Rose's Heavenly Cakes (30 page)

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Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum

BOOK: Rose's Heavenly Cakes
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Cool and Unmold the Cake

Invert the pan immediately, placing the tube opening over the neck of the bottle to suspend it well above the countertop. Cool completely in the pan, about 1½ hours.

Loosen the sides of the pan with a long narrow spatula and remove the center core of the pan. Dislodge the cake from the bottom and center core with a metal spatula or thin sharp knife. (A wire cake tester or wooden skewer works well around the core. To keep the sides attractive, press the spatula firmly against the sides of the pan, moving the spatula up and down as you go around it.) Invert the cake onto a flat plate covered with plastic wrap that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray and reinvert it onto a serving plate. Allow the cake to sit for 1 hour, or until the top is no longer tacky. Then cover it with a cake dome or wrap it airtight. It keeps for 3 days at room temperature and for 10 days refrigerated. Freezing toughens the texture. The cake is also lovely decorated simply with a light sprinkling of cocoa or lacy drizzles of melted chocolate.

Spangled Whipped Cream
Makes:
5¾ cups/24 ounces/680 grams

Volume

Ounce

Gram

heavy cream, cold

2 cups (16 fluid ounces)

16.5

464

superfine sugar

2 tablespoons

1

25

pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon

.

.

dark chocolate, 60% to 62% cacao, chilled, finely grated, refrigerated

1 cup

5

142

finely ground almonds (preferably lightly toasted before grinding)

½ cup

2

54

optional garnish: Valrhona Les Perles or semisweet mini chocolate chips

½ cup

3

85

Make the Chocolate-Spangled Whipped Cream

In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the heavy cream and sugar and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes (chill the whisk beater alongside the bowl).

Whip the cream and sugar, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, just until traces of beater marks begin to show distinctly. Add the vanilla and whip just until the cream mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. Add the chocolate and almonds. With a large silicone spatula, fold them into the whipped cream until evenly incorporated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to fill and frost the cake. The whipped cream keeps for 3 days in the refrigerator.

Highlights for Success

The cream must be cold when beaten.

Do not overwhip the cream because the whipped cream will stiffen more after the chocolate and nuts have been folded in.

If the grated chocolate is not cold when folded into the cake batter or whipped cream, it will turn the cake or whipped cream a light brown instead of maintaining its white color.

To grate chocolate, make sure that it is cold or it will melt rather than form fine particles. You can use a hand grater, Mouli, or food processor. If using a food processor, break the chocolate into small pieces before processing.

Compose the Cake

Using a long serrated knife, divide the cake into three even layers. Spread a little of the whipped cream on a 9-inch cardboard round or serving plate and set one layer on top. If using the plate, slide a few wide strips of wax paper or parchment under the cake to keep the rim of the plate clean. Spread the whipped cream about 3/8 inch thick between each layer and frost the top and sides with the remaining whipped cream. Sprinkle the top evenly with Les Perles, if using. To get them to stick to the sides, pelt them against the sides, and they will hold in place. Kids love helping with this! If using the paper strips, slowly slide them out from under the cake.

Variations
Chocolate Cherubs

To make chocolate baby cakes, which I call cherubs, use the 6 egg white formula: 9 tablespoons/4 ounces/112.5 grams superfine sugar; ¼ cup plus 1½ teaspoons/1.3 ounces/37.5 grams Wondra flour (or 6 tablespoons cake flour); pinch of salt; 6 egg whites: 6.3 ounces/180 grams; ¾ teaspoon cream of tartar; ¾ ounce/21 grams grated fine-quality unsweetened or 99% cacao chocolate; and 1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract. Proceed as for the chocolate angel food cake but divide the batter among four 4½ by almost 2-inch (1¾ cups) mini angel food tube pans or six 1¼-cup mini angel food tube pans. Bake for about 15 minutes and let cool for about 20 minutes.

Heavenly Vanilla Bean Angel Food Cake

This is the most angelically tender of all possible angel food cakes. Instead of the grated chocolate, split and scrape the seeds from 1 Tahitian vanilla bean or 2 Madagascar vanilla beans into half the sugar. Process until the seeds are evenly mixed into the sugar. Add the flour and salt and process to blend well. Add 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice when adding the cream of tartar. Proceed as for the chocolate angel food cake.

Chocolate Apricot Roll with Lacquer Glaze
Serves:
8 to 10
Baking Time:
7 to 8 minutes

I've always loved dried apricots dipped in dark chocolate, so I created this cake to emulate the same compelling flavor profile. My homemade version of
lekvar
(apricot filling), adapted from the beloved baking teacher John Clancy, uses dried apricots, the intensity of which is close to the original lekvar from Hungary. If you are making the sponge cake roll, or biscuit roulade (bees-KWEE roo-LAHD) and filling it a day ahead, there's no need for the apricot syrup, as the chocolate ganache filling moistens it perfectly. If you prefer, you can double the ganache and use it to frost the cake instead of glazing it with lacquer glaze. There are several steps to this elegant showstopper, but many of them can be completed ahead of time. The end result makes it well worth the effort.

Plan Ahead

Make the ganache filling several hours ahead. Pour the apricot glaze at least 2 hours ahead.

Biscuit Roulade

Volume

Ounce

Gram

cake flour (or bleached all-purpose flour)

1/3 cup (or ¼ cup plus 2 teaspoons), sifted into the cup and leveled off

1.2

33

cornstarch

2½ tablespoons

0.7

24

4 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup (6 fluid ounces)

7

200

about 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 tablespoon (0.5 fluid ounce)

0.6

18

superfine sugar

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon, divided

4

113

pure vanilla extract

¾ teaspoon

.

.

cream of tartar

¼ teaspoon

.

.

powdered sugar for dusting

.

.

.

Special Equipment

One 17¼ by 12¼ by 1-inch half-sheet pan, coated with shortening or nonstick cooking spray, bottom lined with a nonstick liner or parchment and then coated with baking spray with flour

Preheat the Oven

Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C.

Mix the Flour and Cornstarch

In a small bowl, whisk the flour and cornstarch to combine well.

Prepare the Eggs

Separate 2 of the eggs, placing the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater and the egg whites in another bowl. To the yolks, add the 2 remaining whole eggs, the additional yolk, and ½ cup of the sugar. Beat on high speed until thick, fluffy, and tripled in volume, about 5 minutes. Lower the speed to medium and beat in the vanilla. (If you have only one mixer bowl, scrape the mixture into another large bowl and wash and dry the mixer bowl and whisk beater very thoroughly.)

Make the Batter

Sift half the flour mixture over the egg mixture and, using a large balloon whisk, slotted skimmer, or silicone spatula, fold it in gently but rapidly until almost all the flour has disappeared. Repeat with the remaining flour mixture until all traces of flour have disappeared.

Make the Meringue

In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Beat in the remaining 1 tablespoon of the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Fold the meringue into the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface evenly with a small offset spatula.

Bake the Cake

Bake for 7 to 8 minutes, or until golden brown and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center.

Unmold and Cool the Cake

If necessary, loosen the sides of the cake with the tip of a sharp knife. Unmold the cake at once. Grasp the long edge of the liner and gently slide the cake from the pan onto a flat work surface. Dust the surface of the cake lightly with powdered sugar. While it is still hot, roll up the cake from the short end. Be sure to include the nonstick liner. (If using parchment, first flip the cake onto a clean dish towel and carefully remove the parchment. Then roll up the cake tightly, towel and all.)

Set the roll on a wire rack to cool until it is no longer warm to the touch, about 40 minutes.

Lekvar
Makes:
2¾ cups/22 fluid ounces/29.6 ounces/840 grams

Volume

Ounce

Gram

dried apricots (see
Note
)

2 2/3 cups

1

454

water

2 cups (16 fluid ounces)

16.7

473

sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons

8

225

lemon zest, finely grated

2 teaspoons, loosely packed

.

.

apricot or peach brandy

1 teaspoon

.

.

Make the Lekvar

In a medium saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, combine the dried apricots and water and allow them to sit for 2 hours to soften.

Bring the water to a boil, cover the pan tightly, and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes on the lowest possible heat until very soft when pierced with a skewer. If the water evaporates, add a little extra.

In a food processor, process the apricots and any remaining liquid, the sugar, lemon zest, and brandy until smooth.

Scrape the apricot mixture back into the saucepan and simmer, stirring constantly to prevent scorching, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until deep orange in color and very thick. A tablespoon of the mixture when lifted will take about 3 seconds to fall from the spoon.

Transfer the lekvar to a bowl and allow it to cool completely.

Note

Making the lekvar is optional. You will need only ½ cup/5.2 ounces/150 grams, but it's great to have on hand, and it keeps just about indefinitely in the refrigerator. You can also use a good-quality apricot filling or preserves. If using preserves, you will need to strain and concentrate them slightly. In a small heavy saucepan, bring the contents of one 12-ounce/340-gram jar to a boil. Remove from the heat and strain it into a 2-cup or larger microwavable glass measure. You will have almost 1 cup. Microwave on high for about 3 minutes, or until reduced to about ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons/7 fluid ounces. On cooling, it will settle down to about 13 tablespoons/6.5 fluid ounces.

Apricot Syrup
Makes:
1/3
cup/2.6 fluid ounces/3.5 ounces/100 grams

Volume

Ounce

Gram

sugar

2 tablespoons plus ¾ teaspoon

1

28

water

¼ cup (2 fluid ounces)

2

59

apricot or peach brandy

1 tablespoon

0.5

14

Make the Apricot Syrup

In a small saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, bring the sugar and water to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Cover immediately, remove the pan from the heat, and cool completely. Transfer the syrup to a glass measure and stir in the apricot brandy. If the syrup has evaporated slightly, add enough water to equal 1/3 cup. Cover it and set aside.

Apricot Ganache Filling
Makes:
1¼ cups/11.2 ounces/321 grams

Volume

Ounce

Gram

dark chocolate, 60% to 62% cacao, chopped

.

5

142

heavy cream

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 fluid ounces)

5

145

apricot or peach brandy or extra cream

1 tablespoon

0.5

14

pure vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon

.

.

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