Rose's Heavenly Cakes (39 page)

Have ready a 2-cup or larger heatproof glass measure.

Pour the egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, if you have a second mixer bowl, or into a medium bowl and have ready a handheld mixer.

In a small heavy saucepan, preferably nonstick, stir together 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the water, and 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, until the sugar is moistened. Heat on medium, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is bubbling. Stop stirring and reduce the heat to low. (If using an electric range, remove the pan from the heat.)

Beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.

Increase the heat under the sugar syrup and continue to boil until an instant-read thermometer registers 248° to 250°F/120°C (the firm-ball stage). Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using a stand mixer, with the mixer off to keep it from spinning onto the sides of the bowl, add the syrup to the egg whites. Begin by pouring in a small amount of syrup. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Add the remaining syrup the same way in three parts. For the last addition, use a silicone scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure and scrape it against the beater. If the syrup has hardened before most of it has been poured, soften it to pouring consistency for a few seconds in the microwave.

If using a handheld mixer, beat the syrup into the egg whites in a steady stream. Don't allow the syrup to fall on the beaters or they will spin it onto the sides of the bowl.

Lower the speed to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of lemon juice. Continue beating for 2 minutes.

Preheat the Oven

Twenty minutes or more before browning the meringue, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 500°F/260°C.

Compose the Cake

Spread a little meringue on a 9-inch cardboard round or the removable bottom of a tart pan and place a cake layer on top. Sandwich the cake layers with the lemon curd. Frost the top and sides with the meringue, piling it high on top and creating swirls with a small metal spatula. Set the cake on top of a baking sheet and bake for 3 to 5 minutes, turning and watching to avoid burning, until the meringue is golden brown. Serve at room temperature or lightly chilled.

Plan Ahead

For best flavor and texture, complete the cake 1 day ahead.

Special Equipment

One 9 by 3-inch round cake pan, coated with baking spray with flour, then topped with a parchment round

Preheat the Oven

Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.

Prepare the Eggs

In the bowl of a stand mixer, using a long-handled wire whisk, lightly combine the eggs, sugar, vanilla, and salt. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and heat until quite warm to the touch, stirring constantly with the whisk. Immediately transfer the bowl to the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, and beat the mixture on high speed for 5 minutes, or until it is very thick, light in color, and quadrupled in volume. In a 5-quart mixer bowl, it will come to about three-quarters high.

Make the Batter

While the egg mixture is beating, sift the flour onto a piece of wax paper or parchment. When the beating is complete, sift half the flour onto the beaten eggs. With a large balloon whisk, slotted skimmer, or silicone spatula, fold it in gently but rapidly until almost all the flour has disappeared. Repeat with the remaining flour until the flour has disappeared completely. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan.

Bake the Cake

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes. The cake will rise to the top of the pan at the sides and dome slightly above the sides, developing a crack. When it is fully baked, the cake will lower a bit in the pan, come away slightly from the sides, and a wire cake tester inserted in the center will come out clean.

To prevent the collapse of its delicate foam structure, while still hot, the biscuit must be unmolded as soon as it is baked. Have ready a small metal spatula and two wire racks that have been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray.

Unmold and Cool the Cake

Run a small metal spatula between the sides of the pan and the cake, pressing firmly against the pan. Unmold at once onto a prepared rack, leaving the parchment in place. Reinvert the cake to cool completely. The firm upper crust prevents falling and results in a light texture.

Combine the Milks

In a heavy medium saucepan, boil the nonfat milk, whole milk, and sugar over medium heat until reduced by half (to 2½ cups). Pour the mixture into a medium bowl and stir in the condensed milk and heavy cream. Cover and refrigerate until ready to soak the cake.

Prepare the Cake for Soaking

Wash and dry the cake pan in order to use it as a container for soaking the cake.

With a long serrated knife, remove the upper crust but do not remove any of the cake beneath it—leave it slightly domed. Remove the parchment and a little of the lower crust by scraping it lightly with the serrated blade.

Crisscross two sheets of plastic wrap on the work surface and place the cake top side up in the center of the wrap. Pull the plastic wrap up and wrap the cake. Set it in the cake pan in which it was baked. Open the top of the plastic wrap to expose the cake and slowly pour the milk mixture over the cake. It will absorb completely into the cake. Rewrap the cake and refrigerate it for 8 hours or overnight.

Unmold the Cake

Open the top of the plastic wrap and gently invert the cake onto a flat surface such as the loose bottom of a tart pan. Reinvert it onto a serving plate with a lip or a 10-inch pie plate.

Make the Whipped Cream Topping

In a mixing bowl, combine the cream and sugar and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the mixer's beaters alongside the bowl.)

Whip the cream and sugar, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high, until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised.

Use a pastry bag fitted with a large open star pastry tube (3/8 to ½ inch) to pipe sideways shells or stars over the top of the cake. You may also swirl whipped cream with a spatula. Refrigerate the cake until ready to serve. As the cake sits, a little of the milk will exude around the bottom. The cake will keep for up to 3 days refrigerated.

Plan Ahead

Make the biscuit and layer it at least 1 day ahead. Poach the apples at least 1 day or up to 3 days ahead. Compose the charlotte at least 8 hours before serving.