Baking with Less Sugar (26 page)
Read Baking with Less Sugar Online
Authors: Joanne Chang
MAKES
ONE
9-IN [23-CM] CROSTATA
ALMOND CREAM
- One 335-g/12-oz can frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
- 50 g/
1
/
2
cup almond flour - 55 g/4 Tbsp unsalted butter, at room
temperature - 1 large egg
- 1 Tbsp all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- Pinch of kosher salt
- 1
/
8
tsp ground cinnamon
- 3 medium Empire, McIntosh, Golden Delicious, Gala, or other sweet baking apples, peeled, cored, and cut into
1
/
8
-in [3-mm] slices - 125 g/
1
/
2
cup unsweetened applesauce - 1 Tbsp vanilla extract
- 1
/
4
tsp ground cinnamon - 1
/
8
tsp freshly grated nutmeg - Pâte Brisée
(see page 88) - 1 large egg
- 25 g/
1
/
4
cup sliced almonds
1. To make the almond cream:
In a small saucepan, bring the apple juice concentrate to a boil over medium-high heat, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 15 to 25 minutes, or until the juice reduces to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. It will thicken up slightly, become syrupy, and boil a little slower as it reduces. Watch out that it does not over-boil or burn; you may need to decrease the heat as it thickens. To check to see if it is reduced enough, every now and then pour the juice into a measuring cup to measure it; if it is not
3
/
4
cup [180 ml], pour it back into the saucepan to continue to simmer and reduce until it measures out to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl, and cool in the refrigerator until cold to the touch.
2.
In a small bowl, using a wooden spoon, stir together the almond flour, butter, egg, all-purpose flour, vanilla, salt, cinnamon, and
1
/
4
cup [60 ml] of the reduced apple juice (save the rest for later on in this recipe). Beat well until thoroughly combined. It may look a bit curdled but that is okay. The almond cream can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week; bring to room temperature before using.
3.
In a medium bowl, toss the apple slices with the remaining
1
/
2
cup [120 ml] reduced apple juice. In a small bowl, stir together the applesauce, vanilla, cinnamon, and nutmeg.Set both bowls aside.
4.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
5.
On a well-floured work surface, roll out the pastry dough into a circle about 12 in [30 cm] in diameter. Transfer the dough circle to the prepared baking sheet. (You are going to assemble the crostata directly on the baking sheet so that you don't have to move it once it is finished to bake it.) Brush off any loose flour from the dough, and spread the almond cream evenly in the center of the dough in a circle about 7 in [18 cm] in diameter, leaving a border of about 2
1
/
2
in [6 cm] of exposed dough all around. Spread the flavored applesauce evenly over the almond cream. Arrange the apple slices in concentric circles on top of the applesauce, layering and overlapping the slices on top of each other as needed to use all of the apples. Brush the tops of the apples with any leftover juice from the bowl. Starting at one side, fold up the exposed dough towards the center and then continue around the crostata, folding up the exposed dough toward the center, leaving the fruit exposed in the center and pleating the dough as you go to create a pretty free-form tart. Refrigerate the crostata, lightly covered with plastic wrap, for at least 1 hour or up to 1 day before baking to relax the dough.
6.
Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F [175°C].
7.
Crack the egg into a small bowl and whisk well; using a pastry brush, brush the egg wash all over the top of the pastry dough. Sprinkle the dough evenly with the almonds. Bake the crostata for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the dough is deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 30 to 45 minutes on a wire rack. Cut into slices and serve. The crostata can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days; for best eating, rewarm in a 300°F [150°C] oven for 10 to 12 minutes.
Flour is somewhat famous for its carrot cake. Or maybe it's just that it is my husband, Christopher's, most favorite Flour cake, so in my mind it's the most famous cake we have. Countless special occasions have been celebrated at the Chang-Myers household with a slice of carrot cake and two forks. (Yes, I suppose we could each get our own slice, but I always think the cake is going to be a present for Christopher and then I simply can't help but join in.)
So when it came time to try and develop a low-sugarâmake that
no
-sugarâversion of this cake, I knew I had my work cut out for me. Flour's carrot cake is decidedly one of the sweeter things we offer; the cake itself is sweet and the frosting has a fair amount of sugar in it as well. How could I get the same luscious, rich, addictive flavor without using any sugar? Could I create a cake that would be as good as the one that Christopher adores? It turns out that, using a few tricks up my sleeve, the answer is YES! Apple juice concentrate acts as the sweetener here along with pineapple juice that is reduced down until syrupy. The pineapple is naturally sweet, and two kinds of raisins help make your mind think this cake is laden with sugar. The frosting is a variation of a cream cheese frosting that my pastry chef Sarah used when making her own wedding cake. It's creamy, tangy, and lightly sweetened with more reduced apple juice. You'll feel good about making this cake for your familyâand I feel great about bringing this home, not just for special occasions, but for every occasion.
MAKES
ONE
DOUBLE-LAYER 8-IN [20-CM] CAKE
CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
- One 335-g/12-oz can frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
- 225 g/8 oz cream cheese, at room temperature
- 480 g/2 cups heavy cream
- 1
/
2
tsp ground cinnamon - 2 tsp vanilla extract
- 1
/
8
tsp kosher salt
CARROT CAKE
- 75 g/
3
/
4
cup walnuts, coarsely chopped - 120 g/
3
/
4
cup raisins - 120 g/
3
/
4
cup sultanas (golden raisins) - One 335-g/12-oz can frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
- One 225-g/8-oz can pineapple chunks, in their own juices
- 4 large eggs
- 120 g/
1
/
2
cup crème fraîche
(see page 24) - 120 g/
1
/
2
cup whole milk - 250 g/1
1
/
4
cups vegetable oil - 1 Tbsp vanilla extract
- 315 g/2
1
/
4
cups all-purpose flour - 2
1
/
2
tsp baking powder - 1
/
2
tsp baking soda - 1
/
2
tsp kosher salt - 1 Tbsp ground cinnamon
- 2 tsp ground ginger
- 1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- 130 g/1 cup tightly packed peeled and shredded carrots
- Fresh fruit or chopped, toasted walnuts for garnish
1. At least 4 hours in advance, make the frosting:
In a small saucepan, bring the apple juice concentrate to a boil; decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the juice reduces to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. It will thicken up, become syrupy, and boil a little slower as it reduces. Watch out that it does not over-boil or burn; you may need to decrease the heat as it thickens. To check to see if it is reduced enough, every now and then pour the juice into a measuring cup to measure it; if it is not
3
/
4
cup [180 ml], pour it back into the saucepan to continue to simmer and reduce until it measures out to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. Remove from the heat, transfer from the pan into a bowl, and cool in the refrigerator until cold to the touch.
2.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or an electric hand mixer), whip the cream cheese and
1
/
2
cup [120 ml] of the reduced apple juice concentrate on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, or until it is light and fluffy, scraping the bowl occasionally with a rubber spatula to get all of the cream cheese whipped up. (Reserve the rest of the apple juice for another use such as adding it to oatmeal or drizzling on ice cream, or discard.) Slowly drizzle in the cream and beat on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the cream thickens and combines with the cream cheese mixture. Add the cinnamon, vanilla, and salt and mix until well combined. Scrape the frosting into an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 3 days. The frosting needs to firm up before you can use it. You will have about 4 cups [960 ml] of frosting.
3. To make the cake:
Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F [175°C]. Butter and flour two 8-in [20-cm] round cake pans, or butter the pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper.
4.
Put the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, or until lightly toasted. Set aside to cool.
5.
Put the raisins and sultanas in a small bowl and pour hot water over to cover. Let sit for 30 minutes, then drain.
6.
In a medium saucepan, combine the apple juice concentrate and the juice from the pineapple chunks. Chop the pineapple into small pieces and set aside in a bowl. Bring the juices to a boil over medium-high heat, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the liquid reduces to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. It will thicken up, become syrupy, and boil a little slower as it reduces. Watch out that it does not over-boil or burn; you may need to decrease the heat as it thickens. To check to see if it is reduced enough, every now and then pour the juice into a measuring cup to measure it; if it is not
3
/
4
cup [180 ml], pour it back into the saucepan to continue to simmer and reduce until it measures out to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl, and cool in the refrigerator until cold to the touch.
7.
In a large bowl, whisk together the apple juice concentrate, eggs, crème fraîche, milk, vegetable oil, vanilla, and reserved chopped pineapple until well combined. In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, carrots, raisins, sultanas, and walnuts. Add to the egg mixture and fold together with a rubber spatula until well combined.
8.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pans, dividing equally. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the cakes are light brown (they won't color as much as a full-sugar cake) and spring back when you touch them in the center with your finger. They will not dome very much, if at all. Remove the cakes from the oven and let cool on a wire rack until you can pop them out of the pans. When the cakes are completely, totally cool (if they are at all warm, the frosting will melt off and it will be a mess), remove them from the pans. Using a long serrated knife, trim the tops of the cakes so they are level (they don't usually round too much but it's nice to level them off if they do). Place one cake on a plate or cake pedestal (use a cake turner if you have one), and spoon about 1 cup [240 ml] chilled frosting on top; using an offset spatula, spread the frosting evenly all the way to the edges of the cake.