Romancing the Roads (30 page)

The accommodations were most attractive and the view from the porch outside my room wonderful.

La Costa features a beautiful golf course, many tennis courts, inviting swimming pools, and even a center for children. Eating options include
Legends Bistro
, a pleasant way to start the day sitting outside amid the beautiful scenery, but the breakfast buffet was ordinary. Blackbirds made themselves right at home on my chair and even on the table. (This was not a problem; in fact, it was rather nice.) Since my visit,
BlueFire Grill
has been added, and from what I hear it’s wonderful.

In addition to the Spa at La Costa (800-729-4772), where I enjoyed a very good treatment, La Costa is home to the
Chopra Center for Well-being
(888-424-6772), founded by new age guru Deepak Chopra, “which offers programs in mind body medicine, yoga, self-discovery, emotional wellness, meditation and personal empowerment.”

From all I experienced here at La Costa, KSL Resorts has a gem of a Carlsbad property.

Driving Diva Munch Discovery:
Pei Wei Asian Diner (pronounced “pay way”; www.peiwei.com) uses the freshest ingredients, cooked to order and sensibly priced. Enjoy! Find one and go enjoy.

Out and about in greater Carlsbad and on into Rancho Santa Fe and Encinitas, one finds lots of upscale neighborhoods, small boutique shopping areas, and places to stop and snack.

Sheri Designer Resale

920 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas

858-481-3843

Carolyn’s Designer Resale

1310 Camino Del Mar

760-943-1556

Carolyn’s has top-quality designer clothes at reasonable prices.

Just down the highway is Thrifty Threads.

Thrifty Threads

607 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas

760-753-0028

This is an eclectic, colorful shop.

Dana Point and Points South Again

The following
discoveries are not listed in travel order due to scheduling and reservation availability.

Heading north from Carlsbad, my next destination was Dana Point, specifically the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort.

Driving Diva Humble Confession (a First!):
I had already driven almost six thousand miles, so perhaps white-line fever was finally getting to me. Anyway, I pulled into this impressive entryway to be met by a very efficient doorman and bellman,
the latter of whom whisked my bags away. Upon checking in, I was presented with the news that I did not have a reservation. I quickly took out my confirmation letter and realized that I had just done something totally “blonde”: I was in the lobby of the Ritz, not the nearby St. Regis!

St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort

One Monarch Beach Resort

949-234-3200

www.stregismb.com

There’s one word for the St. Regis: “splendid.” This is not just another impressive property. I felt as if I were in a palatial
Arabian Night
’s setting—though the hotel information says the interior design is Tuscan inspired. The decor begins at the reception desk and continues throughout, with commissioned paintings, formidable mirrors, ceiling murals, and glass art by Dale Chihuly. Yes, it is a museum of sorts, complete with a listing and description of each piece of art.

The view from the lobby is of the huge pool and then the magnificent Pacific Ocean. If you walk to the far end of the pool and look back, the splendor and magnificence of the property are easy to grasp. I found the accommodations everything you would expect—excellent in every way.

There are three pools: the Main Pool, the Lagoon Pool, and a three-lane lap pool at the
Spa Gaucin
fitness center (949-234-3367) in the spa. At the Main Pool you can rent a fully equipped cabana with a private patio, flat-screen TV, DVD video system, CD stereo, fax machine, cordless telephone, ceiling fan, and Internet access including Wi-Fi. Oh my! I could have just stayed there.

The private six-acre beach and
Monarch Bay Club
(949-234-3330) are available only to registered overnight guests and are accessible only by the hotel’s tram.

There are many half- and full-day activities for children, and include studying seashells, building sand castles, riding waves, playing tennis, taking etiquette classes, doing yoga, and more. The experienced babysitters at the St. Regis are also trained in CPR, first aid, and child care.

Dining options at the St. Regis include
Motif
(949-234-3272), which offers a “small plate,” with many (perhaps too many) choices presented rather haphazardly. (I don’t like to have to ask for bread and butter, for example.) Sunday brunch at Motif is expensive with or without champagne, but the restaurant does offer forty different types of pancakes. Reservations are a must. The private
Club 19
(949-234-3685) at the Monarch Beach Golf Links offers breakfast—at which I queried the stated freshness of the orange juice—and a full lunch at the
Lobby Lounge
(949-234-3309) provides seating inside or out with an ocean view. Here you must order this decadent delight: truffle butter popcorn. So good! The
Monarch Bay Club
served me what I can only call a perfect dinner: scallops on a bed of spinach with a thin sauce to start, a Caesar salad, and a steak entrée.

At the tiny shop
Crust
(949-234-3471), you can get breakfast, sandwiches, all sorts of coffee, and other delicious treats if you don’t want to sit in a restaurant.

I have been told the
Stonehill Tavern
(800-722-1543) is only fabulous. It had not opened when I was there.

Then, of course, there is Spa Gaucin (949-234-3367). As you enter, the scent of fresh flowers fills the air, as does the sound of the spa’s three-story waterfall. The toss of a coin into the “Well of Desires,” to symbolize your leaving all cares behind, begins your spa treatment. There are many treatments to choose from, but I enjoyed every split second of an orange frappé lathering. Orange, honey, and yogurt were spread over my body, which was then wrapped in steamy, warm linens. This fruity treatment was then followed by a scalp and face massage and a citrus mist of my entire body, followed by a shower, followed by a cream orange lotion massage. (I’ve gone limp just writing about it.) A very relaxing stay by the pool in the spa area capped off the afternoon. There is a very healthy café at Spa Gaucin.

The town of Dana Point itself is quiet and charming, encompassing only 6.5 square miles with a population of about thirty-five thousand, including Monarch and Capistrano bays. This is obviously a savvy, affluent community.

On the Road

There are
two “on-the-road” gastronomical beacons this Driving Diva adores. One might refer to them as hamburger joints. Call them whatever you want; just know they are deliciously fabulous and not pricey, and their other items are equally good.

In-N-Out

800-786-1000

www.in-n-out.com

This establishment started in 1948 with three very simple criteria: highest-quality foods, friendly service, and sparkling-clean environment. You’ll find hamburgers, cheeseburgers, french fries, milk shakes, Coca-Cola classic and other standard drinks, plus iced tea, coffee, and milk. There are many locations. Look for this delight and park and enjoy.

Ruby’s

30622 Coast Hwy. 101, Laguna Beach

949-497-7829 (RUBY)

www.rubys.com

Ruby’s advertises “the Best Burger in Orange County” and just may be right. Also delicious are the sandwiches, soups, salads, fries, shakes, and other wonderful food. These 1950s-style diners can be found throughout California. They also serve breakfast and lunch/dinner. Ruby’s burgers and sliders have zero trans f
ats. Ruby’s is a must. The atmosphere, decor, and music all blend so well that you might want to get up and Lindy Hop.

Laguna Beach

Due to
its topography and proximity to Hollywood, arty and attractive Laguna Beach was a haven for stars and starlets. Walking shoes are suggested.

San Clemente

Just down
the coast and (in)famous as the residence of President Richard Nixon, San Clemente is also a popular spot for tourists, as the many rental properties along the beach indicate. I managed to find one thrift store, and there are probably more.

Toby’s House Thrift and Gift

110 S. El Camino Real

949-361-7721

www.tobyshouse.com

Proceeds go to help abused women, so of course I bought something.

La Jolla

La Jolla
(pronounced “la hoya,” meaning “the jewel”) is further south. It’s a dressy place. I don’t mean fancy—just neat and not sloppy. There are lots and lots of shops and eateries but few bargains.

Deli-icious: The Locals Deli

1237 Prospect St., Ste. J

858-456-6235

This was a definite find with nothing on the menu over $6 (then). It was delightful and felt very good to sit down.

Coronado

The San Diego
–Coronado Bay Bridge proves the old adage that “getting there is half the fun.” This spectacular, two-mile span is, at one point, 243 feet high to allow large ships to pass underneath.

Driving Diva Tip:
Try to avoid the bridge during rush hour. I made the mistake of heading to the island at 5 p.m. and got stuck for longer than I wanted.

Just a bridge away from the hustle and bustle of San Diego, Coronado is thirteen square miles of paradise, and the weather is about as perfect as it gets.

There are lots of wonderful shops and places to eat in Coronado, especially along Orange Avenue, Coronado’s main street. A favorite of mine is
Stretch’s Café.

Stretch’s Café

943 Orange Ave.

619-435-8886

www.stretchscafe.com

Billing itself as the “healthy alternative to fast food,” Stretch’s is small, cozy, deliciously friendly, and sensibly priced.

Hotel Del Coronado

1500 Orange Ave.

619-435-6611

www.hoteldel.com

The centerpiece of Coronado is this historic and grand hotel. The rare and extraordinary Del Coronado has something for everyone and in every price range.

Every time I’ve arrived, I’ve been greeted promptly by cordial, able attendants. Walking into the Del, whether it is your first or umpteenth time, is impressive and breathtaking. Keeping the 688 rooms organized is a mighty task, but the staff manage brilliantly. The accommodation options include the historic Victorian Building (my preference), and the newer Ocean Towers and California Cabana. Regardless where you stay at the Del, you are just a short walk from practically everything.

Since its opening, the Del has hosted presidents and other dignitaries, and Hollywood has come calling for more than just an overnight stay. The hotel was the set for the 1958 Billy Wilder movie
Some Like It Hot
,
starring Marilyn Monroe, Jack Lemmon, and Tony Curtis, as it was for the lesser-known 1980 film
The Stunt Man
,
starring Peter O’Toole and Barbara Hershey.

Dining at the Del is consistently good, whether you have an artichoke-spinach dip, peppered shrimp, or a salad. At
Sheerwater
(619-522-8490), an exquisite setting for dining, dress is casual but correct. Sheerwater is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, and light fare throughout the afternoon. The
Babcock & Story Bar
, named for the hotel’s founders, is attractive and inviting. The award-winning
Crown Room
(619-522-8490) serves a famous Sunday brunch. Be sure to learn the construction details of this unique room.
1500 Ocean
(619-522-8490), beautiful surroundings and upscale dining, has been receiving superb reviews. Several outside eating stops include the
Su
n Deck Bar & Grill, Splash Bar & Deli
, and
Cabana Bar
.

The Del also boasts a collection of pricey but wonderful shops. I suggest you visit
Del Coronado
Jewels
and get a crown (symbol of the Del) pin or pendant as a souvenir.

The gardens throughout the grounds are exquisite, as is the wide beach and outdoor pool.

The latest addition at the Del is
Be
ach Village
(866-433-3030, www.delbeachvillage.com). You can have your own oasis—your home away from home—at one of the beautifully appointed and totally equipped villas. Mesmerizing and magnificent is the view of the vast Pacific Ocean. Call for details.

Note:
KSL Resorts is at the helm of the Del and other exceptional properties, the Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia, and Carlsbad’s La Costa Resort and Spa.

Loews Coronado Bay Resort

4000 Coronado Bay Rd.

619-424-4000

www.loewshotels.com/CoronadoBayResort

I have not (yet) stayed at this special property, but I had a delightful evening and superb dinner at Azzura Point Restaurant, which is now
Mistral
. I enjoyed probably one of the best veal chops I’ve ever had. In my experience, chops—even those prepared by the best of chefs—are more often than not served dry as dust. Not here, at least not this night. Dessert consisted of a delicious dollop of ginger ice cream. I was told all ice creams are homemade on property, and the ginger is from the garden. Chef Patrick Ponsaty is diligent about using one of the eighty-five herbs grown on property whenever appropriate to the dish. One of San Diego’s favorite sommeliers, Kurt Kirschenman, will answer any of your wine questions. This is a must-see property. I am told that the boat marina and other sporting facilities are state-of-the-art and the accommodations exceptional.

In and around San Diego

Pacific Beach

This local
destination boasts on its website, “It’s all right here . . . California cuisine, wheel alignments and spine adjustments all in one place.” However, many of the suggested discoveries had either moved, gone out of business, or were really quite frumpy. Alas, Chamber of Commerce, I’ll give it another try next time I’m in the area, but I did enjoy that tagline.

Gaslamp Quarter (a National Historic District)