The New Persian Kitchen (7 page)

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Authors: Louisa Shafia

BOOK: The New Persian Kitchen
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Season the fritters with salt and pepper and top each with a dollop of yogurt.
new
potatoes with
dill and lemon
I first tasted these verdant potatoes in a Russian spa and was reminded of both the Jewish and Persian foods I grew up enjoying. No wonder, as dill is native to southern Russia and Central Asia, and both Russians and Iranians scatter this pungent herb liberally into cooked and raw foods. Dill’s lively, aniselike flavor complements potatoes perfectly. If you can’t find new potatoes, simply use a good waxy variety like fingerlings or red potatoes, and adjust the cooking time accordingly.
serves 6
2 pounds small new potatoes, scrubbed
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups loosely packed fresh dill, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and boil for about 10 minutes, until fork-tender. Drain and let cool slightly. As soon as the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them in half.
While the potatoes cook, whisk together the oil, lemon zest and juice, dill, garlic, and turmeric in a large bowl. Toss the still-hot potatoes in the dressing and season with salt and pepper. Serve warm.
persian-style grilled corn
balal
Grilled corn is a popular warm-weather street food in Iran, and during corn season, vendors are out in force turning corn over hot coals until it’s smoky and charred. The corn then gets a quick wash in a bath of briny water, and is then handed steaming hot to eager customers. This traditional method of preparing corn works equally well on a gas grill or over coals. The corn requires no oil or butter. Its flavor is due solely to the saltwater, the smokiness of the grill, and its own natural sweetness.
serves 4
Sea salt
4 ears corn, shucked (leave stems on)
Prepare a hot grill.
As the grill heats, select a stockpot big enough to hold all of the corn. Fill the pot three-quarters full of water and bring it to a boil. Add enough salt to make the water very briny, about 2 tablespoons. Turn off the heat and set aside, covered.
Place the corn directly on the hot grill. Using tongs, rotate the corn once every minute or so. Grill the corn for about 10 minutes, until tender. It should be browned and charred all over, but not burned.
Immediately submerge the corn in the salty water, and swish it around with tongs to remove any charred bits or flakes. Pull out the corn and serve hot.
 
“
Persian” or “
Iranian”?
Have you ever heard of an “Iranian” restaurant? My guess is you haven’t. Restaurants in America that serve food from Iran are usually called “Persian,” or, even more enigmatically, “Middle Eastern,” even “Mediterranean.” You can’t blame the restaurant owners: Due to the United States’ long-running cold war with Iran, the name continues to carry negative connotations. But the debate over whether to say Persia or Iran goes back much further than the present era.
What’s in a Name?
Records dating back to the Sassanid Persian Empire in the third century CE refer to a race of people known as Aryans, the root of the modern word “Iranians.” Although “Aryan” is a loaded term for us today, perhaps best known for its perverse use by Nazi Germany, “Aryan” is simply a Sanskrit word meaning “noble” that was used to refer to an Indo-European people who inhabited Iran, Afghanistan, and India.
The Greeks, those famously fluent chroniclers of ancient history, called the Iranians Parsis, because the first great ruler of the Persian Empire, Cyrus the Great, was based in the province of Pars. Because our historical perspective of the ancient world was handed down to us by the Greeks, the term “Persian” has been used in the West to refer to Iranians ever since.
So, which is the correct word: “Persian” or “Iranian”? Technically, “Iranian” is the proper term. It’s what people inside Iran have been calling themselves since the beginning of their history, and in practical terms, there is no place on the map called Persia. At the same time, most of the historical accomplishments of the Iranian people known to the West have been attributed to Persians, and that’s how we’ve come to appreciate Persian poetry, astronomy, miniature painting, rug weaving—and, of course, fine Persian cuisine. I use both words interchangeably throughout the book; that way we keep ourselves grounded in reality, but we still have a little room left to dream, too.

Clockwise from left:
Yogurt with Beets
,
Turkish Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Dip
,
Garlicky Eggplant and Tomato Spread

turkish roasted tomato and red pepper dip
The northwestern tip of Iran borders Turkey’s eastern provinces, and there’s a long history of shared cooking customs between the two countries. This umami-rich dip known as
ezme
, which tips its hat to the Persian palate, is ubiquitous in Istanbul restaurants, and ranges from the sublime to the so-so. Indeed, you’ll find that the quality of the
ezme
is a good indicator of the quality of the food overall. When made with care, this simple spread really sings and enlivens the taste of any Mediterranean meal. It’s best enjoyed within a day of being made.
makes 2 cups
3 medium to large tomatoes (1½ pounds), halved
1 red bell pepper, halved and seeded
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 shallot, minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Combine the tomatoes and red pepper in a large bowl and drizzle with the grapeseed oil. Season with salt and pepper, and toss well to coat. Spread the vegetables on a baking sheet, and roast, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes, until tender. Let cool.
In a small bowl, whisk the garlic and shallot with the extra-virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses, paprika, and a pinch of salt.
Combine the roasted vegetables, parsley, and marinade in a food processor and pulse several times until mostly smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.
garlicky eggplant and tomato spread
mirza ghasemi
I don’t know who “Mr.” or
Mirza
Ghasemi was, but like the anonymous father of baba ghanoush (which means “pampered daddy” in Arabic), his name lives on as a richly flavored eggplant dip that’s made to be slathered on flatbread. This ocher-hued spread is thickened with scrambled eggs, which make it substantial enough to be spooned over grains for a light, satisfying meal. I advise making it a day ahead so the flavors can ripen. If you can’t be bothered to skin the tomatoes, simply use a 16-ounce can of crushed tomatoes. (
See photo
.)
serves 4 to 6
1 large eggplant (1 pound), sliced in half lengthwise
3 medium to large tomatoes (1½ pounds)
3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 eggs
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet with grapeseed oil.
Lay the eggplant face down on the baking sheet, score the skin with a fork, and bake for about 1 hour, until very tender. When cool, scoop out the flesh and coarsely chop.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil and prepare a bowl of ice water. Cut a shallow X at the base of each tomato and boil for 1 minute, then plunge in the ice water. Pull off the skin and dice small.
Heat the grapeseed oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat and add the tomatoes, eggplant, garlic, tomato paste, and turmeric. Cook for 10 minutes, until the tomatoes are softened and the flavors of the garlic and turmeric have mellowed.
Take about ¼ cup of the vegetables and whisk them with the eggs in a bowl. Add the mixture to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, until the eggs are fully cooked. Turn off the heat and add the lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a serving bowl. Serve warm topped with the extra-virgin olive oil.
yogurt with beets
borani chogondar

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