sweets
The range
and quality of Persian desserts is stunning, from the melt-in-your-mouth majesty of saffron rice pudding to the icy pink goodness of
faloodeh
. The dessert recipes in this chapter emphasize the luscious fruits and nuts of the Iranian Plateau, but they also embrace a wide variety of culinary influences from all along the Silk Road.
If there’s one dish that personifies this double life of Persian desserts, it’s surely the cookie known as
koloocheh
, a date-and-walnut-filled delicacy that easily can be thought of as a Middle Eastern Fig Newton.
Koloocheh
are round baked Persian pastries that are usually stamped with a wheel pattern and filled with a spiced mixture of dried fruit and nuts. The result is a rich crust and a sweet, jammy interior.
Variations of
koloocheh
appear in many of the cultures along the Silk Road. Buddhists, Christians, and Muslims, as well as Jews, all have their unique take on its basic design. In China, for example, the midautumn harvest festival is celebrated with the iconic moon cake, an intricately molded pastry shell stuffed with a sweet or savory filling. Just as closely related are the eastern European cookies called
kolachy
or
kalacs
, which are filled with jam, poppy seeds, or walnuts. In the Arabic world,
ma’amoul
cookies are ornately shaped in intricate wooden molds and stuffed with dates and walnuts. They, too, are popular holiday treats for Muslims, Christians, and Jews
throughout the Middle East. Their honey-soaked cousins,
makroud
, in Tunisia are an essential part of the North African celebrations that mark the end of
Ramadan.
chickpea and almond flour icebox cookies
nan-e nokhodchi
Traditionally, these cookies are made exclusively with chickpea flour and punched out with tiny shamrock-shaped cookie cutters, but the dough is soft and warms up quickly, so I like to shape it into a bar, chill until firm, and then slice it into cookies. I add almond flour because it makes the dough sturdier and mellows the distinct bean taste of the chickpea flour. The bar of dough can be made ahead and chilled in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
makes about 40 cookies
½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup organic cane sugar
1 teaspoon rose water
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons chickpea flour
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons almond flour
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon sea salt
3 tablespoons pistachios, coarsely ground
Cream together the butter and sugar with an electric mixer. Beat in the rose water for a few seconds. Whisk together the flours, cardamom, cinnamon, and salt in a separate bowl, and beat into the butter in two batches, until just combined. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic wrap and press it into a disk. Wrap and chill in the freezer for 30 minutes.
Remove the dough from the freezer, unwrap it, and lay it in the middle of a large piece of plastic wrap or wax paper. Fold the wrap or paper over the dough. Form the dough into a log approximately 10 inches in length and 1½ inches in diameter, then square off the long sides to form a bar. Chill in the refrigerator until the dough is very firm, at least 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
Slice the bar into cookies ¼ inch thick and place them on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them 1 inch apart. Press a pinch of pistachios into the center of each cookie.
Bake the cookies until the bottoms are just golden, 15 to 18 minutes. Let cool on the pans for 5 minutes, then transfer to cooling racks. The cookies can be stored in a sealed container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
Rhubarb and Rose Water Sorbet with Rice Noodles
rhubarb and rose water
sorbet with rice noodles
faloodeh
On the streets of Tehran you’ll find food vendors selling dishes of chewy frozen vermicelli suspended in an icy white sherbet with a perfumed scent. This whimsical treat is called
faloodeh
, and is one of the earliest known frozen desserts, dating as far back as 400 BCE.
Faloodeh
is typically white, but this version is colored bright pink by a compote of rhubarb. A drizzle of something tart, like sour cherry syrup or lime juice, brings this dessert vividly to life.
serves 6 to 8
2 ounces rice vermicelli
1 pound rhubarb stalks, preferably red, coarsely chopped
¼ cup water
1½ cups organic cane sugar
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon rose water
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, plus extra for garnish
Crushed pistachios, for garnish
Put the vermicelli in a bowl. Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil, and pour over the vermicelli. Soak for 4 minutes, until tender. Drain and rinse under cold water. Cut the vermicelli into 1-inch lengths.
In a saucepan, combine the rhubarb with the water, sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cover and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the rhubarb is very soft. Let cool completely.
Pour the rhubarb into a blender. Add the rose water and lime juice and blend until smooth. Stir the vermicelli and rhubarb together in a large bowl. Pour into a shallow baking dish and freeze, uncovered.
Rake the
faloodeh
with a fork after 2 hours to prevent it from freezing into a solid mass. Freeze and stir again after 2 hours. Repeat after another 2 hours, if necessary. The
faloodeh
will have a malleable consistency, somewhere between ice cream and sorbet, within 4 to 6 hours. Scoop it into serving bowls and top with pistachios and lime juice. Drizzle with sour cherry syrup, if desired. The
faloodeh
tastes best within 24 hours of being made.
pomegranate
semifreddo with blood orange compote
This frozen pink mousse has a frilly green petticoat of pistachios and a scarlet-orange cloak of blood oranges and pomegranate seeds. It looks quite delicate but is simple to make. Be sure to assemble the
semifreddo
the day before serving it, because it takes several hours to freeze. When serving, have a pot of very hot water and a clean kitchen towel ready. You’ll need them to warm your knife and wipe it dry to cut through the
semifreddo
easily.
serves 8 to 10
SEMIFREDDO
½ cup pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped
1¾ cups heavy whipping cream
1 cup organic cane sugar
7 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon sea salt
2 teaspoons rose water
½ cup pomegranate molasses
COMPOTE
3 blood oranges, peeled and diced
1 to 2 tablespoons honey
To make the semifreddo, line a 9 by 5 by 3-inch loaf pan with parchment paper, so that the parchment hangs over each side of the pan. You’ll need to cut one long, narrow piece to cover the bottom, and one long, wide piece to cover the sides. Spread the pistachios over the bottom of the pan.
In an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on medium speed until it forms soft peaks. Transfer to a different bowl, and store in the refrigerator. Replace the bowl on the mixer without washing.
Whisk the sugar, egg yolks, cardamom, and salt in a large stainless-steel bowl. Set the bowl over a large saucepan of gently boiling water and whisk for about 6 minutes, until the sugar is melted, the yolks are thick, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the mixture reads 170°F.