Rose's Heavenly Cakes (14 page)

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Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum

BOOK: Rose's Heavenly Cakes
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Beat the Egg Yolks

Have ready a 1-cup heatproof glass measure, lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray.

In a medium bowl, with a handheld mixer, beat the yolks until light in color. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, preferably nonstick, combine the sugar, golden syrup, and lemon juice. Using a silicone spatula, stir until all the sugar is moistened. Heat over medium-high, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup begins to boil around the edges. Stop stirring and continue cooking for a few minutes, until the syrup comes to a rolling boil. (The entire surface will be covered with large bubbles.) Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.

Complete the Buttercream

If using a handheld mixer, beat the syrup into the yolks in a steady stream. Don't allow the syrup to fall on the beaters or the beaters will spin it onto the sides of the bowl. If using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, with the mixer turned off, pour a small amount of syrup over the yolks. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. For the last addition, use a silicone spatula to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure and scrape it off against the beater. Continue beating for 5 minutes. Then allow it to cool completely. To speed cooling, place the bowl in an ice water bath (see
Water Baths
) or in the refrigerator, stirring occasionally.

When cool, beat in the butter 1 tablespoon at a time on medium speed. The buttercream will not thicken until almost all of the butter has been added. Add the vanilla and pistachio essence, if using, and beat on low speed until incorporated.

Place the buttercream in an airtight bowl. Use it at once (it will have a slight crunch until it stands for several hours) or up to 4 hours later. If you are keeping it longer, refrigerate it and bring it to room temperature before using. To restore its texture, rebeat it, but not until it has reached room temperature, in order to avoid curdling.

Highlights for Success

The sugar syrup must be boiling all over the surface before pouring it into the eggs in order to thicken properly.

Using a handheld beater makes it easier to keep the syrup from spinning onto the sides of the bowl. The egg and syrup mixture must be completely cool to the touch before you add the butter.

For the finest crystal structure, be sure to use superfine sugar.

If the flavor of your pistachio nuts is on the mild side, 3 drops of pistachio essence (see La Cuisine in
Ingredients Sources
) added to the buttercream or even to the cake will do much to intensify the flavor.

Compose the Cake

When the cake is completely cool, spread a little buttercream on a 9-inch cardboard round or serving plate and set the cake on top. If using the plate, slide a few wide strips of wax paper or parchment under the cake to keep the rim of the plate clean. Frost the top and sides with swirls of buttercream. Coat the top and sides with the slivered or chopped pistachios. If using the paper strips, slowly slide them out from under the cake.

Gâteau Breton
Serves:
10 to 12
Baking Time:
35 to 45 minutes

Gâteau Breton is crisp like a pastry around the outside edge, but has a soft, dense, and moist interior. In Brittany, this gâteau (ga-TOH), a cross between shortbread and pound cake, is made with equal parts butter, sugar, and flour, but with about one-third eggs. (If it were to have an equal part of eggs, it would be the ubiquitous
quatre-quarts,
or "pound cake.") This recipe is most similar to my favorite of all pastries, Gâteau Basque in
The Pie and Pastry Bible.
The Gâteau Basque is less rich because it has a little less sugar, only half the butter, and half the eggs, making it more like a pastry than a cake. Interesting that the two regions in France are so separated geographically yet came up with such similar gâteaux.

For my interpretation of Gâteau Breton, I have decreased the sugar to 60 percent of the flour and added ground almonds for extra flavor and subtle texture. Since the success of this recipe depends on the best-quality high-fat butter, I use Organic Valley European-Style Cultured Butter with 84 percent butterfat or Vermont cultured butter with 86 percent butterfat, which are similar to the butters of Normandy and Brittany. Plugra, which has 80 percent butterfat and is not "cultured," is also an excellent choice. When beating in the egg yolks, the higher-fat butter emulsifies the yolks smoothly and quickly. But with lower butterfat butter the finished texture is just as good.

Gâteau Breton is most cakelike on day one, but it progressively approaches the shortbread spectrum and is still excellent even after a week at room temperature. Another of this cake's virtues is that it is exceptionally quick and easy to prepare.

Batter

Volume

Ounce

Gram

blanched sliced almonds

½ cup

1.5

42

superfine sugar

¾ cup, divided

5.3

150

salt (see
Notes
)

¼ teaspoon

.

.

unsalted butter, preferably high fat (or high-quality lightly salted butter), 65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C (see
Notes
)

2 sticks plus 2 tablespoons (or 2½ sticks)

9 (or 10)

255 (or 284)

about 4 large egg yolks, at room temperature

¼ cup plus ½ tablespoon (2.6 fluid ounces)

2.6

74

kirsch, dark rum, or water

1 tablespoon (0.5 fluid ounce)

0.5

15

pure vanilla extract

1¼ teaspoons

.

.

bleached all-purpose flour

2 cups (sifted into the cup and leveled off) plus 3 tablespoons

8.7

250

1 whole egg, lightly beaten

about 1 tablespoon

.

.

Special Equipment

One 9½ by 1 3/8-inch (or 1-inch) fluted tart pan with removable bottom, preferably nonstick (see
Notes
), set on a rimmed baking pan, or one 9 by 2-inch round cake pan, encircled with a cake strip, coated with baking spray with flour

Preheat the Oven

Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C.

Toast and Grind the Almonds

Spread the almonds evenly on a baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes, or until pale gold. Stir once or twice to ensure even toasting and avoid overbrowning. Cool completely. In a food processor, process the almonds with about ¼ cup of the sugar and the salt until fairly fine but not powder fine.

Make the Batter

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, mix together the remaining sugar and the butter on medium speed for about 1 minute until smooth and creamy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat in the yolks, 1 at a time, beating for about 20 seconds between each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Add the almond mixture, kirsch, and vanilla and mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for about 20 seconds until evenly incorporated. Add the flour in four parts, beating on the lowest speed for about 15 seconds and turning off the mixer between additions. Detach the beater and, with a silicone spatula, finish mixing in any flour that may remain, reaching to the bottom of the bowl. Using the silicone spatula, scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface evenly with a small offset spatula. If you are using a 1-inch-high tart pan, the batter will be about ¼ inch from the top of the pan and will rise to about ¼ inch above the top during baking. In a 1 3/8-inch-high pan, the batter will be about 1 inch from the top and rise to about 3/8 inch from the top. (If using a cake pan, the gâteau will rise higher and dip slightly in the middle.)

Glaze the Top of the Cake

With the beaten egg, brush the top of the cake well, using a little less than 1 tablespoon. Use the tines of a fork to make a crosshatch of three to five long lines in two directions. (If the batter has softened, refrigerate or freeze it briefly to make it more firm.) The fork lines will help prevent the batter from puffing up unevenly and after baking will leave a bare tracing.

Bake the Cake

Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until deep golden brown and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center. It should just begin to come away from the sides of the pan. An instant-read thermometer will register about 205°F/96°C.

Cool and Unmold the Cake

Let the cake cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. If using a pan with a removable bottom, remove the sides of the pan. Invert the cake onto a cookie sheet and remove the pan bottom. Reinvert it onto a serving plate. Cool completely.

Notes

My favorite fluted tart pan is nonstick and 9½ by 1 3/8 inches. It is manufactured by Gobel (see JB Prince in
Equipment Sources
or La Cuisine in
Ingredients Sources
)

If using Vermont salted butter, which is lightly salted, use only 1/8 teaspoon salt. Butter that is 80 percent fat contains about 2 tablespoons more water than the 86 percent, which will result in a slightly moister crumb. If you prefer a moister crumb and you want to use the higher 86 percent butter, you can add 2 tablespoons water to the batter when adding the almonds. (If using 84 percent butter, you can add 4 teaspoons water.)

Golden Baker's sugar from India Tree (See
Ingredients Sources
) imparts an especially lovely flavor to this cake.

Sticky Toffee "Pudding"
Serves:
12
Baking Time:
25 to 30 minutes

Jenn Giblin, pastry chef of Blue Smoke, came up with this stellar version of this popular dessert. She uses stout beer, giving it the most compelling flavor of any I have tasted. The cake, which in England is referred to as a pudding, dissolves in your mouth.

The toffee sauce is the ideal accompaniment; it absorbs deliciously about an eighth inch into the top of the cake. An additional and unusual accompaniment, served by pastry chef Letty Flatt, is vanilla ice cream flavored with root beer extract.

Batter

Volume

Ounce

Gram

stout beer, preferably Guinness extra stout (see
Notes
)

1 cup (8 fluid ounces)

8

227

baking soda

1 teaspoon

.

.

large dates, pitted (see
Notes
)

about 6

6

170

unsalted butter (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C)

6 tablespoons (¾ stick)

3

85

sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons

8

225

pure vanilla extract

1½ teaspoons

.

.

3 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup plus 1½ tablespoons (4.7 fluid ounces)

5.3

150

bleached all-purpose flour

2 cups (sifted into the cup and leveled off)

8

228

baking powder

1 teaspoon

.

.

salt

¼ teaspoon

.

.

cinnamon

1 teaspoon

.

.

nutmeg

½ teaspoon

.

.

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