Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Plan Ahead
Macerate the berries at least 2 hours ahead.
Special Equipment
One 12-inch (8 cups) or 11 by 2½-inch (10 cups) fluted tart pan with a recess (see
Unusual Specialty Pans
), coated with baking spray with flour, or one 9 or 10 by 2-inch round cake pan, coated with baking spray with flour, then bottom lined with parchment
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.
Make the Cake
If using the 8-cup pan, make the
White Gold Passion Génoise
batter, using the same weight all-purpose flour (¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons/3.5 ounces/100 grams). If using the 10-cup pan, make the
Génoise Rose
batter.
Bake the cake for 15 to 25 minutes, or until it is deep golden brown and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center.
Unmold and Cool the Cake
Immediately invert the cake onto a wire rack topped with parchment cut to size. Carefully lift off the pan and allow the cake to cool completely decorative side up. If using a 9 by 2-inch round cake pan, invert the cake onto a wire rack that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray and reinvert it immediately onto a second rack, leaving the parchment in place on the bottom. When cool, wrap the cake airtight in plastic wrap coated lightly with baking spray until ready to use. The cake keeps for 5 days at room temperature, for 1 week refrigerated, and for 3 months frozen.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
strawberries, hulled | 4 cups | 1 pound | 454 |
raspberries | 2 cups | 8 | 227 |
red currants | 1 cup | 5.5 | 156 |
superfine sugar | 1/3 cup | 2.3 | 66 |
Chambord black raspberry liqueur (optional) | 2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce) | 1 | 32 |
Macerate the Berries
In a medium bowl, combine the strawberries, raspberries, and currants and sprinkle them with the 1/3 cup of sugar. Holding on to either side of the bowl, toss them gently together. Allow them to sit for 2 hours. Place the berries in a strainer suspended over a bowl and allow the syrup to drain into the bowl. Toss very gently just a few times, so as not to break up the fruit, and tap the strainer against the bowl to release the juices without disturbing the berries. After about 15 minutes, the berries will release about 2/3 cup juice (more if the berries are riper, less fresh, or if they have been sitting longer).
For the cake baked in the 8-cup pan, add 2 tablespoons/about 1 ounce/25 grams sugar and bring the syrup to a full boil, stirring constantly. Pour it into a 2-cup or larger heatproof glass measure and allow it to cool until no longer hot. Add the Chambord, if using, and then water to equal ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons/7 fluid ounces of syrup.
For the cake baked in the 10-cup pan, add ¼ cup/1.7 ounces/50 grams sugar and repeat as above, but add water to equal 1 cup/8 fluid ounces of syrup.
Cover the syrup tightly with plastic wrap and set aside.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
crème fraîche, cold | 1 cup (8 fluid ounces) | 8.2 | 232 |
superfine sugar | 1 tablespoon | 0.5 | 12 |
Make the Whipped Crème Fraîche
In a mixing bowl, combine the crème fraîche and sugar and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.
Using a whisk or handheld mixer on low speed, whip only until soft peaks form when the whisk is raised. This will happen very quickly. It will not increase in volume. The whipped crème fraîche can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
heavy cream, cold | 1 cup (8 fluid ounces) | 8.2 | 232 |
superfine sugar | 1 tablespoon | 0.5 | 12 |
pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon | . | . |
Make the Whipped Cream
In a mixing bowl, combine the heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the mixer's beaters alongside the bowl.)
Starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, whip until the mixture mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. The whipped cream can be refrigerated for up to 6 hours; see
Stabilized Whipped Cream
, for tips on whipping cream.
Compose the Cake
If using a pan with a recess, reinvert the cake onto a wire rack that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray and peel off the parchment. Use a long serrated knife to remove any of the crust still on the bottom of the cake.
If using a pan without a recess, also remove the parchment and any remaining crust not pulled off by the parchment. Reinvert the cake and use a small sharp knife to cut a ¼- to 3/8-inch-deep circle out of the center of the cake, leaving a ½-inch-wide rim around the outer edge of the cake.
Brush the bottom of the cake with about one-third of the syrup, applying more toward the outside than the center. Slip an open-sided baking sheet, lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray, under the cake and carefully invert it onto a serving plate. Brush on the remaining syrup, applying more toward the outside edges than the center, which will be moistened further by the berries.
Up to 1 hour before serving, spoon the berries into the well. Serve with a bowl of the whipped crème fraîche or whipped cream. No vanilla is used with the crème fraîche as it dulls its flavor.
Just before serving, decorate the cake with little
Crisp Meringue Kisses
or dust very lightly with powdered sugar.
If you are from Barcelona or have visited there, you know that this cake is actually known as pinch bread, because originally it was baked in a loaf shape. Now, however, it usually appears as tall cupcakes encased in wings of parchment. The name is derived partially from the recommended way of eating it: pinching out pieces of the fluffy cake between your fingers. This most exquisite of all versions is called Salt because it was created in 1985 by Miquel B. Costabella, baker and pâtissier of Salt Bakery, which was named after the village of Salt, close to Girona, Spain.
What makes the recipe so special is the substitution of almond flour (finely ground almonds) for most of the regular wheat flour, which results in a more spongy, moist texture and an almond-imbued flavor.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
sliced almonds, preferably unblanched | 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons | 4 | 112 |
superfine sugar | ¾ cup plus 2½ tablespoons, divided | 6.3 | 181 |
6 large eggs | 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (9.5 fluid ounces) | 10.6 | 300 |
2 large egg whites, at room temperature | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces) | 2 | 60 |
lemon zest, finely grated | 1 teaspoon, loosely packed | . | . |
cake flour (or bleached all-purpose flour) | ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (or ½ cup), sifted into the cup and leveled off | 2 | 56 |
Special Equipment
One 9 by 2½- to 3-inch springform or cake pan, coated with shortening, bottom and sides lined with parchment. For the sides cut a 33 by 3-inch band of parchment, overlapping an extra piece if necessary to make it long enough. Wrap and press it against the inside wall of the pan. Use some extra shortening to coat the overlapping ends to hold them in place against the first strip of parchment.
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C.
Toast and Grind the Almonds
Spread the almonds evenly on a baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes, or until pale golden. Stir once or twice to ensure even toasting and avoid overbrowning. Cool completely. In a food processor, pulse the almonds and 2½ tablespoons of the sugar until as fine as possible. Stop before the nuts start to become pasty.
Prepare the Eggs
Pour the whole eggs into a 2-cup measure with a spout and whisk them lightly to break them up.
Mix the Meringue
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the egg whites on medium-low speed until foamy. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining sugar, stopping the mixer once to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Continue beating until the meringue is very thick and glossy, but it will not be smooth. Detach the whisk from the mixer and use it to stir the almond mixture into the meringue until evenly incorporated.
Make the Batter
Reattach the whisk beater and, with the mixer on medium speed, add the beaten egg to the meringue 2 tablespoons at a time, beating for 2 minutes between each addition. It should take a total of 20 to 25 minutes, but be sure to beat for a minimum of 20 minutes. Beat in the lemon zest. Remove the bowl and beater from the stand. While the mixture is beating, weigh or measure out the flour.
Sift the flour onto the batter and, using the whisk beater or a large balloon whisk, fold in the flour until fully incorporated. Reach to the bottom of the bowl and be sure that no white specks of flour remain. The best way to accomplish this is with your fingers, pinching any bits of flour to moisten them. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. (If using a 2-inch-high pan, the batter will come almost to the top of the pan.)
Bake the Cake
Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed very lightly in the center. The cake will rise just a little and then sink slightly in the center.
Unmold and Cool the Cake
Set the pan on a wire rack and immediately loosen and remove the sides, leaving the parchment attached to the cake. (If using a solid pan, lift the cake out using the parchment and set it on the wire rack.) Allow the cake to cool until it is warm or room temperature, about 1 hour. Set the cake, still in the parchment, on a serving plate. (Leave the parchment in place until the entire cake is consumed.)
Delicious eaten in the traditional way by pinching out pieces of the fluffy cake, the cake is also lovely for a tea: Serve pinched or sliced with fresh raspberries and lightly sweetened whipped cream. The cake keeps wrapped airtight for 1 week at room temperature, for 10 days refrigerated, and for 6 months frozen.
Highlights for Success
Sliced almonds are easiest to grind powder fine without having the oils start to separate and make the nuts pasty. If only slivered or whole are available, grate them first before processing.
Unblanched almonds (i.e., the brown skin has not been removed) add flavor and color to the cake, but the cake is still delicious if made using blanched almonds.