Romancing the Roads (26 page)

Spruce

3640 Sacramento St.

415-931-5100

www.sprucesf.com

It is called a neighborhood restaurant with an upscale, sophisticated ambiance and menu. I look forward to a visit.

Hotel Majestic

1500 Sutter St.

415-441-1100

www.thehotelmajestic.com

Located in Pacific Heights. this charming and attractive hotel is a true gem. Originally a private residence built in 1902 by Milton Schmidt, a railroad magnate and member of the California State Legislature, it became the Hotel Majestic when Schmidt sold it in 1904. Untouched by the earthquake of 1906, it remains San Francisco’s longest continuously operated hotel. To add to its charm, the Majestic is a bit away from downtown, which makes parking easy and convenient in the hotel’s covered garage on the next block. Ghosts are said to inhabit the hotel, and in one room, the bathtub mysteriously fills with water all on its own—or so I have been told.

The outside of the hotel was painted in an attractive, subtle mix of colors.

The well-known
Café Majestic
(415-441-1280) is a favorite, and the
Butterfly Lounge
is a popular place to rendezvous. Regardless, visit and, if possible, stay at this special place.

The Prescott and the Majestic are two of many small hotels in San Francisco, but you if want the “grand hotel” experience, even if you can only afford to have dinner, I can personally recommend the Ritz, the Mark Hopkins, and the Stanford Court.

The Ritz

600 Stockton St.

415-296-7465

www.ritzcarlton.com

The Ritz is, well, ritzy, and if a dinner in the Dining Room is not in the budget, a small munch at the Terra
ce will do just fine.

Mark Hopkins

One Nob Hill

877-270-1390

www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com

This fine hotel’s Top of the Mark restaurant features a bar with a spectacular, panoramic view of the city. The cost of this view is approximately $10 for a glass of Chablis.

Stanford Court

905 California St.

415-989-3500

www.marriott.com

This hotel is comfortable and attractive, though in recent years, it seems to have become a bit more hectic and commercial since I stayed there on my first book tour.

Heading South

Several highways
head south out of San Francisco, the most expedient (for getting to Los Angeles) being I-5. More attractive alternatives are U.S. Route 101, which weaves in and out of farmlands, or the famed Pacific Coast Highway, Highway 1. When I first asked someone about Highway 1 way back when, I was told you really have to be careful because the road was so windy that you’d see your own exhaust pipe much of the way. From the first very sharp curve onward, though, Highway 1 is not as bad as described. It is well maintained, though you do have to keep a lookout for speeders and passers, and driving at night is not recommended. Head-on collisions are all too common on the highway, which was designed for slower automobiles. It took eighteen years of construction before it was completed in 1937.

The weather can change drastically along Highway 1, so pack for cold as well as warm conditions. The early-morning fog rolls in and is quite beautiful, albeit damp and chilly and a hindrance to visibility. By noon or so, the fog has rolled on, and the day warms.

You can exist in many different ways in Big Sur, and if you choose to do nothing except look, you will still come away with enhanced experiences that you will remember well and with pleasure.

There’s a lot of development along the Santa Lucia Mountains side of the highway and somewhat less on the ocean side, where the Pacific throbs and bangs and rolls against the shoreline.

Swanton Berry Farm

Two miles north of Davenport on Hwy. 1

831-469-8804

www.swantonberryfarm.com

About seventy miles south of San Francisco along Highway 1 is Swanton Berry Farm, home to some of the best strawberries I’ve ever tasted. The farm opened in 1983 with two acres and today has eighty acres of not only strawberries but also blackberries, artichokes, broccoli, cauliflower, and other vegetables—all grown organically. There are two farms: the Farm Stand and Swanton’s Coastways, where you can pick strawberries, blackberries, kiwis, and ollalieberries. Don’t believe that anything you purchase (except for perhaps vegetables) will last till you get home; my strawberries were gone by the time I reached Carmel.

Carmel

Charming, tony
, and attractive, Carmel is the type of place where you do not want to see cutoffs, tank tops, or flip-flops. Homes are known by name and have no numbered addresses, which enhances the town’s residential character. Still, streets and shops (as well as the beach at the edge of town) tend to be filled with tourists visiting for weekends and holidays.

I found lots of shops, restaurants, and antique stores amid the many New York brokerage offices.

Villeroy & Boch

Ocean Ave. between Dolores and Lincoln, South Side

831-624-8210

At Ville
roy & Boch, I did purchase an unusual metal candleholder that was on sale.

As befits a town whose mayor at one time was actor Clint Eastwood, Carmel boasts several fine resorts and inns.

Quail Lodge

8000 Valley Greens Dr.

831-620-8866

www.quaillodge.com

I visited this most accommodating property a few years ago. My accommodations consisted of two rooms: a large sitting area with a fireplace and an equally large bedroom, both well appointed in earth tones. Everything about the bathroom was perfect, from the beautiful bathrobes, to the heated floor and towel bars, to the huge tub.

I took full advantage of the amenities, soaking in the large tub, then wrapping myself in a bathrobe and plopping down on the sofa to read about the Quail Lodge’s golf course (831-620-8808), home to the California Women’s State Amateur Championship each December. Forward to now: The lodge per se is closed, and it is now more a semiprivate golf club.

There are two places to eat at the Quail Golf Club:
Edgar’s
(831-620-8910) in the golf club house, which is open to the public, and there is also and the
Covey Restaurant
. Quail’s future is to be decided. I only hope this attractive property enjoys a timely renaissance.

Bernardus Lodge

415 W. Carmel Valley Rd.

831-658-3400

www.bernardus.com

The Bernardus is near perfection. From the moment I arrived, I knew I was in for an extraordinary experience. As soon as I pulled up in front of the lodge, I was greeted warmly, and my bags were whisked away with the promise that they’d be taken to my room. Nestled into a terraced hill directly in front of where you park, the Bernardus makes you feel as if you are visiting a very spacious, perfectly appointed, private home.

Two concierges, each with his own computer and seated behind a large table, attended to my check in. After an exchange of greetings, a waiting attendant stood to show me to my room. A welcoming glass of wine (from the lodge’s own vineyards, no less!) was offered, along with an invitation to tour the property. I followed the attendant through the main building and out into the garden, where sounds from running fountains filled the air. The pool and spa area were to the left, and in the area to the right, one could enjoy casual outdoor dining warmed by a large fireplace.

My room was understated, rustic but elegant, with special attention to many details. Welcoming complimentary estate wines, soft drinks, pastries, and cheese awaited on a table; elsewhere, there were fresh flowers and a bowl of fruit. Also, there was a large TV, CD player, coffeemaker, and tea server. Imported linens and down comforters graced the bed. In the bathroom, I found coral-colored toilet paper and Kleenex, a loofah sponge, bath salts, a scale, and a huge tub. The overstuffed chairs and sofa and the armoires were perfectly proportioned. From a balcony, I could overlook the manicured gardens. Heaven!

Bernardus Pon, creator of the acclaimed
Bernardus Winery and Vineyard
(800-223-2533), established Bernardus Lodge in 1999, with the goal of combining exemplary hospitality with exceptional epicurean experiences. Mission accomplished! The wines are delicious and form a great marriage with a meal. I wondered if the Bernardus’s signature restaurant,
Marinus
(831-658-3595), could possibly live up to its fantastic reputation and many awards. The answer was yes.

The dining room is not large, but large enough. Since I do adore a perfectly set table, I appreciated the crisp, white linens, polished silverware, and sparkling goblets. And the food . . . where do I begin? I started with the superb portobello soup, then tried the foie gras over lobster in a pastry shell. My main course was lobster with mango and prosciutto; dessert was a simple homemade ice cream. All the vegetables and fruits used are grown on property. Cal Stamenov is the executive chef and culinary director of Marinus, and my meal proved that his culinary talents are indisputable. I didn’t merely walk back to my room. I floated.

The turndown service is as you would expect and then some: How about a half bottle of wine and some treats from the chef for a night cap? Though tempted, I did not succumb. The imported linens, feather bed, and down comforter were quite enough to send me into dreamland.

The Spa at Bernardus Lodge
(831-658-3560) is small but pleasant. Candlelight in the hallways contributes to the atmosphere, as does the fact that you have to be eighteen to use the spa. The facilities are what you would expect, with a large waiting room (called a warming room) with fruits, teas, and refreshing cucumber water. I had a “Wellbeing Massage”—nothing out of the ordinary but still very pleasant.

The pool area just outside the spa is a perfect place to relax, whether you’ve had a treatment or not. I tried to continue my feeling of well-being as I stretched out on a comfortable chaise and let the Carmel sun warm my oil-filled pores and massaged body. The sound of running fountains was nice background music that added to the ambiance.

Alas, before I knew it, my stay was over, and my bags were being taken to my waiting car. Everyone I passed on the way out bade me farewell. The attendant who had put my bags in the car had also placed a bottle of water in the front seat—a thoughtful parting gift from a most special place.

Big Sur

Beginning south
of Carmel is legendary Big Sur, the rugged shoreline where author and resident Henry Miller claimed that he first “learned to say amen” (whether as a spiritual incantation or an exclamation of relief at having survived the drive is not known).

Big Sur is a ninety-mile stretch of awesome coastline. There are pull-outs where you can stop, view, rest, take a deep breath, and so forth. There is no charge to use them, so do so whenever needed. At designated places, you can climb down to the beach. I hear the walk is worth it, but having looked at some of the paths, I guarantee it is not for bad knees or hips under any circumstances. Remember, if you go down, you have to come back up!

Again:
Do not fear this highway, just respect it, maintain a sensible speed, and enjoy.

Driving Diva Factoid:
It was not until the 1950s that electricity arrived in Big Sur, and it still does not exist in some of the more challenging rural areas.

Nepenthe Restaurant

48510 Hwy. 1

831-667-2345

www.nepenthebigsur.com

I have heard that the name
Nepenthe
means either “isle of no care” or “no sorrow.”
Webster’s
defines it as a potion used in ancient times to induce forgetfulness of pain or sorrow or anything capable of causing oblivion of grief or suffering. This legendary restaurant was started over fifty years ago by Lolly and Bill Fassett, who from the start aspired to give their guests excellent service in a special and relaxed atmosphere. It’s special, indeed, because you are hanging over a cliff above the pounding Pacific Ocean! The view is wonderful, except when the fog rolls in, and when I was there, there was more fog than view, but I waited a while and saw more view. Regardless of the fickle weather, I recommend Nepenthe and compliment its third-generation owners, who maintain their grandparents’ original vision for the place. Be prepared to wait for a good seat around sunset though. And, as at many other such special places, you pay for the view.

I was told to watch for the elephant seals frolicking in the ocean around Big Sur, and sure enough, there they were. They’re big animals, but surprisingly nimble. As they frolicked, they looked quite adoringly toward one another, rubbing their snouts and heads together.

Hearst Castle

750 Hearst Castle Rd., San Simeon

800-444-4445

www.hearstcastle.com

The unbelievable former private residence of publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst is farther down on Highway 1 at San Simeon. The name Hearst Castle is no misnomer and may in fact understate the scale of the property, which, in addition to the main house (La Casa Grande), also includes an eighteen-room guesthouse. This beautiful and grand castle was the “hideaway” Hearst used for his supposedly clandestine romance with actress Marion Davies, perhaps the worst-kept secret in America in the 1920s and 1930s.

The guided tours are very well done and well worth the price of admission ($25 for adults and $12 for children in 2011). You take a designated bus up the hill past what looks like an African savannah: Hearst had his own zoo at San Simeon, and many descendants of the original zebras, elk, goats, llamas, and deer survive on the 250,000 acres that the Hearst family eventually donated to the state of California.

Hearst Castle was designed by architect Julia Morgan, a petite but formidable and highly talented female and one of the first women to graduate with a degree in civil engineering from the University of California, Berkeley. Construction began in 1919 and lasted until 1947.

San Simeon Pines

7200 Moonstone Beach Dr., Cambria

805-927-4648

www.sspines.com