Sausage Making (18 page)

Spicy brown mustard

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 11
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.82
  

Finely minced garlic

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.36
  

Finely chopped fresh rosemary

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.27
  

Sugar

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.17
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.05
  

Beef middles or hog casings, rinsed

Cotechino is often paired with lentils and eaten on New Year's Day because it's a dish that's said to bring luck. Traditional versions are made with pork and raw pork skin stuffed into hog casings. Slowly simmered with lentils or white beans, the casing and the pork skin in the sausage soften, releasing collagen, which makes the lentils or beans particularly silky and flavorful. Our not-so-traditional version was created to use up surplus duck that we had on hand after we made our annual batch of turduckens. We stuff the sausage into beef middles and use boiled pork skin, and those two changes mean the cotechino doesn't need to be slowly simmered before eating. It's a streamlined version that doesn't sacrifice flavor.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork shoulder, pork skin, and duck thigh on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a medium bowl, add the ice water, pickled red onion, fennel, green onions, red onion, wine, salt, mustard, garlic, rosemary, sugar, and black pepper and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the pork shoulder, pork skin, and duck meat and skin through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the onion mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Stuff the sausage into the beef middles
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   . Tie links with kitchen string every 5 in/12.5 cm to 6 in/15 cm.
   
8.   
   8.
   Poach the links
   (see page 41)
   until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the sausage registers 145°F/63°C. The poached sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill them fully in an ice bath and refrigerate, or freeze for longer storage
   (see page 46)
   . When you're ready to eat the sausages, cut them into medallions and grill or cook in butter in a pan until browned and heated through, basting frequently. Alternatively, warm them in a pot of cooked beans or lentils.
   

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless, skin-on guinea hen (a 50:50 mixture of light and dark meat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.10 lb
  
• GRAMS: 499
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 36.81
  

Boneless pork shoulder (or a mixture of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.70 lb
  
• GRAMS: 321
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 23.57
  

Roughly chopped kimchee

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cups
  
• GRAMS: 214
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 15.71
  

Kimchee juice or water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 83
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 6.13
  

Finely diced red onion

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 118
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 8.63
  

Chicharrones (pork rinds), crumbled

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cups
  
• GRAMS: 71
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 5.24
  

Thinly sliced green onions, white and light green parts only

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 26
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.92
  

Minced garlic

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 14
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.05
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 13
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.94
  

Hog casings, rinsed

4505 Meats has a stand at the weekly Ferry Plaza Farmers Market in San Francisco, where we sell our killer cheese-burger and sausages. In a neighboring stall are our friends the Lee brothers, owners of Namu restaurant, and their market manager Jeff Kim. Namu serves modern Korean food, and this sausage is inspired by them; we use their kimchee (and its liquid) to make this sausage. If you can't find guinea hen, you can substitute duck or even chicken, but be sure to include the skin, which gives the finished sausage a silky texture. We add our own
chicharrones
to the mix, for a textural contrast.

1.   
   1.
   Place the guinea hen meat and skin and the pork shoulder on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a small bowl, add the kimchee, kimchee juice, red onion, chicharrones, green onions, garlic, and salt and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the guinea hen meat and skin and pork shoulder through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the onion mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Stuff the sausage into the hog casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   .
   
8.   
   8.
   Poach the links
   (see page 41)
   until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the sausage registers 155°F/68°C. The poached sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill them fully in an ice bath and refrigerate, or freeze for longer storage
   (see page 46)
   . When you're ready to eat the sausages, grill
   (see page 38)
   or cook in a pan
   (see page 45)
   until browned and heated through.
   

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless, skinless frog legs, finely chopped

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.90 lb
  
• GRAMS: 416
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 30.55
  

Boneless, skin-on chicken thighs, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.50 lb
  
• GRAMS: 693
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 50.90
  

Pork leaf lard, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.30 lb
  
• GRAMS: 139
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 10.18
  

Ice water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 20
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.48
  

White wine

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 30
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.22
  

Finely chopped fresh parsley

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 16
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.18
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 15
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.12
  

Minced garlic

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 14
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.04
  

Roasted garlic powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 7
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.51
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.15
  

Lemon juice

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ³
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.31
  

Lemon zest

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.16
  

Ground coriander

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 3
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.20
  

Sheep casings, rinsed

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 
  
• GRAMS: 
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 
  

Frog's legs have fallen out of fashion in most restaurants, which is a shame. This sausage pays homage to the classic preparation, with lots of lemon, garlic, and fresh parsley. Because frog meat has a softer texture, I use it in combination with chicken thighs to give the sausage more structure. Both of those meats are relatively lean, so I add pork leaf lard, which is the fat surrounding the kidneys, to ensure the sausage is juicy.

1.   
   1.
   Place the frog legs, chicken thighs, and pork leaf lard on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a medium bowl, add the ice water, wine, parsley, salt, garlic, garlic powder, black pepper, lemon juice, lemon zest, and coriander and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the chicken thighs and pork leaf lard through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   and add the frog meat.
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Stuff the sausage into sheep casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   .
   
8.   
   8.
   Poach the links
   (see page 41)
   until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the sausage registers 155°F/68°C. The poached sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill them fully in an ice bath and refrigerate, or freeze for longer storage
   (see page 38)
   . When you're ready to eat the sausages, cook in a pan or griddle
   (see page 45)
   until browned and heated through.