Read The New Persian Kitchen Online
Authors: Louisa Shafia
The New Persian Kitchen (26 page)
Transfer the yolk mixture to the mixer bowl. Using the whisk attachment, beat on medium speed for 5 to 6 minutes, until cool and thick. Drizzle the rose water on top and fold in the whipped cream. Swirl in the pomegranate molasses.
Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, and tap the pan on a hard surface to remove any air pockets. Cover with a piece of parchment paper. Freeze for 8 to 12 hours, until firm.
To make the compote, combine the pomegranate seeds, blood oranges, and honey and chill in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.
To serve, remove the parchment from the top of the
semifreddo
. Dip a small knife into hot water, wipe it dry, and run the knife along the inside edge of the pan to loosen the
semifreddo
, then invert the pan onto a cutting board and lift off the pan. Now dip a large knife into the hot water, wipe it dry, and cut the
semifreddo
into 1-inch-thick slices, rewarming the knife as needed. Accompany each serving with a few spoonfuls of compote.
semifreddo
. Dip a small knife into hot water, wipe it dry, and run the knife along the inside edge of the pan to loosen the
semifreddo
, then invert the pan onto a cutting board and lift off the pan. Now dip a large knife into the hot water, wipe it dry, and cut the
semifreddo
into 1-inch-thick slices, rewarming the knife as needed. Accompany each serving with a few spoonfuls of compote.
Saffron Frozen Yogurt and Cardamom Pizzelle Sandwiches
bastani
This tart, citrusy frozen yogurt is luscious on its own, or in a Persian-style ice cream sandwich between a couple of cardamom pizzelles. These pizzelles are slightly flexible, in order to accommodate the frozen yogurt without breaking. For crispier pizzelles, let them cook for a minute or more, until they’re golden. I prefer these sandwiches to be petite, so I make the pizzelles with a 3-inch-wide pizzelle mold. (For information on where to find my pizzelle maker, see
Resources
).
Resources
).
makes 4 cups frozen yogurt and about 12 three-inch pizzelles (enough for about 6 sandwiches plus an extra 1 cup yogurt)FROZEN YOGURT
1½ cups organic cane sugar
¼ teaspoon saffron
Grated zest of 2 large oranges
4 cups thick Greek-style yogurt
¼ teaspoon sea salt
PIZZELLES1 egg
2 tablespoons organic cane sugar
Pinch of sea salt
2 tablespoons refined coconut oil, melted
1 to 2 teaspoons orange flower water (optional)
½ cup spelt flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
To make the frozen yogurt, grind the sugar and saffron to a fine powder in an electric spice grinder, and transfer to a large bowl. Add the orange zest, yogurt, and salt, and stir well. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
To make the pizzelle batter, whisk the egg in a bowl with the sugar, salt, oil, and orange flower water. In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and cardamom. Whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until smooth.
Heat a pizzelle iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions and grease it very lightly with coconut oil. Drop the batter onto the hot iron by the tablespoonful. Close the iron and cook for 30 to 60 seconds, depending on your machine. Loosen the pizzelles with a knife and let cool on a flat surface. Repeat with the remaining batter, greasing the iron as needed. The pizzelles will last for a few days in an airtight container at room temperature.
To make the sandwiches, place a scoop of frozen yogurt between two pizzelles. Allow the sandwiches to firm up in the freezer for at least 15 minutes, or up to 24 hours, before serving. The yogurt gets very hard after a day in the freezer, but it softens up after about 10 minutes at room temperature. The extra frozen yogurt can be eaten on its own or topped with fresh fruit, and it makes a creamy and flavorful base for smoothies.
The Festive Table: The Tradition of the
Sofreh
mulberry yogurt cakeSofreh
Imagine a large table covered by a fine cloth, decorated with sweets, bread, flowers, candles, fruit, a book of poetry, and a mirror. No, it’s not the snack table in the waiting room of an expensive spa. This is a
sofreh
, a “spread” in Persian, and it refers to the ancient
Zoroastrian custom of spreading a cloth on the ground during special occasions and covering it with symbolic elements. Up until recently, it was customary for Iranians to take their meals seated on the floor, where a
sofreh
cloth would be laid out on a rug and spread with food. This is the origin of the
sofreh
, and though many people still eat in this fashion, the highly ornate
sofreh
tables that appear at holidays and at weddings are strictly intended for ritual purposes.
sofreh
, a “spread” in Persian, and it refers to the ancient
Zoroastrian custom of spreading a cloth on the ground during special occasions and covering it with symbolic elements. Up until recently, it was customary for Iranians to take their meals seated on the floor, where a
sofreh
cloth would be laid out on a rug and spread with food. This is the origin of the
sofreh
, and though many people still eat in this fashion, the highly ornate
sofreh
tables that appear at holidays and at weddings are strictly intended for ritual purposes.
Along with many other Zoroastrian customs, the use of the
sofreh
was enfolded into Shia Muslim practice after Iran became an
Islamic country, and it’s typical for the ritual table to hold a copy of the Koran. The
sofreh
is meant to embody the prayers and hopes of a family, couple, or individual.
sofreh
was enfolded into Shia Muslim practice after Iran became an
Islamic country, and it’s typical for the ritual table to hold a copy of the Koran. The
sofreh
is meant to embody the prayers and hopes of a family, couple, or individual.
The objects placed on the
sofreh
change according to the occasion, with the most elaborate and expensive designs typically trotted out for weddings. (Having helped create a
sofreh
for my own wedding, I’m intimately familiar with the details!)
sofreh
change according to the occasion, with the most elaborate and expensive designs typically trotted out for weddings. (Having helped create a
sofreh
for my own wedding, I’m intimately familiar with the details!)
Some of the symbolic items that are featured on the wedding
sofreh
, known as the
sofreh-ye aghd
, include the following:
sofreh
, known as the
sofreh-ye aghd
, include the following:
• A mirror, symbolizing reality and honesty
• Persian cookies and candy, to symbolize the sweetness of life
• Honey, also for sweetness; after signing the marriage documents, the bride and groom feed each other honey with their fingers
The
sofreh
also plays a key role during the Iranian New Year celebration, known as
Norooz
(for a full explanation of
Norooz
, see
Celebrating the Seasons
). Walk into any Persian home between mid-March and the first week of April and you’ll find a table decorated with pots of wheatgrass sprouts, a goldfish in a bowl (it can be real or fake), a book of Hafez’s poetry, and seven foods that begin with the letter
s
in Persian, each of which has a distinct role in encouraging the divine spirit to bring good things in the year ahead.
sofreh
also plays a key role during the Iranian New Year celebration, known as
Norooz
(for a full explanation of
Norooz
, see
Celebrating the Seasons
). Walk into any Persian home between mid-March and the first week of April and you’ll find a table decorated with pots of wheatgrass sprouts, a goldfish in a bowl (it can be real or fake), a book of Hafez’s poetry, and seven foods that begin with the letter
s
in Persian, each of which has a distinct role in encouraging the divine spirit to bring good things in the year ahead.
Some of the symbolic items that belong on the
sofreh-ye haft-seen
, the “
sofreh
of the seven
s
’s,” include the following:
sofreh-ye haft-seen
, the “
sofreh
of the seven
s
’s,” include the following:
• Garlic (
seer
), symbolizing medicine
• Green herbs (
sabzeh
) for rebirth
• Sumac (
somagh
), reflecting the color of the sunrise, and the victory of light and goodness over the dark
• Vinegar (
serkeh
) for patience and longevity
Growing up in Philadelphia, we had a mulberry tree in our backyard, and my father was always content when he could come home on a June evening and eat fresh berries right off the tree, just like he did in Iran. I assumed that everyone ate mulberries until I came to New York and saw that only the birds seemed to like them! Sweet mulberries are in season in May and June, but if you can’t find them use blackberries (large blackberries should be halved before baking). Whipping the egg whites gives lightness to this fruity cake, and low-gluten barley flour gives it a tender texture.
makes one 10-inch cake2 cups barley flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ cup unrefined coconut oil, melted and cooled to room temperature
½ cup thick Greek-style yogurt
2 eggs, separated
Zest of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1¼ cups organic cane sugar
½ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups mulberries
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 10-inch springform pan.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and ¼ teaspoon salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the coconut oil, yogurt, egg yolks, lemon zest, vanilla, and 1 cup of the sugar. Stir the dry ingredients into the wet until just combined.
In an electric mixture fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt on medium-high speed. After about 3 minutes, when they start to foam and puff, add the lemon juice and continue beating until they form soft peaks. Add the remaining ¼ cup sugar and beat for 3 to 4 minutes, until the whites are stiff and shiny.
Fold one-third of the egg whites into the batter to loosen it slightly, then fold in the rest. Gently fold in the berries. Pour the batter into the springform pan and bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool completely in the pan on a cooling rack. Store at room temperature for up to 3 days.
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