Romancing the Roads (17 page)

The Oxford Hotel today has true old-world charm. It is one of “Colorado’s Most Romantic Hotels” and one of the “50 Best Hotels in the World,” according to
Hemisphere Magazine
. The Oxford’s card states, “Where the past and present join to perfection.” I agree.

Be certain to take a tour of the hotel; see the oversized men’s necessities downstairs and find out about the tunnels leading away from the hotel. All I add is, “Men will be men.”

The hotel’s Cadillac car with friendly driver is at your disposal, at no charge, to chauffeur you to any place within two miles. You can call for the car to come get you when you are ready to return to the Oxford. This is a wonderful service, particularly for women.

The
Cruise Room
(303-825-1107) off the hotel’s lobby opened in 1933 and is in the style of the cocktail lounge on the famed
Queen Mary
cruise liner. It is art deco in style, and the atmosphere is absolutely friendly. Everyone always raves about the drinks, and I can attest to their quality, especially the lemon martini or was it a vodka gimlet? The chrome-with-red-leather seats add to the comfort of this bar, as do the delicious liquids.

McCormick’s Fish House & Bar
(303-825-1107) adjoins the hotel and Cruise Room. I have not eaten here, but from reports, McCormick’s has maintained its acclamation of being a longtime national favorite. At the ever-lively front bar, a favorite for neighborhood residents as well as evening guests, in the 1970s you could often bump elbows with John Denver or Peter, Paul, and Mary. McCormick’s is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Prices are sensible. McCormick’s will also serve you in the Cruise Room.

Il Fornaio
is also under the Oxford’s roof. You can charge your meal to your room. I have not eaten there, but the sign says, “Serving Regional Selections in an Authentic Setting.”

The award-winning
Oxford Spa & Salon
(303-628-5435) is adjacent to the hotel. A small, full-service spa, it is friendly, professional, and very convenient. The health club is free to all guests. Yoga, Pilates, and cardio classes are available. The decor has a western aura—earth tones and dark colors. Hotel guests receive a 10 percent discount for spa use and spa products. Go and enjoy!

Hotel Monaco Denver

1717 Champa St.

303-296-1717

www.monaco-denver.com

I have tried several times to stay at this colorful hotel, whose decor alone entices me. The hotel’s mascot “Lillie,” a Jack Russell terrier, is often in the front lobby to greet you. Perhaps one day I will be able to stay onsite and look the property over firsthand.

Panzano

909 Seventeenth St.

303-296-3525

www.panzano-denver.com

One of the many perks of research trips is the serendipities. The following is one of
the
best. Often one finds a restaurant where the food is excellent, but the attitude is shoddy and the service slack or the decor out of style. Not here! Panzano is close to perfect. Why don’t I just say, “It is perfect!”

First visit:
I first visited Panzano after a long drive, and a major meal was not under consideration. I was impressed that, despite my not wanting a big meal—perhaps just a salad—the attentions from the staff were most pleasant and understanding. The suggested salad was very delicious. The total atmosphere is wonderful. You can see the open brick oven where the breads are made daily. Warm breads are served immediately. Try not to eat too much bread (which is hard to do) as the meal, regardless of what you order, promises to be outstanding.

Second visit:
This most special of Italian restaurants is under the aegis of creative, talented, hospitable, and knowledgeable executive chef Elise Wiggins. Upon entering you see the sparkling glassware, the bright white tablecloths, the dark wood furniture, the accessories, and the smiling personnel. Everything seems—and actually is—just right. Nothing is ostentatious or gimmicky.

Once seated, you begin a most positive gastronomic experience. Water of your choice is immediately offered, and breads are delivered.

Warning:
I repeat, the breads are delicious, but do not consume too many. The best is yet to come.

Here is a summary of what I enjoyed: The tapenade was excellent. Not too salty and spread on the fabulous bread, it was just right. Chef Wiggins, knowing that I wanted to discover many aspects of her cooking skills, created a selection of small tastes of various appetizers. Each was excellent, although I think my favorite was the layered squash and vegetables with goat cheese.

As a main course, I enjoyed scaloppine di vitello: veal medallions with spinach, lemon, capers, and sun-dried tomatoes. It was probably the best veal, or close to it, that I have ever enjoyed. A sampling of the homemade gnocchi with wild mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, baby spinach, and gorgonzola cream proved delicious, and I am not a gorgonzola enthusiast. Dessert was a chocolate crème brulée. Whoa!

What an interesting conversation I had with Chef Wiggins as she described what I was eating. There was no question she knows her trade, and she is upbeat and fun. Here’s a culinary tidbit she shared with me: When balsamic vinegar is aged like wine, it becomes delicately sweet.

Panzano = friendly and delicious perfection. Don’t miss enjoying. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Call or check the Internet for hours.

Sixteenth Street Mall

This focal
point has greatly improved since my first visit. It has clothing shops, chain stores, drug stores, and restaurants. Would I call it a must-do? More yes than no. Get your film developed, find a pair of comfortable shoes, buy a souvenir, have a good meal—yes. Maybe you’ll get lucky and find something fantastic. Go there alone at night? Maybe not.

To Denver highway officials:
Better signage is needed. You can see where downtown is from the tall buildings on the skyline, but if you are not from the area, it is not obvious which exit to take. Signage is also poor going to and coming from the airport. The natives know, but visitors need detailed and explicit signs. This trip I can say, “Thank you, OnStar, for guiding me.”

Leaving Denver

Finding U.S. 36
out of Denver is not difficult. The highway between Boulder and Denver has become a major thoroughfare for commuters and visitors. There are major developments on both sides of the highway. The drive from Denver to Boulder takes about forty-five minutes, depending on traffic and snowstorms.

Boulder (Population More Than 105,000)

The first
settlers came to Boulder around 1858, during the Pikes Peak gold rush. By 1860, Boulder had the first schoolhouse in Colorado, and the first frame house had been built. Prior to 1861, Colorado was part of Nebraska, and in 1862 Boulder County was formed. Boulder has not stopped “rushing” and building since those early days, and a list of all the city’s “best of” awards would span pages. This is not a small town; yet, it has a small-town, friendly, open feeling, and of course it’s very outdoorsy.

The drive into Boulder from Denver is scenic. Boulder is an attractive university town, full of the activity that its large, youthful population brings to the area. The
Flatirons
rise to over eight thousand feet above the city and still farther beyond, forming a dramatic backdrop. The snow-capped
Continental Divide
looms at over thirteen thousand feet. Cosmopolitan in a relaxed way, Boulder has a little bit of everything.

Hotel Boulderado

2115 Thirteenth St.

303-442-4344

www.boulderado.com

Its name an elision of Boulder and Colorado, this historic downtown hotel first opened in 1909. Had you checked in then, the rate would have been from $1 to $2.50 a night, depending on room size and conveniences. Visiting this landmark, you will feel like you are stepping back in time. The rates are slightly higher, and the conveniences are many. At this enjoyable property you will find an attractive, efficient staff whose goal to please is obvious.

During one of my visits, I discovered that sloppy (if any) attention had been given to my bedding. Once I notified the staff, the problem was quickly fixed, and the apologies were many.

Note:
This can happen anywhere. I experienced similar at a multistar hotel. If you are in this situation, be certain to report the oversight. Many hotels have “room checkers,” which is a good policy.

Parking is convenient. Often there are parking spaces by the hotel, but valet parking is also available.

Q’s Restaurant
(303-442-4880, www.qsboulder.com) is well appointed and superior, with an excellent menu and sensible prices. During happy hour, everything on the bar menu is half off. There is also the “Every Night Special”: a five-course chef’s tasting for $55 or five courses and five wines all-inclusive for $85.

The
Corner Bar
(303-442-4560), open from 11:30 a.m. to midnight, is an ideal place for whatever your gastronomic appetite desires. At the
Catacombs
(303-443-0486), one of Boulder’s first liquor-licensed bars, music and libations are specials.

Pearl Street Pedestrian Mall

Within a
very short walk of the Boulderado is the award-winning
Pearl Street Pedestrian Mall
.
This attractive area has always been a favorite of mine. It is well laid out with a wonderful mix of shops, some quite pricey, but all with a vibrant, friendly atmosphere. You can enjoy the show either by people watching, window shopping, or store browsing. There are several street performers: Bongo the Balloon Man makes animal-balloon creations, and the Zip Code Man will guess your hometown when you tell him your zip code. Or watch in awe as the contortionist folds himself into a small box. There is definitely something for everyone.

Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse

1770 Thirteenth St.

303-442-4993

www.boulderteahouse.com

This real teahouse was a gift from Boulder’s sister city, Dushanbe, Tajikistan. The only one in the Western Hemisphere, its main purpose is to make souls happy. Decorated by over forty native artisans over a three-year period, its vibrant colors and furnishings are outstanding. There are one hundred different types of teas and a full bar, and the teahouse is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Your soul will be happy.

Boulder County Farmer’s Market

Thirteenth St. between Arapahoe and Canyon

303-910-2236

www.boulderfarmers.org

This is a great place to stock up on the most delicious fresh edibles, as well as jellies, flowers, homemade items, and so forth. This farmer’s market is a happening. I recommend, if available, the Colorado peaches. You will taste why with your first bite (see
Palisade
, Colorado).

Celestial Seasonings Tea Company

4600 Sleepytime Dr.

303-581-1531

www.celestialseasonings.com

Although I have not yet had the time to visit, I look forward to taking the forty-five-minute tour, seeing some of the 8 million tea bags made per day, and visiting the
Mint Room
! I hear the tour is most informative and fun, and I recommend it. I certainly recommend their teas.

Millennium Harvest House

1345 Twenty-eighth St.

303-443-3850

www.millenniumhotels.com/millenniumboulder

I found the staff very friendly and competent at this nice commercial hotel. There is a lot of activity. The hotel is convenient to many stores. My room was large, but the decor was dark. The bedside lamps are placed so high that turning them off is a big stretch. The bathroom had all the necessities and amenities.

The
Club Room
on the fourth floor provides a microwave, coffee, and depending on the time of day, pastries, cheese and crackers, and such. The ice machine is nearby. This is a friendly, professional hotel.

FYI:
Boulder has all the chain stores and then some. It is a college town as well as an upscale mountain town, so anything you forget to pack you can get here.

Estes Park

The drive
from Boulder to Estes Park is pleasant, and the road has definitely improved since my first visit several years ago.

Nearing Estes, you feel as if you are looking at a picture postcard. It is most attractive but soon you realize—particularly in the summer—that too many others have discovered Estes.
Elkhorn Avenue
, the main drag, is now jammed with trinket shops, taffy stores, moccasin and buckskin jacket stores, and endless T-shirt shops.

The Stanley

333 Wonderview Ave.

970-577-4000

www.stanleyhotel.com

F. O. Stanley, of Stanley Steamer fame, arrived in Estes Park in 1903. Realizing the potential of this beautiful area and knowing that it needed a major hotel, he purchased 160 acres and began his project.

It took two years to complete the main building, and as they say, the rest is history. By 1940, the year of his death, Stanley had not only built his grand hotel but created a sewer, power, and water company and the first bank in Estes.

The Stanley is a grand hotel. In years past, it suffered a decline, receiving few attentions. I am glad to report that upgrades and improvements have at last started and are succeeding.

Many types of rooms are available, with rates ranging from $119 to $1,500, depending on the season. Villas have also been built for rent or purchase.

The Stanley was featured in Steven King’s
The Shining
, and it is said to have several haunted rooms. Visit this historic hotel.

Sweet Basilico Café

430 Prospect Village Dr.

970-586-3899

www.sweetbasilico.com

Owned by Raul and Shawn Perez, this is one of my very favorite small Italian restaurants. The food is wonderful. The Italian classics—lasagna, manicotti, eggplant parmesan, homemade focaccia—are absolutely delicious. The atmosphere is delightful, and the prices are right. Unless you plan to get there when they open, make a reservation. Enjoy.