Romancing the Roads (14 page)

La Plazuela
(505-995-2334) is a large, colorful restaurant, which I think was originally a courtyard and later enclosed. I found the meals good, except for one. It is a festive spot. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily, and because of its popularity, reservations are recommended.

La Fiesta Lounge
is a casual spot with a light menu and a New Mexican buffet at lunchtime. At night, there is live entertainment and dancing. The sunset views are beautiful from the fifth-floor
Bell Tower Bar
. It is open seasonally. Go and enjoy a drink as you drink in the view. (Oh my!)

When I learned that the general manager, the head of public relations and marketing, and some of the staff have been part of La Fonda for over ten years (some even longer), I was impressed. I think that is a most positive representation for the property.

Restaurants

Plaza Café

54 Lincoln Ave.

505-982-1664

www.thefamousplazacafe.com

This fifty-year-old landmark is deliciously fun. It feels more like an oversized diner with its booths, tables, and long counter. The latter I found to be an ideal place to eat and chat. Everyone is friendly and seems to have a joyous demeanor. The food is good, the staff has never met a stranger, and the prices are right. If you don’t enjoy being at the Plaza Café, then there is something wrong with you. I look forward—again and again—to dining here.

Gabriel’s Restaurant

4 Banana Ln., Hwy. 285

505-455-7000

www.restauranteur.com/gabriels

A short drive from downtown Santa Fe on Old Taos Highway is Gabriel’s, home of some of the best ribs I’ve eaten. The guacamole and Caesar salad are prepared at your table, and the margaritas are made with premium tequila. The atmosphere is very casual, and the food is very excellent. If you’re by yourself, you can sit at the bar for dinner and engage in friendly banter with your neighbors. This is a popular place, so reservations are important.

Café Pasqual’s

121 Don Gasper

505-983-9340

www.pasquals.com

A well-known and popular place located just a block from the Plaza, Café Pasqual’s is small, seating about fifty people. I was there for breakfast. I arrived early (as suggested) because Pasqual’s fills up fast. The reviews are of the best variety. I think I should go back again because I would not rate it quite so highly. The decor and ambiance were great, but breakfast was only okay. Go to this landmark and decide for yourself.

Dinner for Two

106 N. Guadalupe St.

505-820-2075

www.dinnerfortwonm.com

This is just a few minutes from Las Palomas. I did go in to snoop, and what a charming and attractive family-owned restaurant. From all I saw, Chef Andrew Barnes prepares fabulous meals. Lunch is deliciously normal, while dinner he calls “eclectic continental.” Looking at the menu, I noticed that all entrees are served with soup, homemade bread, and salad. Prices were reasonable. Judging from the ambiance and menu, I do not think you will be disappointed dining here.

Other Attractions

Kaune Neighborhood Market

511 Old Santa Fe Trail

505-982-2629

www.kaunes.com

This excellent grocery store also has a real butcher’s shop! The latter you will probably not use, but to find a real butcher’s shop is unique. I enjoyed a fresh sandwich and soup. It was just right for a tired bod and taking a meal to go. Kosher foods are also available. Kaune is pronounced “connie.” Kaune should be cloned.

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

217 Johnson St.

505-946-1000

www.okeeffemuseum.org

Georgia O’Keeffe’s art is unique, and although it may not appeal to you, you should definitely go and see it. Her work makes up an impressive collection. O’Keeffe’s paintings of flowers, as if seen very close up, have become almost a trademark, but there is so much more to this artist.

Born in Wisconsin on November 15, 1887, one of seven children, she never faltered in her artistic ambitions. It was when Alfred Stieglitz, the internationally known photographer, saw her work that Georgia O’Keeffe started to gain prominence.

Stieglitz was her mentor and later became her husband. They lived in New York, taking summer trips to New Mexico. Reading even a brief bio of this unique woman will give you more insight into her art. Until his death in 1946, Stieglitz untiringly promoted his wife’s work. Upon his death Georgia O’Keeffe moved to her beloved New Mexico, living at her
Ghost Ranch
(www.ghostranch.org) and then in Abiquiu. She continued to work almost until her death at the age of ninety-eight.

Consignment Shops

Barkin Boutique

1107 Pen Rd.

505-986-0699

Take the phone number with you as it is a little hard to find, but it’s worth the effort once you find it (at least it was when I was there). Not far from the Plaza, it is just a little out of the way for strangers to find.

Act 2: Vintage to Modern Clothing and Collectibles

839-A Paseo De Peralta

505-983-8585

This is around the block from La Posada. The owners are very friendly and offer a large selection. Their logo is “Affordable Retail Therapy.”

Double Take

320 Aztec St.

505-989-8886

This includes
Double Take at the Ranch, Double Take Vintage, Double Take Santa Fe Pottery, Double Take Baby Store, Double Take Encore 505
(upscale apparel), and
Double Take Santa Fe Pottery
. All of these wonderful stores are combined in one great gathering place.

What a find! It is like a department store. You will do a “double take” when you walk into this fabulous emporium. There are so many items of quality: western, vintage, boutique, ultra upscale, collectibles, kitsch of all kinds, furniture ranging from funky to retro to fine. Then there is the maternity and baby shop and anything else you might want. I like shoes. Here I bought the most unbelievable red satin high-heel sling pumps. The heels are covered with small rhinestones. They are fantastic. They make a statement, and I adore wearing them. Okay, so I don’t walk a lot in them and dance only every so often—but boy are they noticed and admired. Awesome!

Whenever I arrive in Santa Fe, I do not dawdle in getting to this Double Take’s Encore 505. What a wonderful collection of fabulous chic finds. I refer to it as the Neiman Marcus of consignment shops. My trademark is upscale scarves, and at Encore 505 I always find an excellent selection. The owner is a stylish savvy woman who knows her merchandize, maintains high standards, and prices items to sell. It is very hard not to find something you probably never knew you wanted and decide to purchase.

With all Double Take’s divisions, it takes time to discover its treasures. Plan accordingly. Definitely!

Jackalope

2820 Cerrillos Rd.

505-471-8539

www.jackalope.com

If you are in the mood for knickknacks of every variety, as well as wonderful, colorful, unusual oversized items you wish you could take home, then this is the place to visit. Regardless, of your purpose, a visit to this unique shop is a must. There are thousands of items and then some from literally all over the world. Large, small, practical, not so practical, unusual, and ordinary—you will probably find it here at Jackalope. The store is outside of downtown, so you will have to drive, but it is easy to find.

North to Taos

The highway
is almost a straight shot, although there are several ways to head north: 285 to 84 to 68. Check you map.

You will go through
Espanola
and
Chimayo
and pass a lot of fast fooders, some gas stations, and a few other places to stop. I wish I had had time to stop in Chimayo as I hear that
Rancho de Chimayo, a hacienda and a restaurant, is perfect and charming.

Rancho de Chimayo

Ten miles past Espanola on Hwy. 76

505-351-2222

www.ranchodechimayo.com

El Santuario de Chimayo Shrine (www.archdiocesesantafe.org) is an attraction due to its sacred dirt, which, when applied, has healed most miraculously.

Embudo Station

1101 Drive St., Hwy. 68, Embudo

505-852-4707

embudostation.com

Between Santa Fe and Taos on Highway 68, Embudo Station is open from April through October for lunch and dinner. I give this restaurant the subtitle “A Culinary Treasure of Delights.” The tables are staggered on different levels along the banks of the Rio Grande. Music is live, but since you are just a stone’s throw from the highway, I could also hear the passing vehicles.

The menu was full of hard choices. I learned that the smoked meats and fish here are some of the best, and the barbecue is delicious. I am not a beer connoisseur, but from what I tasted and from all reports, Embudo Station’s brewed beers are some of the best. I learned that Embudo Station may have changed ownership. I hope it was a sale and not a demise!

Taos

Taos is
one of those towns that takes time to get to know. Initially, I found it rather unorganized and not upscale. Now that I have learned more about Taos, I want to go back and explore. I hear that bed-and-breakfast Casa de las Chimeneas (House of Chimneys), is excellent.

Casa de las Chimeneas

405 Cordoba Rd.

505-575-4777

Casa has been awarded the prestigious AAA Four Diamond Award. Applause to its owner and innkeeper, Susan Vernon. Also, it should be noted that despite the hot desert summers, there is skiing close by at
Taos Ski Valley.

Taos Ski Valley

PO Box 90

866-968-7386 or 800-776-1111

www.skitaos.org

This is an arty area. I was lucky to be introduced to one of the leading local artists, Walt Gonske. I visited his studio and learned that he had studied in New York, where he was a successful illustrator. He has lived in Taos since the 1970s, and from the look of his vibrant works, you can tell he definitely relates to the area.

El Monte Sagrado

317 Kit Carson Rd.

575-758-3502

www.elmontesagrado.com

Named El Monte Sagrado, meaning “the sacred mountain,” because of its view of Taos Mountain, which is sacred to the people of Taos Pueblo, this $50 million resort is the baby of Virginian Tom Worrell, who spared little in the format and imagining of this oasis. This quiet place incorporates state-of-the-art ecological preservations. Now this unique property is under the aegis of Richard Kessler and is in the Kessler Collection.

The property might take a little getting used to as it is not your usual escape. It is beautifully different, almost exotic. Learning about the powers of the amethyst and tourmaline stones, the land, the space, the waters, and the plants added an entirely new perspective and indulgence to my visit at El Monte Sagrado.

Major expansions have taken place. When I was there, there were thirty-six elegantly appointed suites situated around the sacred circle in the middle of the property; now there are eighty-four. The Morocco Suite was my residence for two days. It was spacious, beautifully appointed, cozy, and romantic. I loved the sofa in front of the fireplace. (I wish it would have fit on top of my car!)

The lighting is a bit dim, and the bedside lights are a little hard to turn off. When I was there, the bathrooms were large, and the towels were humongous; in fact, they were almost too big. One of the most pleasant experiences was getting into my own private hot tub outside the room. I could have spent the night in the hot tub, but unshriveling would have been a morning challenge, I am certain.

Dining
: My dining at
De La Tierra
(575-737-9855) was prior to Kessler’s acquisition. Some of the items I tasted were excellent, and others were not quite so. But then, that can be true at every restaurant. It all depends on the day you are there and the staff. I am certain with the new executive chef and membership in the Kessler Collection, dining is an epicurean delight. The dining room itself is most attractive. The high ceiling, cozy clusters of seating arrangements, soft lighting, and huge, colorful paintings on the high, flat wall surfaces create a special aura and experience.

One must enjoy at least one spa treatment in the unusual and exotic setting of the
Living Spa at El Monte Sagrado
. In my travels, I have experienced a lot of varied treatments, but the “most unique” award goes to what I experienced here: sound and vibrational therapy. “This two-hour session integrates the subtle energy work of Polarity and Cranial Sacral with Acutonics, which is a system that uses tuning forks to balance the head and body with sound vibrations. The goal of this treatment is to interface the physical body . . . with the energetic body, meridians, chakras, and diverse energetic circuits of the body.” Did I feel balanced? Heaven knows. I felt just fine, but then I also felt fine when I arrived. It was an experience!

My total experience at El Monte Sagrado was stellar. You must experience this very exceptional place. I love this quote from their brochure: “Take only memories, leave nothing but footprints” (Chief Seattle). I think that is wonderful.

FYI:
El Monte Sagrado is now part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, although the property is still independently owned. Those belonging to the Marriott’s Club will earn points.

I left Taos on Highway 64 for
Ojo Caliente
. I did not have time to stop, but the
Millicent Rogers Museum is along the way.

Millicent Rogers Museum

1504 Millicent Rogers Rd.

575-758-2462

www.millicentrogers.com

Driving Diva Factoid
: Millicent Rogers was the granddaughter of the founder of Standard Oil. She was a true beauty and fashion icon. From all I have read, she lived life to the fullest. Her attraction to the Taos area was immediate. Not only was she a collector, but she designed some noteworthy jewelry. Her youngest son, the late Paul Peralta-Ramos, left many collections to the Millicent Rogers Museum.

Highway 64 is a good road but rather desolate. I went over the
Rio Grande Gorge Bridge
, which is worth a quick stop and a fast picture.