Romancing the Roads (13 page)

The Menger’s accommodations were pleasant but needed updating, which I hear, as of this writing, have been done. The hallways are long and of medium width. The walls are thick, as in all older construction; therefore sounds are muffled, and quiet prevails. The Menger is a place to stay or visit for sure.

Hotel Havana San Antonio Riverwalk

1015 Navarro St.

210-222-2008

w
ww.havanasanantonio.com

Located at the northern end of the Riverwalk, this twenty-eight room (nonsmoking) property is upscale, whimsical, and bohemian, with absolutely beautiful antique decor. It was built in 1914, and there were many ups and downs in the beginning. In 1992, Theresa Greer, realizing its undeniable potentials, purchased the property and made it the unquestionable glowing gem that it is today. All is well appointed, eclectic, tasteful, modern, and unique. It is also romantic. The hotel is a state and national historic landmark and has received numerous well-deserved travel accolades.

After a tour of the Havana’s rooms and hallways, the next stop on the property was the patio overlooking the Riverwalk. Here, at
O
CHO Lounge
, one can dine or just imbibe. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served as well as a late night fare. There are several different sitting areas, my favorite being where one can watch the river action and gaiety. In 2005 they received the Best New Restaurant award and in 2011 they were voted one of the fifty best small hotels in the world I can truly say that I did not spy a thing that was not perfection.

Shopping and Sightseeing

Market Square

514 W. Commerce St.

210-207-8600

www.marketsquaresa.com

Here, in this bustling area, is
E
l Mercado
(www.marketsquaresa.com), comprising thirty-two shops modeled after an authentic Mexican market. What a collection of items of all varieties. Don’t hesitate to bargain. There are also about eighty shops in this area called the
Farmers Market Plaza
. The smiling faces, the strains of mariachi music that fill the air, and the bright colors indeed create an exciting atmosphere at Market Square.

St. John’s Company Store

7959 Broadway, Ste. 406

210-829-5366

www.stjohnknits.com

St. John’s is about twelve minutes from downtown, and although I did not have time to shop all the boutique stores in the area, I did manage to stop here. This attractive store has friendly personnel, the manager being Debra Fox. The sophisticated designs are pricey, but not quite as pricey as those at other shops. There is something special about a St. John’s knit.

Dining

Mi Terra

218 Produce Row

210-225-1262

www.mitierracafe.com

Mi Terra is said to be “a little loco and a lot of fun.” I agree, and what a way to start the day! For some reason I knew that anything I ordered would probably be enough food for several days. My guess proved correct.

Mi Terra provides a delicious mix of aromas, large spaces, gaiety, bright colors, and twinkling Christmas lights of all sizes hanging from the ceiling and everywhere! Mexican music plays in the background. You enter near the bakery area, where you can purchase, or just feast your eyes on, the Texas-sized cookies, pralines, biscuits, and more. Nothing is
pocieto
(Spanish for “small”)! The prices are very sensible. You cannot be anything but happy and very full at Mi Terra.

Established in 1940 by Pete and Cruz Llanes Cortez, Mi Terra has been open twenty-four hours a day serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner ever since its opening day. The Cortezes started this small business and proudly named it Mi Terra (meaning “my country”). Pete Cortez would often say, “I am an American by choice not by chance.” Their children and grandchildren are seeing that the traditions are maintained. Many of the employees are considered family—some having worked there for over twenty-five years.

The breakfast specialties are:

Huevos rancheros $8.25

Chorizo con huevo $7.25

Chilaquiles $9.25

Steak and eggs $9.50

In my notes on Mi Tierra, I found this good quote: “It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.”

The Alamo

300 Alamo Plaza

210-225-1391

www.thealamo.org

Of course, you cannot miss visiting the Alamo, which is just a few steps from the Menger. At this famous Texas spot in 1836, 189 brave and determined soldiers defended the old mission for thirteen days from 4,000 Mexican troops led by Gen. Antonio López de Santa Anna. The Alamo fell on March 6, 1836. Standing on the actual ground of a history-changing event is unforgettable.

A stone’s throw from the Menger and the Alamo is the
post office
. What an impressive building! It is also a court house.

San Antonio is a thriving, happy gem. A wonderful place.

Austin

Driskill Hotel

604 Brazos St.

512-474-5911

www.driskillhotel.com

The Driskill Hotel is a formidable edifice, with evident elegance and opulence. It was built by Jesse Driskill, who came from Missouri and later became a Texas cattle baron. Driskill wanted to build “one of the finest hotels in the whole country.” In 1886 he did just that, and so the traditions began. In the 1880s, the Driskill family lost their fortune and sold the hotel. But Driskill is not forgotten. His life-size portrait hangs in the lobby today.

In December 1995, Great American Life Insurance purchased the hotel, announcing plans to spend $30 million to restore it totally. What a restoration was done! Of course, there was an impressive building to start with, but the foresight of the restoration teams can only be admired.

I wasn’t hesitant to turn my car over to the pleasant and helpful front-door staff. The lobby is definitely august and dignified. The stained glass in the center of the ceiling
reflects on the glossy marble floor, as do the chandeliers. The large floor-to-ceiling pillars define the lobby. The colors are primarily beige and maroon, and large potted palms with graceful bending branches add softness to the area.

The hotel has twelve floors and 188 rooms. When I got off the elevator to go to my room, I felt like I was in a private library with a bookcase lining every wall. As I walked down the hall, I realized the hallways are art galleries.

The room accommodations were nice, but as I was to discover, some attention to details and changes needed to be made. I have recently been informed that the rooms have been updated without losing their historical integrity.

I report on my experience. The room was rather Victorian with dark colors. Lace curtains with heavy damask draperies were on the windows. The quilt was of a very heavy variety with too many decorative throw pillows. The lamps were finely decorated but not good for reading. There was an oversized pullout sofa, which was really too big for the area. The air conditioner vent was right over the bed—not good. The closet was too small, and you couldn’t open the door fully to use the mirror. The bathroom definitely needed tuning. I did not mind the fact that it was not large. It was a nice size. The magnifying mirror could have had a light. The glass shower door did not fit well. Water escaped onto the floor. There were few places to hang a towel. And there was a horseshoe toilet seat.

The hangers were of the moveable variety (thank you!), so I could hang up a dress and then hang it in the bathroom for a little bit of steaming. There was no coffeemaker in the room, and as I was to find out, the Driskill has no concierge or club floor.

I have just learned (but not seen) that there has been a lot of fine tuning at the property. Maybe some of my comments were learned via osmosis and have been considered.

I visited the acclaimed
D
riskill Grill
(512-391-7162), which has a beautiful setting indeed. I ate in the
1886 Café and Bakery
, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and on Friday and Saturday until midnight. The café is most pleasant and attractive, and the prices were sensible.

Sightseeing

Texas Capitol Visitors Center

112 E. Eleventh St.

512-305-8400

www.tspb.state.tx.us/SPB/capitol/texcap.htm

The capitol building is an impressive pink granite structure with a brilliant gold dome that sits high and prominently on the Austin skyline.

University of Texas at Austin

1 University Station

512-475-7348

www.utexas.edu

The University of Texas at Austin has fifty thousand students.

Tours of both the capitol and the university are available.

Lake Austin
is near downtown and offers bike and hiking trails, as well as paths for jogging and walking. A short walk from the Driskill you find the eclectic downtown area. I would not hesitate to walk alone in the area in the daytime, but late at night is a slightly different story.

Art, music, history, and pleasant lifestyles all contribute to Austin. The more I read about this area, the more I realize how much this Texas town has to offer.

Driving Diva Serendipity:
Approximately fifty miles north of Austin on I-35 North, I saw a sign for Salado, Texas, and the steering wheel pulled. Yes!

Salado

As reports
state, Salado is a historic—definitely touristy—town famous for its shopping and its bed-and-breakfast inns. It is a shopper’s destination with (as I was informed) one hundred shopping venues. It is definitely not a mall. There is a little bit of everything, including art, gifts, antiques, clothing, jewelry, handcrafts, and more. What an absolutely charming place. Visit even if you have to detour.

I first toured Salado from my car, driving up and then down the main street. “What a treasure!” I proclaimed. I decided to park in front of a long, two-story building that contained a shop called Heirlooms.

Heirlooms

26 Rock Creek Dr.

254-947-0336

A long, wooden porch was inviting, and the many treasures and friendly atmosphere once inside could not be denied.

You will find galleries of well-known Texas artists. The collection of dolls with attention to details is impressive. The blue and white porcelain is a collector’s delight. If nostalgia is your penchant, then you spend most of your time in the rooms full of touring hats, dresses, and the like.

I did not have time to see everything, but I did visit the following stores:

Texan by Design

3 Old Town

254-947-4479

Springhouse

120 Royal St.

254-947-0747

www.springhousesalado.com

Old Town Salado Store

15 Old Town

254-947-9000

Angelic Herbs & Inspirations

3 N. Main St.

254-947-1909

www.saladoangelicherbs.com

Chic, innovative, fun, and enjoyable would easily apply to the shops in Salado.

McCains Café & Bakery (formerly Uncommon Grounds Café)

417 N. Main St.

254-947-3354

An excellent choice! I learned from Lucas R. Martin that the food is better than ever. It is homemade food with Texas hospitality.

Salado has about twenty dining options and about an equal number of bed-and-breakfasts.
Salado
is a Native American word meaning “spring-fed creek.” It was the stopping place for stagecoaches and cattle drives. I was informed that you can still see the ruts in the bottom of the creek from the wagon wheels. Two Texas governors and authors have come from this little town of approximately twenty-three hundred people. Sam Houston, Gen. George Custer, and bandit Sam Bass thought of Salado as their away home. This is a must-visit-again.

New Mexico

New
Mexico is an interesting state. I-40 (which goes practically all the way across the United States) and I-25 (running north-south) are the main highways. Heading in any direction, you will experience long stretches without services, and then you will find an area full of many stores, but don’t gamble (except at the casinos)! Keep your gas tank half full and always have plenty of water.

Driving Diva Mileage:
Driving from very big Texas, I thought I would never see the New Mexico border welcome sign. On this particular part of the trip, I had traveled about three thousand miles, and it felt like twenty-five hundred had been spent just getting through Texas.

Silver Moon Restaurant

3701 Will Rodgers Dr., Santa Rosa

505-472-3162

Driving along I-40, I had not been in New Mexico for long when this small building caught my eye. It is a roadside delight of delicious foods and friendly hospitality with the goal of maintaining an original established tradition. The chicken quesadillas were fresh and just right. The price is absolutely sensible. The woman who managed the restaurant told me they had been there a long time and that the restaurant was actually on historic
Route 66
(www.historic66.com). It turns out that part of I-40 follows that older road. The Silver Moon Restaurant, to me, was a multistar restaurant that you will enjoy. Don’t pass it by.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Santa Rosa (population approximately 2,500) is a city of natural lakes and other attractions like
Route 66 Auto Museum.

Route 66 Auto Museum

2866 Will Rogers Ave.

575-472-1966

www.route66automuseum.com

In 1930, Route 66 “arrived” in town, and it became a traveler’s oasis. In 1935, Club Café opened with its soon-to-be-famous smiling Fatman logo, which many still remember. The café closed in 1991. The famous train scene in the 1940 movie
Grapes of Wrath
, in which Tom Joad, played by Henry Fonda, watches the train steam over the Pecos River, was filmed here. There are interesting tidbits to every tiny town.

Clines Corner

Right off
I-40 as you head out of Santa Rosa toward
Santa Fe
, this is a great stop for gas, food, restrooms, hats, Mexican jewelry, a selection of clothing, shoes, trinkets, jellies, and souvenirs. Check your map.

For a shortcut to Sant
a Fe, take Highway 285, a very good road.

Santa Fe (Population Approximately 65,000)

Santa Fe
is growing rapidly, but its historic downtown remains its main hub. It is called the “City Different” with attributes of exceptional merit. The Santa Fe streets are a little confusing, but don’t get frustrated. So what if you go around the block twice. Charming in many different ways, Santa Fe mixes the old world with the tourist world but never overlooks its Native American roots.

I recommend you obtain a map for a self-guided walking tour. It will prove very interesting. You can see more on foot in Santa Fe than in many other cities; the museums, art galleries, and shops are all within walking distance. Wear comfortable shoes and weather-appropriate clothing and be in a positive haggling mode for street shopping.

The Plaza and the Historic District

The Plaza
, with its inviting park, is the center of the downtown historic area. Acro
ss from the street, at the
Palace of the Governors
(www.palaceofthegovernors.org), many local Native Americans arrive each morning to sell their wares. You will find that shopping in Santa Fe is world-class, but as when shopping anywhere, be savvy, alert, and aware.

When in Santa Fe, I feel a certain artsy emotion. I enjoy the city with its diverse cultures, artistic mixes, and upscale places. During the summer, there are a lot of visitors. I cannot stress enough that the buyer should beware. Does it really compute that so many “handmade” items could all look exactly the same?

You’ll find a lot of Zuni art and wares; one should probably learn about Zuni art before buying. This goes for buying any kind of art anywhere.

Driving Diva Factoid:
You will see an immense number of fetishes—objects believed to have magic powers. Usually in the shape of a carved animal, they can be single items or strung in a collection on a necklace. Check the construction carefully.

Hotels

Inn of the Anasazi

113 Washington Ave.

505-988-3030

www.innoftheanasazi.com

The staff that greeted me was very attentive, both in parking my car and at the front desk. This is a very charming upscale property with only fifty-seven guest rooms. The traditional southwestern architecture and decor are extremely attractive; the service is professional. The rooms are little works of art and very romantic, with a four-poster bed, a gas-lit kiva fireplace, and appropriate art.

The inn is environmentally attuned, acknowledging that our resources are precious and must be conserved. High-tech water-filtration and conservation equipment have been installed. The Inn of the Anasazi, just a few steps from the Plaza, is indeed well situated.

The
Anasazi Restaurant & Bar
is attractive. During previous visits, I found the food tasty, but this time it was not up to par. However, the service was very good. That can happen sometimes. I have been told that Chef Oliver Ridgeway is now at the helm in the kitchen and that the restaurant will not disappoint. I definitely recommend visiting this charming establishment.

Driving Diva Factoid:
Anasazi is Navajo for “ancient ones.”

Las Palomas

460 W. San Francisco St.

877-982-5560

www.laspalomas.com

This small, delightful hotel (I have heard it called a bed-and-breakfast too) is owned and run by noted opera tenor Neil Rosenshine, whose enthusiasm for life, his family, and his Las Palomas is immediately evident when you meet him. Neil has retired from the stage and is now teaching in Santa Fe, New York City, and Europe.

Las Palomas is nestled into a small street called West San Francisco, which is actually just a few blocks from the Plaza and other sights in Santa Fe. It is easy to find. Parking is in the courtyard—so convenient. Immediately, as I walked up onto the porch, I noticed how friendly and hospitable everyone was.

After checking in, I was shown to my room. Each room seemed like a little casita constructed from adobe bricks. My casita had a small porch. The room was large and had sitting and kitchen areas. A complimentary continental breakfast is offered and can be enjoyed in your casita or in the reception area. Breakfast was definitely very delicious!

Though not ultrafancy, Las Palomas is a delightful and comfortable oasis for the traveler. The pluses far outweigh any minuses, although I would recommend more lighting in the room. (This may have changed or was perhaps just a tiny oversight when I was there.) I look forward to going back to Las Palomas. It is relaxing, convenient, and totally charming.

Recently, Las Palomas was able to acquire the two adjoining B&Bs—how fortunate! Also, a few blocks away,
Zona Rosa Suites
(429 San Francisco St.) is under the umbrella of Las Palomas/Neil Rosenshine. These are large accommodations of varying sizes with kitchens and full amenities, ideal for families visiting the area for a length of time or perhaps for the Opera season.

Inn and Spa at Loretto

211 Old Santa Fe Trail

800-727-5531

www.innatloretto.com

The Inn and Spa at Loretto in downtown Santa Fe is comfortable and convenient, with all the perks and amenities you could expect from a AAA Four Diamond property. In the couple of years since I was there, Condé Nast has ranked the inn number eighty-one in the United State and the spa number thirteen. Over $8 million has been spent—and spent well. I look forward to seeing the new inn and spa in person.

From the outside, the hotel looks as though it’s constructed of adobe building blocks placed at different angles on top of each other. At night, the entire edifice looks magical, as lights brighten and accent surfaces here and there. The main floor is large, with many hallways, shops, and such.

Luminaria
(505-984-7915), the delightful restaurant on property, is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Each meal I have enjoyed at this restaurant has been good or delicious. The patio, surrounded with flowers and sculpture, is open during the summer months.

I look forward to visiting the Spa at Loretto (505-984-7997) so I can experience the “Sacred Stone” and “Native Desert Sage” massages.

Loretto Chapel

This small but magnificent chapel has a twenty-two-foot-high staircase with no center support. The construction has baffled everyone, and the builder remains unknown. As the story goes, the chapel’s construction was completed, but accessing the choir loft had never been addressed and a choir loft was essential. The nuns prayed for an answer and made a novena (a nine-day period of prayer) to St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. On the final day of prayers, a man looking for work arrived on a donkey with a toolbox. He immediately began work and, when he was finished, vanished, never even asking for payment. Despite repeated efforts, he never was found, and some believe it was Saint Joseph himself. Constructed with wooden pegs, the staircase has thirty-three steps and makes two complete 360-degree turns. Sit a while in the chapel. It is beautiful—a must-see!

Bishop’s Lodge

Bishop’s Lodge Rd.

505-983-6377

www.bishopslodge.com

This is a ranch resort for the entire family, and it is only five minutes from downtown Santa Fe. Accommodations are attractive, the hospitality friendly, and the food delicious. The resort offers a complimentary year-round shuttle to town and, in the winter, transportation to the nearby ski area.

Bishop’s Lodge is a cross between a sports complex, a wellness center, a retreat, and, if desired, an escape from life’s usual agendas. There are the trails for hiking and horseback riding, ranges for skeet and trap shooting, tennis, swimming, and other activities for children and adults. The latest addition, the
Villas
, can be rented for a real home away from home.

The
Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar
has many menu options and sits in a beautiful setting. The Bishops Lodge, though just a short distance from bustling Santa Fe, allows you feel as if you are miles away.

La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and Spa

330 E. Palace Ave.

505-986-0000

www.laposada.rockresorts.com

Easy to find by car and a short walk from downtown, this property is truly an oasis. Once inside, you feel as if you are miles away from anywhere.

As of this writing, La Posada has a few very nice rituals, all gratis:

Monday:
Margarita Monday (don’t forget the aspirin)

Tuesday:
Tropical exotic drinks by the pool

Wednesday:
Wine tasting

Thursday:
Cheese tasting

Friday:
Chef’s reception in the kitchen

Also, on Tuesday and Friday, s’mores are served by the fireplace. What pleasant ways to meet other guests! Check the rituals and plan accordingly!

The public rooms are very attractive and inviting. You feel more like you are in a private home than in a hotel. There are 159 rooms nestled into the property—a number that I would not have guessed because they are truly nestled. The rooms are attractive and well appointed. Earth tones ranging from light to dark accented the turquoise and bright orange in the decor. The art is displayed nicely, and the amenities are many. Some of the rooms have kiva fireplaces and a patio or porch. The romantic setting is unquestionably a delight for all.

Driving Diva Factoid:
The original building was built by Abraham Staab in 1882 for his wife and soon-to-be-large family. It was constructed in the French Second Empire style and decorated with the finest European furnishings. Staab and his wife, Julia, entertained here. There are many stories—some of which underscore the truth that wealth does not eliminate sadness—but be that as it may, legend has it that Julia adored her home so much that she rarely left it. Some claim she is still very much on the property. Julia passed away in 1896 and Abraham in 1913. In the 1930s, the Nasons owned the property and turned it into a hotel called La Posada (Spanish for “inn” or “resting place”).

Fuego
is La Posada’s AAA Four Diamond Award–winning restaurant. It is very attractive. I didn’t feel as if I was in a commercial eatery. It is southwestern cozy. Fuego serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and a Rancher’s Brunch on Sundays. One can also dine on the Garden Patio,
Viga
, but at the end of the day, a nightcap should be had in the
Staab House
, said to be “Santa Fe’s Most Romantic Bar.”

The
Rock Resort Spa
is a full-service spa and “an oasis for the senses.” Perhaps it is the oasis atmosphere that gives it a special feeling. It is very professional, and the facial, massage, and adobe mud wrap were excellent. Reservation are suggested. La Posada is continually upgrading, and major renovations were completed in 2009.

La Fonda

100 E. San Francisco St.

505-982-5511

www.lafondasantafe.com

This historic property was built in 1922. In 1925, the Atchinson, Topeka, & Santa Fe Railroad acquired it and leased it to the legendary Fred Harvey, who established the Harvey House hotels throughout the United States. In 1968, La Fonda came under local ownership, and its presence in downtown Santa Fe remains. The original adobe hotel was known to be “at the end of the Santa Fe trail,” which happens to be in the Plaza. Its pueblo-style architecture, thick visible beams, and New Mexican decor take you away from the real world. La Fonda is not only a focal point in itself but a hub of activity with its restaurants, shops, and attractions.

There are 167 well-decorated rooms and suites. The hand-painted furniture is most attractive, and of course the southw
estern architecture, furnishings, and artistic appointments all blend to provide a special ambiance. The rooms are spacious.