97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement (33 page)

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Authors: Jane Ziegelman

Tags: #General, #Cooking, #19th Century, #History: American, #United States - State & Local - General, #United States - 19th Century, #Social History, #Lower East Side (New York, #Emigration & Immigration, #Social Science, #Nutrition, #New York - Local History, #New York, #N.Y.), #State & Local, #Agriculture & Food, #Food habits, #Immigrants, #United States, #Middle Atlantic, #History, #History - U.S., #United States - State & Local - Middle Atlantic, #New York (State)

BOOK: 97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement
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28. Baldizzi family recipe.

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Searchable Terms

The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.

Academy of Arts, 40, 41

Age of Migration, xi

Ainsworth’s Magazine
, 78

alcohol consumption, in New York, 31-32

alcohol production, in United States, 31-32

ale, English, 32

Aleichem, Sholem, 174-175

Allaire Iron Works, 6

Allaire, James, 6

Amchanitzki, Hinde, 158-159

America, abundance of, 191

American food traditions, and Irish servants, 54-55

Americanization:

of immigrants, 165-166
and school lunchrooms, 165-166

Americans:

as pie-eaters, xiv attitude toward alcohol, 34
attitude toward Italian immigrants, 187-188
attraction to German foods, 41
dislike for Italian food, 217-218
introduction of immigrants foods, xiv
love of spaghetti, 223-225

Ansche Chesed (synagogue), 95

anti-Semitism, 133

apartments, at 97 Orchard, 7

arancini
(rice balls), 210

The Art of Jewish Cooking
, 151-152

Ashkenazi Jews, culinary traditions, 88-91

Astor, John Jacob, as tenement investor, 5-6

Atlantic Gardens beer hall, 35-36

“Aunt Babette” (Bertha Kramer), 101, 110, 111

Aunt Babette’s Cook Book
(Bertha Kramer), 97-98, 122

The Auxiliary Cook Book
(Hebrew Sheltering Guardian Society), 101

baccala
(salt codfish), recipe, 226

bacon, and Jews, 98

bakeries, German, description, 27-28

bakers, German, 27-31

Baldizzi family:

and bread, 210
and Depression, 199
Christmas dinner, 226-227
life, xi, 184, 197-200, 212
meals, 199-200
move to Brooklyn, 225-226

Baldizzi, Adolfo, 197-198, 212-213, 225

Baldizzi, John, 199

Baldizzi, Josephine, 199, 212

Baldizzi, Rosaria, 197-200, 212-213, 225-227

bananas, 127

banquets:

German, 43, 80
German-Jewish, 121-122
Irish-American, 80
medieval, 91
messianic, 91-92
Thanksgiving, 130-131

Beecher, Miss, 70

“beef an” (corned beef and beans), 73

beer halls:

food served at, 36
German, xiv, 34-36, 42
Signs, 27

beer production, New York, 31-32

beer, German:

as family drink, 34-36,
at picnics, 44-45
bock, 25
Germany, 22, 31-36
lager, 33, 44-45

Bennet, James Gordon, 73

berches
(Jewish ritual bread), 91

Beyer, Annie, 141

Beyer, Joseph, 141

“beygals” (bagels), xiv

Black Hand, 188

blintzes, 106, 156

Bloch Printing, 98

Bloch, Edward, 98

Blood of My Blood
(Richard Gambino), 195

boarders, 142

boardinghouse dwellers, as “hash eaters,” 70-71

boardinghouses:

cuisine of, 70-71
food supplies of, 17
immigrant, 66-70
Irish, 67-70
Italian, 186
kitchens, 69
landladies, 69-70
New York, 1, 221

Bohemians, New York, 37-39

bondes
(potato dish), 109

book vendors, pushcart market, 158

borscht, 147

The Boston Cooking School Cook Book
, 224

bouillon cubes, 187

Bowery, the, 20-21, 35-36

boycott, meat, 178-179

bread crumbs, 210-212

bread peddlers, 208-209

bread:

German, 28
importance to Sicilians, 207-212
Sicilian, 209-210
symbolism, 208
traditions in New York, 28
Vienna, 29-30

Breakstone & Levine, 152

breweries, 32-33

brewers, German, 32-33

A Brief Account of the Author’s Interview with His Countrymen
(Jeremiah O’Donovan), 67-68

Brieneh, Hannah (fictional character), 181

“Bringing Up Father,” 81

Brooklyn Eagle
, 10

Brooklyn:

Baldizzi family in, 225-226
Sicilians in, 195, 208

brothels, 52-53

Brown, Mary, 52

Browne, Junius Henri, 15

burial societies, German, 22

butchers, signs, 26-27

butter, Irish and, 58, 63

butter, Jews and, 111

buttermilk, 60

cabbage, 61, 78

caciocavallo
(Italian cheese), 194

cafés:

as political clubs, 175-176
East Side, xiv
Hungarian Jewish, 172-174
kibitzing in, 174-175
Russian Jewish, 174-175
Sicilian, 222

cakes, German, 30-31

campanilismo
(Italian love of hometown), 222

candy factories, 201-204

candy, Italian, 200, 204-207

carp, in Jewish cuisine, 83-84, 86-87

Castle Garden, 63-64

Catherine the Great, 132-133

census:

1850, 2-4
1870, 3
1880, 4
history of, 3-4
Irish, 59
pushcart, 145

Centennial Exhibition (Philadelphia), 29

challah bread, 87, 90, 91, 155, 156

challah recipe, 157-158

Chanales, Lillian, 180

charity, stigma, 154-155

Chicago Tribune
, 224

chicken fat, 118

chicken market, Lower East Side, 117

chicken noodle soup, 107

children:

German, and beer, 34-35
Lower East Side, as firewood collectors, xiii

Chinese railroad workers, and food, 187

cholent, 103, 141

chop suey, farmer’s, 147

chopped liver, vegetarian, recipe, 179-180

Chotzinoff, Samuel, 170

Christmas
baccala
(salt codfish), recipe, 226

Christmas dinner, Italian, 226-227

Christmas traditions:

German in America, 25
New York, 79-80

Cincinnati, 97, 98, 100

Citizens’ Association, 114

Clapp, Henry, 38

“coffee and cake shops,” 71-72

coffee cake:

German, 30-31
recipe, 30-31

coffee, Hungarian Jews and, 172-173

Cohen, Fannie, 155-158

Collect pond, 5

confectioners, Italian, 204

confetti
(Italian candy), 200, 204

Congregation Emanuel (synagogue), 86

contadini
(Southern Italian peasants), 195

cookbooks:

German-Jewish, 91, 110
Jewish, 98, 158-159

cooking classes, settlement house, 160-165

cooks, boardinghouse, 17, 70

cooks, Ellis Island, 139-140

Cooper, John, 89

Cork, Ireland, 58, 77

corned beef, 70

corned beef and cabbage, 76-82, 129

Council Cook Book
(Council of Jewish Women), 101

The Country Housewife’s Family Companion
(William Elllis), 77

courtyards, tenement, 1-2, 7

credit, buying on, 14

Crisco Recipes for the Jewish Housewife
(Procter & Gamble), 118

Crisco, 118

croccante
(almond brittle), recipe, 206-207

Cromwell, Oliver, 56

Crusades, 89

cucuzza
(Italian squash), 216

Daily Forward
, 104, 146

dairy foods, Irish, 56, 57

dairy restaurants, Jewish, 177-180

dandelion-pickers, Italian, xiii dandelions, wild, 215-216

Davidis, Henrietta, 9, 12, 26

De Voe, Thomas, on markets, 15-17

DeCasseres, Benjamin, 40-41

“delicatessen habit,” 167-168

delicatessens:

and East European Jews, 169-170
aromas, 169
backlash against, 167-168
German, 19
herring dishes at, 19-20
New York, 166-171
products, 167

Delmonico’s, 37

deportees, love of Ellis Island food, 130

Deutsche Bund
(“German League”), 21

Deutsche-Amerikanische Schutzengesellchaft
, 43

Diner, Hasia, 59

dining room, Ellis Island, 126-131

dining rooms, German-Jewish, 99

dinner staples, nineteenth-century America, xiv

dinners, German-Jewish, 104-106, 121, 122

Dinty Moore’s, 81

Dolan, Patrick, 72-74

Dolan’s Restaurant, 72-74

domestic science movement:

and delicatessens, 167-168
and immigrant food, 163-166
and Italian immigrants, 193
United States, 160-161, 224

doughnuts, 73

dumplings:

accompaniments, 110
German 12-13, 21
green, recipe, 12-13
potato, 109-111

Dutch Reformed Presbyterian Church, 4

East European Jews, and delicatessens, 169

East Prussia:

culinary traditions, 102-103
history, 93-94
Jews, 94

Easter, Little Italy, 204

Eat and Be Satisfied
(John Cooper), 89

eating habits, Jewish immigrant, 149-151

Educational Alliance, 160, 162

egg vendors, 107

eggplants in the oven, recipe, 217

Elizabeth Street, 198, 209

Ellis Island:

as “island of tears,” 131
as molder of future citizens, 132
deportees, 126
description, 125-132
detainees, 125-126, 132
dining room, 126-131
dormitories, 126
food contractors at, 127-128
inspection of new arrivals at, 136
kosher food at, 135-140
lunch stand, 127, 134
poor treatment of immigrants at, 131-132
reforms at, 132

employment agencies, 52-53

England, interference in Ireland, 56

English culture in New York, 48

Enlightenment, Jewish, 95-96

Ermich’s, 36

Essex Market, 19

ethnic biases, against Italians, 187-193

Europe:

Age of Migration in, xi
medieval food culture, 88
potatoes, 107-108

European immigration, peak, 125

The Fair Cook Book
(Congregation Emanuel), 86-87

family supper, Italian, 195-196

famines, Ireland, 48, 59

The Famous Cook Book
(Congregation Temple de Hirsch), 100, 110

Farmer, Fannie, 9, 224

farms:

Ireland, 56-57
Italian, 216

fat:

chicken, 118
hydrogenated, 118
Jewish use of, 111-113

feast foods, Italian, 196-197

feste
(Italian festivals), 204-206

Fifth Avenue Hotel, 80

Fine & Schapiro, 169

First Principles of Household Management
, 71

fish hash, recipe, 71

Fishel, Harry, 136-137

Fisher’s Alley, 23

Five Points (neighborhood), 5, 20, 65-66, 220

flavors, Jewish food, 149-151

Fleischmann, Louis, 29-30

Fleischmann’s Instant Yeast, 30

foie gras, 114, 116

foie gras, faux, recipe, 116

food:

customs, European, in America, xiv-xv
distribution, shadow economy, 191
expenses, Irish immigrants, 62-63
exports, Ireland, 57-58, 77
laws, Jewish,
see
kashruth
merchants, Lower East Side, 180-181
peddlers, Dublin, 78-79
rackets, 115, 231-232n
sharing, 152-157
stores, Lower East Side, 152
trades, ethnic, 27
sacredness of in Jewish culture, 119

food-joy, Jewish, 119-122

Foods of the Foreign-Born in Relation to Health
(Bertha Wood), 149

foods, forbidden, 95-101

force-feeding, geese, 112

Foster, George, 76

14th Street, as entertainment district, 39-40

frankfurters, 22, 26, 41, 169, 170

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