97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement (36 page)

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Authors: Jane Ziegelman

Tags: #General, #Cooking, #19th Century, #History: American, #United States - State & Local - General, #United States - 19th Century, #Social History, #Lower East Side (New York, #Emigration & Immigration, #Social Science, #Nutrition, #New York - Local History, #New York, #N.Y.), #State & Local, #Agriculture & Food, #Food habits, #Immigrants, #United States, #Middle Atlantic, #History, #History - U.S., #United States - State & Local - Middle Atlantic, #New York (State)

BOOK: 97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement

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New York, 71-76

Northern Italian, 218-220

private, 170-171

signs, 27

Rhineland, 88

Riis, Jacob, 34, 223

riot, meat, 178-179

Rizzolo, Concetta, 211-212

Rogarshevsky family, xi, 125

Rogarshevsky, Abraham, 125, 142

Rogarshevsky, Fannie, 125, 141, 152, 158, 212-213

Rogashevsky children, 141-142

Romanian Jewish restaurants, 171-173

Roosevelt, Franklin, 199

Roosevelt, Teddy, 29, 73, 127, 131, 173

Rorer, Sarah Tyson, 224

rum, 31-32

Rumpolt, Marx, 91

“runners” (boardinghouse workers), 66-67

Russ & Daughters, 180

Russian Jews:

arrival on Lower East Side, 123-124

love of tea, 175-176

restaurant food, 175

Sabbath dishes, 105

Sabbath, Jewish:

cultural pressures, 104, 105

fish, 85, 87

food symbolism, 119

food, 84, 105, 155-156

German, 95-96

Saengverein
(German singing clubs), 44

salads:

Italian, 215

Jewish, 147

saloons, 33-34

sandwiches, 117, 127, 151

sanitary police, 114, 149

sauerkraut making, 24-26

sauerkraut man, 25-26

sauerkraut, recipe, 26

sausage factories, 169

sausages, 13, 22, 44

Scènes de la vie de Bohème
(Henry Murger), 38

Schaefer, Frederick, 32-33

Schaefer, Max, 32-33

schav, 147

schmaltz,
see
fat

Schneider, John, 6, 9, 124

Schneider’s Saloon, 9

Schnorrer’s Verein
, 42

school lunchrooms, and immigrants, 165-166

school lunchrooms, menu, 165-166

Schultz, Sadie, 139-140

Schwartz, Frieda, 140

Scotland, corned beef in, 78

Scribner’s Monthly
, 17

Seattle, 100

“servant question,” 53

servants, Irish:

New York, 52-55

culinary skills of 54-55

frustrations with, 53-54

introduction to American food traditions, 54-55

Settlement Cook Book
, 86

settlement houses:

cooking classes, 160-165

immigrant classes, 160

Lower East Side, 160-165

“model flats,” 163-164

sfinge
(Italian fried dough), 226-227

shabbos goy
(Gentile helper on Jewish Sabbath),

Josephine Baldizzi as, 212

Shanley, Charles Dawson, 27

Shavuot, 156

Shearith Israel (synagogue), 98

shellfish, Jews and, 98, 100-101

shetlach (Jewish market towns), 133, 142

shoppers, public markets, 17, 69-70

Sicilian bread, 209-210

Sicilian cafés, 222

Sicilians:

and bread, 207-212

Brooklyn, 208

family suppers, 196

importance of food to, 195

New York, 198

Sieghortner’s restaurant, 37

signs, New York City, 26-27

slave trade, 31-32

slave descendants, on Lower East Side, 2

Slavic foods, East Prussia, 103

“slumming,” on Lower East Side, 173-174

Smedley, Emma, 166

smells:

Collect pond, 5

Lower East Side, 23-24

snails, Italian, 214

social clubs, German, 42-45

costumes of, 43

social workers, tenement visits, 154

societies, Irish-American, 80

“Some Queer East Side Vocations,” 116

soup:

Jewish, 107, 145-147

lentil, recipe, 122-123

white bean, recipe, 122

chilled, 147

Southern Italians, biases against, 220-221

spaetzle, 12, 107

spaghetti con aglio e olio, recipe, 211-212

spaghetti, early description, 218-219

spaghetti, adoption by Americans, 223-225

spaghetti and meat balls, recipe, 224-225

Spewack, Bella, 154-155

St. Patrick’s Day, 80, 82

Staats-Zeitung
(New York), 36, 131

stale bread, 210

steamship companies, and immigrant food, 127

steerage, steamships:

conditions, 48-50, 134

food in, 49-50

health risks in, 49

poverty of passengers in, 50

regulation of conditions, 50

stewed fish, recipe, 86-87

stews:

German, 8-12

hasenpfeffer
, recipe, 10-11

veal with dried pear, recipe, 11-12

“stirabout” (Irish porridge), 56

strudel, cranberry, recipe, 159

stuffed cabbage, recipe, 140

sugar, and Irish immigrants, 63

sugar industry, New York, 201

supper, German, 8

sweatshops, 2

Sweeny, Daniel, 72

Sweeny’s (restaurant), 72, 76

“Table Tidbits Prepared Under Revolting Conditions,” 203-204

Taft, President, 136

tailors, German, 4

taverns, Jewish, 93-94

tchotchkes (cheap decorations), 158

tea:

at Russian Jewish cafés, 175-176

Irish and, 63

Telsh, Lithuania, 125

Temple Emanuel (synagogue), 99

tenement buildings, description, 1

tenement candy factories, 201-204

tenement candy, as health risk, 202-204

tenement courtyards, 1-2

tenement poultry farms, 114-117

“tenement problem,” 23

tenement sweatshops, 2

tenements:

and immigration, 5

communal nature, 153-154

early history, xii, 5, 6

food sharing in, 152-157

lack of privacy, 152-153

noisiness, 152-153

rear, 20

Text Book for Cooking and Baking
(Hinde Amchanitzki), 158-159

Thanksgiving banquet, Ellis Island, 130-131

Tompkins Square, 20

“trefa banquet,” 100

treyf
(“impure”), 98, 101

triticum durum
(wheat type), 207

Trow’s New York Business Directory, 166

tuberculosis, 142, 204

Turkeltaub family (fictional), dinner, 104-105

Turnverein
, 43-45

United States:

as land of bread and work, 208

demand for immigrant servants, 53

immigrant names for, 207

Irish boardinghouses in, 68

vegetables:

Italian, 214-215

pushcart market, 145, 147

vegetarian chopped liver, recipe, 179-180

vegetarian dishes, Jewish, 179-180

vegetarian restaurants, Jewish, 177-180

vegetarianism, United States, 178

Vereine
(German social clubs), 42-45, 80

vermicelli, 89

Vienna Bakery, 29-30

Vienna bread, 29-30

vinegar, spiced, recipe, 10

Vineland, New Jersey, 216

violence, attributed to Italians, 188

Volkfest
(German festival), 43-45

voyages, Irish immigrant, 48-50

Wage-Earner’s Budgets
(Louise More), 62-63

waiters:

dialect, 74

Irish, 55, 72, 74

Wald, Lillian, 154, 163

A Walker in the City
, 169

Wallis, Frederick, 132

Walton mansion, 68-69

Walton, William, 68-69

wards, Lower East Side, 21

Washington Market, 14, 15, 17-18

water, 97 Orchard Street, 7-8

watermelons, 18

West Indies, 77

wheat, Sicily, 207

“When Does Mama Eat?” 108-109

whiskey, 13, 59

Whitman, Walt, 38

Wilde, William, 59

Wise, Rabbi Isaac, 98, 100-101

Wolf, Rebekka, 112

women, Irish, as immigrants, 51-55

Wood, Bertha, 149-151

working class food, American, 129

World War I, and anti-German bias, 191-192

Yezierska, Anzia, 119-120, 161, 181

Yiddish theater district, 176

Yoke of the Thorah
(Henry Harland), 121-122

Yonah Schimmel, 177

Yourself and the Neighbours
(Seamus MacManus), 60

Zimmerman, Moses, 169

zucchini frittata, recipe, 210-211

Acknowledgments

This book would have no reason to exist if not for the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, the present-day 97 Orchard Street. I am forever indebted to Ruth Abram, founder of the museum and the woman who granted this project the spark of life. I also need to thank Morris Vogel and Helene Silver for their steadfast support, and David Favaloro and Derya Golpinar for sharing their time and their knowledge.

In the course of researching this book I have benefited from the guidance of a small army of food authorities, genealogists, historians, and librarians. I would like to thank Karen Franklin, Roger Lustig, Joel Hecker, Lori Lefkowitz, Vivian Ehrlich, Anne Mendelson, Joan Nathan, Lorie Conway, Roberta Saltzman, Eleanor Yadin, Amanda Siegel, Bonnie Slotnik, Barry Moreno, and Janet Levine. I am likewise grateful to the immigrants, their children, and grandchildren who shared their stories and their recipes. Among them are Barbara Levasseur, Flora Frank, Brian Biller, Josef Griliches, Hannah and Walter Hess, Maria Capio, Francine Herbitter, Lillian Chanales, Betsy Chanales, Frieda Schwartz, and Edy Geikert. And of course, I must thank my incredibly patient editor, Elisabeth Dyssegaard, and my agent, Jason Yarn. Finally, I would like to thank Marjorie and Aaron Ziegelman, Michael Coe, and my friends Stephen Treffinger, Steve Miller, and Joshua Patner for being such perceptive and tireless readers.

About the Author

JANE ZIEGELMAN
is the director of the forthcoming culinary program at New York City’s Tenement Museum. The founder and director of Kids Cook!, a multiethnic cooking program for children, she has presented food-related talks and cooking classes in libraries and schools across New York City. Her writing on food has appeared in a number of newspapers, magazines, and books, including
The New Cook’s Catalog
, and she is the coauthor of
Foie Gras: A Passion
. She lives in Brooklyn, New York.

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ALSO BY JANE ZIEGELMAN

Foie Gras: A Passion

Credits

Jacket design by Christine Van Bree

97 ORCHARD
. Copyright © 2010 by Jane Ziegelman. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.

FIRST EDITION

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Ziegelman, Jane.

97 Orchard: an edible history of five immigrant families in one New York tenement
/ by Jane Ziegelman.—1st ed.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-0-06-128850-0 (hardback)

1. Food habits—New York (State)—New York—History—19th century. 2. Immigrants—Nutrition—New York (State)—New York—History—19th century. 3. Lower East Side (New York, N.Y.)—History—19th century. 4. Lower East Side (New York, N.Y.)—Social life and customs. I. Title.

GT2853.U5Z54 2010

394. 1‘20974741—dc22

2009049637

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