

I look forward to revisiting this fabulous place—Ojai.

On the Road Again

Seventeen
miles northwest of Los Angeles, but somehow still “in” LA, is the magnificent Getty Center.

Getty Center

1200 Getty Center Dr.

301-440-7330

www.getty.edu

Admission is free, although, before 5 p.m., parking will set you back $15 per car (in 2011). Situated high atop a mountain overlooking the San Diego Freeway, the Getty Center is a wonderful place to visit, even if you’re not an art aficionado.

You park your car and take a tram up to the center’s Arrival Plaza, some 881 feet above sea level. I would suggest getting the “Map and Guide” folder and the “Architecture & Gardens” folder, both of which are extremely helpful and easy to read.

Driving Diva Factoid:
The Getty Center uses 164,648 square feet of exterior glass, and the travertine used on the buildings—one hundred shiploads’ worth—is from the same quarry as that used to build the Colosseum and the colonnade of St. Peter’s Basilica.

There are three different eateries at the Getty: fine dining on the plaza level at the
Restaurant
(310-440-6810; reservations recommended), cafeteria-style dining on the lower level in the
Cafe at the Getty Center
, and coffee, lunch, and snacks at the
Garden Terrace Cafe
, also on the lower level but with outdoor seating only.

Sa
nta Monica

Ten miles
from the Getty Center is Santa Monica, where hardly an inch of prime oceanfront property has gone undeveloped. Famous for its fabulous beach, pier with arcade, famous 1922 merry-go-round, and chic celebrity inhabitants, it had a surprising number of squatting people on and around the beach: bodybuilders (male and female), jugglers, guitar players, and what I call meditators and contemplators (people staring into space or chanting). It was more bizarre than dangerous, but as a woman, I wouldn’t strike up an impromptu conversation with any of these characters. (A friend of mine’s daughter once ran away to Santa Monica, causing my friend to fly post haste to get the daughter back and on her medication. From what I saw, it is not a place you would want your child to escape to with or without her meds!)