Baking with Less Sugar (24 page)
Read Baking with Less Sugar Online
Authors: Joanne Chang
SERVES
8
TO
10
- One 335-g/12-oz can frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
- 225 g/8 oz cream cheese, at room temperature
- 120 g/
1
/
2
cup crème fraîche
(see page 24) - 480 g/2 cups heavy cream
- 2 tsp vanilla extract
- 1
/
8
tsp kosher salt - 520 g/4 cups strawberries, hulled and quartered (halved if the berries are small)
1.
In a small saucepan, bring the apple juice concentrate to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the juice reduces to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. It will thicken up, become syrupy, and boil a little slower as it reduces. Watch out that it does not over-boil or burn; you may need to decrease the heat as it thickens. To check to see if it is reduced enough, every now and then pour the juice into a measuring cup to measure it; if it is not
3
/
4
cup [180 ml] pour it back into the saucepan to continue to simmer and reduce until it measures out to
3
/
4
cup [180 ml]. Remove from the heat and cool in the refrigerator until cold to the touch.
2.
Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or with an electric hand mixer), whip together the cream cheese and
1
/
2
cup [120 ml] of the reduced apple juice concentrate (reserve the rest of the apple juice for another use or discard) on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mixture is light and fluffy, scraping the bowl occasionally with a rubber spatula to get all of the cream cheese whipped up. Add the crème fraîche and whip together to combine. Slowly drizzle in the cream and beat, still on medium speed, for 1 to 2 minutes more, or until the cream thickens and combines with the cream cheese mixture. Whisk in the vanilla and salt.
3.
Fold the strawberries into the cream cheese mixture, saving a few spoonfuls of berries to garnish the top of the fools. Portion the fools into bowls or glasses and top each with a generous spoonful of strawberries. Serve immediately or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 hours.
Creamy coconut tapioca pudding with glazed pineapple is one of the desserts I obsessed over when I lived in New York City and worked for François Payard. All of the cooks at Payard Patisserie spent our free time talking about the places we dreamed of going and the dishes we couldn't wait to try. One of the cooks told me about how Claudia Fleming, at the time the pastry chef at Gramercy Tavern, had created a dreamy tapioca that could not be missed. He was rightâon one of my last nights in NYC, I was finally able to try it, and thereafter every time I went to visit NYC, I made a point of going back to order it again. Sadly, it's no longer on the menu, but I've channeled it here in this version. It's light and refreshing and uses the natural sugars of mango, pineapple, and apple juice to complement the richness of the coconut milk.
SERVES
4
OR
5
- 480 g/2 cups whole milk
- One 380-g/13.5-oz can unsweetened coconut milk
- 2 tsp vanilla extract
- 80 g/
1
/
2
cup small pearl tapioca - 1
/
4
pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into small dice, or one 225-g/8-oz can pineapple chunks, in their own juices, chopped into smaller pieces - One 335-g/12-oz can frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
- 1 vanilla bean
- 1
/
4
tsp kosher salt - 1 large or 2 small mangoes, peeled, pitted, and diced
- Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1.
In a small saucepan, combine the milk, coconut milk, and vanilla and bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Stir in the tapioca, decrease the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, or until the tapioca is softened. The tapioca will become translucent and will no longer have a white center when it is fully cooked.
2.
Meanwhile, put the pineapple (either fresh or canned with juice) and the apple juice concentrate in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and scrape the seeds into the juice.
3.
Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer the juice and fruit for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the juice becomes thick and syrupy. It will thicken up and boil a little slower as it reduces. Watch out that it does not over-boil or burn; you may need to decrease the heat as it thickens. Remove from the heat and strain the pineapple from the juice. Put the pineapple in a bowl and refrigerate until chilled.
4.
Remove the tapioca from the heat and stir in the reduced juice and the salt. Transfer the tapioca mixture to a bowl, cover lightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until it cools completely, at least 3 hours or up to overnight.
5.
Right before serving, fold about half of the diced mango and the lime juice into the tapioca. Divide the pudding evenly into clear glasses. Fold the remaining mango into the reserved chopped pineapple. Spoon the fruit on top of the pudding to cover in an even layer. Garnish with a little grated lime zest. Serve immediately.
Growing up, we so rarely had dessert (unless you count a plate of oranges . . . whoo-weee, what a TREAT!) that on the very few occasions when my mom actually made something sweet, it was cause for amazement and wonder in my brother and me. Known as “almond jelly” or “almond tofu,” this popular Taiwanese treat is a Jell-Oâlike custard usually seen in rolling carts at dim sum restaurants. Sometimes it's made with agar-agar and sometimes with soy milk. My mom made hers old-school style, with gelatin, milk, sugar, and almond extract and topped it with Del Monte fruit cocktail; we called it white Jell-O. Both the making of it with Mom and eating it with my brother are among my favorite childhood food memories. I wanted to re-create a no-sugar version that also was dairy-free by making my own almond milk. The dates sweeten the homemade almond milk just enough, and you use just a smidge of almond extract to accentuate the almond flavor. Instead of canned fruits in heavy syrup, these light, refreshing custards are topped with a simple plum and grape compote mixed with a little grape juice.
SERVES
4
- 240 g/1
1
/
2
cups whole natural (unblanched) almonds - 180 g/
3
/
4
cup pitted and chopped Medjool dates - 1
/
2
tsp baking soda - 1
/
2
tsp vanilla extract - 1
/
4
tsp almond extract - 1
/
2
tsp kosher salt - 2
1
/
2
tsp granulated unflavored gelatin
PLUM-GRAPE COMPOTE
- 3 medium black or red plums, halved, pitted, and thinly sliced
- 60 g/
1
/
4
cup frozen grape juice concentrate (defrost to measure) - 80 g/
1
/
2
cup seedless red or green grapes, halved - 1
/
4
tsp almond extract
1.
Soak the almonds in 3 cups [720 ml] cold water overnight at room temperature in a covered container. Drain the almonds the next day and place in a blender with 3 cups [720 ml] fresh cold water. Put the dates and baking soda in a small bowl and add enough hot water to cover the dates. Stir to dissolve the baking soda; it will soften the skins of the dates, allowing them to blend more easily into the almonds. Let the dates soak for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain the dates and add to the blender. Whir in the blender for 3 full minutes on high speed. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a 4-cup [960-ml] measuring cup. Strain through the lined strainer into the measuring cup. Squeeze the almond meal to get all of the milk out of the almondsâyou should get 2
1
/
2
to 3 cups [600 to 720 ml] almond milk. Add the vanilla, almond extract, and salt and stir well.
2.
Remove about
1
/
2
cup [120 ml] of the almond milk, place in a medium bowl, and evenly sprinkle with the gelatin to soften it. (This is called blooming the gelatin and will allow it to properly dissolve in the rest of the liquid.) Warm the remaining almond milk in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch and stir it into the softened gelatin until the gelatin completely dissolves. Divide into 4 serving bowls or cups. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 3 hours, or up to 4 days.
3. Meanwhile, make the compote:
In a small saucepan over medium heat, simmer the plums with the grape juice concentrate for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the plums are softened and the juice thickens a bit. Remove from the heat and stir in the grapes. Add the almond extract and let cool. The compote can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
4.
Spoon the compote over the chilled panna cottas and serve.
Light and refreshing, this pretty, elegant dessert is a cinch to put together. Because both the granita and the pears are made in advance, it is also easy to prepare ahead of time. The granita is stored in the freezer and the poached pears in the refrigerator, allowing you to pull all together as a last-minute dessert for friends and family. I've suggested my favorite fall fruits to go with the orange granita, but feel free to substitute other fruits as you wish. I've made this with apples, apricots, and grapes as well as with quince, figs, and raspberries.
SERVES
6
TO
8
- 1.4 kg/6 cups orange juice (preferably freshly squeezed)
- 420 g/1
3
/
4
cups apple juice - 1
/
2
vanilla bean or 2 tsp vanilla extract - 120 g/
1
/
2
cup water - 2 ripe medium Anjou, Bartlett, or other soft, sweet pears, peeled, cored, and cut into eighths
- 160 g/1 cup dried cranberries
- 1 ruby red grapefruit
- 2 seedless oranges
- 6 to 8 fresh mint leaves, thinly sliced (optional)
1.
In a medium saucepan, bring the orange juice to a boil over medium- high heat. Decrease the heat to medium and boil gently, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes, or until reduced by half. Stir in 180 g/
3
/
4
cup of the apple juice and let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a freezer-proof, airtight container and freeze for at least 8 hours or up to overnight. (The granita can be made up to 2 weeks in advance and stored in the freezer.)
2.
With a paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise down the middle and scrape out the seeds into a small saucepan. (If using vanilla extract, add it later, along with the fruit.) Whisk in the remaining 240 g/1 cup apple juice and the water and bring just to a boil over medium- high heat. Remove from the heat and add the pears and cranberries (and vanilla extract, if using), submerging them in the poaching liquid. Cover and set aside for 1 hour, then transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours. (The fruit may be made up to a week in advance and stored in the refrigerator.)
3.
Remove the granita from the freezer and set aside at room temperature for 15 minutes, or until scraping a spoon across the surface produces crystalline ice shavings. Meanwhile, cut off the skin and pith of the grapefruit and oranges. Using a sharp knife, cut between the pith and remove the citrus segments. Mix into the chilled poached fruits. Transfer the ice shavings to bowls and, using a slotted spoon, arrange some fruit on top of each serving. (Save the poaching liquid for another use such as mixing with seltzer water and ice for a refreshing light drink, if you'd like.) Garnish with the mint (if using) and serve immediately.