Romancing the Roads (15 page)

Further along, you discover the Earthship World Headquarters.

Earthship World Headquarters

2 Earthship Way

575-751-0462

earthship.net

Here passive solar houses are made out of recycled materials, including automobile tires. The water used is from the rain, and the power is from the sun. The subdivision sits on 633 acres, and there are approximately forty-six homes. It is designed for 130. There is a visitor’s center, a video tour, and an option to rent an Earthship home for just a night or two.

FYI:
The “tour” consists of your paying $5, then sitting on a bench to watch a video

Driving Diva Reminder:
There’s not much around. Remember gas and water.

Ojo Caliente

50 Los Banos Dr.

505-583-2233

www.ojocalientespa.com

About an hour and a half from downtown Santa Fe, this unique oasis of mineral springs is so special that only seeing is believing. It is one of the oldest health resorts in North America and the only one in the world with its combination of four geothermal mineral waters. It is a peaceful and majestic place to visit.

There are seven springs with four different types of mineral water here. The minerals are arsenic, iron, soda, and lithia. The one hundred thousand gallons of geothermal mineral water steam to the surface daily and afford each participant an unusual experience not quickly forgotten. To me they are exceptionally wonderful. You can obtain therapeutic massages and special body and facial treatments here.

I read somewhere, and think it is worth sharing, that drinking any of the waters while bathing helps to eliminate excessive acids and other impurities, creating more vitality and energy.

I have visited Ojo several times. On my first visit, the lodgings are modest, clean, and comfortable. My room had two beds, a TV without a remote, a small porch, a tiny kitchen area, and a bathroom with only a toilet and sink. Remember, you have been soaking all day, and your skin feels so wonderful. You do not need a shower. That was back then. On my second visit, some fixing up had been done, and now I read that a lot has been done. From the pictures on their site, indeed the circa 1930 buildings and aura have changed. Regardless, I know that Ojo Caliente remains a wonderful oasis in every way possible. The fact that it was named one of the “Top 10 Best Hot Springs in the World” says something. Go and enjoy.

Also available to rent are the
Adobe, Hill, and Mauro houses
, each with several bedrooms, complete kitchens, bathrooms, and such.

Personal Testimonial:
During this last odyssey, I slashed the top of my arm. It was a deep cut positioned so that I would inadvertently bump it periodically. After my initial soak at Ojo, I applied the indigenous Ojo mud and let it cake on my arm. I baked in the sun for a while, and when the spirit moved me, I got into the spring and cleaned off. I could not believe that the cut on my arm had closed dramatically. By mid-evening, it was truly almost healed!

The
spa
provides massage therapy and body treatments of various descriptions. Yoga classes are exceptional, and the “Stretch and Soak” routine is a must. One can enjoy a wonderful wrap between 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. for about $12. I choose the evening. It is recommended that you have a good soak in the geothermal waters to increase your body temperature before being wrapped. You lie on a table in a dimly lit room. An attendant wraps you in a sheet, mummy-like, and you just lie there for about thirty minutes. The purpose is to withdraw impurities from your body. It’s a must-do unless you are claustrophobic.

Alert:
Consumption of alcohol when using the facilities may impair judgment.

Ojo Caliente’s
Artesian Restaurant
is casual dining at its best. The southwestern cuisine is creative. Lighter fare and vegetarian delights are also on the menu. It is truly a friendly place, and the staff obviously enjoy working at Ojo.

There are also mountain bike and horseback trails to enjoy.

Driving Diva Factoid:
On the property is the only round barn in New Mexico, and it is said to be the only remaining adobe round barn in the United States. It is a short walk from the main springs. Renovations are ongoing. This unique building will be available for yoga retreats, seminars, and special events.

Rancho de San Juan

U.S. Hwy. 285 between Espanola and Ojo Caliente, 3.5 miles north of the junction of Hwys. 84 and 285

505-783-6818

www.ranchodesanjuan.com

Thirty-five miles from Santa Fe and fifteen minutes from Ojo Caliente, you will find the award-winning Rancho de San Juan. This beautiful desert oasis offers guests gorgeous suites, individual casitas, exceptional dining, and more. Here, in the middle of 225 desert acres, you will find upscale touches everywhere. Starched table linens, polished silver, sparkling crystal, and beautiful dinnerware all enhance the gourmet dining. The Frette linens, the fresh flowers, and all the attention to detail made the accommodations superb.

Fashionable and friendly, Rancho de San Juan, though described in the brochure as a “country inn and restaurant,” is anything but. Its owners, David Heath and John Johnson, are perfectionists and professionals. John also has the title of chef, to which I add “outstanding.” One does not have to stay at this oasis to dine there.

At this desert haven, you will find the
Sandstone Shrine
, which took artist Ra Paulette two years to complete. Commissioned by the owners, this unique work is in a sandstone butte on the side of
Black Mesa
. Cathedral windows look out onto the Ojo Caliente River valley and toward the
Jemez Mountains
. Strategically placed mirrors and inlays of stones within the interior create a most unique place of meditation. This shrine has been the scene of weddings, small concerts, and special events.

There is much to do in the area, including white-water rafting, swimming, hiking, skiing, and fishing.

Lodge and Ranch at Chama

16253 Hwy. 84 S.

575-756-2133

www.lodgeatchama.com

This is possibly one of the most upscale hunting and fishing lodges I’ve ever visited. If hunting and fishing are on your agenda, and your pockets are fairly deep, then this is the place to go! It is a trophy. Reservations are a must.

I-25 North to Colorado

I did
not take the most direct route as I went back to Santa Fe and then onto I-25 North. I will take part of the blame, but for sure, the signage could be better. I was not too perturbed as this long route took me to Las Vegas, New Mexico, which proved a unique serendipity.

Las Vegas (Population Approximately 15,000)

Las Vegas
, New Mexico, was named over seventy years before that
other
Las Vegas. Driving into town, I immediately felt a special charm and quality. It is not glitzy or bustling, but it oozes something most pleasant.

Entering this New Mexico town, you go over the railroad tracks and straight onto Douglas Avenue, the center of town. It was quite busy. There was a parking place in front of an antique store whose windows were chockablock full (just my type of diversion!). Unfortunately, I just learned that it has closed. Oh my! What a challenge to get rid of all those items. Built in 1898, the Castaneda on Railroad Avenue was one of Fred Harvey’s famous Harvey
House hotels. Although now closed, it was one of the originals.

El Fidel Hotel

500 Douglas Ave.

505-425-6761

www.hotelelfidel.com

Plaza Hotel

230 Plaza

505-425-3591

www.plazahotel-nm.com

Built in 1882, the Plaza was dubbed “the Belle of the Southwest.” In 1899 Teddy Roosevelt had a reunion of his Rough Riders at the hotel. Although Victorian in style, it has twenty-first-century amenities since its restoration in 1982. There is also the
Landmark Grill
at the Plaza and a resident ghost, Byron T. Mills.

FYI:
More than nine hundred buildings in Las Vegas, New Mexico, are listed on the National Register of Historic Homes. In August, the
People’s Fair
takes place, and the crafts sold are all original and handmade. I am certain this event is fun for all. There is also a fiesta on the Fourth of July and a motorcycle rally at the end of July.

Charlie’s Bakery & Cafe

715 Douglas Ave.

505-426-1921

This is the meeting, greeting, and eating place of Las Vegas. Proprietors Charlie and Elizabeth Sandoval offer absolutely delicious fare and friendly service. The delicious quesadillas were made with homemade tortillas. For dessert I chose a fresh homemade donut that had just come out of the fryer. Charlie’s is a must if you are ever near Las Vegas, New Mexico. Even if you have to make a detour, just go; you will enjoy.

Driving Diva Surprise Factoid:
In 1846, S. W. Kearney delivered a speech in the plaza claiming New Mexico for the United States. In 1880, when the railroad arrived, Las Vegas boomed. The
Duncan Opera House
, a Carnegie library, a Harvey House hotel, an electric street railway, and so much more were built. Many notorious characters were in Las Vegas: Doc Holliday, his girlfriend Big Nose Kate, Billy the Kid, Jesse James, Wyatt Earp, Mysterious Dave Mather, Hoodoo Brown, the Durango Kid, and more! Historian Ralph E. Twitchell said, “Without exception there was no town which harbored a more disreputable gang of desperados and outlaws than Las Vegas, New Mex.”

Fast Forward:
Movies filmed in Las Vegas include
Easy Rider
,
Convoy
,
Speechless
,
Red Dawn
,
No Country for Old Men
,
Vampires
, and
All the Pretty Horses
. Today, Las Vegas, New Mexico, is starting to boom again. Visit soon. Maybe I’ll see you there.

Driving Diva Reminder:
On I-25 North, there are long stretches with nada around. Gas up often. A gas station on this road had a large collection of old cars and funky memorabilia. I cannot find details in my notes. (That doesn’t happen too often.) I hope you find it. It is fun.

Colorado

This
is an outdoorsy state with rustic beauty and cosmopolitan ambiance. Sports abound. Everything is tweaked with touches of the spunky, brazen boldness of the old Wild West and today’s savvy.

Two major interstates lead to Colorado: I-70 and I-25. The following are discoveries I made on different interstates.

I-70 West from Kansas:
If you are going to Denver, Boulder, Vail, Glenwood Springs, or Grand Junction, you stay on I-70. If you are going to Colorado Springs, from I-70 you take Highway 24 and drive south.

To Colorado Springs

I-70 Meets Highway 24

Limon

There are quite a few places in Limon, and it is a good place to stretch, get gas, and so forth. I did not see the sign for Highway 24 right away, but shortly there it was. Watch carefully.

FYI:
Here is a preview of what I saw and now share with you. Though not bustling, Route 24 is a good road and not boring.

Rusty Spur Bunk and Barn

583 S. Forty Rd., Woodland Park

719-687-4260

www.rustyspurbunkandbarn.com

I think that probably quite a few rusty spurs jingled here. There were mobile homes and a sign for correctional facilities. The area doesn’t look very upscale, but there is a Denny’s, a MacDonald’s, an Arby’s, and such. The road is flanked by large farmed fields.

I am not sure I would recommend this road at night to a novice road warrioress. There are not many services, people, or places to stop.

Mathason

Going through Mathason, I saw an antique store too tempting not to visit. There were tables full of all sorts of items in the front by the road. This is the type of place where you would not want to have to do the inventory! Unfortunately, it seems to have closed.

Continuing West on Highway 24

As you
drive on, you pass Simla (population 500) and
Ramah
(population 100), with a tiny sign for a post office. I had seen several small post offices at this point. There are still lots of big farmed fields—or maybe they are now ranches. 44 miles to Colorado Springs.

Sights

Big beautiful house. Lots of bails of hay or similar.

A Day’s Inn is under construction.

Texaco Station.

Sign: BULLS FOR SALE.

Airport. Frontier Charter Academy.

Bulldog Drive-in

Open Seven Days a Week.

Piper & Son’s Insurance

Ace Hardware

Toy Museum

Cadillac Jack’s Antique Store

1001 Fifth St., Calhan

719-347-2000

www.cadillacjacksantiques.com

Labeled “Colorado’s Most Unique Antique Store,” Cadillac Jacks is supposedly rated number one. My steering wheel was pulling, but I did not stop! Mistake! Now that I have researched the shop, oh my! I’m hoping to visit this emporium soon.

Suggestion:
Bring a gift list. I think Cadillac Jack’s might be a one-stop shopping venture.

Gradually, mountains start to loom on the horizon. They are ominous, awesome, and impressive.

Colorado Springs

Driving into
Colorado Springs, you realize that you are approaching a very special area. Not only are all the standard stores, fast fooders, and emporiums here, but you have a feeling that there is more to the area. Colorado Springs covers a large and beautiful area. There is much to see and do in this special place. The following is only a smattering but represents some of the best—and in some instances the most unusual—of my discoveries. There are hotels and resorts of all sizes and calibers, with wonderful ambiances. Here are a few of the most special.

The Broadmoor

1 Lake Ave.

719-577-5775

www.broadmoor.com

Not one but all aspects of the Broadmoor are exceptional. It is easy to see why this property has, for thirty-one years, held the AAA Five Diamond Award. It is almost as awesome as the mountains in the background.

History:
It all began with the unbelievable vision, as well as the luck and timing, of Philadelphia entrepreneur Spencer Penrose. Others had discovered this special area, but Penrose was the force. In 1897 another entrepreneur, Prussian count James Pourtales, had formed the Broadmoor Land and Investment Company and purchased twenty-four hundred acres. He decided to build the Broadmoor Casino as well as a small hotel. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending which side you are on, Pourtales had off-and-on financial problems. In 1916, Spencer Penrose purchased the forty-acre Broadmoor Casino and Hotel together with the adjoining four hundred acres. Contracting the New York architectural firm of Warren and Wetmore, Penrose wished to build the most beautiful resort not just in Colorado but in the world. And so it started and has continued. One must read all about this exceptional place, but for this review, I will pick up the story with my discoveries and experiences at this most special property.

Regardless of how you arrive in Colorado Springs, to get to the Broadmoor, you will be in an automobile. You follow
Circle Drive
until it becomes
Lake Avenue
, and in approximately two miles, you will be face-to-face with this magnificent property.

The Broadmoor is a place you dream of going to and save pennies (more accurately dollar bills) to visit. You will not be disappointed.

Upon your arrival, under the porte cochere, the attendants who greet you are pleasant and professional. Then, as you enter you start to oooh and ahhh. A broad smile covers your face because you realize how lucky you are to be there.

Check-in is friendly and efficient. Wherever on the property you are staying, the well-trained bellman will take you to your accommodations. Despite the size, it is not difficult finding your way around.

From where you enter on the ground level, you can take the escalator to the mezzanine level. There you will find an unobstructed view of the mountains and
Cheyenne Lake
, which is absolutely awesome. The public rooms are furnished in a grand manner. In the corner of one grand room are the knowledgeable, efficient, and most pleasant concierges. Wherever you are on property, you are surrounded by mountain splendor.

Accommodations:
Finding your accommodations is not a problem. If you do get lost, there are phones on each floor by the elevator to call for directions.

Many touches simply add up to good planning. The small table in the hall by your door is so convenient.

The rooms are spacious and beautiful. The appointments are correct, and the attention to detail is impressive. The bedroom designs have been created exclusively for the Broadmoor. The beds are possibly some of the most comfortable in the world, judging from my experiences as well as comments I heard from other guests. If rated, it would be off the charts! Comfortable, crisp, and luxurious is an understatement. Something about these Egyptian cotton sheets changes your bedtime demeanor and your night’s sleep to dreamy. The bathroom is spacious, with a trendy louvered window that looks into the bedroom. I didn’t see one room that was not excellent in every way.

Dining:
Each of the eleven restaurants is a gastronomically magnificent culinary delight. Here are some suggestions:

Breakfast:
You are on your own. Coffee on the porch is idyllic, as you watch the mountains become more vivid and the lake sparkle in the morning light. The free-ranging ducks are excellent companions as they walk by and check you out. These ducks are permanent Broadmoor residents. Lucky ducks!

Lunch:
The
Pool Café
(719-577-5733) is casual, comfortable, and delicious.

Cocktails:
A slow “imbibe” at the
Hotel Bar
is delicious. The atmosphere is just right.

Dinner:
The
Penrose Room
(719-577-5773) is simply the ultimate. Here you will enjoy French cuisine accompanied by live dinner music, and between courses a turn on the dance floor is suggested.

If less formality is preferred, then consider
Charles Court
(719-577-5774), the
Tavern
(719-577-5772), and the
Lake Terrace Dining Room
(719-577-5771). Each is only excellent.

Shopping:
Shopping is challenging. There are fifteen shops. What to buy? What
not
to buy? There is so much, and it’s so hard to choose. Maybe just looking is the answer. Have fun!

Sports:
The three immaculate golf courses are reserved for Broadmoor guests and club members. The courses play their way through the most beautiful scenery, with the Colorado Rockies as a backdrop and the brilliant sky overhead. You can also choose from among tennis, swimming, hiking, fishing, and horseback riding.

Spa:
Choosing the pièce de resistance at this famed property is difficult, but I give an accolade to the
Spa at the Broadmoor
(719-577-5770). Spas are so “in,” but from all that I have visited, this beautiful, ninety-thousand-square-foot spa, opened in 1994, is hard to surpass. In 2004 extensive additions were made. It has fifty-five treatment rooms and over one hundred services for men and women. There are now two $100,000 Silver TAG Serenity Showers with nineteen computerized showerheads for varying strengths. A list of all that is available at the Broadmoor Spa would leave one wondering, Can this really be? It can and is. You may not leave the spa looking like a spa model, but you will feel like one, and the experience will be exceptional. Not only is this spa beautiful in design, but it is managed so professionally and warmly. It is nearly perfect, which is rare, and the prices are sensible.

This 744-room, three-thousand-acre property has continually received the AAA Five Diamond and Forbes (formerly Mobil) Five Star awards. The Broadmoor won the Five Star award for the forty-sixth consecutive year in 2005. In 2006 it was awarded the AAA Five Diamond for the thirty-first year. It has also received the
Wine Spectator
and DiRoNA awards.

A property is nothing without its staff. Here the staff on all levels is superb. I compliment Alison Scott, communications director, for the job she does and the way in which she achieves her goals. She deals with all types (the media, celebrities, guests at special events, and more) and handles even the challenging ones masterfully. I have seen her in action, and she somehow makes everyone feel special. What a talent!

FYI:
Alison’s son is Jeremy Abbot, the Olympic skater.

This most special of mountain properties is almost a city within itself. The Broadmoor is synonymous with exceptional, one-of-a-kind magnificence. Enjoy, even if it is only for a walk through, afternoon tea, a drink, or a meal. You will definitely come away with more than you arrived with—even if it is just the knowledge of this exceptional place.

Old Colorado City

This real
gold rush town was founded in 1859, and by 1862 it was on the decline.

Old Town Guesthouse

115 S. Twenty-sixth St.

719-632-9194

www.oldtown-guesthouse.com

Upon entering you realize that this is a serious, upscale, friendly B&B. Built in 1997, it fits well into historic Old Colorado City, which seems to survive more in legend than in actuality.

There are new innkeepers since I was there, Shirley and Don Wicks. The property is more than the usual bed-and-breakfast. There is even an elevator, which is a luxury and not the norm for B&Bs. Each guest room is named for a flower: Victorian Rose, Indian Paintbrush, Old Town Cactus, to name a few. Depending on the selected room, there are fireplaces, hot tubs, private porches, and steam showers. There is a game room with a pool table as well as an exercise room. Guests’ safety and total comfort is not in question. The attention to privacy is impressive.

My room was well appointed and cozy, with a small private porch. I enjoyed viewing the area, realizing that I was on the site of, or near to, the 1892 city hall, fire station, and jail, as well as the saloons, gambling parlors, and brothels. I doubt if the word “dull” could ever have been applied Old Colorado City.

Breakfast was a delicious feast. You can be private or gregarious. Old Town Guesthouse is but minutes from so many of the fabulous attractions. A visit will be a delightful experience. Enjoy! Reservations are a must!

Manitou Springs (Population Approximately 5,000)

Manitou Springs
(pronounced “man-it-two”) is four miles west of Colorado Springs and sixty-five miles south of Denver. It is absolutely charming, quaint, artsy, and historic, with an elevation of 6,320 feet. Plan to spend some time in Manitou Springs.

During a previous trip to the area, I had enjoyed a delicious lunch with friends on the big porch at the Cliff House as well as a brief tour of the property. It immediately went on my “come back” list. That is just what I did, and I stayed at this attractive property. Put it on your list.

Cliff House at Pikes Peak

306 Cañon Ave.

719-685-3000

www.thecliffhouse.com

The facade is Queen Anne Victorian, and the theme is continued inside on the ground floor. Originally a twenty-room boardinghouse, after a $10 million renovation and continual upgrades, the fifty-five-room Cliff House is current and attractive. The celebrity-themed suites are distinctive. This is a cozy, wonderful property.

I stayed in the Clark Gable Suite on the fifth floor—or more accurately the fourth and a half floor. You take the elevator to the fourth floor and walk a very few steps up to the door of the suite. I have stayed in many unique rooms, but this suite, with the bathtub in the bedroom sitting area—totally open—is near the top of the unique list. I have been told that the open bathtub is popular. Whatever they say . . .

Gable was indeed handsome. There are several large pictures of this debonair, immaculately attired gentleman. They don’t make them like him anymore! One of his pictures is hanging in a sort of unusual spot. His beautiful eyes are on you in your most personal and private moments. Yes, the toilet seat is heated, as is the towel bar, but the washbasin was not well positioned. The air-conditioning was a bit loud, but that was probably only temporary. The attention to detail is evident. The amenities were nice. A tiny amount of fine tuning would help. Even Gable was fine-tuned for his movie roles. Everyone at this property is friendly, efficient, and top-drawer. The dining room is attractive, but being a person who thrives on color, I thought this room needed a little perking up—even just a few fresh, bright flowers on the tables would help. Dinner was fine, and the complimentary breakfast buffet was good. The newspaper is delivered to your room when requested.