Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Make the Apricot Ganache Filling
In a food processor, process the chocolate until very fine.
In a 1-cup or larger microwavable cup with a spout (or in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often), scald the cream (heat it to the boiling point; small bubbles will form around the periphery).
With the motor of the food processor running, pour the cream through the feed tube in a steady stream. Process for a few seconds until smooth. Pulse in the apricot brandy and vanilla. Scrape the ganache into a glass bowl and allow it to sit for 1 hour. Cover it with plastic wrap and allow it to cool for several hours, or until the mixture reaches frosting consistency.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
cold water | 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (just under 1.5 fluid ounces) | 1.5 | 39 |
powdered gelatin | 1½ teaspoons | . | . |
sugar | ½ cup | 3.5 | 100 |
water | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces) | 2 | 59 |
corn syrup | 1 tablespoon | 0.7 | 21 |
unsweetened (alkalized) cocoa powder | 2/3 cup (sifted before measuring) | 1.7 | 50 |
heavy cream | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces) | 2 | 58 |
Make the Lacquer Glaze
Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium metal bowl.
In a small bowl, pour in the 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons cold water and sprinkle the gelatin over the top. Stir to moisten and soften the gelatin and allow it to sit for a minimum of 5 minutes. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation and set aside.
In a small heavy saucepan, whisk together the sugar and ¼ cup water over medium heat. Stir constantly with the whisk to dissolve the sugar.
Remove the pan from the heat and, with the whisk, gently stir in the corn syrup and then cocoa until smooth, making sure to reach into the corners of the pan. The mixture will be glossy. Using a silicone spatula, stir in the cream. Return the pan to medium heat and, stirring constantly, bring the mixture to the boiling point (190°F/88°C). Bubbles will just start to form around the edges.
Remove the pan from the heat and strain the mixture into the metal bowl. Allow it to cool slightly, for about 10 minutes. An instant-read thermometer should register 122° to 140°F/50° to 60°C. With the silicone spatula, stir in the softened gelatin until it is dissolved completely and no longer streaky.
Strain the glaze into a 2-cup glass measure or bowl. (Metal will impart an undesirable flavor if the glaze is stored in it.) Allow it to cool for a few minutes, stirring very gently so as not to incorporate any air. For this cake, the glaze coats best when just made (90°F/32°C). If the glaze is made ahead and reheated, it will be thicker and should be used at 92° to 95°F/34°C.
Once cool (after about 1 hour), the glaze can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for several months. Reheat it in a double boiler over hot, not simmering, water or very carefully in a microwave with 3-second bursts, stirring gently to ensure that it doesn't overheat or incorporate air.
Compose the Cake Roll
If you are glazing the cake, you will need a long cake rack and an aluminum foil—covered cardboard base that is slightly narrower than the cake to support it but that will allow the glaze to fall through the rack; the base should be 3 to 4 inches longer on either end to make moving the cake easier.
Gently unroll the cake. If a liner was used, carefully detach the cake from it and then lay the cake back down on it. If using syrup, brush it evenly over the surface.
Measure out ½ cup/5.3 ounces/150 grams lekvar, if using, into a small bowl or cup and add extra apricot brandy or water if necessary to reach a stiff but spreadable consistency. Using a small offset spatula, spread it evenly and thinly over the top of the cake roll.
Measure out 1 cup/9 ounces/257 grams ganache filling and spread it evenly on top of the lekvar, leaving about ½ inch bare at one short end.
Starting from the other end, use the liner or towel to lift the edge of the cake and roll it forward. Make a fairly tight and even roll by cupping your hands over the cake and pressing gently along the roll after each turn. When the cake is rolled completely, roll it seam side down onto the foil-covered base. The seam needs to be on the underside of the cake, so if necessary, roll it first onto a piece of parchment and use the parchment to flip it over seam side down.
Glaze the Cake
Place the roll on its base onto a wire rack that is set on top of a half-sheet pan to catch excess glaze. With a small offset spatula, use about 3 tablespoons of the remaining ganache to spread the thinnest possible crumb coating onto the cake's surface to ensure an even glaze. Place the cake in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to set the coating before pouring the glaze on top.
A minimum of 2 hours ahead of serving, pour the lacquer glaze evenly over the cake, coating the top and sides completely. (The ends will be trimmed afterward.) If necessary, using a small metal spatula, touch up any small areas that the glaze may have missed. Any tiny bubbles, should they appear, can be pierced with a sharp needle. (You'll need only about ¾ cup/7.6 ounces/216 grams and, of that, only 4½ tablespoons/3 ounces/86 grams actually coats the cake. You can recoup the remaining glaze from the sheet pan, straining it if necessary, and use it to top cupcakes.)
Use two pancake turners to slip well under each end, between the cake and the aluminum foil, to transfer the cake to a serving plate or long board. You can also move the cake after the glaze has set because it will not wrinkle. Allow the cake to sit in a cool area (not a warm kitchen) until serving. It is at its most shiny within 6 hours of pouring the glaze. It can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours if the ends are covered with plastic wrap, but be sure to bring it to room temperature before serving. If it is refrigerated, it will lose a little of its glossy shine. To revive the shine, wave a hair dryer set on low heat briefly over the cake. With a serrated knife, trim the two ends at a slight angle.
It was exciting to discover that this moist and gossamer cornerstone of French cake baking can be made in a decorative mold. And the beauty of it is that it demonstrates that the cake is delicious enough to stand alone without the further adornment of frosting.
For this cake, I prefer to use cake flour or all-purpose flour with cornstarch for the highest possible rise.
Plan Ahead
For best flavor, complete the cake 1 day ahead.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
clarified butter, preferably beurre noisette (see | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces) | 1.7 | 50 |
pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon | . | . |
5 large eggs | 1 cup (8 fluid ounces) | 8.7 | 250 |
superfine sugar | ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons | 4.5 | 125 |
cake flour (or bleached all-purpose flour) | 2/3 cup (or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon), sifted into the cup and leveled off | 2.3 | 66 |
cornstarch | ½ cup | 2 | 60 |