97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement (34 page)

Frederick the Great, 108

Frishwasser, Regina, 146-147

fruit, at pushcart markets, 147

Fulton Market, 14, 18

Gabel, Paul, 166-167

“Gallery of Missing Husbands,” 104

Gambino, Richard, 195, 207

gardens, home, 216

garment industry, home workers, 202

gefilte fish, 87-88, 91-93, 103, 155-156

gefilte fish recipe, 92-93

Gellis, Isaac, 169

generosity, of tenement dwellers, 154-157

Gentile, Maria, 206, 217

German foods:

in East Prussia, 103

transmission to Americans, 41

German immigrants, biases against, 191-192

German Jews,

arrival in New York, 98

delicatessens, 168-169

holiday foods, 105-106

poor, foods of, 106-107

Sabbath observances, 96

secular education, 96

use of potatoes, 107-111

Germans:

and alcohol, 34

as model immigrants, 37

bakers, 27-31

breweries, 32-33

culinary footprint in America, 55

dialects, 21

dinners, 118-119

dumplings, 12-13

food trades, 27

grocers, 13-14

lunch rooms, 36-37

markets, 2

meeting halls, 42-43

noodles, 12-13

northern, as fish eaters, 19

pancakes recipe, 39

picnics, 44-45

regional loyalties, 21-22

relish of food, 37

restaurants, 37-42

saloons, 34

seasonal food traditions, 24-25

social clubs, 42-45

Germany, corned beef in, 77-78

Germany, nineteenth century, 21

Germany, regional food traditions, 22

gifts, food, 152-157

Glockner children, 2, 4

Glockner family, xi, 6, 8-9, 41, 45

Glockner, Caroline, 4

Glockner, Edward, 4

Glockner, Lucas:

arrival in New York, 3

as property owner, 4, 5, 7

as tailor, 4

builds 97 Orchard, 7

census records of, 2, 4

life, 2-9

Glockner, Wihelmina:

life, 2, 4

food shopping, 13-14, 19

Glockner, William, 4

golkes
(potato dumplings), 109

goose fat, 113, 117

goose products, delicatessen, 168

goose, Jewish farms, 112-117

goose-farmers, Jewish, xiii

goose-feeding, 112

Graham, Reverend Sylvester, 178

Grand Street public market, 14

Grant, Madison, 192

Great Depression, 199

Great Famine, 59, 60

“Great Hunger” in Ireland, 59

The Great Metropolis
(Junius Henry Browne), 15

Greeley, Horace, 72

grocery stores:

German, 13-14

Italian, 194, 222, 223

Grossinger, Jennie, 151-152

“growlers” (pails of beer), 34

Gumpertz children, 84

Gumpertz family, xi

Gumpertz, Julius, 84-85, 103-104

Gumpertz, Natalie (Reinsberg), 6, 83-85, 93, 101-104, 123-124

ham, Jews and, 99

hamburgers, 37, 41

Hanrahan, Jane Moore, 65

Hanrahan, Roger Joseph, 65

Hanukkah, 113

Harland, Henry, 121

Harlem, 205-206

harvest rituals, sauerkraut, 24

hasenpfeffer
(wild rabbit stew), recipe, 10-11

hash, 70-71

Haskalah (Jewish Enlightenment), 95-96

Hebrew Immigrant Aid Society (HIAS), 135-136

Hebrew Sheltering Guardian Society, 101

Hebrew Union College, 98, 100

Heinz, Henry J., 25

Henry Street Settlement, 154, 163

herrings, 19

herring salad, recipe, 19-20

Herzfeld, Elsa, 154

Hester Street market, 85-86, 106

holidays, Italian, 204

Home Relief, 199

home workers, tenement, 202

horseradish, 87, 92

hot dogs, 22, 169

hotel dining rooms, New York, 79-80

Houdini, Harry, 147

Housekeeper and Healthkeeper
(Miss Beecher), 70

housewives:

and domestic science movement, 160-161

and servants, 53-54

at pushcart markets, 142-142

Irish-American, 62-63

Jewish, 106-107, 112-117

meat riot, 178-179

How the Other Half Lives
(Jacob Riis), 34

How to Feed the Family
(New York Board of Health), 162-163

Howells, William Dean, 38

Hungarian Jews, 172-174

hunger:

Italy, 195

United States, 61

Hungering for America
(Hasia Diner), 59

Hungry Hearts
(Anzia Yezierska), 120

Hurst, Fannie, 104-105, 181

illegal immigration, 197

immigrant boardinghouses, 66-70

immigrant children:

and Americanization, 165-166

and school lunchrooms, 165-166

cooking classes, 163-165

immigrant cooks, pressure to Americanize, 163

immigrant eating habits, health-care workers and, 149-151

immigrant foods, introduced to Americans, xiv immigrant identity, and food, 82

immigrant jobs, 55

immigrant meals, Ellis Island, 127

immigrant population, New York, 48

immigrant women, as candy workers, 201-204

“immigrant’s kit,” 50

immigrants:

and Home Relief, 199

assimilation of, xi

cooking classes for, 161-165

culinary ingenuity of, xii

first food in the United States, 127

food networks of, xiii

German, and herring, 19

illegal, 197

in American food jobs, 55-56

in steerage, 48-50

Irish, in New York, 59-60

Irish, loneliness of, 52

Irish, poverty, 61

Italian, 187-188

Lower East Side, 2

names for United States, 207

Northern Italian, 184-185

preservation of food customs, xii

shedding of Old World identities, xi-xii

Southern Italian, 185

table etiquette, 126

treatment at Ellis Island, 131-132

use food to establish collective identity, 59

immigration:

and nativists, 192

Irish, 48-52, 50-51

Italian, 184-185

peak, 125

restrictions on, 192

rise of, 5

International Jewish Cookbook
, 92-93

Ireland:

corned beef in, 78

famine, 48

food exports, 57-58

land confiscation, 56

landlord system, 56-57

population, 48

potato blight, 49

Irish boardinghouses, 67-70

Irish cooking, plainness of, 60

Irish dairy foods, 56, 57

Irish diet:

in America, 61-62

seventeenth century, 57

sixteenth century, 56

Irish famines, 59

Irish immigrants:

and sugar, 63

letters, 51-52

United States, 48-52

and pigs, 113-114

arrival at Castle Garden, 63-64, 66-67

in American food industry, 27, 55-56

meat consumption, 63

culinary traditions, 59

poverty, 61

women, 51-55

The Irish in America
, 66-67

Irish peasants, 50

Irish servants, 52-55

Irish Times
, 63

Irish waiters, 72, 74

Irish whiskey, 59

“island of tears” (Ellis Island), 131

Italian bread peddlers, 208-209

Italian Christmas dinner, 226-227

The Italian Cook Book
, 206-207

Italian families:

culture, 194-195

supper, 195-196, 200

Italian grocery stores, 222-223

Italian holidays, 200

Italian immigrants:

and bread, 207-212

and hunger, 195

and Italian ingredients, 194

and meat, 196-197

and salads, 215

as seen by New Yorkers, 220-221

biases against, 187-189, 193

dangerous jobs, 187-188

devotion to culinary heritage, 193

home gardens, 216

resistance to Americanization, 193-194

seasonal foods, 216-217

Italian immigration:

and poverty, 187-188

sex ratio, 185

United States, 184-185

Italian laborers, foods, 186-187, 190

Italian peppers, 216-217

Italian pushcart markets, 213-215

Italian rag-pickers, 188-191

Italian sweets, 200

Italian truck farms, 216

Italian Women in Industry
, 201

Italian women:

as foragers, 215-216

candy workers, 201-204

food scavengers, 190-191

vegetable peddlers, 214-215

Italianate design, 97 Orchard Street, 6

Jefferson Market, 15

Jennie June’s American Cookery Book
(J. C. Croly), 75-76

Jewish American Cook Book
(Regina Frishwasser), 146-147

Jewish children:

and delicatessens, 169-170

and pickles, 150-151

Jewish cookery:

importance of fat, 111-113

strong flavors, 110

Jewish cooks, and Crisco, 118

Jewish culture, sacredness of food, 119

Jewish delicatessens, 166-171

Jewish dinners, 119

Jewish food-joy, 119-122

Jewish goose farms, 112-117

Jewish holiday foods, 95, 156

Jewish housewives, food knowledge, 95

Jewish immigrants:

and kashruth, 133-138

as salad eaters, 147

food preferences, 139-140

food sharing, 155-157

forbidden foods, 95-101

hunger of, 133-135

inspection at Ellis Island, 136

meat consumption, 177

peddlers, 143-144

survival rations, 133-134

Jewish men, abandonment of families, 104

Jewish New Yorkers, move Uptown, 120-122

Jewish restaurants, Lower East Side, 170-175

Jews:

and gefilte fish, 87-88

Ashkenazi, 88-91

dispersal from Lower East Side, 180-181

East Prussian, 93-94

Europe, migrations, 89

food memories of, 181

fruit consumption, 147-149

German, 83-124

immigration, 132-134

love of soup, 145-147

Romanian, 171-172

Sephardic, 98

Uptown, food cravings, 181

Jiggs (comic strip character), 81

jobs, immigrant, 55

Johnson Reed Act, 165, 192

junk dealers, 189

kashruth (Jewish dietary law), 88, 95, 98, 99, 133-138, 162

Kazin, Alfred, 169

Kellogg, John Harvey, 178

kibitzing, at cafés, 174-175

King Gambrinus, 27

“kitchen” (seasoning for potatoes), 58-59, 108

kitchens:

boardinghouse, 69

German-Jewish, 96

institutional, 79

tenement, xii

Kittredge, Mabel, 163-164

Kleindeutschland
(“Little Germany”):

bakeries in, 28

beer in, 33-34

enclaves, 21, 22

New York, 2, 66, 99

restaurants, 41-42

sauerkraut in, 24

signs, 27

social clubs, 42-43

wards, 21

“knish alley” (Second Avenue), 177

knishes, xiv, 176-177

Kohl, Johann, 57, 58