Romancing the Roads (24 page)

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Authors: Gerry Hempel Davis

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I could have spent a day or more (preferably the later) in this charming oasis. The island is approximately five miles wide and ten miles long, which computes to approximately 17,778 acres or twenty-eight square miles. Walking shoes are a must. The main drag, so to speak, is
Winslow Way
. When you arrive on the island, go to the chamber of commerce for a map and personal information.

Chamber of Commerce

395 Winslow Way E.

206-842-3700

www.bainbridgechamber.com

As for my finds and discoveries on Bainbridge Island, the list would be long. The following are those on the very top of my list.

Within a few minutes on Bainbridge Island, I felt a pulling sensation in my torso. Remember, I had not known about this island twenty-four hours prior to my arrival, much less set foot on it. What did I find?

Bargain Boutique

572 Winslow Way E.

206-842-5567

This fantastic boutique of bargains is filled with both consignment and donated items. The store is clean and the personnel friendly. Merchandize was excellent and sensibly priced. When I left, there were a few empty spots on the shelves. Yes! Proceeds go to the children’s hospital, which I read has similar stores in other parts of Washington.

Closet Transfer

562 Bjune Dr. SE

206-842-1515

Enjoy this consignment shop discovery!

Heart

181 Winslow Way E.

206-842-0688

Heart’s motto is “Clothes & Accessories for the Way We Live.” Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Doozie

554 Winslow Way E.

206-842-3439

This store of “Fantastic Affordable Finds” might have just what you’ve been seeking for your nest.

Berry Patch & Contents

278 Winslow Way E.

206-842-3593

With all sorts of “Essentials for Your Home,” Berry Patch indeed offers a large variety.

Pastiche

119 Winslow Way E.

206-842-6019

Pastiche has antiques and fine collectables.

Ester’s Fabrics

181 Winslow Way E., Ste. D

206-842-2261

www.esthersfabrics.com

The oldest fabric shop in the state of Washington, Ester’s provides a collection of fabrics of all—and I do mean
all—varieties. You’ll discover bolts of fabric finds, imported ribbons, vintage fabrics, and more. All the choices will test your decision-making skills. Ester’s has a big oil-cloth selection and items for any craft project. I just wish the shop wasn’t quite so far away. Take your pictures and measurements—for sure.

Streamline Diner

397 Winslow Way E.

206-842-8595

What a discovery! Lunch included an exceptional homemade squash soup. There are no faults in the fare at this diner, and the pastries are too good. The service was efficient and friendly and the prices reasonable. Streamline Diner, I am looking forward to my next delicious visit.

Blackbird Bakery

210 Winslow Way E.

206-780-1322

Just follow your nose and pick up a treat—for energy’s sake—as you shop the shops on Winslow Way.

On Bainbridge, you find shops of all varieties and price points. They are primarily on Winslow Way or just around the corner on a side street.

Wear your walking shoes. Have fun finding all sorts of delights on this fantastic island.

I adored Bainbridge Island and look forward to returning.

By the time I got back on the ferry to the mainland, I confess I was tempted to lay down on one of the long ferry benches. Instead, I enjoyed a coke and just sat, slightly numb, and watched the view as the impressive skyline of Seattle came closer.

Seattle is on my ever-expanding revisit list.

I-5 South is not difficult to find when you are leaving Seattle.

Tidbit:
I passed seventeen hundred bicyclers! (At least, that’s how many I was told there were.) I later found out they were from the
Seattle Bicycle Club
and were on their way to Portland! Bicycling is great, and I do enjoy riding short distances, but to get to Portland, I am glad I am driving a car.

Kalama (Population Less Than 2,000)

To get
to Kalama, take Exit 30 off of I-5.

I had never heard of Kalama had not planned to stop there—but am delighted I did as I now know about this charming town. The land area is 2.3 square miles, and the average cost of a house in 2003 was about $119,000.

Kalama is about three hours south of Seattle and about thirty-five miles from Portland, Oregon. As the Kalama sign said, “Antique Capital District,” the car, of course, turned off the highway. (Advertising pays!).

Quaint shops line the few immediately visible blocks of Kalama. Here is a list of delightful places I discovered and are hopefully still there.

Heritage Square: Antiques & Dealers

176 N. First St.

360-673-3980

There are lots of miscellaneous antiques, as well as a soda fountain of sorts, where the attendant, Lisa, fixed a great latte.

Columbia Antiques & Collectibles Mall

364 N. First St.

360-673-5400

You’ll find fifty dealers with a mixture of collectibles.

Antique Deli & Pastry Shoppe

413 N. First St.

360-673-3310

www.kalamaonline.com/antique-mall-deli

You will find the homemade breads, pies, and other selections hard to resist. It’s not pricey, delicious, and very friendly.

I recommend making Kalama a stop on your road trip. Plan to spend quite a few minutes.

Oregon

I-5
is a good road. Getting to downtown Portland was a little tricky, but in the process, I saw the scope of this large and diverse city. In one direction, the skyline had beautiful mountains; in another, there was significant view of the river. I discovered a waterfront teaming with life and a variety of shops. For a while Portland was known as America’s best-kept secret, and not too long ago,
Money
magazine ranked it the second-best big city to live in. No question it is an outdoor city, with the
Mount Hood
glacier always looming. There is a restriction on building heights so that Mount Hood’s dominance cannot be usurped.

Portland (Population Approximately 529,000)

When learning
about Portland, I read that it is a city designed for walking. This is apparent in that the blocks are smaller than in a lot of other cities.
Public Art: Walking Tour
is a very handy book
.

Portland covers 134.3 square miles. It is on Pacific time, so if you are from the East, you can gain two or three hours in your life. Temperature-wise, summer highs are near 80 degrees, and at night, the highs are near 60 degrees. The winters are not freezing—cold yes, freezing no. Portland is busy but also rather relaxed. There is a lot going on, so do your homework and choose your destinations. It is easy to walk by something you should know about.

Heathman Hotel

1001 SW Broadway at Salmon

503-241-4100

www.heathmanhotel.com

This award-winning hotel is located downtown in the
Cultural District
. An old-world hotel with charm and character, the Heathman is
right in the center of things, so you might have to juggle a little traffic.

The doorman was competent and friendly. The lobby has two separate desks for check-in, which was efficient. Though not fancy, the property is first-rate, with an art deco style. The hotel’s colors are dark browns, interspersed with bright purple and orange accents and scattered animal-print fabrics.

My room was attractive and comfortable. The TV pulled out of a cabinet and was conveniently placed for one bed, though not really for the second. The bedroom window faced a brick wall of the building next door. Instead of blocking off the window, the management had painted the wall itself with an attractive mural, making the view semiattractive in its own way. I can think of many places that should do this—so simple, yet such a big improvement.

The hotel’s hallways seemed narrow, which is fine and typical of old properties. Long decorative mirrors in the hallways are especially handy for those last-minute fixes.

I liked the bottle of water on the bed at turndown. There is also a large lending library, and guests have access to a four-hundred-title movie library.

Jazz is an integral part of evenings at the Heathman. It is pleasant to sit in the
Tea Court
and wind down from your day’s activities. Also the
L’Heure de Plasir
(happy hour) is ever popular. There are specials both for imbibing and dining. The
Heathman Restaurant
is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Be certain to try the salmon hash at breakfast. The blueberry muffins were light and excellent. When I was there, Philippe Boulot headed the culinary team, and his credentials are long and impressive.

It won’t be hard to enjoy the Heathman. The Heathman’s motto is “Where Service Is Still an Art.” Applause! Applause! A sister property opened in Kirkland, Washington, in 2007.

Pioneer Place

700 SW Fifth Ave.

503-228-5800

www.pioneerplace.com

Within a short distance (perhaps a few blocks), you’ll find Pioneer Place, an upscale shopping area. I won’t list the shops, as they come and go, but I am certain high class will remain.

Things to Know:
The
Portland Light Rail
is a bargain. This can take you to many sights and discoveries. On busy corners, there are kiosks staffed with young, enthusiastic, knowledgeable people who are there to help you discover Portland. More cities should have this service.

On weekends there is the
flea market and street fair
, with lots of things to buy. When I was there I purchased a magical pixie-dust amulet. An amulet is a magical object worn to guide energy to the person wearing it. Have I had any magical pixie-dust experiences, you ask? Not that I know of, but then, I must confess, I have not been wearing it. Must do so, just in case.

Portland Classical Chinese Garden

239 NW Everett St.

503-228-8131

www.portlandchinesegarden.org

Here you’ll find impressive, quiet beauty and, to quote their brochure, “Never Twice the Same.”

Waterfront

The walk
to the waterfront is nice but also sketchy, as there are permanent stragglers in various clusters or prone positions.

McCormick & Schmick

0309 SW Montgomery

503-220-1865

www.mccormickandschmicks.com

I had looked forward to dining at
McCormick & Schmick’s, but the reception there was nil. Was it female scoffing or lack of experience? Regardless, after waiting and even walking around, I walked out.

Newport Bay at Riverplace

425 SW Montgomery St.

503-227-3474

www.newportbay.com

Newport Bay proved delightful, with delicious fare and sensible prices. In spite of the wind, I sat outside overlooking the water, and it was most attractive. The attendants were upbeat and friendly.

Across the street from the Heathman is the
Metro Café, a restaurant deli of sorts.

Metro Café

1000 SW Broadway

503-242-2435

I was able to get (from a most attentive young man named Matt) half a sandwich and a drink along with a big cookie. I took the morsels back to my room and just kicked back and planned the next day. Sometimes an easy meal hits the spot.

There is a lot to Portland. It would take a few days to see it. I am glad to have been there, and perhaps another visit will take place.

Driving Diva Tip:
Leave Portland and head south. Taking 26 West to 6 West, weave through
Ti
llamook State Forest
(www.tillamookforestcenter.org). The roads are beautiful, and if you stay on them, you will eventually reach the Pacific Ocean.

Oh My!
Always keep your eyes open for signs (and things) that hint at something special. Driving on Wilson River Loop Road, I saw a sign for Bullshit Road. (Excuse me, Mother!) Sometimes you just luck out.

I saw another sign on an old schoolhouse for Latimer Quilt and Textile Center. I decided to park the car and walked up to the door with great anticipation. I was sad to find that it was closed on that day, but I heard voices from inside. Of course, I knocked anyway, and the door was opened by a most attractive lady. There were several other ladies near the door too as a meeting had just adjourned. They let me in and what an event!

Latimer Quilt & Textile Center

2105 Wilson River Loop Rd., Tillamook

503-842-8622

www.latimerquiltandtextile.com

The displayed quilts (some hanging, some folded) were beautiful. The prices for the art were sensible. One could purchase quilting products or join a class. Related items were also for sale. Be sure to check this center out in person or electronically.

I learned that the building (circa 1940) had been a school for grades one through eight. Thirteen years before, it had been too dilapidated and about to fall down. Then a few determined women got together and developed this most special, creative, vibrant quilting center. Latimer Quilt and Textile Center is a must-see.

I reluctantly left, but not before I purchased an Over-the-Hill Voodoo Doll. The tag states, “Stick pin in whatever area is giving you problems. Instant relief! Use more pins as necessary.” Also, the ladies had enjoyed refreshments and goodies during their meeting. I was offered a delicious homemade lemon tart. Thank you, Latimer Quilt and Textile Ladies, for a wonderful visit! A true serendipity.

Tillamook Cheese Visitors Center

4175 Hwy. 101 N., Tillamook

503-815-1300

www.tillamookcheese.com

Judging by the size of the center and the number of cars and buses in the parking lot, this is a well-known destination. I am delighted to have made the discovery. Here you will find 78 million pounds of legendary Tillamook cheese to be delivered throughout the world. At the center, you can see cheese in the making, sample some tasty goodness, be tempted in the gift shop, eat lunch at the deli, and then sample some of the famous ice cream. The center is pristine and the staff very friendly. I asked what makes Tillamook cheese different, and they told me it was the fact that everything is aged naturally. The recipe is over one hundred years old.
The Creamery Café
is very popular. If I had only been hungry! Alert: The Tillamook fudge is made with Tillamook butter and comes in forty-three flavors. You might have to wait your turn to purchase, but you won’t be alone, and from all I hear, it is worth the wait.

The population of Tillamook is approximately four thousand. According to a brochure, there are a lot of area attractions, including the Pioneer Museum, the Til
lamook Air Museum, camping, clamming, crabbing, hiking, and walking the beaches.

Pioneer Museum

2106 Second St.

503-842-4553

www.tcpm.org

Tillamook Air Museum

6030 Hangar Rd.

503-842-1130

www.tillamookair.com

One of the most unusual events I have ever heard of is at the Tillamook county fair in August. It is called
Pig
N Ford Races
(www.pig-n-ford.com). Basically, the participants line up. At the signal, they rush over to some pigpens, grab one squeaking pig, run to their respective Model Ts at another starting line, put the pig in the car, and race to the finish line. I think you get the gist of this zany event. I just thought it was worth mentioning,

Creekside Restaurant

I-5, Exit 99, Canyonville

541-839-3110

The Creekside Restaurant in the
Sev
en Feathers Truck and Travel Center
(541-839-3100, www.i5exit99.com) in Canyonville (population approximately 1,200) was large, very clean, pleasant, friendly, and sensibly priced.

Ashland (Population Approximately 20,000)

Road construction
had lengthened the driving time, and it was late. Driving into town, I realized I was in a charming area as the streets were clean, and everything looked well kept. As the afternoon sky darkened, there was a glow all around. For a town its size, Ashland is full of wonderful discoveries and places.

Ashland Springs Hotel

212 E. Main St.

541-488-1700

www.ashlandspringshotel.com

I had heard so much about the restored Ashland Springs Hotel and was anxious to see the property firsthand. I had no problem finding it. It is the tallest structure in town with an impressive white facade.

Upon entering I knew I would not be disappointed. The Ashland Springs had the right environment mixed with a relaxed decor of overstuffed chairs and sofas. Tall potted palm trees added definition to areas in the big room. The large collection of sea shells mixed well. It was all charming. My room was most relaxing, clean, and cozy. There were pastel colors, a comfortable bed and sitting area, and a nice bathroom. It wasn’t fancy but just right.

An excellent complimentary breakfast with plentiful fresh fruit was served on the mezzanine. For the first time, I ate
pluots, a cross between a plum and an apricot. Delicious! There were hard-boiled eggs, various cereals, and yummy muffins. The coffee was also delicious. You sit at small, bistro-like tables, and there is no excuse not to talk to other guests as the entire ambiance lends itself to doing so.

The hotel is downtown, so walking around and exploring is easy. There are shops, restaurants, and the standard town emporiums.

At one time, the hotel bar was the longest in Oregon. The attractive decorative accents include movie items from the 1950s. The Ashland Springs Hotel is a charmer, a boutique hotel you will enjoy. Although I didn’t fully realize it when planning this trip, Ashland hosts the famous Ore
gon Shakespeare Festival, which is within walking distance of the Ashland Springs Hotel.

Oregon Shakespeare Festival

15 S. Pioneer St.

541-482-2111

www.osfashland.org

Spur-of-the-moment tickets are not to be counted on, as I found out. Investigate this special theater. Everyone I spoke to raved about it.

Southern Oregon University, with fifty-five hundred students, is in Ashland. The entire population of Ashland is about 20,000. I mention this because towns with a major academic contingent have added agendas, not to mention many young people.

Discoveries

Déjà Vu Fashion Consignment Shoppe

1644 Ashland St., Unit 3

541-522-0720

I found some goodies here!

Pilaf Global Pantry World Food

225 Water St.

541-488-4433

As this establishment is 100 percent vegetarian, it makes a nice change from more usual menus. It is pleasant and not that expensive.

Blue Giraffe Day Spa Salon

51 Water St.

541-488-3335

www.bluegiraffespa.com

About one block from the
Plaza on Ashland Creek
, this downtown spa can be a little hard to find as it is behind and around the block. It is by a real creek so—as I was told—follow the sound of the water. The decor is attractive and inviting, and there are many types of treatments to choose from. Since I was there, the spa has expanded, as has the variety of treatments. Go and enjoy over and over.

Medford (Population Approximately 63,000)

When in
Ashland, be sure to take a less-than-fifteen-minute drive to Medford. This town has the major stores, grocery chains, and so forth.

Harry & David

1314 Center Dr., Medford

541-864-2278 or 877-322-1200

www.harryanddavid.com

Medford is the corporate headquarters of Harry & David, purveyors of superb and delicious products. From Harry & David, you can order the fantastic Royal Riviera pears. A most informative tour is given of the plant’s facilities. You will realize by tour’s end that there is no doubt about the professed quality and caliber of the products. The strict quality control that has made Harry & David a leader in the field is evident even to the casual visitor. At the end of the tour, you are given a sample of one of the company’s products. I was given a tiny box with a couple of galettes and a mini mint, which were delicious. If you can’t visit the site, order from the catalogue or keep an eye out for some of the retail shops.

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