Romancing the Roads (27 page)

After visiting the Castle, I had intended to stay here, but I was ahead of schedule and decided to proceed to my next destination. The people at San Simeon Pines were very gracious, and the Pines are a must if you are ever in the area.

Morro Bay

Inn at Morro Bay

60 State Park Rd., Morro Bay

800-321-9566

www.innatmorrobay.com

It was a little after twilight when I drove into the circular driveway. The lights were twinkling, and I could see the bay on the other side of the building. My room, on the bay side with parking right in front, was simple, but comfortable and clean, and with a wonderful view—from what I could discern. I was delighted to be where I was.

I asked for a good, easy-to-reach restaurant, and the staff recommended the Great American Fish Company.

Great American Fish Company

1185 Embarcadero

805-772-4407

Dinner proved to be fine—nothing fancy. I ordered the “senior portion,” which does not mean large but rather that the patron is over thirty-nine and a half. It was just right. More restaurants should have such an option.

Waking early the next morning, I discovered what I had not seen in the dark. Whoa! The inn’s brochure describes the surrounding area better than I possibly could: “To the north stands a grove of 100-year-old cypress trees. To the south lies
Morro Bay National Estuary
[www.mbnep.org]. To the east stretches the 18-hole bay-view
Morro Bay Golf Course
[www.centralcoastgolf.com]. And directly out front—in the bay—rises the 20-million-year-old, six-story, former volcano given the name
Morro Rock
[www.morrobay.com/rock.htm] in 1542 by explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo.” I later learned that
morro
is the Spanish word for a Moorish turban.

After a light breakfast, and surmising that Morro Bay was probably just another beach community, I set out and discovered not only how very wrong my assumptions were but how very wrong a published review of a place can be. This particular review stated that there was not much to do aside from gawk at Morro Rock and the monstrous oceanfront electrical plant across the water from it.

Driving Diva Observation:
Some people cannot see real beauty if there is an obstacle nearby.

It turns out that there is a lot to do in this seaside community. A short drive from the inn is the main drag,
Morro Bay Boulevard, where I found La Petite and, next door, the Queen’s Closet.

La Petite

317 Morro Bay Blvd.

805-772-2361

This is a boutique store.

Queen’s Closet

325 Morro Bay Blvd.

805-772-4288

The Queen’s Closet sells plus-sized apparel. Fortunately (then!), I didn’t qualify to shop there. I learned that it had been in existence for thirty-seven years under three owners.

You wouldn’t think of recommending a fabric shop as a destination point for a road trip, but the Cotton Ball actually got me twice!

Cotton Ball

1199 Main St.

800-895-7402

www.thecottonball.com

This fabulous fabric and trimming shop also has craft supplies and a garden courtyard in the back filled with decorative items. It’s a treasure trove!

Forcing myself out of the shop and onward, I discovered these spots.

Best Friends

480 Morro Bay Blvd.

805-772-2002

This shop sells gifts and home decor.

Art Effects Gallery

435 Morro Bay Blvd.

805-772-5159

www.arteffectsonline.com

Kathleen McCarthy designs handmade lampshades of a theatrical nature.

Lina G’s All the Trimmings

468 Morro Bay Blvd.

805-772-7759

This interesting shop has an abundant supply and variety of trimmings and accessories.

Taco Temple

2680 Main St.

805-772-4965

Taco Temple is a popular eating place. Initially, I was hesitant to visit, but the promise of a California fusion menu lured me in. The card reads, “Taco Temple: Tacos, Burritos, Tostadas: The Freshest California Style Mexican Food on the Coast. Working Chefs & Owners: Adam & Dawnelle.” Taco Temple is small and nothing fancy, but the food is fabulous and the atmosphere friendly. It was wonderful! I wanted to order one of everything. Nothing on the select lunch menu was then over $8.95.

Back at the
Inn at Morro Bay, a most attractive restaurant is the
Orchid
(805-772-2238, ext. 1711). I dined there following drinks and hors d’oeuvres with one of the inn’s executives. With Morro Bay in the background and an abundance of orchids, the setting was delightful and the dinner delicious. Be sure the Inn at Morro Bay and the Orchid are on your agenda. There is also the
Bay Club
for casual dining: breakfast, happy hour, and dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.

San Luis Obispo

Madonna Inn

100 Madonna Rd.

800-543-9666

www.madonnainn.com

One cannot go to San Luis Obispo without at least stopping to take a look at the world-famous Madonna Inn. On the recommendation of friends who told me I would really be “in for something” if I stayed there, I booked a room and gave the place a try. My, my! I hadn’t quite prepared myself for this unique, funky, and wonderful find. Built, owned, and operated by Alex and Phyllis Madonna—Alex being the architect and wife Phyllis the interior designer—the place is the ultimate in California kitsch—nice, original kitsch. (Is that an oxymoron?) The Madonnas opened the first twelve rooms in 1958, but demand was so high that they quickly added another twenty-eight. In 1960 they started construction of the main inn, which now comprises 109 rooms. What makes the inn so unique? For one thing, no two rooms are alike, and they are all themed, from the Cave Man Room, with its rock walls, to the Safari Room, described as a “lively African setting with a jungle twist.” Where else can you stay in a bright red room with two king-size beds, Victorian furnishings, a seven-foot bathtub (so you know the bathroom isn’t small), and a huge rock fireplace that looks like it was designed by Fred Flintstone? The enormous living room also includes a small sink, refrigerator, and coffeemaker. Not that I am recommending it, but a family of ten with sleeping bags would have plenty of room in the Travelers Suite, as my accommodation was named.

The big, main dining room at the Madonna Inn is the
Gold Rush Steakhouse
(805-784-2433). Funky, slightly glitzy, sparkling, and more, it is not unattractive. How would you describe a dining room where you are greeted by the “swinging girl,” who has been swinging from the genuine oak branches overlooking the dining room since it opened? A love of pink helps, as there are tufted pink-leather seats, pink tablecloths, and a pink floral-patterned carpet. The ceiling is filled with hundreds of little twinkling lights, which also cover plants throughout the room. Believe it or not, it all works. I had a delicious steak dinner in this twinkling room, and for dessert, a slice of one of the inn’s famous three-layer cakes did the trick. Oh so good!

Driving Diva Factoid:
According to the Madonna Inn brochure, “The twenty-foot gold tree fixture in the main dining room was made from electrical conduit, left over from building projects, as well as some left over copper.”

The
Silver Bar
(805-784-2432), which also doubles as the morning meeting place for coffee and a Danish, continues the red-and-pink theme.

At the
Bakery & Pastry Shop
(805-784-2437), a more casual meal can be had, and it is most popular with tourists as well as the locals. A large sign proclaiming, “Let’s Eat and Be Forever Happy,” greets you upon your entry—so Madonna Inn! I could wax on about the delicious choices on the menu. I settled for a Monte Cristo and coconut pie. While I was eating, someone came up behind me and asked, “Is everything all right?” Turns out it was Mr. Madonna himself! We quickly conversed, and he introduced me to his buddy Harry Henderson, sitting a seat down from me.

FYI:
As for individual bakery goods, the early bird definitely catches the worm here, as many of the best and most popular items disappear quickly. The bakery aficionados are there very early.

Shopping options at the Madonna Inn include, for ladies, the
My Favorite Things Boutique
(805-784-2441)—lucky me! I just happened to be there when there was a sale!—and the Brass Tower Men’s Store, both of which are well and selectively stocked. I learn now that they have been combined.

FYI:
One of their signature items is pink sugar. You can get it in a shaker or by the pound. Next time, at least a dozen will be in my car. Fun!

Believe it or not, a local attraction for women is the Wine Cellar Waterfall Men’s Room. Yes, I did say men’s room. I’ll leave it at that. Perhaps it presents an ingenious way to avoid left-up toilet seats and unattractive splashes. (Of course, make sure that there aren’t any men in there before you go in.)

A Mother’s Question:
What’s a good way to “train” little boys?

Speaking of “facilities,” the ladies room is brightly colored, and a sign above the vanity reminds, “Your beauty is your smile”! The restroom also had a small basin and toilet for little ladies. Adorable!

The Spa at Madonna Inn
is just up the hill. If you want to pamper yourself, be sure to make an appointment ahead of time. I found my treatment relaxing and pleasant.

Driving Diva Factoid:
In April 2004, Alex Madonna passed away due to a heart attack. He was eighty-five. It was obvious he had lived a full and creative life, starting his construction business before he graduated from high school. After serving in the army during World War II, he returned to build or repave most of Highway 101. He constructed the bridge over Twitchell Reservoir, which
Bridges Magazine
named the most beautiful bridge in the country in 1958, the same year the Madonnas opened the Madonna Inn. The rest is history. I feel honored to have met this unique gentleman. I look forward to a revisit and to seeing Mrs. Madonna, her daughter, and her staff. Also, Harry Henderson has passed away. Thank you for special and wonderful memories.

Just up the road, actually across from the Madonna Inn
, is the Madonna Plaza.

Madonna Plaza Shopping Center

271 Madonna Rd.

805-544-5710

The standard shops are there, and it’s very convenient to the inn.

Downtown San Luis Obispo

Downtown San
Luis Obispo is just a few minutes away by car from the Madonna Inn.

Smokin’ Mo’s BBQ

1005 Monterey St.

805-544-6193

www.smokinmosbbq.com

I recommend Mo’s for lunch. Once I parked the car, I simply followed the aroma. Since it was a little early for lunch, I had a chance to look around. I discovered that when Mo decided to find out what barbecue was all about, he and a buddy traveled across the country to research the cuisine. They visited ten states and over eighty barbecue restaurants, purchasing chairs and taking pictures of cooks. These things now decorate the restaurant that the two buddies built from the ground up. Their goal was to be the finest barbecue restaurant in the West. Whether or not they succeeded, I cannot say, but on the day I ate there, it certainly was. You can purchase some of the sauces to take home, and there are now Mo’s in Pismo Beach, Huntington Beach, and Chico.

Fortified with barbecue, I left Mo’s to explore the town. I discovered a gem of a place, well cared for and not terribly congested. The main shopping street is Higuera. Here are some of my finds:

Creamery

470 Higuera St.

805-544-1446

This real creamery has unbelievable homemade ice cream. I’m not an ice cream freak, but this place could have made anyone a convert.

Finders Keepers

1124 Garden St.

805-541-5282

This consignment boutique was attractive and well kept.

A major discovery was Brio Caffe.

Brio Caffe: Cucina Italiana

1203
Marsh St.

805-541-5282

The husband-and-wife team of Manny and Rebecca Estrella have created a treasure. It is not fancy-schmancy, but everything is made from scratch with the freshest foods. The most expensive item on the lunch menu was linguini pescatore: sautéed shrimp, garlic, fresh tomatoes, basil, and button mushrooms tossed with linguine for $10.95. Most lunch items were from $5.25 to $8.35. Everything just right and delicious.

Santa Barbara

I have
been to Santa Barbara several times, making new discoveries with each visit.

Bacara Resort and Spa

8301 Hollister Ave.

805-968-0100

www.bacararesort.com

This is the type of place whose advertisements ooze glamour, luxury, and style. The male and female models smile and hold their champagne glasses out to you, she of the buffed nails (no fake claws), dark lipstick, full eyebrows, Marcel hairdo, and small breasts, attired in an evening gown that skins the body and draped in diamonds that sparkle right off the page. Am I envious of her body? Well, a little, but after many pregnancies, I wouldn’t exchange my rewards for a figure like that. But perhaps Bacara could work a little magic on me.

Bacara is not right in Santa Barbara, but more toward Goleta, about fifteen minutes from downtown. I had to use my OnStar to find it, though I confess that I drove by the entrance twice. It was not well marked.

A huge event was in progress when I arrived, and attendants were all over the place. I parked the car and went in the first big doorway I saw. I waited in line to check in, which was done in a rather haphazard but friendly way.

The property is so large that golf carts are often used to get to the rooms. The bellman was most helpful in getting me to my accommodations and showing me where the pool, spa, and restaurants were. The room was most attractive with an inviting porch. The walls were very light beige with dark brown ceiling beams. The furniture was mahogany. The ultrawhite bedspread, king bed, oversized pillows, and blue-print quilt were all appealing. There was also a big basket of extra towels. So much for the highlights of Bacara.