Read The New Persian Kitchen Online
Authors: Louisa Shafia
The New Persian Kitchen (23 page)
Step 2:
Line the skillet with the potatoes
Line the skillet with the potatoes
Heat a deep, 10-inch cast-iron skillet or enamel paella pan over low heat for a few minutes. Add
the oil (if your skillet is bigger than 10 inches, add an additional 2 tablespoons oil). Line the skillet with the potato slices. Fit in as many as you can in a single layer, but make sure that they are all lying flat. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. The potatoes should be golden on the first side. Flip the potatoes and season with a pinch of sea salt.
the oil (if your skillet is bigger than 10 inches, add an additional 2 tablespoons oil). Line the skillet with the potato slices. Fit in as many as you can in a single layer, but make sure that they are all lying flat. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. The potatoes should be golden on the first side. Flip the potatoes and season with a pinch of sea salt.
Step 3:
Make the tahdig layer
Make the tahdig layer
Spread the 2 cups reserved rice evenly over the potatoes, and pack it down tightly with an offset spatula or large wooden spoon. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon sea salt over the rice.
Step 4:
Shape the rice into a pyramid and cook
Shape the rice into a pyramid and cook
Add the rest of the rice and shape it into a pyramid. Poke several holes in the rice with a chopstick to let steam escape. Cover and turn the heat up to medium-high. Cook the rice for 10 minutes, then turn down the heat to very low and place a clean dish towel or
damkoni
(see opposite) under the lid to catch condensation, and cover the pan tightly. If you have a flame tamer, put it between the burner and the bottom of the skillet to disperse the cooking heat. Cook for 50 minutes.
damkoni
(see opposite) under the lid to catch condensation, and cover the pan tightly. If you have a flame tamer, put it between the burner and the bottom of the skillet to disperse the cooking heat. Cook for 50 minutes.
Step 5:
Separate the rice from the tahdig and serve
Separate the rice from the tahdig and serve
Lift the lid from the pan. There will be condensation trapped under the lid, so avoid tilting it over the rice and inadvertently pouring the steam water back in. Gently scoop the rice onto a serving platter, making sure not to disturb the
tahdig
at the bottom. Loosen the sides of the
tahdig
with a butter knife and flip it onto a plate, or remove from the pan with an offset spatula. Serve whole or broken in pieces.
tahdig
at the bottom. Loosen the sides of the
tahdig
with a butter knife and flip it onto a plate, or remove from the pan with an offset spatula. Serve whole or broken in pieces.
Cheating with Tahdig
If the idea of cooking perfectly fluffy rice while simultaneously making crunchy, golden
tahdig
on the bottom of the very same pot is too intimidating, never fear. You can always cheat and make the
tahdig
after you’ve cooked the rice. I sometimes cook a pot of
Saffron Rice
, and then make a couple of cups of it into
tahdig
. Because one recipe of Saffron Rice makes just over 7 cups of rice, there’s plenty to spare for
tahdig
.
“Faux” Tahdigtahdig
on the bottom of the very same pot is too intimidating, never fear. You can always cheat and make the
tahdig
after you’ve cooked the rice. I sometimes cook a pot of
Saffron Rice
, and then make a couple of cups of it into
tahdig
. Because one recipe of Saffron Rice makes just over 7 cups of rice, there’s plenty to spare for
tahdig
.
Makes one 10-inch disk of tahdig
3 tablespoons refined coconut oil, ghee, or extra-light olive oil
2 cups cooked basmati rice
Sea salt
Line a baking sheet with paper towels or clean dish towels. Heat a deep, 10-inch cast-iron skillet or enamel paella pan over medium-high heat. Add the oil, and then add the rice. Spread the rice evenly over the bottom of the pan, and pack it down tightly with an offset spatula or large wooden spoon. Sprinkle a pinch of salt over the rice. Place a clean dish towel or
damkoni
(see opposite) under the lid to catch condensation, and cover the pan tightly. Cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Turn down the heat to its lowest setting and cook for another 10 minutes.
damkoni
(see opposite) under the lid to catch condensation, and cover the pan tightly. Cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Turn down the heat to its lowest setting and cook for another 10 minutes.
Lift the lid from the skillet. There may be condensation trapped under the lid, so avoid tilting it over the rice and inadvertently pouring the steam water back in. Loosen the
tahdig
with an offset spatula or a butter knife, and flip it onto the towel-lined baking sheet. Let it rest for
a minute or two so the towels absorb the extra cooking oil. Flip it onto a plate and season with a little salt. Serve whole or broken into pieces.
tahdig
with an offset spatula or a butter knife, and flip it onto the towel-lined baking sheet. Let it rest for
a minute or two so the towels absorb the extra cooking oil. Flip it onto a plate and season with a little salt. Serve whole or broken into pieces.
Tahdig
Tips and Tricks
Tips and Tricks
Making perfect
tahdig
requires practice and patience, and most people end up with
tahdig
that is either burnt or floppy on the first few tries. Following the pointers below will go a long way toward helping you achieve perfectly crisp and golden
tahdig
.
tahdig
requires practice and patience, and most people end up with
tahdig
that is either burnt or floppy on the first few tries. Following the pointers below will go a long way toward helping you achieve perfectly crisp and golden
tahdig
.
Preheat the skillet and cooking oil.
Preheating the skillet means that when the rice, lavash, or potatoes hit the pan, they immediately start to form a crust, instead of just soaking up the oil. Heat the skillet over low heat for 3 minutes, and then add the oil, followed by the rice. That way, the oil is hot but not smoking.
Preheating the skillet means that when the rice, lavash, or potatoes hit the pan, they immediately start to form a crust, instead of just soaking up the oil. Heat the skillet over low heat for 3 minutes, and then add the oil, followed by the rice. That way, the oil is hot but not smoking.
Start high, go low.
Cook the
tahdig
over medium-high heat in the first stage of cooking. If the heat is too low, the
tahdig
won’t become crisp. High heat also helps the
tahdig
to absorb the oil. After cooking the
tahdig
over medium-high heat for the first 8 minutes, turn the heat down to very low. Use a flame tamer to make it even lower. This stage serves to dry out the rice, as the steaming process draws the moisture out and into the fabric around the pot lid.
Cook the
tahdig
over medium-high heat in the first stage of cooking. If the heat is too low, the
tahdig
won’t become crisp. High heat also helps the
tahdig
to absorb the oil. After cooking the
tahdig
over medium-high heat for the first 8 minutes, turn the heat down to very low. Use a flame tamer to make it even lower. This stage serves to dry out the rice, as the steaming process draws the moisture out and into the fabric around the pot lid.
Sneak a peek.
Toward the end of cooking, check to see if the
tahdig
is ready by pulling up the rice with an offset spatula or butter knife and peeking underneath. If it looks pale, keep cooking. If it looks dark, you can break off a small piece and check the texture and taste before taking it out of the pan.
Toward the end of cooking, check to see if the
tahdig
is ready by pulling up the rice with an offset spatula or butter knife and peeking underneath. If it looks pale, keep cooking. If it looks dark, you can break off a small piece and check the texture and taste before taking it out of the pan.
Keep it hot.
Keep the
tahdig
on low heat until you’re ready to serve. If it sits in the pan and cools off it will lose its crisp texture and become rubbery. Ideally, you want to serve it as soon as it’s ready.
Keep the
tahdig
on low heat until you’re ready to serve. If it sits in the pan and cools off it will lose its crisp texture and become rubbery. Ideally, you want to serve it as soon as it’s ready.
Special
Equipment for Making Tahdig
Equipment for Making Tahdig
Damkoni, or towel.
A
damkoni
is a padded cloth that fits over the lid of the rice pot to catch condensation as the rice steams. This quirky Persian invention helps the rice to dry out and to become fluffy and separated, as opposed to mushy and wet. A
damkoni
looks like a shower cap, and the ones made in Iran come in the most unlikely bright colors and patterns. But it makes a big difference in getting a good result with
tahdig.
A
damkoni
is a padded cloth that fits over the lid of the rice pot to catch condensation as the rice steams. This quirky Persian invention helps the rice to dry out and to become fluffy and separated, as opposed to mushy and wet. A
damkoni
looks like a shower cap, and the ones made in Iran come in the most unlikely bright colors and patterns. But it makes a big difference in getting a good result with
tahdig.
As a substitute for a
damkoni
, fold up a couple of clean dish towels or paper towels and fit them under the lid, or tie an apron around the lid and fasten it tightly at the top with the strings. When using kitchen towels, make sure they are well out of the way of the burner to avoid a fire.
damkoni
, fold up a couple of clean dish towels or paper towels and fit them under the lid, or tie an apron around the lid and fasten it tightly at the top with the strings. When using kitchen towels, make sure they are well out of the way of the burner to avoid a fire.
Flame Tamer.
A flame tamer disperses the heat from the burner, making it much less likely that your
tahdig
will burn or cook unevenly. Once you turn down the heat and fit the
damkoni
or towel under the skillet lid, slide the flame tamer between the flame and the bottom of the skillet. The old-fashioned tin flame tamers, or simmer rings, are well made and inexpensive.
A flame tamer disperses the heat from the burner, making it much less likely that your
tahdig
will burn or cook unevenly. Once you turn down the heat and fit the
damkoni
or towel under the skillet lid, slide the flame tamer between the flame and the bottom of the skillet. The old-fashioned tin flame tamers, or simmer rings, are well made and inexpensive.
Deep Cast-Iron Skillet, or Enameled Paella Pan.
Although most people cook
tahdig
using a nonstick pot or pan, I use a deep cast-iron skillet or an enameled paella pan. In fact, cast iron is
more
nonstick than Teflon. I’ll be honest: I’m adamant about avoiding nonstick cooking surfaces, which are made with dangerous chemicals proven to be toxic. I heartily encourage you to ditch your nonstick pans—whether they’re peeling or not—and embrace cast iron.
Although most people cook
tahdig
using a nonstick pot or pan, I use a deep cast-iron skillet or an enameled paella pan. In fact, cast iron is
more
nonstick than Teflon. I’ll be honest: I’m adamant about avoiding nonstick cooking surfaces, which are made with dangerous chemicals proven to be toxic. I heartily encourage you to ditch your nonstick pans—whether they’re peeling or not—and embrace cast iron.
Offset Metal Spatula.
This is especially handy for packing down the rice to make your
tahdig
layer tight and compact. It also makes it easy to lift up the
tahdig
without breaking it to check if it’s done and to remove it from the pan.
This is especially handy for packing down the rice to make your
tahdig
layer tight and compact. It also makes it easy to lift up the
tahdig
without breaking it to check if it’s done and to remove it from the pan.
albalu polo
In late June, sour cherries make a brief appearance at American farmers’ markets. In Iran, too, come June tangy
albalu
are enjoyed raw, cooked, and preserved, although they’re just as likely to be cooked with meat and grains as they are with sweets. If you don’t have fresh sour cherries, look for bottled ones in Polish, Russian, or other eastern European food shops. Bottled sour cherries are preserved in sugar syrup, so taste them for sweetness and adjust the recipe accordingly.
albalu
are enjoyed raw, cooked, and preserved, although they’re just as likely to be cooked with meat and grains as they are with sweets. If you don’t have fresh sour cherries, look for bottled ones in Polish, Russian, or other eastern European food shops. Bottled sour cherries are preserved in sugar syrup, so taste them for sweetness and adjust the recipe accordingly.
serves 6 to 82 cups white basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 1 hour
3 cups water
Sea salt
2 tablespoons butter or unrefined coconut oil, at room temperature
1 pound fresh sour cherries, pitted
⅓ cup honey
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 cup slivered or coarsely chopped almonds, toasted
Drain the rice and rinse it under cold water until the water runs clear. (Try making
tahdig
! Bring a large pot three-quarters full of salted water to a boil, and follow the instructions on in
How to Make Tahdig
for making one of four styles of
tahdig.
You’ll rejoin this recipe in the next to last paragraph, and mix the sour cherries and almonds with the rice just as if you’ve been following this recipe all along. Good luck!)
tahdig
! Bring a large pot three-quarters full of salted water to a boil, and follow the instructions on in
How to Make Tahdig
for making one of four styles of
tahdig.
You’ll rejoin this recipe in the next to last paragraph, and mix the sour cherries and almonds with the rice just as if you’ve been following this recipe all along. Good luck!)
In a stockpot, bring the water to a boil with a pinch of salt. Add the rice, return to a boil, then turn down the heat to its lowest setting. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice rest for 5 minutes, then dot with the butter and fluff with a fork. The rice should be dry and fluffy.
While the rice cooks, put the cherries in a skillet and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to low, add the honey, cinnamon, cardamom, and 1 teaspoon salt, and simmer for 15 minutes, until the cooking liquid is very thick.
Scoop the rice into a large bowl. Fold in the cherries and their cooking liquid, the almonds, and the saffron. Season with salt and serve warm.
rice with favas and dillbaghali polo
This herb-flecked rice is perfect for spring, when dill and fava beans are in season. Use fresh favas, or substitute frozen lima beans, which are always available. This recipe calls for copious amounts of dill, and cleaning that amount of fresh herbs can be intimidating. I learned to make this dish by watching my cousin Mahin, however, and I was overjoyed when I saw that she did not pull the fronds from the dill stems, but merely chopped the stems finely and threw them into the rice. The flavor of this rice is especially well suited to making
Rice with Potato Tahdig
.
Rice with Potato Tahdig
.
serves 4 to 63 cups water
Sea salt
2 cups white basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 1 hour
2 tablespoons butter or unrefined coconut oil, at room temperature
1 pound fresh fava beans, shelled and peeled, or 1 pound frozen lima beans, thawed
2 tablespoons ghee or grapeseed oil
2 cups tightly packed minced fresh dill
Drain the rice and rinse under cold water until the rinse water runs clear. (Try making
tahdig
! Bring a large pot three-quarters full of salted water to a boil and follow the instructions starting on in
How to Make Tahdig
for making one of four styles of
tahdig.
You’ll rejoin this recipe in the next to last paragraph, and mix the favas and dill with the rice just as if you’ve been following this recipe all along. Good luck!)
tahdig
! Bring a large pot three-quarters full of salted water to a boil and follow the instructions starting on in
How to Make Tahdig
for making one of four styles of
tahdig.
You’ll rejoin this recipe in the next to last paragraph, and mix the favas and dill with the rice just as if you’ve been following this recipe all along. Good luck!)
In a stockpot, bring the water to a boil with a pinch of salt. Add the rice, return to a boil, then turn down the heat to its lowest setting. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice rest for 5 minutes, then dot with the butter and fluff with a fork. The rice should be dry and fluffy.
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