Strolling Through Istanbul: The Classic Guide to the City

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Authors: Hilary Sumner-Boyd,John Freely

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BOOK: Strolling Through Istanbul: The Classic Guide to the City
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The late
Hilary Sumner-Boyd
was professor of humanities at Robert College, Bosphorus University. His magisterial work,
The Seven Hills of Constantinople: A Study of the Byzantine and Turkish Monuments of the City
, was unpublished at the time of his death in 1977 and is now being prepared for publication by Bosphorus University Press.

John Freely
was born in New York and joined the US Navy at the age of seventeen for the last two years of World War II. He has lived in New York, Boston, London, Athens and Istanbul and has written over forty travel books and guides, most of them about Greece and Turkey. He is author of
The Grand Turk, Storm on Horseback, The Cyclades, The Ionian Islands
(all I.B.Tauris),
Crete, The Western Shores of Turkey, Strolling through Athens
and
Strolling through Venice
(all Tauris Parke Paperbacks). He is currently professor of physics at Bosphorus University in Istanbul.

 

Praise for John Freely

Strolling through Athens

‘A magnificent walking guide to the city ... His knowledge is encyclopaedic ... he brings the millenniums of history alive. If you want a cultural guide to the ancient city, this is the one for you.’ Anthony Sattin, ‘Books of the Week’,
Sunday Times

The Western Shores of Turkey

‘.
. .
Enchanting guide ... a work of genuine scholarship, lightly worn and charmingly conveyed. I fell in love with the book and stayed enamoured until the final page.’

Paul Bailey,
Sunday Times

Inside the Seraglio

‘Freely provides a fascinating, easy-to-follow overview, beautifully researched and riveting in its detail.’

Christopher Fowler,
Independent on Sunday

Tauris Parke Paperbacks
is an imprint of I.B.Tauris. It is dedicated to publishing books in accessible paperback editions for the serious general reader within a wide range of categories, including biography, history, travel and the ancient world. The list includes select, critically acclaimed works of top quality writing by distinguished authors that continue to challenge, to inform and to inspire. These are books that possess those subtle but intrinsic elements that mark them out as something exceptional.

The Colophon
of Tauris Parke Paperbacks is a representation of the ancient Egyptian ibis, sacred to the god Thoth, who was himself often depicted in the form of this most elegant of birds. Thoth was credited in antiquity as the scribe of the ancient Egyptian gods and as the inventor of writing and was associated with many aspects of wisdom and learning.

 

Published in 2010 by Tauris Parke Paperbacks
An imprint of I.B.Tauris and Co Ltd
6 Salem Road, London W2 4BU
175 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10010
www.ibtauris.com

Distributed in the United States and Canada Exclusively by
Palgrave Macmillan
175 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10010

First published by Taylor and Francis in 2001

Copyright © 2001, 2010 John Freely and the estate of Hilary Sumner-Boyd

Cover image: Suleymaniye Camii (Suleiman the Magnificent mosque) on the Golden Horn, Istanbul, Turkey © Robert Leon, Photographer’s Direct

The right of John Freely and the estate of Hilary Sumner-Boyd to be identified as the authors of this work has been asserted by the authors in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978 1 84885 154 2
eBook ISBN: 978 0 85773 005 3

A full CIP record for this book is available from the British Library
A full CIP record is available from the Library of Congress

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: available

 
Contents
 

List of Maps and Plans

List of Plates

Notes on Turkish Words and Spelling

Turkish Spelling

Acknowledgements

Preface to the Revised Edition

Preface to the First Edition

2
From the Galata Bridge to Haghia Sophia

3
Haghia Sophia

4
Topkap
ı
Saray
ı

5
Through the Outer Gardens of the Saray

6
Around the Blue Mosque

7
From Haghia Sophia to Beyazit Square

8
Through the Markets and Bazaars

9
Around Beyaz
ı
t and
Ş
ehzadeba
ş
ı

10
The Süleymaniye

11
From the Galata Bridge to
Ş
ehzadeba
ş
ı

12
Around the Mosque of the Conqueror

13
The Fifth and Sixth Hills

14
Kariye Camii

15
Along the Golden Horn

16
The Seventh Hill

17
Along the Land Walls

18
Up the Golden Horn to Eyüp

19
Üsküdar and the Princes’ Islands

20
Pera and Galata

21
The Lower Bosphorus’ European Shore

22
The Bosphorus

23
A Last Stroll

 
Maps and Plans
 

MAPS

 

1 The Ancient City and its Landmarks

2 From the Galata Bridge to Haghia Sophia

3 Haghia Sophia to Saray Point

4 Around the Blue Mosque

5 From Haghia Sophia to Beyazit Square

6 Through the Markets and Bazaars

7 Capali Carsi

8 Around Beyazit and
Ş
ehzadeba
ş
ı

9 From the Galata Bridge to
Ş
ehzadeba
ş
ı

10 Around the Mosque of the Conqueror

11 The Fifth and Sixth Hills

12 Along the Golden Horn

13 The Seventh Hill

14 The Land Walls

15 Eyüp

16 Üsküdar

17 Pera and Galata

18 The Lower Bosphorus’ European Shore

19a The Upper Bosphorus

19b The Lower Bosphorus

PLANS

 

1 Yeni Cami Külliyesi

2 Ca
ğ
alo
ğ
lu Hamam
ı

3 Haghia Sophia

4 Topkap
ı
Saray
ı

5 Haghia Eirene

6 The Museums

7 Sultan Ahmet Camii

8 Sokollu Mehmet Pa
ş
a Camii

9 SS. Sergius and Bacchus

10 Sultan Beyazit Camii

11 Mahmut Pa
ş
a Camii

12 Rüstem Pa
ş
a Medresesi

13 Valide Han
ı

14
Ş
ehzade Camii

15 The Süleymaniye

16 Church of the Pantocrator

17 Amcazade Hüseyin Pa
ş
a Külliyesi

18 Restored Plan of Fatih Complex

19 Church of Constantine Lips

20 Church of the Pammakaristos

21 St. Saviour in Chora

22 Frescoes in inner and outer Narthexes

23 Parecclesion

24 Church of St. Theodosia

25 Haseki Hürrem Külliyesi

26 Cross-Section of the Theodosian Walls

27 Atik Valide Külliyesi

28 A Typical Ottoman Mosque

 
Plates

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