Read Romancing the Roads Online
Authors: Gerry Hempel Davis
Grand Junction
I-70 out
of Denver takes you to Grand Junction in about four and a half hours. The excellent highway takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery in America. Be advised, however, that winter weather can cause considerable delays on Vail Pass and in the Eisenhower Tunnel. A flashlight or two, blankets, a small shovel, and heavy boots are recommended for the winter traveler. And bottles of water, always.
Grand Junction and the surrounding areas are unpretentious and friendly; the rock formations in canyon country are spectacular. I particularly recommend a drive through
C
olorado National Monument
(970-858-3617, ext. 360; www.nps.gov/colm/index.htm), easily accessible from Grand Junction.
Palisade
Palisade
is within ten minutes of downtown Grand Junction. Take I-70 East.
With all due respect to the Peachtree State, you have not tasted peaches until you have bitten into a fresh peach from Palisade. Their taste is very different from that of any other peach. There are other delicious fruits from the area, so be sure to “fruit up” for delicious car treats. Don’t leave the area without a trip to
Palisade Pride
, now part of Alida’s Fruits.
Alida’s Fruits
3402 C 1/2 Rd.
970-434-8769
www.alidasfruits.com
Don’t you love that address? When I called to find out about Palisade Pride, the phone was answered by Alida herself. What a special conversation! One of the first things I learned was that Alida’s is not really in Palisade but in
East Orchard Mesa
, just a short distance from Palisade and a stone’s throw from the Colorado River. Get directions by calling, or see the map on the company’s website.
After a rather lengthy conversation with Alida about her business and my project, I immediately visited the company website. It turns out that Robert “Farmer Bob” and Alida have grown and sold fruits and vegetables for approximately forty years. Their products are all about quality and freshness. I would bet that their produce gives a whole new meaning to the word “taste.”
Note:
When I called for the final updates, Farmer Bob answered the phone, and after a fun and interesting talk, we said, “Look forward to meeting you.” It is on my agenda.
They produce superb dried fruits prepared without toxins. The dried peach slices and the tart cherries are hand coated with a vanilla cream confection, and the pears and apples are hand dipped in either light or dark chocolate and caramel coatings. These are unbelievably delicious. The fruit flavor remains but with the dab of that yummy white confection—oh my! These are my favorite, but I also exclaim approval for the chocolate fruits.
Call and place an order for these unbelievable fruits, or if you are in the area, a visit to their store is a must. Don’t be surprised if you decide to make yourself a present of these delights.
Enstrom
701 Colorado Ave., Grand Junction
970-683-1000
www.enstrom.com
Enjoy a visit to Enstrom’s, a fifty-year-old family business famous for its almond taffy, which is considered absolutely fantastic. Three generations have maintained the product, and they must be doing something right as Enstrom Candies produces over half a million pounds of almond toffee annually.
Chet Enstrom’s hobby of making handcrafted almond toffee has become an irrefutable “must” for toffee aficionados. I have never read a bad review of these products. Chet’s toffees were in demand by 1959, and by the late 1970s, production had reached over sixty-five thousand pounds. Today, this family business still produces small batches of seventy pounds each by hand. Here’s to hobbies! Check the website for store locations throughout Colorado.
Note:
The above two special shops might solve some Christmas shopping.
Wyoming
I have
crossed the state of Wyoming several different ways, and each is interesting. Wyoming is the ninth-largest state (in square miles) in the United States. Because of its elevation—sixty-seven hundred feet above sea level—the temperatures are cool to cold. Precipitations can and do vary greatly. There is a lot to do in Wyoming, particularly if you like the outdoors.
Wamsutter (Population Approximately 240)
I had
a friend with me on this trip, and seeing a sign for a café, we turned off I-80 to find ourselves on a very dusty road. The wind was blowing, making it hard to see with all the dust. Suddenly, a police car with very bright flashing lights and a noisy siren came up behind me.
“What have I done?” I asked my friend.
“I don’t know,” she replied.
Chief of Police Sergio came up and very nicely told me to get out of the car. He proceeded to tell me that I had neglected to stop at the stop sign. I explained that there was so much dust and wind that I hadn’t seen it, and I didn’t know this area. After I got my warning citation, we talked a bit. He told me about his family and his children’s dirt bike. I told him about my project. We talked some more, and he said, “Use the citation as decoration on your refrigerator,” and with that we said good-bye. Needless to say, I will always remember Wamsutter.
Heading north on I-25, there are several interesting stops.
Cheyenne (Population More Than 50,000)
This substantial
metropolis is a civilized, clean, and friendly western town. It is one of the two largest cities in Wyoming.
Chugwater (Population Approximately 250)
Big rock
formations can be seen all around. There is a
Super 8 Motel
(www.super8.com) and much more!
Chugwater Chili Corporation
210 First St.
1-800-972-4454 (CHILI)
www.chugwaterchili.com
Country Girls Embroidery
1160 State Hwy. 313
307-422-3414
www.countrygirlsembroidery.com
C
hugwater Dog Grooming and Boarding
140 S. Chugwater Hwy.
307-422-3217
Chugwater Soda Fountain
314 First St.
307-422-3222
Not bad for a tiny town. When I was there, town lots sold for $100. Can that be? Maybe my dyslexia left off a zero.
Douglas (Population Approximately 5,000)
This smal
l town has lots of history, but nothing has brought it more notoriety than the birth of the jackalope. Brothers Douglas and Ralph Herrick had studied taxidermy by mail as teenagers. One day, on their return from hunting, they tossed a rabbit carcass into the taxidermy shop, and it slid right between a pair of antlers. Douglas’s eyes brightened as he said, “Let’s mount it that way!” And so was born a rabbit with antlers, to be forever known as the jackalope. These creatures have become part of the west on postcards, statues, pins—you name it. If you have been out west, perhaps you too have bought a souvenir featuring the jackalope, which the state of Wyoming trademarked.
Douglas has also been noted in Norman Crampton’s
The 100 Best Small Towns in America
. In spite of—or perhaps because of—its size, the people of this town work together and strive to make it the best it can be.
Casper (Population Approximately 46,000)
This town
has a
Hampton Inn
(www.hamptoninn.com), which I am pleased to note was managed by a woman when I was there. I found Casper to be a very friendly, nice place to visit. There was a lot going on, and I could see why it had won “best of” in several categories. The roads away from Casper and Cheyenne are strikingly beautiful, but services are few and far between. Even towns marked prominently on the map can consist of little more than a couple of intersections.
Driving Diva Tip:
From Casper I left on I-25, then took Route 26/20. I recommend this drive.
Powder River (Population 50)
Powder River
has a post office.
Hiland (Population 10)
I could
not leave Hiland out! Way back when, it was so named because it was the highest point on the Wyoming section of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway. You can find it on a map, and the next time I am passing by, I plan to stop. It is about fifty miles west of Casper.
Shoshoni (Population Less Than 500)
The road
is long and straight, when all of a sudden you round a bend and see a sign:
Welcome to
Shoshoni
Home of the Wyo. State
Old Time Fiddle Contest
Boysen Lake
Walleye Capital of Wyo.
Shoshoni means
“little snow
.
” At one time, this town had two thousand residents. The
Elkhorn Hotel
was the first business, and then the town grew so fast that people lived in tents. Fire burned the town in 1907 and 1908. Brick buildings replaced the wooden structures. Can you believe that in its heyday, Shoshoni had twenty-three saloons, two banks, two mercantile stores, livery and feed stables, and a newspaper? For its size, Shoshoni had more houses and restaurants than any other town in Wyoming.
Yellowstone Drug Store
502 E. Second St.
307-876-2539
Originally at 127 Main St., the Yellowstone Drug Store moved to its current location in 2009. When I arrived in Shoshoni, this corner emporium was in a white stucco-looking building with several types of windows, including double hung, oval, and triple wide. All styles were outlined in black. The parking lot was almost full. Once inside, I found a genuine soda fountain with swiveling stools. The floor space was full of round tables; the overhead florescent lights had no covers. One sign read, “Please order at the counter,” but the truly revealing sign stated,
In 2001 we dipped 15,339 gallons of ice cream!
One-day record on 5-29-00
727 Shakes & Malts
My $4 shake was very thick and tasty (prices are probably higher now). The wonderful flavor certainly derived in part from the ambiance but also from the large amount of butterfat used in these creations. There are now sixty-two flavors to choose from! Other items besides ice cream shakes, such as souvenir trinkets, are sold at the drug store.
In Shoshoni I also discovered the B&K Shoreline Shop.
B
&K Shoreline Shop
14 Bass Lake Rd.
307-857-0750
Here you will find an RV park, bar, liquor lounge, tackle, and more.
Thermopolis (Population Approximately 3,500)
I did not have time to stop, but . . .
FYI:
The world’s largest mineral hot springs are here at the foothills of
Owl Creek Mountains
and beside the
Big Horn River
. From reliable sources I hear this is a nice place to visit.
Cody
The road
from Shoshoni to Cody is dotted on the atlas (signifying a AAA scenic byway). It is a nice drive. Arriving at the entrance to Cody, you realize you are stepping back into the Old West. It is also obvious that during the summer, there is a lot of tourism.
Cody is special and full of history and attractions that you will be glad to have experienced. Here are my discoveries, experiences, and critiques.
Buffalo Bill’s Cody/Yellowstone Country
For more
information about this area, visit www.yellowstonecountry.org.
Irma Hotel
1192 Sheridan Ave.
307-587-4221
www.irmahotel.com
Named after Buffalo
Bill Cody’s daughter, this wonderful hotel is a step back in time. William F. Cody, also known as Buffalo Bill, was probably the best-known person of his time. He stood in the foreground of important happenings that shaped the American West. In the 1880s he formed
Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show
, which toured the United States and Europe for thirty years. In 1895, Buffalo Bill founded
Cody, Wyoming, and in 1902, he built the Irma Hotel. The Irma’s ornate cherry wood back bar was a gift from Queen Victoria, who had it made in France.
With only forty rooms, this is not a big hotel, but the decor and spirit of its grand early days prevail. You can picture the European nobility who stayed here during their hunting trips. You can also feel the rough-and-ready spirit of showman Buffalo Bill. The hotel is a pleasant mix for all. Although the original hotel was built in 1902, additions were made in 1929 and 1976.
Small touches include lace curtains and tablecloths, floral wall paper, dark-wood furniture, metal
headboards, high ceilings, hanging ceiling lights, and fringed lamp shades. Although you might not choose this wonderful décor for your own home, it provides a nice respite from the traditional.
Dining at the Irma is famous, be it at the
Restaurant Grill
or the
Buffet
. There is an abundance of food, and the prices are good.
The
Cody Gunfighters in Action
fight occurs each afternoon in front of the hotel. Fun!
Claudia Wade and Lee Anne Ackerman, who live in Cody and whose opinions I respect, recommended the following four lodgings.
Chamberlin Inn
1032 Twelfth St.
307-587-0202
www.chamberlininn.com
Agnes Chamberlin transplanted herself from Kansas and opened her first boardinghouse in 1903. She soon after became prominent and instrumental in the life and development of Cody. Her inn was the place to stay in the 1920s and 1930s, and the guest book was impressive, with authors, politicians, movie stars, and tycoons staying in this fine establishment.
Just a stone’s throw from
Main Street
, this twenty-four-unit boutique hotel was totally renovated in 2005 and 2006. All reviews say this is a delightful property. One quote states, “Ernest Hemingway slept here—you should too.”
Cody Legacy Inn and Suites
1801 Mountain View Dr.
307-587-6067
www.codylegacyinn.com
New, rustic, and cozy, this inn has large, inviting rooms. The list of amenities is long, and I particularly like the most appropriate lodgepole pine furniture.
Cody Cowboy Village
203 W. Yellowstone Ave.
307-587-7555
www.thecodycowboyvillage.com
Here you will find luxurious, new log cabins—so western! Featuring the “best beds in the West,” this acclaimed village, near the rodeo grounds and about a mile from the museum (detailed below), is special.
The Cody
232 W. Yellowstone Ave.
307-587-5915
www.thecody.com
This brand-new, high-end hotel is, from all reports, soon to have its ranking stars—when a restaurant is added. In the meantime, it is an ideal place to stay. It is a green-friendly hotel.
Shopping
There are
lots of shops on Cody’s main drag,
Sheridan Avenue
. With everything from western-themed to modern stores, it is fun.
Maurice’s
1101 Sheridan Ave.
307-527-5628
Here in Cody you will find one of the best chain stores where you can always find something sensibly priced. I am still wearing the shoes I purchased there.
The following two shops are operated by the Christ Episcopal Church to serve the Cody community and surrounding area.
Bargain Box
1644 Alger Ave.
307-587-6666
Bargain Box Furniture Store
1537 Beck Ave.
307-587-6333
Sightseeing and Dining
Cassie’s Supper Club
214 Yellowstone Ave.
307-527-5500
www.cassies.com
You cannot be in Cody and not eat at Cassie’s. The real Cassie was a madam. The present-day supper club was once a house of ill repute too. Those days are gone, and Cassie’s now has delicious menu selections, wonderful western atmosphere, and live music every night in the summer for dancing.
Dinner was delicious. I shared a “Tumbleweed Onion” (breaded and deep fried!). I could not believe my ears when told to order prawns in Wyoming, but I did anyway, and they were so good. I split the entrée of prawns with my friend, who ordered steak, and what a steak it was. Everything was, I repeat, delicious. I have to confess that the cowboy sitting at the next table, who kept trying to catch my eye, was not bad for the ego. Cassie’s . . . I plan to return!
Cody Trolley Tours
1192 Sheridan Ave. (Irma Hotel)
307-527-7043
www.codytrolleytours.com
Do not miss taking a Cody Trolley Tour—an hour full of interesting historic tidbits and fun comments. The guides are absolutely terrific. You will learn that the streets are so wide so that wide wagons could turn around. There are three
Sears Catalogue
homes, each originally purchased for $495. You’ll learn how Buffalo Bill Cody and his wife got along and about Annie Oakley, who taught troops how to shoot. The presentation of the town’s history is great.
Cody Stampede Rodeo
1031 Twelfth St.
307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744
www.codystampederodeo.com
One brochure states, “Rodeo Capital of the World, Cody Is Rodeo.” This longest-running rodeo in the United States has been world famous since 1938. In June, July, and August, it takes place every night at 8:30 p.m. Real West, real cowboys, and real wild.
Dan Miller’s Cowboy Music Revue
1171 Sheridan Ave.
307-272-7855
www.cowboymusicrevue.com
After hearing about Dan Miller and his show, I was ready to head for my seat in the audience. I’ll go the next time I’m in Cody. You can bring the whole family to this show. I hear that with each performance, it improves, and each show is wonderful.
Dan grew up on a dairy farm in Indiana, but his penchant for the theatrical world made him leave the cows for commercial endeavors in showbiz. His handsome, large physique (I saw pictures) definitely could find a place in the world of glitz—first Los Angeles and then on to Nashville. He was a natural in every way for TV. Lucky for Cody, Dan and his family moved here and brought his show along.
Buffalo Bill Historical Center
720 Sheridan Ave.
307-587-4771
www.bbhc.org