Sausage Making (17 page)

Cure No. 1
(see page 15)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.11
  

Breadcrumbs

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 67
  
• GRAMS: 4.93
  

Finely chopped radicchio

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 14
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.00
  

Ground nutmeg

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.35
  

Ground anise

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.35
  

Ground cinnamon

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.05
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.32
  

Ground cloves

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.02
  

Nonfat dry milk powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 51
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.74
  

Red pepper flakes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.03
  

Ground ginger

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.06
  

Finely diced fresh pear, apple, or fuyu persimmon

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 109
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 8.00
  

Hog casings, rinsed

I think of boudin noir as a cased custard. In addition to the pork and blood, the delicate sausage also contains eggs and cream, which gives it a creamy texture. I add breadcrumbs as a binder in place of rice or flour, which you'll find in some versions, because I think it gives the sausage the best flavor.

I like to make and serve this richly spiced sausage in the winter, when I have access to nice winter fruit. It's a 4505 Meats holiday favorite, and during the long days that precede the holiday our crew eats boudin noir and eggs for breakfast before we start the workday.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   Pour the blood into a shallow baking dish, transfer to the freezer, and chill until very cold but not frozen.
   
3.   
   3.
   In a medium bowl, add the eggs, cream, salt, sugar, Cure No. 1, breadcrumbs, radicchio, nutmeg, anise, cinnamon, black pepper, cloves, milk powder, red pepper flakes, and ginger and stir to combine.
   
4.   
   4.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Transfer the meat to the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the spice mixture to the meat and mix on medium speed until the mixture is sticky. Reduce the mixer speed to low and slowly add the blood. Continue mixing on low until it is well incorporated; it should look homogenous and will stick to the bowl. Gently fold in the fruit.
   
6.   
   6.
   Spoon a few tablespoons of the mixture onto a length of plastic wrap. Fold the plastic wrap over the sausage to tightly encase it, then twist the two ends to form a link.
   
7.   
   7.
   Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil over high heat, then gently drop the plastic-wrapped link into the water, return the water to a simmer, then remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let stand 15 minutes. Unwrap the link, taste for seasoning, and adjust as necessary.
   
8.   
   8.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
9.   
   9.
   Stuff the sausage into the hog casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   .
   
10. 10.
    Poach the links
    (see page 41)
    until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the sausage registers 160°F/71°C. The poached sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill fully in an ice bath. The poached sausages can be vacuum-sealed or transferred to a plastic storage bag and refrigerated, or you can freeze them for longer storage
    (see page 46)
    . When you're ready to eat them, grill over indirect heat
    (see page 38)
    or cook in butter in a pan over medium heat
    (see page 45)
    until browned and heated through, basting frequently with the butter. If you'd like, you can add additional fruit to the pan and cook it alongside the sausage until softened.
    

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.20 lb
  
• GRAMS: 535
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 39.28
  

Pork liver, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.30 lb
  
• GRAMS: 147
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 10.80
  

Reserved pork cooking liquid

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 67
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.91
  

Cooked white rice, at room temperature

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 cups
  
• GRAMS: 468
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 34.37
  

Finely chopped fresh parsley

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 15
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.13
  

Minced green bell pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 33
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.46
  

Finely chopped green onions, both green and white parts

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 12
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.88
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 13
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.98
  

Freshly ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.09
  

Fresh thyme leaves

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ³
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.09
  

Cayenne pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.09
  

Boiled pork skin
(see page 19)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 67
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.92
  

Hog casings, rinsed

Unlike every other sausage in this book, the ingredients for the Cajun Boudin are fully cooked before the farce is mixed and stuffed. This sausage has roots in Louisiana, and traditionally contains both pork liver and rice. It's usually formed into links, but can also be formed into balls, rolled in breadcrumbs, and fried; boudin balls are a popular gas-station snack throughout Cajun country.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork shoulder in a medium saucepan and cover with 1 in/2.5 cm of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat so the liquid is barely simmering and cook, replenishing the water as necessary, until the pork shoulder is tender, about 1
   ¹
   /
   ₂
   hours. Add the liver and cook 15 minutes longer. Drain, reserving
   ¹
   /
   ₄
   cup/60 ml of the pork cooking liquid. Let the meat cool until you can handle it.
   
2.   
   2.
   In a medium bowl, add the reserved pork cooking liquid, rice, parsley, bell pepper, green onions, salt, black pepper, thyme, and cayenne and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the cooked pork shoulder, liver, and pork skin through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the rice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Stuff the sausage into the hog casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   .
   
8.   
   8.
   The meat in the sausage is fully cooked, but the links must still be smoked
   (see page 43)
   for 15 minutes to cook the casings. The smoked sausages can be eaten immediately, or chill them fully in an ice bath and refrigerate, or freeze for longer storage
   (see page 46)
   . When you're ready to eat them, lightly grill or sear the sausages until heated through or grill over indirect heat
   (see page 38)
   until browned and heated through.
   

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.20 lb
  
• GRAMS: 526
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 38.60
  

Boiled pork skin
(see page 19)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.40 lb
  
• GRAMS: 192
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 14.07
  

Boneless, skin-on duck thigh, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.75 lb
  
• GRAMS: 342
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 25.12
  

Ice water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 80
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 5.86
  

Pickled red onion
(see page 191, variation)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 55
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.02
  

Finely diced fennel bulb

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 41
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.02
  

Finely chopped green onions, dark green parts only

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 38
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.81
  

Finely diced red onion

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 27
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.01
  

White wine

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 23
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.66
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 16
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.16