Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
sweet orange marmalade | ½ cup | 5.5 | 157 |
heavy cream | 1 cup | 8 | 232 |
orange zest, finely grated | 1 tablespoon | . | . |
Make the True Orange Whipped Cream
In a small saucepan (or in a heatproof glass measure if using a microwave on high power), heat the marmalade until hot to soften it. With the back of a spoon press it through a strainer. You will need 1/3 cup/3.5 ounces/100 grams. Allow it to cool completely. In a mixing bowl, pour the cream and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the mixer's beaters alongside the bowl.)
Starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, whip the cream just until beater marks begin to show distinctly. Add the marmalade and zest and whip just until the mixture mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. The marmalade will act as a stabilizer, keeping the cream from watering out for at least 8 hours refrigerated.
Because lemon meringue pie is among my favorite pies, I've been dreaming about a cake like this for many years. Using biscuit de Savoie, which has no butter or oil, as the base, I have created a spectacular cake that is exceptionally light and dry. I can then moisten it with lots of lemon syrup until it is wondrously soft, moist, and tender. This also makes it possible to keep the sweetness level low enough to benefit from a high crown of meringue without it becoming too sweet.
If you would like to make your own lemon curd, and make only what is needed for this recipe, make two-thirds (three-yolk recipe). I like to make the whole recipe and have a little extra to enjoy on toast. However, if you'd prefer to purchase it, Tiptree (available in specialty food stores) produces a lemon curd that is of extraordinary quality; they use lemons from North Africa and make it in small batches. You will need a full ¾ cup/6.5 fluid ounces/7.8 ounces/222 grams for the cake.
Plan Ahead
Make the lemon curd at least 3 hours ahead.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
lemon zest, finely grated | 2 teaspoons, loosely packed | . | . |
about 5 large egg yolks | ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 fluid ounces) | 3.3 | 93 |
sugar | ¾ cup | 5.3 | 150 |
unsalted butter (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C) | 4 tablespoons (½ stick) | 2 | 57 |
lemon juice, freshly squeezed and strained | ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 fluid ounces) | 3.3 | 93 |
salt | pinch | . | . |
Make the Classic Lemon Curd
Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl containing the lemon zest.
In a heavy saucepan, whisk the yolks, sugar, and butter until well blended. Whisk in the lemon juice and salt. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula (be sure to scrape the sides of the pan), until thickened and resembling hollandaise sauce, which thickly coats the spatula but is still liquid enough to pour. The mixture will change from translucent to opaque and begin to have a yellow color on the spatula. Do not allow it to come to a boil or it will curdle. Whenever steam appears, briefly remove the pan from the heat, stirring constantly to keep the mixture from boiling. When the curd has thickened, pour it at once into the strainer and press it through with the spatula. Stir gently to mix in the zest sitting in the bowl. Allow the curd to cool for 30 minutes. Cover tightly and refrigerate until no longer warm, about 3 hours. (There will be about 1/3 cup/3 ounces/90 grams left over after filling the cake). The lemon curd keeps in an airtight jar or container for 3 weeks refrigerated. (Longer storage dulls the fresh citrus flavor.)
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
about 6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature: | ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (3.5 fluid ounces) | 4 | 112 |
superfine sugar | ¾ cup, divided | 5.3 | 150 |
lemon zest, finely grated | 2 teaspoons, loosely packed | . | . |
pure vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons | . | . |
warm water | 2 teaspoons | . | . |
Wondra flour (see | 1 cup (lightly spooned into the cup and leveled off) | 4.7 | 135 |
cream of tartar | ¾ teaspoon | . | . |
Special Equipment
Two 9 by 2-inch round cake pans, coated with baking spray with flour, then topped with parchment rounds
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C.
Mix the Yolk Mixture
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the yolks, ½ cup of the sugar, and the lemon zest on high speed for 5 minutes, or until very thick and fluffy and when the beater is raised, the mixture falls in ribbons. Lower the speed and beat in the vanilla and water. Raise the speed to high and beat for 30 seconds, or until the mixture thickens again. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. If you don't have a second mixer bowl, scrape the mixture into a large bowl and thoroughly wash, rinse, and dry the mixer bowl and whisk beater to remove any trace of oil.
Dust the flour (sift if using other flour) over the yolk mixture without mixing it in and set aside.
Beat the Egg Whites into a Stiff Meringue
In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining ¼ cup of sugar until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.
Make the Batter
Add one-third of the meringue to the yolk mixture and, with a large balloon whisk, slotted skimmer, or silicone spatula, fold it in together with the flour until all the flour is incorporated. Gently fold in the remaining meringue. Pour the batter into the prepared pans. Each will be almost half full (20 ounces/575 grams).
Bake the Cakes
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted in the centers comes out clean. To prevent the collapse of the delicate foam structure, while still hot, the biscuit must be unmolded as soon as it is baked. Have ready a small metal spatula and three wire racks that have been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray.
Unmold and Cool the Cakes
Run the small metal spatula between the sides of the pans and the cakes, pressing firmly against the pans, and unmold at once onto the prepared racks. Leave the parchment in place. Reinvert the cakes onto the racks. Cool completely. The firm upper crust prevents falling and results in a light texture. Wrap airtight with plastic wrap until ready to compose the cake.
Note
Wondra flour results in the most airy and tender cake. You can substitute a combination of ¾ cup/2.6 ounces/75 grams cake flour (or 2/3 cup/2.6 ounces/75 grams bleached all-purpose flour), sifted into the cup and leveled off, plus ½ cup/2 ounces/60 grams cornstarch, lightly spooned into the cup and leveled off. Sift the flour and cornstarch together before sifting over the egg mixture.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
sugar | ½ cup | 3.5 | 100 |
water | ¾ cup (6 fluid ounces) | 6.2 | 177 |
lemon juice, freshly squeezed | ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 fluid ounces) | 3.3 | 93 |
Make the Lemon Syrup
In a small saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, bring the sugar and water to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Cover immediately, remove the pan from the heat, and cool completely. Transfer the syrup to a glass measure and stir in the lemon juice. If the syrup has evaporated slightly, add enough water to equal 1¼ cups of syrup. Cover tightly with plastic wrap until ready to use.
Compose the Cake
Use a long serrated knife and your fingertips to remove the top crusts. Remove the parchment and scrape off any remaining bottom crust.
Brush the syrup evenly on the tops and bottoms of the biscuit layers. After syruping, a biscuit layer becomes fragile and more prone to splitting when moved. Use a cardboard round or removable tart pan bottom to support it.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
6 large egg whites, at room temperature | ¾ cup (6 fluid ounces) | 6.3 | 180 |
superfine sugar | 1 cup plus 5 tablespoons, divided | 9.2 | 262 |
water | 1/3 cup (2.6 fluid ounces) | 2.7 | 79 |
lemon juice, freshly squeezed | 3 tablespoons (1.5 fluid ounces), divided | 1.7 | 47 |
cream of tartar | ¾ teaspoon | . | . |
Make the Italian Meringue Topping