The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils (28 page)

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Linalol (90–97 per cent) in cayenne rosewood; in the Brazilian oil slightly less (80–90 per cent). Also cineol, terpineol, geraniol, citronellal, limonene, pinene, among others.

SAFETY DATA Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

SKIN CARE
: Acne, dermatitis, scars, wounds, wrinkles and general skin care: sensitive, dry, dull, combination oily/dry, etc. ‘Although it does not have any dramatic curative power … I find it very useful especially for skin care. It is very mild and safe to use.’
⁸⁰

IMMUNE SYSTEM
: Colds, coughs, fever, infections, stimulates the immune system.

NERVOUS SYSTEM:
Frigidity, headaches, nausea, nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES Once extensively used as a source of natural linalol, now increasingly replaced by the synthetic form. Acetylated rosewood oil is used extensively in perfumery work – soaps, toiletries, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is employed in most major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.

Ruta graveolens

FAMILY Rutaceae

SYNONYMS Garden rue, herb-of-grace, herbygrass.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION An ornamental, shrubby herb with tough, woody branches, small, smooth, bluish-green leaves and greeny-yellow flowers. The whole plant has a strong, aromatic, bitter or acrid scent.

DISTRIBUTION Native to the Mediterranean region; found growing wild extensively in Spain, Morocco, Corsica, Sardinia and Algeria. It is cultivated mainly in France and Spain for its oil; also in Italy and Yugoslavia.

OTHER SPECIES There are several different types of rue, such as the summer rue
(R. montana)
, winter rue
(R.chalepensis)
and Sardinian rue
(R. angustifolia)
, which are also used to produce essential oils.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION A favoured remedy of the ancients, especially as an antidote to poison. It was seen as a magic herb by many cultures and as a protection against evil. It was also used for nervous afflictions. ‘It helps disorders in the head, nerves and womb, convulsions and hysteric fits, the colic, weakness of the stomach and bowels; it resists poison and cures venomous bites.’
⁸¹

ACTIONS Antitoxic, antitussive, antiseptic, antispasmodic, diuretic, emmenagogue, insecticidal, nervine, rubefacient, stimulant, tonic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh herb.

CHARACTERISTICS A yellow or orange viscous mass which generally solidifies at room temperature, with a sharp, herbaceous-fruity acrid odour. The winter rue oil does not solidify at room temperature.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Mainly methyl nonyl ketone (90 per cent in summer rue oil).

SAFETY DATA Oral toxin (due to main constituent). Skin and mucous membrane irritant. Abortifacient. ‘Rue oil should never be used in perfumery or flavour work.’
⁸²

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE None. ‘Should not be used at all in aromatherapy.’
⁸³

OTHER USES Employed as a source of methyl nonyl ketone.

Salvia sclarea

FAMILY Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS Clary, clary wort, muscatel sage, clear eye, see bright, common clary, clarry, eye bright.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION Stout biennial or perennial herb up to 1 metre high with large, hairy leaves, green with a hint of purple, and small blue flowers.

DISTRIBUTION Native to southern Europe; cultivated worldwide especially in the Mediterranean region, Russia, the USA, England, Morocco and central Europe. The French, Moroccan and English clary are considered of superior quality for perfumery work.

OTHER SPECIES Closely related to the garden sage
(S. officinalis)
and the Spanish sage
(S. lavendulaefolia)
, which are both used to produce essential oils. Other types of sage include meadow clary
(S. pratensis)
and vervain sage
(S. verbenaca).
Clary sage should not be confused with the common wayside herb eyebright
(Euphrasia).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION This herb, highly esteemed in the Middle Ages, has now largely fallen out of use. It was used for digestive disorders, kidney disease, uterine and menstrual complaints, for cleansing ulcers and as a general nerve tonic. The mucilage from the seeds was used for treating tumours and for removing dust particles from the eyes.

Like garden sage, it cools inflammation and is especially useful for throat and respiratory infections.

ACTIONS Anticonvulsive, antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative,
cicatrisant, deodorant, digestive, emmenagogue, hypotensive, nervine, regulator (of seborrhoea), sedative, stomachic, tonic, uterine.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering tops and leaves. (A concrete and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS A colourless or pale yellowy-green liquid with a sweet, nutty-herbaceous scent. It blends well with juniper, lavender, coriander, cardomon, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, labdanum, jasmine, frankincense, bergamot and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Linalyl acetate (up to 75 per cent), linalol, pinene, myrcene and phellandrene, among others. Constituents vary according to geographical origin – there are several different chemotypes.

SAFETY DATA Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy. Do not use clary sage oil while drinking alcohol since it can induce a narcotic effect and exaggerate drunkenness. Clary sage is generally used in preference to the garden sage in aromatherapy due to its lower toxicity level.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

SKIN CARE
: Acne, boils, dandruff, hair loss, inflamed conditions, oily skin and hair, ophthalmia, ulcers, wrinkles.

CIRCULATION, MUSCLES AND JOINTS
: High blood pressure, muscular aches and pains.

RESPIRATORY SYSTEM
: Asthma, throat infections, whooping cough.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM:
Colic, cramp, dyspepsia, flatulence.

GENITO-URINARY SYSTEM:
Amenorrhoea, labour pain, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea.

NERVOUS SYSTEM:
Depression, frigidity, impotence, migraine, nervous tension and stress-related disorders.

OTHER USES The oil and absolute are used as fragrance components and fixatives in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is used extensively by the food and drink industry, especially in the production of wines with a muscatel flavour.

Salvia officinalis

FAMILY Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS Garden sage, true sage, Dalmatian sage.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION An evergreen, shrubby, perennial herb up to 80 cms high with a woody base, soft, silver, oval leaves and a mass of deep blue or violet flowers.

DISTRIBUTION Native to the Mediterranean region; cultivated worldwide especially in Albania, Yugoslavia, Greece, Italy, Turkey, France, China and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES There are several different species and cultivars which have been developed, such as the Mexican sage
(S. azurea grandiflora)
and the red sage
(S. colorata)
both of which are used medicinally. Essential oils are also produced from other species including the Spanish sage
(S. lavendulaefolia)
and clary sage
(S. sclarea)
– see separate entries and Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION A herb of ancient repute, valued as a culinary and medicinal plant – called
herba sacra
or ‘sacred herb’ by the Romans. It has been used for a variety of disorders including respiratory infections, menstrual difficulties and digestive complaints. It was also believed to strengthen the senses and the memory.

It is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for inflammations of the mouth, tongue and throat.

ACTIONS Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic,
astringent, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypertensive, insecticidal, laxative, stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried leaves. (A so-called ‘oleoresin’ is also produced from the exhausted plant material.)

CHARACTERISTICS A pale yellow mobile liquid with a fresh, warm-spicy, herbaceous, somewhat camphoraceous odour. It blends well with lavandin, rosemary, rosewood, lavender, hyssop, lemon and other citrus oils. The common sage oil is preferred in perfumery work to the Spanish sage oil which, although safer, has a less refined fragrance.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Thujone (about 42 per cent), cineol, borneol, caryophyllene and other terpenes.

SAFETY DATA Oral toxin (due to thujone). Abortifacient; avoid in pregnancy. Avoid in epilepsy. Use with care or avoid in therapeutic work altogether – Spanish sage or clary sage are good alternatives.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE None.

OTHER USES Used in some pharmaceutical preparations such as mouthwashes, gargles, toothpastes, etc. Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, shampoos, detergents, anti-perspirants, colognes and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. The oil and oleoresin are extensively used for flavouring foods (mainly meat products), soft drinks and alcoholic beverages, especially vermouth. It also serves as a source of natural anti-oxidants.

Salvia lavendulaefolia

FAMILY Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS Lavender-leaved sage.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION An evergreen shrub, similar to the garden sage but with narrower leaves and small purple flowers. The whole plant is aromatic with a scent reminiscent of spike lavender.

DISTRIBUTION Native to the mountains in Spain, it also grows in south west France and Yugoslavia. The oil is mainly produced in Spain.

OTHER SPECIES A very similar oil is distilled in Turkey from a Greek variety,
S. triloba
, which is used for pharmaceutical purposes. See also entries on clary sage and common sage for other types of sage.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION In Spain it is regarded as something of a ‘cure-all’. Believed to promote longevity and protect against all types of infection (such as plague). Used to treat rheumatism, digestive complaints, menstrual problems, infertility and nervous weakness.

ACTIONS Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, deodorant, depurative, digestive, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, hypotensive, nervine, regulator (of seborrhoea), stimulant (hepatobiliary, adrenocortical glands, circulation), stomachic, tonic (nerve and general).

EXTRACTION Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves.

CHARACTERISTICS A pale yellow mobile liquid with a fresh-herbaceous, camphoraceous, slightly pinelike odour. It blends well with rosemary, lavandin, lavender, pine, citronella, eucalyptus, juniper, clary sage and cedarwood.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS Camphor (up to 34 per cent), cineol (up to 35 per cent), limonene (up to 41 per cent), camphene (up to 20 per cent), pinene (up to 20 per cent) and other minor constituents.

SAFETY DATA Relatively non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy; use in moderation.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

SKIN CARE:
Acne, cuts, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, excessive sweating, hair loss, gingivitis, gum infections, sores.

CIRCULATION, MUSCLES AND JOINTS
: Arthritis, debility, fluid retention, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism.

RESPIRATORY SYSTEM
: Asthma, coughs, laryngitis.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
: Jaundice, liver congestion.

GENITO-URINARY SYSTEM
: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, sterility.

IMMUNE SYSTEM
: Colds, fevers, ’flu.

NERVOUS SYSTEM
: Headaches, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes, especially ‘industrial’ type fragrances. Extensively employed in foods (especially meat products), as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.

Santalum album

FAMILY Santalaceae

SYNONYMS White sandalwood, yellow sandalwood, East Indian sandalwood, sandalwood Mysore, sanders-wood, santal (oil), white saunders (oil), yellow saunders (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION A small, evergreen, parasitic tree up to 9 metres high with brown-grey trunk and many smooth, slender branches. It has leathery leaves and small pinky-purple flowers. The tree must be over thirty years old before it is ready for the production of sandalwood oil.

DISTRIBUTION Native to tropical Asia, especially India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Indonesia and Taiwan. India is the main essential oil producer; the region of Mysore exports the highest quality oil, although some oil is distilled in Europe and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES The Australian sandalwood
(S. spicatum
or
Eucarya spicata)
produces a very similar oil, but with a dry-bitter top note. The so-called West Indian sandalwood or amyris
(Amyris balsamifera)
is a poor substitute and bears no botanical relation to the East Indian sandalwood.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION One of the oldest known perfume materials, with at least 4000 years of uninterrupted use. It is used as a traditional incense, as a cosmetic, perfume and embalming material all over the East. It is also a popular building material, especially for temples.

In Chinese medicine it is used to treat stomach ache, vomiting, gonorrhoea, choleraic difficulties and skin complaints. In the Ayurvedic tradition it is used mainly for urinary and respiratory infections, for acute and chronic diarrhoea.

In India it is often combined with rose in the famous scent
aytar.

ACTIONS Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic (urinary and pulmonary), antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, insecticidal, sedative, tonic.

EXTRACTION Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the roots and heartwood, powdered and dried.

CHARACTERISTICS A pale yellow, greenish or brownish viscous liquid with a deep, soft, sweet-woody balsamic scent of excellent tenacity. It blends well with rose, violet, tuberose, clove, lavender, black pepper, bergamot, rosewood, geranium, labdanum, oakmoss, benzoin, vetiver, patchouli, mimosa, cassie, costus, myrrh and jasmine.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS About 90 per cent santalols, 6 per cent sesquiterpene hydrocarbons: santene, teresantol, borneol, santalone, tri-cyclo-ekasantalal, among others.

SAFETY DATA Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME USE

SKIN CARE
: Acne, dry, cracked and chapped skin, aftershave (barber’s rash), greasy skin, moisturizer.

RESPIRATORY SYSTEM
: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs (dry, persistent), laryngitis, sore throat.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM
: Diarrhoea, nausea.

GENITO-URINARY SYSTEM
: Cystitis.

NERVOUS SYSTEM
: Depression, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES Used to be used as a pharmaceutical disinfectant, now largely abandoned. Extensively employed as a fragrance component and fixative in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes – especially oriental, woody, aftershaves, chyprès, etc. Extensively used in the production of incense. Employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, including soft and alcoholic drinks.

Santolina chamaecyparissus

FAMILY Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS
Lavandula taemina
, cotton lavender

GENERAL DESCRIPTION An evergreen, woody shrub with whitish-grey foliage and small, bright yellow, ball-shaped flowers borne on long single stalks. The whole plant has a strong rather rank odour, a bit like chamomile.

DISTRIBUTION Native to Italy, now common throughout the Mediterranean region. Much grown as a popular border herb.