Read Romancing the Roads Online
Authors: Gerry Hempel Davis
Great Finds
Harwin Street
Harwin Street
is located two blocks off
Hilcroft Street
, two miles west of Highway 59. Time and comfortable shoes are a must! You are going to see so many things you want to need, but do not go crazy buying, even though you feel you’ve found a bargain—and there are bargains. The area is not fancy, but you’ll find a wealth of faux designer fashions, perfumes, and such. There is a shop for everything from watches, to eyeglasses, to lingerie, to whatever you thought you needed. Don’t be shy. Practice your haggling skills, and put them to use. Don’t go dressed up. Wear something very casual and nothing froufrou. Have fun, but be sensible and thrifty.
Charming Charlie’s
6959 Harwin St.
713-579-1911
This is a place to visit.
Westheimer Street in the Montrose Area
There are
so many funky, eclectic, wonderful places of all varieties in this area. To list them would be a task. To visit them is a treat.
The Galleria
5085 Westheimer
713-622-0663
www.galleriahouston.com
With about 350 stores, the Galleria is the fifth-largest mall in the country. Houston is full of high-end stores in the various shopping areas, which is to be expected in high-end Houston.
Driving Diva Tip:
To view some Texas-style Houston homes, drive slowly through
Heights
,
River Oats
, and
River Road
.
I saw a lot of antique shops on
Woodhead Street
that looked less like shops than impressive homes. I wouldn’t anticipate any bargains, but it would certainly be fun to look around.
I was recently told that I missed scoping out the
Guild Shop, whose sales benefit various charities.
Guild Shop
2009 Dunlavy St.
713-528-5095
www.theguildshop.org
How could I miss this? What a must-do! Don’t you miss it.
ArtCar Museum
140 Heights Blvd.
713-861-5526
www.artcarmuseum.com
Also known as the Garage Mahal,
this funky automobile museum opened in 1998. What a fun escape from the norm. Just walk around. Thought: Should I make my next cross-country odyssey in an art car?
Twice New Consignment Boutique
2005-D W. Gray, River Oaks Retail Center
713-523-2212
www.twicenew.com
This shop has a good selection, but I thought the prices were rather high.
Restaurants
Empire Café
1732 Westheimer Rd.
713-528-5282
www.empirecafe.com
This is an absolute must! We are not talking fancy-schmancy, just delicious, sensibly priced, and nice. Although it looks like a sit-down restaurant, it isn’t. There is a procedure: You line up (you will not be alone, but the line moves fast), place your order at the counter, and then go and sit down. Your order is then brought to you. I found it very difficult to make up my mind about what to order and ended up choosing the tomato basil soup and chicken salad. I also had a taste of the carrot cake and lemon poppy seed cake. You will not be disappointed. The coffees are delicious, and you might want to try the Italian sodas.
Every Monday is half-price cake night. You can sample pineapple carrot cake, Toll House cookie crunch cake, or whatever is special on the cake menu that day.
Rainbow Lodge
2011 Ella Blvd.
713-861-8666
www.rainbow-lodge.com
I did not know a thing about the Rainbow Lodge, but I found it to be a fantastic place. Deemed one of the most romantic restaurants, it has also received many awards. I discovered that the proprietor, a woman named Donnette Hansen (yes!), has owned the Rainbow Lodge for thirty years. My dinner date was a friend whom I had not seen for years. He now lives in Houston and knows the best places.
The lodge’s history is interesting. The
T
ied Fly Bar
is unique and definitely something to see. The carvings, which resemble a busy trout stream, were installed in seven pieces and are over twenty feet long. The menu was exceptional and varied, with selections ranging from the normal to the not so normal. For example, you can order the signature buffalo rib eye, a wild game mixed grill, roasted elk, or pine nut–crusted rainbow trout, and the selections go on. Of course, availability of some of these exotic choices will depend on the season. The Rainbow Lodge is definitely a must-see. It is a place where the food is as exceptional as the decor.
Crostini
3411 Shepherd
713-524-8558
What a nice, friendly restaurant. Although I had already eaten dinner, I sat at the bar talking with new friends introduced to me by my dinner date. They were kind enough to offer a taste or two from some of Crostini’s Italian dishes. All were very good with southwestern flavorings. Judging from the menu, selections are many and the prices sensible.
Huntsville
I had
left Houston and was heading for Dallas with no specific plans for the next couple of hours when suddenly I saw a sign for the Huntsville Visitors Bureau and a huge statue of Sam Houston.
Huntsville Visitors Bureau
7600 Hwy. 75 South
936-291-9726
www.huntsvilletexas.com
As I was to learn at the welcome center, there is a lot to Huntsville, and not just the usual attractions. Huntsville, home to the Texas Department of Criminal Justice, has a historic downtown walking tour and a prison driving tour. Seven prisons are located in the county. On the driving tour, you will see the T
exas Prison Museum, area prisons, and the prison cemetery.
Texas Prison Museum
491 H
wy. 75 North
936-295-2155
www.txprisonmuseum.org
Huntsville also has the Sam Houston University and the HEARTS (Helping Every American Remember through Serving) Veterans Museum.
HEARTS Veterans Museum
463 Hwy. 75 North
936-295-5959
www.heartsmuseum.com
The great outdoors should not be overlooked with the state park and the
Blue Lagoon
, where artesian springs feed into an old rock quarry. You can even scuba dive. Before you leave, be sure to visit King’s Candies and Ice Cream.
King’s Candies and Ice Cream
1112 Eleventh St.
936-291-6988
At this old-fashioned ice-cream parlor and c
andy factory, you can get sandwiches, soups, and salads, as well as old-fashioned fountain delights. Oh yes! My kind of place.
El Paso
Driving Diva Sharing:
The real reason I came to El Paso (besides that it was on the way) was that my friend, Nancy P., who was traveling with me for part of this odyssey, had not been to the city since her husband was stationed there during the war. More importantly, she told me that their first daughter had been born there. I knew it would mean a lot to her to see the area and the hospital. And it did.
C
amino Real Hotel
101 S. El Paso St.
915-534-3024
www.caminoreal.com
Located in downtown El Paso, this hotel definitely has a Mexican feel. It was not hard to find, but check-in was only okay. I was expected, and my name was in the computer, but we just didn’t get a warm welcome. How could anyone not be happy and friendly in such an attractive property?
I was to be in El Paso only until noon the next day, so I decided to take a walk around the area. It was hot, the shops were closing for the day, and I did not really feel that comfortable.
In 1912, the Camino Real Hotel was an elegant gem in the center of El Paso—and it is still a gem. The lobby is attractive with the focal point being a very impressive Tiffany glass dome. The chandeliers are beautiful, as are the stained glass windows. I could quickly discern that a lot of planning and pennies went into the building of this property. The hotel seemed slightly incongruous to the area—like a diamond in the rough.
It has 359 large rooms and suites. The accommodations were nice and clean, and the general decor was attractive. The
Dome
dining room and bar was relaxed and beautiful. Jason, the server, was excellent, not only in his service but also in relating the history of the area and hotel. This type of hotel personnel is extremely valuable. The light fare (by choice) was delicious. The bread basket contained a mix of hot, home-baked rolls, one of which was a biscuit with a walnut crust. Butter and jalapeno cream cheese were served with the bread basket. You could easily make a meal of the breads. For breakfast, you could choose from a large Mexican buffet or order American fare.
Upon leaving, I realized that this hotel represents a definite meeting of the old and new worlds and of America and Mexico. The area east of downtown was under development, and there are at least two large malls. There is a lot to discover.
Driving Diva Mileage:
I-10 East is a good interstate, but the drive to
San Antonio
is long and straight. In fact, it is over five hundred miles, with long stretches without a thing. Keep an eye on the gas gauge.
If you are hungry on the way to San Antonio, stop at Camp House BBQ in
Ft. Stockton
(population approximately 8,500).
Camp House BBQ
1216 N. Hwy. 285
432-336-9791
It was very good and not too greasy. I definitely recommend it.
The Ft. Stockton press states that it is “the Friendliest Town in Texas.” I discovered the following: The
T
exas Main Street Program
helps revitalize historic downtowns, and it is one of the most successful in the nation. I read that Ft. Stockton has one thousand motel rooms, pecan orchards, a museum,
Ste. Genevieve Wines
(432-365-2417), an eighteen-hole golf course, a B&B, and RV sites. Interesting.
San Antonio
Arriving in
San Antonio, I immediately felt joy and friendship. I think you will feel it too.
FYI:
The street to remember as a landmark is
Broadway
.
Hotels
Menger Hotel
204 Alamo Plaza
210-223-4361
www.mengerhotel.com
It was not difficult to find the downtown area where the historic Menger is located, right across from the
Alamo
(www.thealamo.org). The advertisement reads, “On the Riverwalk.” I pictured it on the banks of a river. More on this very wrong assumption later!
There are lots of traditions and history at the Menger, as well as several culinary features, one being the mango ice cream, which has been on the menu for over a hundred years. The
Colonial Room
(the main dining room) was previously known for its wild game and exotic dishes, such as wild turkey stuffed with chestnuts, soft-shell turtle soup made from turtles caught in the San Antonio River, dried buffalo tongue, and potted antelope. Does this mean intoxicated antelope? Just joshing. These exotic choices are no more, but the more regular choices are excellent.
The oldest hotel in San Antonio, the Menger proves to be a history lesson of sorts for all who are on property. Check-in was friendly and efficient. It is a delightful historic hotel, and although I could see that fine tuning was needed, I knew I would have a most pleasant stay. Major domo Ernesto Malacara, who has been with the hotel for over twenty-eight years, proved to be an interesting and friendly guide, as well as a wealth of information about the hotel and the area. The Menger is convenient to many attractions.
Driving Diva Confession:
It was early evening and time to discover the
Riverwalk
and areas around the Menger.
There were lots of people and police in the area, so I felt safe. Remember that the ad says, “The Menger on the Riverwalk”? Well, I expected to see a river close by. I walked, and I looked and looked. No river. Finally, sheepishly, I asked a policeman, “Where is the river?” He replied with a smile, “You have to go downstairs,” and pointed to steps descending from the street. I smiled perplexedly, as I thought, Down the steps to the River? Descend I did, and, indeed, there you find another world. The “river” was perhaps more accurately described as an underground canal. Truthfully though, it is a river, or part of one, that surfaces on the grounds of the University of the Incarnate World. All along the river there are shops, restaurants, people, noise, lights, music, and gaiety. You won’t have a problem finding things to do but rather just deciding what you want to do. It is fun.
Menger history:
In 1840 many German immigrants came to Texas. Two of them were Will Menger and Mary Baumschleuter, who married soon after arriving in Texas. Will Menger built his first beer brewery shortly afterward, and Will’s beer became very popular. Since so many people were enjoying too much of it, he decided a hotel was needed for the sleepy partiers. In 1857, Menger contracted for the construction of a hotel. In 1871, Menger died, and his good German wife continued to run the hotel for the next ten years. The Menger continues today and has become a true and significant San Antonio historic landmark.
The
Menger Bar
is a replica of the House of Lords Pub in London. It was in this bar that Teddy Roosevelt recruited some of his Rough Riders, or volunteers for the cavalry who fought during the Spanish-American War. The bar was carefully dismantled during Prohibition and finally reassembled in its present location.
Obtain the complimentary brochure for a self-guided tour. It is well done and explains the many attributes of the hotel, as well as its decorative arts.
This oldest continually operated hotel west of the Mississippi has ghosts. Ernesto Malacara, director of public relations, will relate stories from his experiences. These are not just about bumps in the night and flying objects but sightings of people without full bodies. Unfortunately, I did not experience any apparitions, but the stories are fascinating. Here’s my favorite: Captain R. King, founder of the King Ranch, appears entering his room, the King Suite. He does not enter through the present door but through the wall where the door was when he had his suite. Many guests and employees have seen Captain King.