Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (38 page)

Wilson, Richard, ed.
The President’s Trip to China
. New York: Bantam Books, 1972.

Wimsatt, Genevieve.
A Griffin in China
. New York: Funk and Wagnalls, 1927.

Wines, E. C.
A Peep at China, in Mr. Dunn’s Chinese Collection
. Philadelphia: Nathan Dunn, 1839.

Wong Ching Foo. “Chinese Cooking.”
Boston Globe
, July 19, 1885, 9.

———. “Chinese Cooking.”
Brooklyn Eagle
, July 6, 1884, 4.

———. “The Chinese in New York.”
Cosmopolitan
, June 1888, 297.

Wood, W. W.
Sketches of China
. Philadelphia: Carey and Lee, 1830.

Wouk, Herman.
Marjorie Morningstar
. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1955, 58.

Wright, G. N.
China, in a Series of Views
. London: Fisher, 1848.

Wu Tingfang.
America, through the Spectacles of an Oriental Diplomat
. New York: Frederick A. Stokes, 1914.

Yan-kit So.
Classic Food of China
. London: Macmillan, 1992.

The Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine
. Trans. Ilza Veith. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1972.

Yuan Jing and Rowen K. Flad. “Pig Domestication in Ancient China.”
Antiquity
76, no. 293 (September 2002): 724–33.

Yutang, Lin.
My Country and My People
. New York: Reynal and Hitchcock, 1935.

Zito, Angela.
Of Body and Brush
. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1997.

Adams, John Quincy,
40

Africa,
3
,
19
,
20

African Americans,
114
,
169
,
173
,
176
,
189
,
196

agriculture:

   Chinese American,
121
–22,
121
–23,
135
,
137
,
138
,
151
,
170
,
171
,
207

   Chinese history of,
67
–73,
78
–79,
100
–102

Ah Ling,
151

Ah Wah,
151

alcohol:

   in American Chinese restaurants,
189
,
191
,
215
,
216

   in Chinese culinary tradition,
75
,
76
,
91
,
94

   and Prohibition,
189

   in western culinary tradition,
2
,
5
,
12
,
14
,
26
,
45
–46

   
See also
liquors; rice wine; wines

Allium
genus,
79
–80

Altar of Heaven,
77

Alton (IL) Evening Telegraph,
194
,
195

American history.
See
United States history

American Mutoscope and Biograph Company,
195

American Revolution,
4
,
10
–11,
22
,
24

Americans in China:

   early diplomats,
38
–52

   missionaries,
31
–35,
53
,
55
,
59
–63,
116
,
117

   Nixon and Kissinger,
224
–39

   tourists attending Olympics,
248
–50

   writings by,
33
–35,
56
–59,
62
–63

   
See also
American traders in China

American tastes:

   Chinese opinion of,
153
–54

   lack of adventurousness in,
14
,
118
,
137
,
139
,
249
–50,
251

   prejudice as influence on,
35
,
52
,
55
,
114
–15,
126
–27,
133
,
134
,
148
,
156

   
See also
Chinese food in America; chop suey

American traders in China:

   first visits,
1
–16,
25
–31,
36
,
250

   friendships with Europeans,
4
,
9
,
10
–13,
11
,
53

   isolation of,
7
–8,
13
,
26
,
28
–29,
34
,
35
,
53
–55

   languages used by,
9
–10,
29

   
trade goods,
1
–2,
15
,
25
–28,
36

   
See also
British traders; Chinese trade

American West:

   Chinese settlement of,
134
–40

   frontier diet in,
118
,
137
,
138
,
139

   gold rush,
102
,
107
–10,
112
–14,
115
,
134

   Mark Twain’s visit,
136

   racism in,
113
–17,
126
,
127
,
139
–43,
174
–75

   
See also
San Francisco

Amoy,
53

Annals of San Francisco,
114

apricots,
82

aquaculture.
See
fishing

Aramark,
250

archaeological sites:

   ancient Chinese,
71
,
72
,
76
,
81
,
84
,
86
,
88
,
89

   nineteenth century mining camp,
136
–37

Armstrong, Louis,
196

Arthur, Chester A.,
142

arts and entertainment:

   Chinese culture in,
168
,
187
–88,
191
,
195
–98,
200
–204,
214

   racism in,
139
–40,
196
–97

Atlanta, Ga.,
189

Ayres, Lew,
195
,
196

AZ (restaurant),
248

azuki beans,
80

bamboo shoots,
63
,
67
,
80
,
99
,
160
,
192
,
239

bamboo steamers,
84

bananas,
6
,
101

banquet fare:

   Cantonese,
209
–10

   gradations in,
93

banquets:

   in Chinese American restaurants,
104
–7,
124
–26,
129
–31,
206
,
209
–10,
220
,
240
–41

   in Chinese culinary tradition,
81
–82,
92
–94,
218

   etiquette of,
46
,
47
–48,
92
–93,
235
,
238

   in western culinary tradition,
44
–46,
54

   for western visitors to China,
13
–14,
29
–31,
33
–34,
47
–49,
224
–25,
237
–39

baozi
(stuffed bread),
89

Beach, Donn,
215

bean curd (tofu),
67
,
80
,
210

bean paste,
86

beans:

   azuki (red),
80

   black,
100

   cultivation of,
101

   fermentation of,
86
,
100

   mung,
91

bean sprouts,
160
,
192

bear’s paws,
93

bêche-de-mer,
,
27

   
See also
sea cucumbers

Bechet, Sidney,
196

beef:

   in Chinese cuisine,
80
,
251

   in western shipboard diet,
2
,
3

beer,
45
–46

Beijing (Peking):

   Boxer Rebellion,
165
–66

   cuisine of,
79
,
99
,
221

   imperial government in,
17
,
18
,
47
,
166

   Opium War,
36

   Summer Olympics (2008),
248
–49

Bergeron, Victor,
216

beverages, in Chinese cuisine,
91

   
See also
rice wine; tea

Biglar, John,
114
–15

bing
(kneaded flour foods),
88
–91

   
See also
breads; dumplings; noodles

birds’ nests:

   as Chinese delicacy,
23
,
28
,
48
,
50
–51,
58
,
61
,
98

   diners’ anecdotes,
33
,
48
,
105
,
136

   flavor of,
28

   as trade good,
28
,
93
–94

bird’s nest soup,
30
,
48
,
220

Bits of Old China
(Hunter),
44
–46

black beans,
100

Black Hills Gold Rush,
139

Blue Ginger,
248

Bohemians,
156
–59,
160
,
169
,
170
,
186

The Book of Rites
(Confucius),
73

Bossé, Sara Eaton,
186

Boston,
3
,
22
,
50
,
169
–70,
248

Boston Daily Globe,
169
–70,
177

Boston tea party,
22

Bowles, Samuel,
103
,
104
,
105
,
106
–7

“A Bowl of Chop Suey and You-ey,”
196
–97

Boxer Rebellion,
165
–66

Brassica
genus,
79
,
80

breads:

   flatbread,
221

   steamed,
88
,
89
,
95
,
99
,
130

   in western shipboard diet,
2

Bridgman, Elijah Coleman:

   as missionary to China,
31
–32,
60

   writings about China,
33
,
34
–35,
41
,
43
,
47

Britain:

   Opium War,
36
–37,
39
,
40
,
53

   Treaty of Nanking,
37
,
39

   
See also
Western culinary traditions

British East India Company,
8
–9,
12
–13,
22

British traders:

   commercial dominance of,
8
–9,
12
,
22
,
24
–25,
36
,
41
,
53

   Guangzhou factory of,
9
,
12
–13

   opium smuggling by,
36
,
53

   relationship with Americans,
10
–13,
53

   relationship with Chinese,
8
–9,
21
,
22
,
35
–36,
41
,
53
–55

bronze cookware,
73
–75,
75

Brooklyn Eagle,
153
,
164

Bross, William,
103
,
106

Buddhism,
19
,
153

Buddhist monks, culinary advances by,
89
–90,
92

cabbages:

   Chinese,
71
,
79
,
99
,
122
,
134

   as ships’ staple,
2

Caen, Herb,
221

cai,
79
–80

   
See also fan-cai
dichotomy

Calcutta,
9

Calcutta lamb,
216

California:

   in 1850s,
112
,
113
–14

   as Gold Mountain,
102
,
109

   gold rush,
102
,
107
–10,
112
–14,
115
,
134

   
See also
American West; San Francisco

Canton.
See
Guangzhou

Cantonese cuisine:

   in American restaurants,
123
–24,
209
–10,
216
,
218
–19

   
origins of,
99
–102

   
See also
dim sum

Cantonese language,
43

   “chop suey” from,
160

   and pidgin Chinese,
10

   teaching to barbarians,
29

   where spoken,
99
,
101

carp,
81

casseroles,
100

cassia,
85
,
134

cats:

   in Chinese cuisine,
23
,
24
,
231

   as stereotyped Chinese food,
58
–59,
151
–53