Sausage Making (26 page)

YIELD: ONE 3-LB./1.4-KG TERRINE

Veal sweetbreads, cleaned

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 153
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 11.22
  

Veal stock

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 cups
  
• GRAMS: —
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): —
  

Veal meat; 80% lean, 20% fat

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.20 lb
  
• GRAMS: 495
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 35.41
  

Egg

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  
• GRAMS: 45
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.30
  

Nonfat dry milk powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 52
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.46
  

Heavy cream

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 37
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.49
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 24
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.59
  

Fines herbes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 15
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.02
  

Cure No. 1
(see page 15)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.11
  

Crushed ice

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 151
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 10.07
  

Olive oil

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.25
  

Chopped morels

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 76
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 5.08
  

Dry vermouth

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 19
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.27
  

Pie Pastry
(page 151)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.50 lb
  
• GRAMS: 195
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 14.29
  

Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: —
  
• GRAMS: —
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): —
  

Gelatin Sheets

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 sheet
  
• GRAMS: 3
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.22
  

Madeira

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 139
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 10.22
  

Like the recipes in the Smooth Sausage chapter, this terrine contains an egg-and-cream-rich sausage farce that has been whipped in the food processor until light and smooth. The cooked, cubed sweetbreads and morels add both texture and flavor, and the golden pastry crust adds another element to this elegant presentation. The sweetbreads have to be cooked ahead and pressed overnight, so plan accordingly. For step-by-step photos showing how to assemble the terrine,
see page 149
.

1.   
   1.
   Fill a medium saucepan halfway with water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. As the water comes to a simmer, prepare an ice-water bath. Add the sweetbreads to the saucepan, let the water return to a simmer, and then transfer the sweetbreads to the ice bath with a slotted spoon.
   
2.   
   2.
   When the sweetbreads are completely cool, remove them from the ice bath and, with a sharp knife, peel the membrane from the exterior of the sweetbreads. Place a double thickness of paper towels on a rimmed baking sheet, then place the peeled sweetbreads on the paper towel. Cover with a second double thickness of paper towels and a second baking sheet, then place a can or other weight on top of the baking sheet. Transfer to the refrigerator and let stand overnight. The following day, bring the veal stock to a simmer in a saucepan. Add the pressed sweetbreads and poach for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool in the stock. When fully cool, cut the sweetbreads into
   ¹
   /
   ₂
   -in/12-mm cubes.
   
3.   
   3.
   Place the veal meat on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   In a small bowl, add the egg, milk powder, cream, salt, fines herbes, and Cure No. 1 and stir to combine.
   
5.   
   5.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the veal meat and the crushed ice, adding the ice a spoonful at a time as the mixture passes through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
6.   
   6.
   Add the milk mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
7.   
   7.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary. Transfer the farce to the refrigerator while you prepare the morels.
   
8.   
   8.
   In a small sauté pan over high heat, heat the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the morels and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, then add the vermouth, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the liquid has disappeared and the morels are tender, about 3 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside until completely cooled.
   
9.   
   9.
   Remove the farce from the refrigerator and gently fold in the cubed sweetbreads and the morels. Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
10. 10.
    Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Roll the pastry into a large rectangle about
    ¹
    /
    ₈
    in/3 mm thick. Using a 3-lb-/1.4-kg-capacity and 12-by-3-by-3
    ¹
    /
    ₄
    -in/30.5-by-7.5-by-8-cm hinged pâté mold or similar terrine mold to guide you, cut the pastry to fit the mold with about
    ¹
    /
    ₂
    in/12 mm of overhang on all sides; cut one piece of dough to form the lid. Use a small round pastry cutter to cut two holes in the lid piece.
    
11. 11.
    Lightly butter the inside of the terrine mold, then transfer the dough carefully to the mold and gently press so that the dough adheres to the sides of the terrine mold; if necessary, patch any holes or corners. Trim the overhang so that it's even on all sides.
    
12. 12.
    Spoon the meat mixture into the dough-lined terrine mold, smoothing the top, then bang the mold on the work surface to eliminate air bubbles. Fold the dough overhang over the top of the terrine to begin to form the lid, pressing gently.
    
13. 13.
    Brush the dough on the top of the terrine with some of the egg wash. Lay the lid piece of dough on top of the terrine, pressing gently so that it adheres to the egg-washed pastry beneath. Press any overhanging edges down inside the mold.
    
14. 14.
    Cut two pieces of foil into rectangles, about 6 in/15 cm long by 4 in/10 cm wide. Fold each rectangle in half lengthwise, then roll into a tube. Place one tube in each of the holes that you have cut in the surface of the terrine; this will allow steam and juices to escape without marring the surface of the terrine.
    
15. 15.
    Brush the entire surface of the pastry lid with the remaining egg wash, then transfer the terrine to the oven and bake for 1 hour 15 minutes, or until the terrine reaches an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C (insert the thermometer in one of the chimneys to check) and the top is nicely browned.
    
16. 16.
    Remove from the oven and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill for at least 8 hours or overnight.
    
17. 17.
    The next day, soak the gelatin sheet in cold water for 5 to 10 minutes. Gently heat the Madeira in a small saucepan over low heat (do not let it boil), then wring out the gelatin sheet and add to the Madeira, stirring until completely dissolved. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool slightly. Remove the terrine from the refrigerator and carefully pour the Madeira through the chimneys, dividing evenly. Return the terrine to the refrigerator and refrigerate overnight. When you're ready to serve the terrine, carefully unmold it on a cutting board and cut with a sharp knife into thin slices.
    

Every sausage in this book is flavorful enough to be eaten on its own, with no accompaniment. But what fun is that? This chapter features all the things that go on a good sausage, including catsup, beer mustard, and sauerkraut; the things that go alongside a good sausage, like a big green salad dressed with our lemon vinaigrette and spicy coleslaw; and vehicles for sausage, such as buns (of course) and buttery biscuits.

In a pinch, a store-bought condiment, side dish, or bun is just fine. But if you're challenging yourself to make exceptional sausages, you may as well go the extra mile and make the rest from scratch, too.