Sausage Making (28 page)

Cumin seeds, finely ground

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 19
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.22
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 19
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.17
  

Chipotle powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 17
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.68
  

Caraway seeds, coarsely ground

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 16
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.49
  

Red pepper flakes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 13
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.82
  

Fennel seeds, coarsely ground

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 11
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.44
  

Dry spearmint

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.25
  

For years I relied on another company's harissa spice blend to make my Merguez
(page 62)
. The price of the blend crept up over the years until it reached nearly $45 a pound; that was when I decided to make my own. Unlike the prepared harissa that you typically find at the store, this is a dry spice blend. I use it in combination with tomato paste in the merguez, but it can be mixed with olive oil to form a paste that can then be rubbed on chicken or pork before cooking.

1.   
   1.
   In a medium bowl, whisk together the salt, ancho chile powder, granulated garlic, paprika, cayenne, sugar, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black pepper, chipotle powder, caraway seeds, red pepper flakes, fennel seeds, and spearmint.
   
2.   
   2.
   Transfer to a lidded glass jar. The spice blend will keep indefinitely, but is best used within a few months.
   

YIELD: 2 CUPS/480 ML

Sour cream

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 cups
  
• GRAMS: 288
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 63.54
  

Freshly grated horseradish

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 51
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 11.24
  

Finely chopped fresh parsley

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 39
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 8.65
  

Heavy cream

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 35
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 7.64
  

Water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 20
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.32
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 7
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.59
  

Lemon zest

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 7
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.44
  

Lemon juice

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.15
  

Freshly ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.43
  

Beef and horseradish are a classic pairing, and I like spreading this condiment on any of the beef or lamb sausages in the book. Freshly grated horseradish root has an appealing nose- clearing quality and is much more pungent than the jars of pre-grated stuff you find at the grocery store, so use that if you can find it.

1.   
   1.
   In a medium bowl, whisk together the sour cream, horseradish, parsley, heavy cream, water, salt, lemon zest, lemon juice, and black pepper. (Season with additional salt, lemon juice, or pepper, if desired.)
   
2.   
   2.
   Transfer to a lidded container and refrigerate; it will keep for 1 week.
   

MAKES: 2 CUPS/480 ML

Lemon juice

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 222
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 49.00
  

Finely chopped fresh parsley leaves

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 13
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.90
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 7
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.60
  

Freshly ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.50
  

Extra-virgin olive oil

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 209
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 46.00
  

This is the 4505 Meats “house dressing.” I love serving sausages alongside a big green salad, using whatever seasonal greens are available at the farmers' market, and more often than not this is the dressing that I'll use. Invest in a bottle of good-quality olive oil and use it here—you'll taste the difference.

1.   
   1.
   In a medium bowl, add the lemon juice, parsley, salt, and black pepper and whisk to combine. Very slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking continuously, until it has all been incorporated and the dressing looks emulsified. (Season with additional salt and pepper, if desired.)
   
2.   
   2.
   The dressing will keep in a lidded jar in the refrigerator for 3 days; let it come to room temperature before using.
   

YIELD: 2 CUPS/455 G

Fresh jalapeño chiles, sliced into
¹
/
₈
-in-/3-mm-thick rings

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.85 lb
  
• GRAMS: 192
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 42.34
  

White vinegar

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 119
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 26.29
  

Water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 119
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 26.28
  

Sugar

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 14
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.18
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 9
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.91
  

I'm kind of addicted to pickling, and I use this basic brine to pickle tons of vegetables, from carrots to onions to chiles. The chiles are an awesome burger and sausage topping and a key ingredient in our Spicy Slaw
(page 194)
.

1.   
   1.
   Place the jalapeño chiles in a 1-quart-/1-liter-size glass jar. In a medium nonreactive saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, then remove from the heat and let stand for 30 minutes.
   
2.   
   2.
   Pour the liquid over the chiles and let cool completely. Cover the jar and refrigerate for 2 weeks before using.
   

This recipe can also be used for shallots or red onions, as well as carrots, cauliflower, and radishes. Thinly slice all vegetables before pickling them. Shallots and red onions will be ready in as little as 3 hours, while the heartier vegetables should sit in the pickling liquid for 2 weeks.

YIELD: 10 CUPS/2.3 KG

Finely shredded green cabbage

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 5.00 lb
  
• GRAMS: 2,268
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 97.30
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 3 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 57
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.50
  

Caraway seeds

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.20
  

Sauerkraut is a sausage's best friend. I love the flavor of this naturally fermented version, which develops gradually over its three-week maturation period. During that time the sauerkraut becomes tart and funky but retains its crunch, which I believe is a key attribute of a good kraut. This makes a big batch, but it goes fast. While it's terrific on a grilled sausage, it's also the foundation of French
choucroute garnie
and is mighty tasty added to a grilled cheese sandwich.

1.   
   1.
   In a large plastic or ceramic container, combine the cabbage, salt, and caraway seeds and mix well with your hands. Cover tightly and let stand at warm room temperature (about 75°F/24°C; if your kitchen is cool, you can put it on top of your refrigerator) until the mixture begins to release liquid, about 2 days.
   
2.   
   2.
   Transfer to an electric stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on medium speed for 2 minutes until more juices (brine) have been released. Pack the cabbage into five pint-size canning jars, making sure brine covers the cabbage by at least 1 in/2.5 cm and leaving 1 in/2.5 cm to 2 in/5 cm of space at the top.
   
3.   
   3.
   Let the jars stand in a cool, dark place (approximately 65°F/18°C to 70°F/21°C) for 5 days. Slowly open and quickly close jars to gently release built-up pressure, being careful not to let the liquid bubble out. Let stand for 5 days longer. Reopen jars to release pressure.
   
4.   
   4.
   Let stand for 5 days longer (for a total of 15 days), then taste to determine if the kraut is sour enough. Let stand until the kraut is to your liking, continuing to open the jars every few days to release pressure. When the sauerkraut is as sour as you like it, transfer the jars to the refrigerator. The kraut will continue to ferment, but slowly. Open the containers periodically to release gas; the sauerkraut will keep, refrigerated, for 3 months.
   

YIELD: 4 CUPS/910 G

Shredded green cabbage

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 5 cups
  
• GRAMS: 650
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 71.54
  

Pickled Jalapeños
(page 190)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 29
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.16
  

Pickled Jalapeño liquid
(see page 190)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 86
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 9.47
  

Pickled carrots
(see page 191, variation)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 29
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.16
  

Pickled red onion
(see page 191, variation)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 29
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.16
  

Thinly sliced raw red onion

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 29
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 3.16
  

Finely chopped fresh cilantro

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 16
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.77
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.20
  

Extra-virgin olive oil

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 3 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 40
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.40
  

Though I like coleslaw that is dressed with the standard sweet mayonnaise-based dressing, this spicy slaw is a lighter alternative. The method for making it is a bit different, too—I toss half of the cabbage with the pickled vegetables and pickling liquid and let it sit overnight so that it softens and absorbs that vinegary flavor, then stir in the remaining cabbage just before serving so that the finished slaw has crunch and body.

1.   
   1.
   In a large bowl, add half of the cabbage, the pickled jalapeños, jalapeño pickling liquid, pickled carrots, pickled red onion, and raw red onion and stir well to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand, refrigerated, overnight.
   
2.   
   2.
   Just before serving, stir in the remaining cabbage, cilantro, salt, and olive oil and mix until well combined. (Season as desired with additional salt and coarsely ground black pepper.)
   

YIELD: 12 BISCUITS

Cake flour

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 5 cups
  
• GRAMS: 609
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 44.69
  

Baking powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp +
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 24
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.78
  

Baking soda

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp +
  ³
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 17
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.22
  

Salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ³
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 8
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.56
  

Cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.50 lb + 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 309
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 22.70
  

Buttermilk

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cups
  
• GRAMS: 396
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 29.05
  

An egg, sausage, and biscuit sandwich is one of the greatest ways to start the day. These flaky numbers are sturdy enough to hold up to the sandwich treatment, but light enough that they melt in your mouth. Split them and top them with patties of Maple-Bacon Breakfast Sausage
(page 60)
and a fried egg, or use them as the base for a killer batch of biscuits and sausage gravy.

1.   
   1.
   Preheat the oven to 415°F/212°C. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or two knives, cut 0.50 lb/227 g of the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse meal.
   
2.   
   2.
   Turn the dry mixture out onto a lightly floured work surface and drizzle the buttermilk over. Using the tips of your fingers, incorporate the buttermilk into the dry ingredients, taking care not to overwork the mixture. The dough will be wet but should not be sticky. Press the dough into a shaggy circle. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough out to
   ¹
   /
   ₂
   in/12 mm thick. Using a 2
   ¹
   /
   ₄
   -in/5.5-cm round cutter, cut out the biscuits as close as possible. Gather the dough scraps and knead together, then roll the dough out again and cut out additional biscuits. Discard any remaining scraps.
   
3.   
   3.
   Arrange the biscuits, sides touching, on an ungreased baking sheet. Melt the remaining 1 tbsp butter, then brush the top of each biscuit with melted butter. Bake until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
   
4.   
   4.
   Transfer to a cooling rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.