The New Persian Kitchen (19 page)
Read The New Persian Kitchen Online
Authors: Louisa Shafia
Turmeric Chicken with Sumac and Lime
Simple and quick to prepare, this weeknight chicken recipe still boasts all the exotic flavor of more elaborate Persian dishes. I recommend using chicken thighs, which are moister, more flavorful, and cheaper than breasts, and their dark meat contains minerals that you won’t find in white meat. Drumsticks and breasts will work just fine here, too, although breasts may require a little more time on the stove because of their density. If you use skinless chicken, increase the amount of cooking oil by a tablespoon or two. Serve the chicken with a fluffy grain, such as rice, millet, or quinoa.
serves 41 teaspoon ground turmeric
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 bone-in chicken thighs
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
¾ cup water
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 juicy limes, halved
Sumac, for garnish
In a small bowl, mix the turmeric with 1 tablespoon salt and 2 teaspoons pepper. Place the chicken on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with the spice mixture, turning to coat both sides.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Brown the chicken well on both sides, about 7 minutes per side. Pour in the water, then add the garlic, stirring it into the water. Bring the water to a boil, then turn down the heat to low and cover. Braise the chicken for 25 minutes, until the inside is opaque. Transfer the chicken to a serving platter, turn up the heat to high, and reduce the cooking liquid for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until it’s slightly thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour the sauce over the chicken.
Dust the chicken with sumac and pepper, garnish with lime halves, and serve.
Vegetarian OptionUse whole portobello mushrooms in place of the chicken, or use 1 pound firm tofu, well drained and cut into slabs 1 inch thick. You will need a little extra oil for searing than what is called for in the recipe.
stews and casseroles
Persian
stew, or
khoresh
, is the crowning glory of Persian cuisine, a culinary pageant in which the fruits and vegetables of a biblical land show off their bright colors and flavors, from sour to sweet, spicy to savory. The recipes in this chapter offer just a sample of the ingredients likely to find their way into a Persian stew, including eggplants, tomatoes, peaches, green herbs, dried limes, rhubarb, tamarind, split peas, kidney beans, and barley.
stew, or
khoresh
, is the crowning glory of Persian cuisine, a culinary pageant in which the fruits and vegetables of a biblical land show off their bright colors and flavors, from sour to sweet, spicy to savory. The recipes in this chapter offer just a sample of the ingredients likely to find their way into a Persian stew, including eggplants, tomatoes, peaches, green herbs, dried limes, rhubarb, tamarind, split peas, kidney beans, and barley.
In exotic pairings like pomegranate with chicken, fish with tamarind, and lamb with rhubarb, you find the trademark combination of fruit and meat in Persian cooking. These bedazzled dishes have been around since the Greeks began writing about the food of their archrivals some five hundred years before Christ. Even then, it was likely understood by the Persians that the acid in fruit cuts through animal fat, making it tastier and more digestible. There’s ample evidence that the pairing of fruit and meat spread from Persia throughout the Arab world and into Europe via trade routes, invasions, and the Crusades, inspiring such iconic Western dishes as duck à l’orange, mincemeat pie (originally made with meat and fruit), and even American turkey with cranberry sauce.
To better understand why Persian stews are so renowned and influential, it helps to understand that they’re considerably thicker than Western stews,
more like rich casseroles that merit being the center of a meal. Too thick to be a soup,
khoresh
isn’t eaten with a spoon but instead is meant to be ladled over fluffy white rice, or another whole grain. The one exception to that rule in this chapter is the recipe for
Kharcho
(
Barley Stew with Lamb and Rhubarb
), a delectable version of
khoresh
from a little farther west of Iran, in Georgia—there the grain is cooked right into the stew. Usually, stew and rice are accompanied with tangy yogurt, because it lightens and brightens the whole meal. For kosher eaters, however, extra lime juice, lemon juice, or a condiment of sour pickles can balance the meal in much the same way.
more like rich casseroles that merit being the center of a meal. Too thick to be a soup,
khoresh
isn’t eaten with a spoon but instead is meant to be ladled over fluffy white rice, or another whole grain. The one exception to that rule in this chapter is the recipe for
Kharcho
(
Barley Stew with Lamb and Rhubarb
), a delectable version of
khoresh
from a little farther west of Iran, in Georgia—there the grain is cooked right into the stew. Usually, stew and rice are accompanied with tangy yogurt, because it lightens and brightens the whole meal. For kosher eaters, however, extra lime juice, lemon juice, or a condiment of sour pickles can balance the meal in much the same way.
The Persian Gulf specialty
Ghaliyeh Mahi
(
Persian Gulf–Style Spicy Tamarind Fish Stew
) shows off India’s influence on Iranian cooking in the form of spicy chile peppers, which are virtually unseen in Iran outside of the southern region. The recipe for
Ghormeh Sabzi
(
Green Herb and Kidney Bean Stew
), traditionally made with lamb or chicken, is reconfigured here with meaty tofu, for a satisfying and heart-healthy take on a time-honored favorite. Finally,
Fesenjan
(
Pomegranate Walnut Stew
) is a stellar example of the magic of
malas
, the Persian term for “sweet and sour.” Surely, this dish is what must have charmed the palates of Europeans so many centuries ago.
eggplant and tomato stew with pomegranate molassesGhaliyeh Mahi
(
Persian Gulf–Style Spicy Tamarind Fish Stew
) shows off India’s influence on Iranian cooking in the form of spicy chile peppers, which are virtually unseen in Iran outside of the southern region. The recipe for
Ghormeh Sabzi
(
Green Herb and Kidney Bean Stew
), traditionally made with lamb or chicken, is reconfigured here with meaty tofu, for a satisfying and heart-healthy take on a time-honored favorite. Finally,
Fesenjan
(
Pomegranate Walnut Stew
) is a stellar example of the magic of
malas
, the Persian term for “sweet and sour.” Surely, this dish is what must have charmed the palates of Europeans so many centuries ago.
bademjan
Make this rich stew on a lazy day when you have time to caramelize the onions until they’re dark and sweet, then cook the stew and let it rest for a while on the stove before eating to let the flavors develop. It’s important to use Japanese eggplants in this recipe, because their flesh is sweeter than regular eggplant and they have fewer and smaller seeds. Traditionally, the eggplant is fried before being added to the stew; but in the interest of health, I’ve chosen to roast it instead, using very little oil, and I’m happy to report that the result is simply delectable. I prefer to use a sweetened pomegranate molasses in this recipe, but if you have the unsweetened variety, you can add a shot of honey to balance the flavors: start with 1 tablespoon and sweeten to taste. You can bake off the eggplant and cook the split peas the day before.
serves 42 pounds Japanese eggplant, peeled and diced
Sea salt
5 tablespoons grapeseed oil
½ cup split peas
8 cups water
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 medium to large tomatoes (2 pounds), coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ cup pomegranate molasses
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock, boiling
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Spread the eggplant on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon of the oil. Bake for 40 minutes, stirring gently every 10 minutes to prevent sticking. When the eggplant is completely soft, let it cool to room temperature.
While the eggplant cooks, combine the split peas with the water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer, covered, for about 40 minutes, until the peas are tender. Drain and season with 1 teaspoon salt.
Heat the remaining 4 tablespoons oil in a Dutch oven or a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook for 10 minutes, until it starts to darken, then cook slowly over low heat for about 30 minutes, until it is dark brown and about half its original volume. Add the eggplant, tomatoes, turmeric, cinnamon, pomegranate molasses, garlic, split peas, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the stock and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 1 hour. Uncover and simmer for 15 minutes, until the stew is thick.
Turn off the heat and let the stew rest for 15 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
pomegranate walnut stewfesenjan
The sweet-and-sour flavor of
fesenjan
, a classic Iranian stew regularly featured on the menus of weddings and special occasions, is the magical combination of rich ground walnuts and tart pomegranate syrup. Served on a bed of fluffy rice and decorated with jewel-like pomegranate seeds, this stew makes a stunning addition to any holiday table.
fesenjan
, a classic Iranian stew regularly featured on the menus of weddings and special occasions, is the magical combination of rich ground walnuts and tart pomegranate syrup. Served on a bed of fluffy rice and decorated with jewel-like pomegranate seeds, this stew makes a stunning addition to any holiday table.
serves 4Grapeseed oil, for searing
Sea salt
2 pounds skinless chicken legs or breasts
2 yellow onions, finely diced
1 cup walnuts, coarsely ground
½ cup pomegranate molasses
2 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water, hot
1 cup peeled and grated red beets
Heat a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Lightly salt the chicken and sear for 6 to 7 minutes per side, until well browned, then transfer to a plate.
In the same skillet, sauté the onions over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned.
Add the walnuts, pomegranate molasses, and 2 teaspoons salt, and stir to coat the onions. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and return the chicken to the stew. Cover and cook for 25 minutes. Stir in the beets and cook, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, until the stew is thick and the beets are tender. Salt to taste.
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