Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (41 page)

Empress of China
(merchant ship):

   cargo,
1
–2,
25
–26

   as pioneer of Chinese-American trade,
1
–2,
5
–7,
10
,
15
–16,
25
–26,
250

   shipboard cuisine,
2
–3,
4
,
5

Empress of China (restaurant),
220

entertainment:

   in Chinese restaurants,
188
–91,
207

   
See also
arts and entertainment

etiquette:

   of Chinese banquets,
46
,
47
–48,
92
–93,
235
,
238

   
of chopsticks,
46
,
48
,
51
,
63

   European,
11
–13

   of Imperial China,
43
–44,
46
–48

   in post-revolutionary America,
11

   of western-style banquets,
44
–46

Europeans:

   in Chinese treaty ports,
53
–55

   etiquette of,
11
–13

   in Guangzhou,
28
–29

   settlement of Macau,
21
,
26

   writings by,
22
–24

   
See also
British traders; western culinary traditions

Evans, Albert S.,
119

Evanston, Wyoming,
139

Everest, Mount,
68

factories of Guangzhou,
20

   American,
26

   British,
8
–9,
12

   foreigners’ confinement to,
7
,
9
,
13
,
26
,
28
–29

fan-cai
dichotomy,
79
–80,
94
,
98
,
101
,
134
–35

farming.
See
agriculture

fast food:

   in America,
239
–40,
248

   in China,
248
–49,
250

   
See also
franchise restaurants

fats,
85
–86,
92

Fenollosa, Ernest,
170

fen si
(cellophane noodles),
91

fermentation:

   of beverages,
75
,
76
,
91

   of foods,
86
–87,
100

fish:

   in Chinese cuisine,
67
,
72
,
81
,
84
–85,
99
,
100
,
101

   diners’ anecdotes,
33
–34

   fermentation of,
86

fishing:

   by Chinese Americans,
119
–20

   Chinese cultural history of,
6
,
81
,
100
,
101

fish sauce,
87

Five Years in China
(Taylor),
63

flatbreads,
88

flavorings:

   in Chinese cuisine,
85
–87,
98

   
See also
sauces; spices

flour, milling of,
76
,
87
–88

Flower Drum Song
(musical),
197

Flushing, N.Y.,
251

food therapy, Chinese,
78

Forbidden City (imperial court),
17
,
21

Forbidden City (nightclub),
189
,
190

Forman, Allan,
157
–58,
161

Four Districts (Sze Yap) region,
101
–2,
113
,
159
,
161
,
210

Four Seas (restaurant),
223

France:

   as American ally,
4
,
11

   cuisine of,
107
,
155
–56

franchise restaurants,
247
–49

Franklin, Benjamin,
23

Freeman, Charles,
227
,
239

French cuisine,
107
,
155
–56

French, John B.,
60
–61

fried rice,
210
,
216

fried wontons,
210

frogs, in Chinese cuisine,
23
,
24
,
63
,
81

fruit:

   in Chinese cuisine,
71
,
82
–83,
83
–84,
101

   in food therapy,
78

   
See also specific fruits

Fujian dishes,
244

Fujian Province,
99
,
127
,
246

fusion restaurants,
248

Fu Xi,
72

Fuzhou,
53
,
99
,
246

galangal,
134

Gang of Four,
232

Gantt, Ernest R.B.,
215

garlic,
59
,
79
–80,
85
,
99

Geary Act,
142

geese,
81

General History of China
(Du Halde),
23
,
24
,
25

“General Tso’s Chicken,”
241
–43,
251

German immigrants,
149
,
151

Gibson, Otis,
127

ginger:

   in Chinese cuisine,
30
,
84
,
85
,
98
,
99

   in regional cuisines,
100

ginseng, as trade good,
1
–2,
15
,
25
–26,
26
–27

gluten,
89
–90

Gold Mountain,
102
,
109

Gold Mountain firms,
118

gold rush:

   Black Hills,
139

   California,
102
,
107
–10,
112
–14,
115
,
134

   
See also
mining camps

Gompers, Samuel,
141

Good Housekeeping,
165

Goodnow, Elizabeth,
184

gourds,
80
,
101

gourmet culture:

   at Beijing Olympics,
250

   of imperial courts,
47
–49

   in modern China,
81

   in New York City,
157
,
221
,
223
–24

   in Shunde,
101

   in Song Dynasty,
94
–95

grains:

   in Chinese cuisine,
71
,
78
–79,
83
–84,
87
–89,
91
,
99

   early cooking methods,
73
,
76
,
84

   in
fan-cai
dichotomy,
79
,
94
,
98
,
101

   in food therapy,
78

   milling of,
76
,
87
–88

   
See also specific grains

Grand Vatel,
157

Grant Avenue (Dupont Street).
See
San Francisco Chinatown

Gray, John Henry,
95
–96,
97

Great Depression,
205

Great Hall of the People,
224
,
227
,
229
,
237

Great Shanghai (restaurant),
221

Great Wall of China,
18
,
23
,
72
,
234

Green, John,
1
,
2
,
6
,
7
,
13

Guangdong,
69

Guangdong Province,
5
,
36
,
97
,
99
–100,
206

Guangxi Province,
69

Guangzhou (Canton):

   American missionaries in,
31
–34,
59
,
60

   blockade of,
36
,
40

   food culture of,
24
,
35
,
71
,
97
,
98
,
100
,
101
,
112

   geography of,
100

   1700s landscape,
6
–7

   as trade center,
7
,
8
–9,
20
,
26
,
108
,
118

Guangzhou Province,
17

Guideways through Mountains and Seas (
Shanhaijing
),
18
,
21

guo
(cooking pot),
87

Gwathmey Siegel Associates,
215

Haig, Alexander,
231

Hakka ethnic group,
206
,
244

Haldeman, H.R.,
233
,
234

Hall of Supreme Harmony,
17

Hammerstein, Oscar,
197

Hamm, Margherita Arlina,
165

Han Dynasty:

   culinary history of,
80
,
84
,
86
,
87
–91,
92

   expansionism in,
19
,
78
,
83

Hang Far Low (restaurant),
123

Hangzhou,
65
,
79

Harland, Marion,
185

Harlem,
167

Harper’s Bazaar,
185
–86

Harte, Bret,
146

Hawaiian Islands,
27
,
41
,
109
,
206
–7

“The Heathen Chinee” (Harte),
146

Hee Seung Fung (restaurant),
244

Henan Province,
72

Henry, Gale,
195

Hickey, William,
14

“high dishes,”
14

“Hi Lee Hi Lo—I Love you Chop Suey a la Foxee,”
196

Hinky Dinks Tavern,
216

hoisan sauce,
223

Holdridge, John,
230
,
232

“Hold That Critter Down” (Nolan),
139
–40

Holt, Jane,
219

Hom, Ken,
248

Honam,
13
,
14
,
29

Hong fa-lo (restaurant),
123
–24

Hong Heong Restaurant,
103
–7

Hong Kong:

   ceded to Britain,
37

   culinary culture of,
112
,
214

   geography of,
69
–70,
100

   as port city,
109
,
118
,
217

Honolulu,
206

Hopper, Edward,
197

horse meat, in Chinese cuisine,
23
,
80
,
166
,
249

hot and sour soup,
251

Hou Ji,
76

Howells, William Dean (Mr. and Mrs.),
170

How to Cook and Eat in Chinese,
217
–19

HSF (Hee Seung Fung restaurant),
244

Huang Di (Yellow Emperor),
73
,
78

Huanghe River (Yellow River),
68
–69,
70
,
71
,
88

Hunam (restaurant),
241
–42,
242

Hunan cuisine:

   in American restaurants,
221
,
241
–43,
244

   origins of,
83
,
99

“Hunan Gulch,”
244

Hunan Province,
83
,
99

Hunan Restaurant,
241

Hunter, William C.,
44
–45

Ichthyophagus Club,
151
,
154

Illustrations of the Tribute-Bearing People of the Qing
(1761),
21
–22

immigrants to United States:

   French,
151

   German,
149
,
151

   Irish,
133
,
137
,
140
,
149
,
151
,
173

   Italian,
120
,
151

   Jewish,
151
,
198
–205

   lure of gold for,
102
,
107
–10,
112
–14,
134

   in 1980s,
243
–44

   Scandinavian,
151

   and “white slavery” issue,
184

   
See also
Chinese Americans

Immigration and Nationality Act,
217
,
223

Imperial China:

   anti-foreign attitudes in,
9
,
19
,
21
–22,
36
,
44
,
49
,
52
–53,
165
–66

   etiquette of,
43
–44,
46
–48

   importance of cookery in,
67

   interest in outside world,
19
–20

   inventions of,
16

   as “Middle Kingdom,”
16
–19,
29

   system of government,
16
–17

   trading partnerships,
19
–22

   tribute system in,
17
,
19
–20

   
See also
Chinese cuisine; Emperors

Imperial Palace (restaurant),
220

In a Chinese Restaurant
(movie),
195

India,
9
,
10
,
19
,
36
,
83

insects, as food,
81
,
198

Irish immigrants,
133
,
137
,
140
,
149
,
151
,
173

Jade Emperor,
82

Japan,
19
,
221
,
247

Java,
4
,
5

Jay, John,
7