Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (44 page)

   on shipboard cuisine,
3

Shaw, William,
111

sheep,
2
,
80
–81

   
See also
lamb; mutton

shellfish,
72
,
100

   
See also
seafood

Shen Nong,
72
–73

Shoot the Works
(musical),
196
–97

shrimp,
67
,
120
,
198
,
205
,
223

Shunde,
101

Shun Lee (restaurant),
222
–23,
241
,
246

Shun Lee Dynasty (restaurant),
223

Shu Xi,
88
–89

Sia, Mary Li,
207

Sichuan cuisine:

   in American restaurants,
221
,
223
,
236
,
243
,
244

   origins of,
83
,
99

Sichuan peppers,
83
,
85

Sichuan Province,
17
,
69
,
83
,
92
,
99

Sigel, Elsie, murder case,
180
–84

Silk Road,
19
,
57
,
68
,
83

silver:

   mining,
135

   as trade currency,
1
,
26
,
28

   
See also
mining camps

Six Companies,
104
,
113

Smith, Keely,
197

Smith, Wally,
192

snakes, in Chinese cuisine,
23
,
81
,
231

Snow, Edgar,
226

Society of the Right and Harmonious Fists,
165
–66

“Some Celestial Dishes” (Hamm),
165

Song Dynasty,
84
,
85
,
86
,
94
–95

South China:

   climate of,
70

   cultivation in,
71
,
72
,
76
,
78
–79,
82
–83

   geography of,
69
–70

   typical modern fare,
80

South China Sea,
100

Southern regional cuisine of China,
99
–102

South Florida Sun-Sentinel,
249

soybeans,
76
,
80
,
86
–87

soy sauce:

   as American convenience food,
192
,
193
,
250

   in Chinese cuisine,
86
–87,
92
,
98
,
100
,
134
,
160

   and Chinese miners,
137

Spain,
165

Speer, William,
134

spices:

   in Chinese cuisine,
83
,
85
,
134

   in European cuisine,
12

   
See also specific spices

squashes,
101

stags’ pizzles,
23

star anise,
134

steamed breads,
88
,
89
,
95
,
99

steaming.
See
cooking methods

stir-fry:

   Chinese dishes called,
111
,
149
–50

   chop suey as,
160
,
164

   cooking method of,
85
,
87
,
101

St. Louis,
171
–72

Stockton, Calif.,
134

Stork Club,
192

string beans,
122

sturgeon,
81
,
120

Sui Ren,
72

Suiyan Shidan
(Yuan),
66
–67

Sumatra,
4

Sun Leung,
182

Sun Yat-Sen,
206

Susanna Foo’s (restaurant),
248

Szechuan cuisine.
See
Sichuan cuisine

Szechuan East (restaurant),
224

Szechuan Restaurant,
224

Szechuan Taste (restaurant),
223
–24

“Szechuan Valley,”
244

Sze Yap (Four Districts) region,
101
–2,
113
,
159
,
161
,
210

Sze Yap Company,
124

Taipei,
223

Tai, Uncle,
243

Taiwan,
214
,
217
,
223
,
234

   Chef Peng in,
243
–44

Tang Dynasty,
85
,
89
,
90

T’ang, King,
73
–75

Tan River,
101

taro,
80
,
101

Taverne Alsacienne (restaurant),
157

Taylor, Bayard,
110
,
115
–17,
140

Taylor, Charles,
62
–63,
116

tea:

   American taste for,
22
,
132
–33

   in Chinese cuisine,
92
,
95
,
96
–97

   as Chinese export,
2
,
15
,
16
,
22
,
26
,
92

   from jujubes,
82

   origins of,
92
,
132

   preparation of,
92
,
132

   
See also
teahouses

teahouses,
95
,
96
–97,
100

Tenderloin district,
167
,
168

Territorial Enterprise,
136

texture, in Chinese cuisine,
86

thousand-year-old eggs,
136
,
238

Three Districts region,
100
,
101

Three Gorges Dam,
69

Tiananmen Square,
224
,
247

Tibet,
17
,
68

Tibet Plateau,
68
,
69

Tiki bars,
216

Tiki Temple (restaurant),
233

Tilden, Bryant Parrott,
29
–31

Times (Long Acre) Square,
167
,
168

Todd, Mrs. Florence,
182

tofu (bean curd),
67
,
80
,
210

Toishan,
161

Tong, Michael,
222
,
241
,
245
–46,
251

trade.
See
American traders in China; British traders; Chinese trade

Trader Vic’s,
216
,
233

Trafton, Edwin H.,
144
–48

Treaty of Nanking,
37
,
39

Treaty of Wang Xia,
47
,
49
,
50
,
52

trepang,
27

   
See also
sea cucumbers

Triton
(French merchant ship),
4
–5

Tso, General,
241
–42

Tune Fong’s (restaurant),
132

Turkey,
36

turmeric,
134

turnips,
79

turtles, in Chinese cuisine,
81
–82

Twain, Mark,
136

Tyler, John,
38
,
39
,
40
,
52

Uncle Peng’s Hunan Yuan,
243

Uncle Tai,
243

Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan,
241

“Underground Gourmet” (food column),
223

“underground gourmets,”
157

Uneasy Money
(Wodehouse),
191

United States history:

   American Revolution,
4
,
10
–11,
22
,
24

   anti-Chinese movement in,
140
–43,
153

   Beijing Summer Olympics (2008),
248
–50

   Chinese Exclusion Act,
142
,
161
,
205
,
206
,
216

   Constitutional Convention,
16

   1893 World’s Columbian Exposition,
171

   Geary Act,
142

   Gold Rush,
102
,
107
–10,
112
–14,
115
,
134

   Great Depression,
205

   Immigration and Nationality Act,
217
,
223

   Korean War,
225

   Li Hongzhang’s visit,
161
–64,
240

   Magnuson Act of 1943,
216
–17

   
Maine
battleship explosion,
165

   Manifest Destiny,
40
–41,
115
,
165

   moon landing,
1

   as new country,
1
,
4
,
5
,
6
,
10
–11,
16
,
24
–25,
26

   Nixon’s visit to China,
224
–26

   pre-revolutionary,
22
–23

   Prohibition,
189
,
207

   transcontinental railroads,
138

   Treaty of Wang Xia,
47
,
49
,
50
,
52

   War Brides Act,
217

   
See also
Americans in China

U.S.S.
Brandywine,
38

Vanity Fair,
197

vegetables:

   in Chinese cuisine,
71
,
79
–80,
83
–84,
86
,
99
,
100
,
101
,
134

   early cooking methods,
83
,
84

   
in
fan-cai
dichotomy,
79
–80,
94
,
101

   fermentation of,
86

   in food therapy,
78

   in western shipboard cuisine,
2
,
3
,
5

   
See also specific vegetables

vegetarian cuisine,
89
–90

vendors, street:

   in America,
120
–22,
123
,
129

   in China,
29
,
89
,
95
,
97
,
98

Vietnam,
17
,
79

Views A-Foot
(Taylor),
115

vinegar,
3
,
92
,
99

Virginia City,
135
–36

A Visit to India, China and Japan
(Taylor),
117

Volstead Act,
189

Voltaire,
23

Waldorf Hotel,
162
,
163
,
164

Walker, Ron,
233
,
234

Wall Street Journal,
241

Walters, Barbara,
238

Wangfujing Night Market,
249

Wang, Tsung Ting,
222
,
241
,
243

Wang Xiaoyu,
65
–66

Wang Xia Temple (Kun Iam Temple),
42
,
47

Wang Xia, Treaty of,
47
,
49
,
50
,
52

Wang Yun Ching,
224

War Brides Act,
217

Washington, D.C.,
170
,
212
,
220

Washington, George,
22

Washington Post,
163
,
212
–13

water buffaloes,
72
,
101

water chestnuts,
80
,
160
,
192

Webster, Daniel,
39
,
40
,
41
,
46

Webster, Fletcher,
46
,
48
,
51

the West.
See
American West

Western culinary traditions:

   American frontier,
118
,
137
,
138
,
139

   Chinese opinion of,
49
,
153
–54

   European,
12
,
14
,
44
–46,
54
,
92
,
132
–33

   French,
107
,
155
–56

   lack of adventurousness in,
14
,
54

   pan-North Atlantic,
2
–3

   “primal stew” of,
176

Western regional cuisine of China,
99

Whampoa, China,
6
,
26

wheat:

   cultivation of,
79
,
88
,
90
,
91

   and dough cookery,
88
–91

   gluten from,
89
–90

   milling of,
76
,
87
–88

   in northern cuisine,
99

Whitman, Walt,
157

“Who’ll Chop Your Suey When I’m Gone” (Bechet),
196

Whymper, Frederick,
117

Williams, Bert,
196

Williams, Samuel Wells,
32
–33,
34
,
55
–60

Williams, Sarah,
55

wines:

   Chinese,
82

   western,
2
,
5
,
12

   
See also
rice wine

Wodehouse, P.G.,
191

Wo Fat (restaurant),
206
,
207

wok
(cooking pot),
87

Wo Kee,
149
,
151

Wong Ching Foo,
152
–55,
159
,
160
–61

wontons,
89
,
154
,
210
,
216
,
219

Workingmen’s Party,
141