Sausage Making

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Authors: Ryan Farr

BOOK: Sausage Making
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1.
Blood Bologna

2.
Butcher's Sausage

3.
The Kermit

4.
Smoked Trout and Pork Sausage

5.
Venison and Juniper Sausage

6.
Lao Sausage

7.
Liverwurst

8.
Truffled Boudin en Croute

9.
Bacon, Cheddar, and Beef Links

10.
Veal, Sweetbreads, and Morels en Croute

11.
Cajun Boudin

12.
Stinky Taleggio Crepinette

13.
Guinea Hen and Kimchee Links

14.
Chicken and Egg Galantine

15.
Summer Sausage

16.
Merguez

17.
Bierwurst

18.
Boudin Noir with Winter Fruit

19.
Smoked Polish Sausage

20.
Chorizo

21.
Maple-Bacon Breakfast Sausage

22.
Duck Confit and Cherry Terrine

23.
Linguiça

24.
Scottish White Pudding

25.
Duck Cotechino

To my wife, Cesalee, my son, Tanner,
and my daughter, Scarlett

Text copyright © 2014 by Ryan Farr.
Photographs copyright © 2014 by Ed Anderson.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reproduced in any form without written permission
from the publisher.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Farr, Ryan.
Sausage Making: the definitive guide with recipes/
Ryan Farr.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-4521-0178-1 (alk. paper hc)
ISBN 978-1-4521-0178-1 (epub, mobi)
1. Sausages. I. Title.

TS1974.S3F37 2014
641.3'6—dc23

2013026813

Designed by
VANESSA DINA
Typesetting by
Happenstance Type-O-Rama

Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com

Contents

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS p.
9

INTRODUCTION
p.
10

A SAUSAGE PRIMER
p.
12

CHAPTER 1
MEAT, SALT, FAT, AND TECHNIQUE
p.
16

SELECTING MEAT AND FAT FOR SAUSAGE
p. 19

Beef
p.19

Pork
p.19

Lamb
p.20

Goat
p.20

Chicken
p.20

Rabbit
p.20

Fish and Shellfish
p.20

Frog
p.20

Egg
p.20

Heavy Cream
p.20

Liver and Offal
p.21

Natural Fillers
p.21

STEP-BY-STEP MASTER TECHNIQUE
p.22

Grinding
p.22

Mixing
p.25

Stuffing
p.31

Twisting
p.36

COOKING AND KEEPING
p.38

Grilling
p.38

Poaching
p.41

Smoking
p.43

Panfrying
p.45

Freezing
p.46

CHAPTER 2
COARSE SAUSAGE
p.
48

MASTER RATIOS FROM RECIPES p.51

BACON, CHEDDAR, AND BEEF LINKS
p.52

BUTCHER'S SAUSAGE
p.54

CHORIZO
p.56

GOAT SAUSAGE WITH PEPPERS
p.58

MAPLE-BACON BREAKFAST SAUSAGE
p.60

MERGUEZ
p.62

SPICY ITALIAN SAUSAGE
p.64

STINKY TALEGGIO CREPINETTE
p.66

RABBIT CREPINETTE
p.68

CHAPTER 3
FIRM SAUSAGE
p.
70

MASTER RATIOS FROM RECIPES p.73

BEER BRATWURST
p.74

JERK DOGGY
p.76

LAO SAUSAGE
p.78

LINGUIÇA
p.80

SMOKED POLISH SAUSAGE
p.82

SUMMER SAUSAGE
p.84

TURKEY, APPLE, AND CAMPARI SAUSAGE
p.86

VENISON AND JUNIPER SAUSAGE
p.88

CHAPTER 4
SOFT SAUSAGE
p.
90

MASTER RATIOS FROM RECIPES p.93

BOUDIN NOIR WITH WINTER FRUIT
p.94

CAJUN BOUDIN
p.98

DUCK COTECHINO
p.100

GUINEA HEN AND KIMCHEE LINKS
p.102

THE KERMIT
p.104

SCRAPPLE
p.106

SCOTTISH WHITE PUDDING
p.108

CHAPTER 5
SMOOTH SAUSAGE
p.
110

MASTER RATIOS FROM RECIPES p.113

ALL-BEEF HOT DOGS
p.114

BIERWURST
p.116

BLOOD BOLOGNA
p.118

CHICKEN-BEER SAUSAGE
p.120

FOIE GRAS BOUDIN BLANC
p.122

LAMB WIENERS
p.126

LIVERWURST
p.128

SMOKED TROUT AND PORK SAUSAGE
p.130

CHAPTER 6
COMBINATION SAUSAGE
p.
132

CHICKEN AND EGG GALANTINE
p.136

DUCK CONFIT AND CHERRY TERRINE
p.142

TRUFFLED BOUDIN EN CROUTE
p.146

PIE PASTRY p.151

PIG'S HEAD TERRINE
p.152

WHOLE SUCKLING PIG BALLOTINE
p.156

VEAL, SWEETBREADS, AND MORELS EN CROUTE
p.164

CHAPTER 7
CONDIMENTS, BISCUITS, AND BUNS
p.
168

ANCHOVY AND MUSTARD AIOLI
p.172

BEER MUSTARD
p.174

CATSUP
p.176

CHIMICHURRI
p.178

CARAMELIZED ONIONS
p.180

GARLIC CONFIT
p.182

HARISSA
p.184

HORSERADISH AND BLACK PEPPER CREMA
p.186

LEMON VINAIGRETTE
p.188

PICKLED JALAPEÑOS
p.190

SAUERKRAUT
p.192

SPICY SLAW
p.194

BISCUITS
p.196

HOT DOG BUNS
p.198

RESOURCES
p.
200

INDEX
p.
202

Acknowledgments

To Cesalee: You make being an amazing mom and wife look so easy. I am humbled by you and at my best when we are together.

To Tanner and Scarlett: Watching you grow up is the greatest gift I could ever receive. I will always support you and your dreams, as you are supporting mine.

To my amazing family: Mom, Dad, Cathleen, Lauren, Chelsea, Caela, Carolyn, Hob, and all my aunts, uncles, and cousins, we share so many great memories that all start in the kitchen.

To all the hard-working, ass-kicking folks who have helped build 4505 Meats: Because of you, we are not only a meat company, we are a family. Special thanks to Dan, Kyle, Claire, Gerrardo, Thomas, Emma, Andrew, Jose, Kent, and Cole. Without you this book wouldn't have been possible. Thank you.

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