The New Persian Kitchen (20 page)

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Authors: Louisa Shafia

BOOK: The New Persian Kitchen
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Pull out the chicken pieces with tongs and cut them in halves or thirds. Put a few pieces of chicken on each plate, along with plenty of sauce. Garnish with the pomegranate seeds, and serve.
Vegetarian Option
Substitute two 8-ounce packages tempeh, halved, for the chicken, and sear in 3 tablespoons of oil for 3 to 4 minutes per side. Cook the onions in 2 to 3 tablespoons oil instead of the chicken fat, and dice the tempeh before serving.

Barley Stew with Lamb and Rhubarb

barley stew with lamb and rhubarb
I first tasted this stew at a Russian
banya
(bathhouse) in Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, after an evening of
schvitzing.
It hails from Georgia, the former Soviet country on the Black Sea whose cuisine has many similarities to Iranian food. Traditionally this stew gets a blast of flavor from sour plum paste, a specialty of the region, but I chose to substitute rhubarb, taking my inspiration from a classic Persian rhubarb stew. Marinate the lamb overnight, or the meat will be bland. Add the rhubarb at the very end, and stop cooking before the rhubarb falls apart, or the flavor will be lost.
serves 6 as a main course
2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
MARINADE
1½ cups dry white wine
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon allspice
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons tomato paste
STEW
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
4 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1½ cups dry white wine
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon allspice
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons tomato paste
¾ cup pearled barley
6 cups water
1 pound rhubarb stalks, finely diced
¾ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, for garnish
1 bunch cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, or a mix, coarsely chopped, for garnish
Red pepper flakes, for garnish
Soak the lamb in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain and dry thoroughly. Place the lamb in a baking dish and season with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. To make the marinade, whisk together the wine, garlic, allspice, coriander, and tomato paste. Pour the marinade over the lamb and cover. Marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
Drain the lamb. In a large stockpot, soften the onions in the oil over medium heat for a few minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and lightly brown the lamb all over for about 5 minutes. Add the wine, garlic, allspice, coriander, tomato paste, and the barley. Add the water and bring to a boil; then lower the heat and simmer, covered, for about 1½ hours, until the barley and lamb are tender.
Add the rhubarb and cook for 15 minutes, until the rhubarb is just soft but the pieces are still intact. Season with salt and pepper. Splash each serving with 2 tablespoons lemon juice, a scattering of herbs, and a pinch of red pepper flakes.
Vegetarian Option
Replace the lamb with diced meaty mushrooms such as portobello, morel, or hen-of-the-woods (maitake), and prepare them the same way as the lamb.
seared chicken with peaches
khoresh-e hulu
Orange-gold peaches are a sweet Silk Road treasure that traveled from China to Iran more than two thousand years ago, and they’re seen today in the glittering and fragrant display cases of Persian dried fruit stores. Make this dish in summer when peaches are abundant, or substitute plums or pears in the fall.
serves 6
2 pounds skinless chicken legs or breasts
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 yellow onion, diced
1 pound ripe peaches, peeled and sliced into 1-inch wedges
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon saffron,
ground and steeped
in 1 tablespoon hot water
2 cups water, simmering
Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add 3 tablespoons of the oil to the pan. Add the chicken and sear 6 to 7 minutes per side, until well browned, then transfer to a plate.
In the same skillet, cook the onion over medium-high heat in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil for about 10 minutes, just until they start to brown. Add the peaches, turmeric, cinnamon, lemon juice, lemon zest, saffron, and water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and return the chicken to the pan. Simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes; then uncover and simmer for 10 minutes to thicken. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Pull out the chicken pieces with tongs and cut the boneless pieces in half or in thirds. Put a few pieces of chicken on each plate along with several peach slices and plenty of sauce.
Vegetarian Option
Substitute tempeh or firm tofu for the chicken. If using tofu, drain the tofu and press it under a heavy weight for 1 hour, in order to press out as much water as possible. Before cooking, cut the tofu into slabs 1 inch thick, or cut the tempeh in half to form 2 squares. You may need to use a little more oil for searing the tempeh or tofu. Before serving, cut the tempeh or tofu into thirds.

Green Herb and Kidney Bean Stew

green herb and kidney bean stew
ghormeh sabzi
This green stew studded with red kidney beans is one of the most famous in Persian cuisine. Although it’s usually made with chicken, it works surprisingly well with tofu, which is frozen, thawed, and baked here to give it a meaty texture. Start this recipe the day before you plan to serve it, so the tofu has time to freeze through and then defrost. If you prefer to use chicken, follow the instructions in the
Variation
below.
serves 4
1 (14-ounce) package firm tofu
5 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups cooked kidney beans (one 15-ounce can), rinsed and drained
2 cups vegetable or chicken stock, boiling
½ pound spinach, coarsely chopped
1 cup tightly packed, coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 cup tightly packed, coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup thinly sliced scallions
2 dried limes, soaked in hot water to cover for 15 minutes
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Extra-virgin olive oil, for finishing
Drain the tofu and cut it into 1-inch-thick slabs. Freeze until solid, about 6 hours, then defrost in the refrigerator overnight. Squeeze the tofu slices to remove excess water.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with a nonstick baking mat.
In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the grapeseed oil, 1 teaspoon salt, a few grinds of pepper, and the turmeric. Add the tofu and toss to coat it in the seasoning. Spread the tofu on the baking sheet and bake for 50 minutes, flipping the slabs once halfway through. The tofu should be golden and springy. Let cool and dice.
While the tofu bakes, caramelize the onion. Heat a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat and add the remaining 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, followed by the onion. Brown the onion for 10 minutes, until it starts to darken, then cook slowly over low heat for
about 30 minutes, until it is dark brown and about half its original volume. Add the garlic, beans, tofu, and stock and bring to a boil; then turn down the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.
Add the spinach in large handfuls, adding more as each batch wilts, then stir in the herbs and scallions. Pierce the limes and add them to the stew along with their soaking water. Simmer for 20 minutes. The herbs should be tender but still bright green. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Turn off the heat and let the stew rest for 15 minutes. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and serve.
Variation
Heat a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil to the pan. Lightly salt 2 pounds skinless chicken breasts and legs. Add the chicken to the skillet and sear for 6 to 7 minutes per side, until well browned, then transfer to a plate. Add the chicken to the stew along with the beans.
persian gulf–style spicy tamarind fish stew
ghaliyeh mahi
If you think this hot, tangy fish with cilantro resembles something you might eat in Mexico, you have the right idea. Though tamarind plays a significant role in Mexican food, it originally hails from across the globe in Africa—that’s how far and wide global cuisine has traveled! If you don’t like cilantro, you can substitute a combination of parsley and mint instead. I recommend using serrano chiles, but Anaheims or jalapeños will taste terrific, too.

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