Baking with Less Sugar
Read Baking with Less Sugar Online
Authors: Joanne Chang
To Christopher, my everything.
Text copyright © 2015 by Joanne Chang.
Photographs copyright © 2015 by Joseph De Leo.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-4521-3960-9 (epub, mobi)
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication
Data available.
ISBN 978-1-4521-3300-3 (hc)
Designed by Alice Chau
Food styling by Molly Shuster
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
What's behind the science of sweets?
17
CHAPTER ONE
REDUCING WHITE SUGAR
31
Better than Flour Famous Banana Bread
40
Cameron's Lemon-Polenta-Pistachio Buttons
44
White ChocolateâCherry-Almond Cookies
47
Oatmeal-Raisin-Cranberry Cookies
50
Coconut Chiffon Cake with Coconut Glaze
59
Yellow Birthday Cake with Fluffy Chocolate Ganache Frosting
62
Double Chocolate Whoopie Pies
72
Bittersweet Chocolate Pots de Crème
75
Chocolate FudgeâBourbon Ice Cream
78
Mint Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwiches
80
Mocha Shaved Ice with Vanilla Cream
84
Deep-Dark-Chocolate Pudding Cakes
87
Cranberry-Orange-Walnut Biscotti
98
Nutty-Seedy-Fruity Energy Bars
100
Banana Cinnamon Bread Pudding
103
Honey-Champagne Sabayon Parfaits with Fresh Berries
105
Raspberry Honey Frozen Yogurt
106
Peanut Butter Honey Cookies
108
Lemon Ricotta Cupcakes with Fluffy Lemon Frosting
116
CHAPTER FOUR
BAKING WITH MAPLE SYRUP AND MOLASSES
123
Maple-Bacon-Cheddar Biscuits
124
Cranberry-Cornmeal-Maple Bread
128
Pumpkin-Apple Spice Muffins
130
Keith's Super-Snappy Gingersnaps
132
Sticky Toffee Pudding with Maple Sauce
135
Old-Fashioned Indian Pudding
138
Pumpkin-Walnut Cheesecake Bars
156
Pecan-Date Shortbread Cookies
158
Strawberry Cream Cheese Fool
166
Coconut Tapioca with Pineapple, Mango, and Lime
169
Almond Milk Panna Cotta with Plum-Grape Compote
172
Orange Granita with Pears, Cranberries, and Citrus
174
Pineapple-Coconut-Banana Sorbet
177
Unbelievable Banana Ice Cream
178
Summer Peach Dumplings with Almonds and Whipped Cream
179
Mixed Berry Cobbler with Crème Fraîche
182
French Apple-Almond Crostata
184
Carrot-Pineapple Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting
187
Life is sweet. It is. It's not always easy. It's not without ups and downs, triumphs and tragedies. But LIFE
IS
SWEET. Why do I make this declaration? Because I've taken these simple words, swallowed them whole, and used them as words to live by. For as long as I can remember, no matter what my mood or what I'm feeling, it only takes
a
bite of something wonderful and sweet to make all seem right in the world. Baking is my life and I choose it every day as my path and my passion. On some level, my life is simply that simple.
Every morning, I walk into Flour and I stop for a moment to take in the full breadth of our morning bake-off. It's fourteen years and running, and it still makes me giddy at how gorgeous a full counter of beautifully prepared baked goods can be. It never gets old. I look around and I truly want to eat
all
of it. The counter is overrun with warm brioche neatly arranged on serving trays, sugary fruity muffins piled high in baskets, chewy oversized cookies lined up on platters, comforting quick breads stacked one on top of another. I look to the bakers and see the most lovely facesâfocused, serious, committed, sometimes silly, sometimes exhaustedâand I think Willy Wonka is alive and well at Flour Bakery. I'm happy.
Maybe the complexities of life can't all be reduced to a cookie . . . but a well-made cookie can sure bring some music into it. For me, the connection between baking sweets and happiness runs long and strong and it is indelible. If you're holding this book, then that connectionâsweetness and happinessâmore than likely is a powerful one for you as well. Whether you start the day with coffee and a brioche, or reward yourself for making it through three-quarters of your work day with a cookie or half cupcake, or maybe you commemorate a friend's new venture with a gussied-up and decadent midnight chocolate cakeâeach of these situations shows how naturally we intertwine sweetness and happiness. Even in sorrow we might take refuge in a bowl (okay, pint) of Häagen-Dazs coffee. Sometimes the sweetness of that ice cream is exactly what it takes to wait out that agonizing soon-to-be ex's %#^$ phone call.
I am and always have been so committed to the notion that bringing sweetness into the world simply makes life better that I have made it my life's work. I had a moreâthan-stable and respectable job in business consulting. I traded it in to peddle pastry and desserts. NOT what you do when your parents immigrate to America, work their tails off to give you the best education on the planet, scrimp and save and sacrifice. No matter what I tried to focus on or what my parents subtlyâor not so subtlyâsuggested (be a doctor, be a lawyer, what about medicine? what about law?), my dreams persistently ran to mounds of butter, mountains of flour, and ultimately, hills of sugar: the glorious trifecta of baked goods. It's such a part of my DNA to indulge in sweetness from the moment I wake up until I fall asleep that I made it my bakery's motto: Make Life Sweeter, Eat Dessert First!
A connection that runs just as deeply as that between sweetness and happiness is the relationship between sugar and sweetness. And, by the transitive property, then sugar must be the sine qua non of creating happiness, right? Well if
you're a classically trained pastry chef, then yes. Absolutely. Of course. Or at least so I thought.