In this chapter, I’ll walk you through a sampling of meat and fish dishes inspired by different regions of Iran. You’ll find a variety of options here, including two elegant renditions of whole roasted fish: one topped with
brilliant slices of
caramelized oranges
, the other
stuffed with nuts and herbs
. For the adventurous eater who is ready for full cultural immersion, there is a recipe for
Grilled Liver with Cumin, Garlic, and Fresh Basil
, a popular Iranian street food. Even if you
think
you don’t like liver, buy some fresh, organic chicken or even lamb liver and try making this just once!
And of course, there are kebab recipes for lamb, chicken, and fish, all of which have delicate marinades made from aromatic ingredients like pomegranate syrup, sumac, and turmeric. When preparing
kebabs, keep in mind the Persian tradition of serving them with flatbread, because it comes in handy for pulling the grilled meat from the skewer without getting your hands messy. If you’re using wooden or bamboo skewers, as opposed to metal, soak them in salty water for a couple of hours before grilling to prevent them from burning. Add enough salt so that the soaking water tastes like briny seawater—this will help to flavor the kebabs from the inside. Fire up your grill, stove, or oven, and let’s get cooking!
chile-
saffron fish kebabs
kebab-e mahi
In Iran, fish dishes are plentiful in the north near the Caspian Sea. But they take on a different character entirely in the south of the country near the Persian Gulf, where the cuisine is influenced by the flavors of nearby Africa, where tamarind originates, and India, Iran’s hot chile–loving neighbor to the east. This recipe calls for relatively mild jalapeño chiles, but you can use any hot chile that you prefer—try habaneros or sweet red Anaheims. The natural oils in chiles can cling to your hands and burn if you rub your eyes, so wash your hands well after cutting them (you may even want to wear gloves when working with very hot varieties).
serves 4
1½ pounds skinless, firm-fleshed fish, such as Pacific halibut, striped bass, or albacore tuna, cut into 1-inch pieces
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ yellow onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup plain yogurt (not thick)
Cilantro, for garnish
Sumac, for garnish
If using wooden or bamboo skewers, soak them in salty water for a couple of hours before grilling. Thread the fish onto skewers ¼ inch apart, leaving 2 inches of space at the end. Season the kebabs with salt and pepper, and place them on a rimmed baking sheet.
Whisk together the onion, garlic, chiles, lime juice, saffron, and yogurt, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the kebabs, and toss gently.
Prepare a hot grill.
Oil the grill, lay the skewers on the grill, and cook for 3 minutes per side, until the fish is just cooked through in the center. Serve, garnished with cilantro and sumac.
Vegetarian Option
Use extra-firm tofu in place of the fish. Before cooking, drain the tofu and press it under a heavy weight for 1 hour, to press out as much water as possible. Let the kebabs marinate in the sauce for 1 hour before grilling.
Grilled Shrimp with Lime Powder and Parsley–Olive Oil Sauce
grilled
shrimp with lime powder and parsley–olive oil sauce
This rustic Turkish-style parsley sauce unlocks not only the flavor of seafood but of grains, vegetables, and chicken, too. The shrimp get a dose of intense citrus flavor from bittersweet dried lime powder. If you have dried limes, you can grind them in an electric spice grinder to make your own lime powder. You can also substitute the zest and juice of 2 to 3 fresh limes, if necessary. Use a good-quality extra-virgin olive oil in the sauce, and serve with rice or another grain.
serves 4
2 cups tightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
6 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
¾ cup good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
2 teaspoons dried lime powder
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 cups warm freshly cooked rice or whole grain, such as millet, quinoa, or freekeh
Coarsely chop the parsley and place it in a large bowl with the garlic, lemon juice, and extra-virgin olive oil, and stir to combine. Season to taste by adding ½ teaspoon salt at a time, until the flavors pop. Add pepper to taste.
Prepare a hot grill.
In a large bowl, whisk together the lime powder, grapeseed oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Add the shrimp and toss to coat evenly. Grill the shrimp for 5 to 6 minutes on each side, until they’re opaque in the middle.
Spoon the shrimp over the rice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with the parsley sauce and serve immediately.
Vegetarian Option
In place of the shrimp, use tempeh cut crosswise into bars ¾ inch wide. Increase the amount of grapeseed oil to 3 tablespoons, and season the tempeh to taste with salt and pepper before grilling.
lamb
meatballs with mint and garlic
kufteh
Persians make all kinds of
kufteh,
or “pounded meat” delicacies, from plate-size, cinnamon-scented
Tabrizi
meatballs to small curried meatballs made with chickpea flour and dill.
Kufteh
are made with rice, which gives them a tender, fluffy texture. Before making the meatballs, it’s important to soak the rice for 1 hour; otherwise, the grains won’t cook through. You can combine the meat and seasonings a day before cooking, or you can cook the meatballs completely the day before and warm them in the oven the next day. Serve with
Torshi
(
Mixed Vegetable Pickle
), flatbread, yogurt, and a light salad, such as the
Shaved Celery Root and Pomegranate Salad
.
makes about 30 meatballs
MEATBALLS
½ cup basmati rice, soaked in cold water for 1 hour
4 cloves garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons dried mint, or 1 cup loosely packed fresh spearmint
½ large yellow onion
1 pound ground turkey, lamb, or beef
1 egg, whisked
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Grapeseed oil, for browning the meatballs
SAUCE
Grapeseed oil, for frying, if needed
½ large yellow onion, diced
½ cup tomato paste
1 teaspoon dried dill weed
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 cups water, boiling
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
To make the meatballs, rinse the rice under cold water until the water runs clear, then shake off as much excess water as possible. In a food processor, combine the rice with the garlic, mint, and onion, and pulse until coarsely ground. Transfer to a large bowl and add the meat, egg, salt, and pepper. Mix well. The mixture should be pliable and easy to shape. You can cover the mixture and refrigerate for 24 hours, if desired.
Form the meat into balls the size of a heaping tablespoon. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add enough oil to coat the bottom. Working in batches, cook the meatballs for 6 to 8 minutes, until browned on all sides, then transfer to a baking sheet.
To make the sauce, add a little oil to the same skillet, if needed, and the onion. Cook the onion over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Stir in the tomato paste, dill, cinnamon, turmeric, and water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and season to taste with salt and pepper. Delicately place the meatballs in the sauce. Cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes, until the meatballs are cooked through. Stir in the lemon juice and serve warm.
Vegetarian Option
Use an equivalent amount of tempeh in place of the meat, and pulse it in a food processor until coarsely ground. Use 3 eggs instead of 2 eggs.
parvin’s tamarind stuffed fish
This tart baked trout is inspired by my cousin Parvin’s
Norooz
fish recipe, and its easy, quick preparation is good news for anyone who’s ever been anxious about cooking a whole fish. Trout is reasonably priced, often deboned and therefore easy to eat, and among the very fastest-cooking fish. Try coarsely chopped cranberries or tart cherries if you can’t find barberries. You can make the filling a day ahead, but stuff the fish just before baking.
serves 4