Modernist Cooking Made Easy (28 page)

M
ETHYLCELLULOSE
A
T A
G
LANCE

Common Names

Methylcellulose, Methocel, Texturas Metil

Basic Ratios By Weight

Methocel F50

1.0-2.0% foams with 0.1-0.3% xanthan gum

Methocel A4C

0.25-3.0% gels

Dispersion Temperature

Methocel F50: Hot or cold

Methocel A4C: Hot

Hydration Temperature

Below about 15ºC / 59ºF depending on the type

Setting Temperature

Methocel F50: above 62-68ºC / 143-154°F

Methocel A4C: above 50-55ºC / 122-131°F

Melting Temperature

Methocel F50: below about 30ºC / 86ºF

Methocel A4C: below about 25ºC / 77ºF

Methylcellulose is one of the most interesting modernist ingredients. It has the unusual property of gelling when it is heated and melting as it cools. One of the most dramatic uses of this is “instant noodles” when the diner has a squeeze bottle full of liquid that when squeezed into a soup instantly turns into noodles. It has also been used to make “hot ice cream” that melts as it cools.

In addition, it is often employed as a binder in coatings, such as fried chicken batter, because it will solidify as soon as it hits the oil, creating a barrier that keeps the oil out and the juices in. Methylcellulose can also be used to stabilize foams and emulsions.

Methylcellulose is made from cellulose pulp, which is taken from plants’ cell walls. There are about 20 kinds of methylcellulose and while similar, they all have different properties. Because of this, we will only cover two here.

Methocel F50 is commonly used to stabilize foams. Methocel A4C gels at a lower temperature and is good in batters and coatings. Both of these were recommended by Ideas in Food and I’ve found them to be more than enough to keep me busy exploring this style of cooking.

D
ISPERSION AND
H
YDRATION

Methylcellulose is typically dispersed in hot liquids, above the setting temperature of the type you are using. Some, like Methocel F50, can also be dispersed in cold water if using a blender.

Once the methylcellulose has been dispersed, you need to cool the liquid in order for it to hydrate. The hydration temperature varies for the different types but a good rule of thumb is below 15ºC / 59ºF. Most types need to stay at this temperature for about an hour. I typically let the liquid cool on the counter or in an ice bath and then refrigerate it for several hours to be on the safe side.

Smelly Liquid

Some forms of methylcellulose react poorly to sugar and result in a bad smell, similar to a wet dog or corked wine. Ideas in Food, with credit to Harold McGee, have come up with a solution. If this occurs you can line the container you are hydrating the methylcellulose in with plastic wrap, which will absorb the odor from the mixture so the resulting foam or gel will not smell.

M
ETHYLCELLULOSE
F
OAMS

Methocel F50 is known as being a great stabilizer of foams so I will focus on it in this section. It can be used both for fresh, raw foams as well as foams that are cooked or dehydrated. Xanthan gum is also often added to help the foam hold its shape.

Methocel F50 Foaming Process

Regardless of what type of foam you are going to make, the beginning of the process is the same. Methocel F50 can be hydrated in cold liquids in a standing blender. Add the liquid you want to foam to the blender and blend it at a speed where a vortex forms. Sprinkle the Methocel F50 into the vortex, along with any other ingredients like xanthan gum. Continue blending for another minute or two.

Place the mixture in the refrigerator for several hours. The Methocel F50 will not begin to hydrate until it gets below about 15ºC / 59ºF . The hydration is also a slow process which is why the extended cooling time is suggested.

Once the Methocel F50 has hydrated add the mixture to a stand mixer with a whisk attachment. Whisk the mixture until peaks are formed. You can whip to either soft or stiff peaks, depending on the presentation and texture you want. The foam is now ready to be used.

For a more refined presentation you can scoop the foam into a pastry bag, or a ziploc bag with a corner cut off, and pipe it into bite-sized mounds or long trails of foam.

To make meringues, you can place the foam in a dehydrator and dehydrate it for 3 to 5 hours, until it is nice and crisp. An oven set to low with the door slightly ajar also works well for dehydrating them.

Methocel F50 Foaming Ratios

In general, a ratio of 1.0% to 2.0% Methocel F50 is combined with a ratio of 0.1% to 0.3% xanthan gum. The higher the amount of Methocel F50 and xanthan gum the denser the foam will be.

Both the
Ideas in Food
and
Modernist Cuisine
books suggest using 1.0% Methocel F50 and 0.15% xanthan gum for a standard foam and that is my go-to ratio as well.

C
HERRY
F
OAM

This is a standard foam recipe using Methocel F50 and xanthan gum. You can vary the liquid to be whatever you need for your dish. The cherry foam is awesome with a seared duck breast and pecans, or even on chocolate cake or cherry pie.

Tools Needed

Methocel F50

Xanthan gum

Standing blender

Standing mixer with whisk attachment

Pastry bag or ziploc bag, optional

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

200 grams cherry juice

Sugar or honey, optional

2 grams Methocel F50, 1.0%

0.3 grams xanthan gum, 0.15%

Taste the cherry juice and if it needs sweetening add some sugar or honey to balance the flavors.

Place the cherry juice in a standing blender and turn it on to a speed where a vortex forms. Sprinkle the Methocel F50 and xanthan gum into the vortex and continue to blend for 30 to 60 seconds to ensure even dispersion. Place the cherry juice in the refrigerator for several hours to hydrate.

Once fully hydrated, remove the cherry juice mixture from the refrigerator and whip it with the standing mixer until peaks form, about 5 to 10 minutes. Once the peaks have formed the foam is ready to be served.

You can serve the foam by spooning it directly onto the dish. For a more refined presentation you can spoon it into a pastry bag or a ziploc bag with the corner cut off and pipe out small mounds or a long line of foam.

O
RANGE-
P
INEAPPLE
M
ERINGUES

These meringues are easy to make and are a great snack. They are also a wonderful garnish for fish or salads. You can make them with almost any type of fruit juice or other flavored liquid.

Tools Needed

Methocel F50

Xanthan gum

Standing blender

Standing mixer with whisk attachment

Dehydrator or oven

Pastry bag or ziploc bag

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

100 grams orange juice, pulp free

100 grams pineapple juice, pulp free

Sugar or honey, optional

2 grams Methocel F50, 1.0%

0.3 grams xanthan gum, 0.15%

Combine the juices in a standing blender. Taste the juices and if they need sweetening add some sugar or honey to balance the flavors.

Turn the blender on to a speed where a vortex forms. Sprinkle the Methocel F50 and xanthan gum into the vortex and continue to blend for 30 to 60 seconds to ensure even dispersion. Place the juice in the refrigerator for several hours to hydrate.

Once fully hydrated, remove the juice from the refrigerator and whip it with the standing mixer until peaks form, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Spoon the foam into a pastry bag or a ziploc bag with the corner cut off.

Using a Dehydrator

Line a dehydrator tray with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Pipe small mounds onto the tray. Dehydrate for 3 to 5 hours, until it turns crispy and is fully dehydrated.

Using an Oven

Line a sheet pan or cookie sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Pipe small mounds onto the tray. Set the oven to low, place the meringues into it, and leave the door slightly ajar. Let the meringues dehydrate for 2 to 6 hours, until they turn crispy and are fully dehydrated.

M
ETHYLCELLULOSE
G
ELS

Most types of methylcellulose can create gels. The gels are thermo-reversible, meaning they can be set and unset multiple times. As discussed above, in contrast to most gels, the methylcellulose gel will set as it heats and then unset when it cools off.

For this section we will focus on creating gels with Methocel A4C because it has a lower setting and melting temperature then many other types, making it easier to work with for some preparations.

Methocel A4C Gelling Process

Methocel A4C has to be dispersed in a hot liquid so the first step is to bring the liquid you want to gel to a boil. Then whisk or blend in the Methocel A4C. You can also disperse the Methocel A4C in water first and blend that into another liquid if you don’t want to heat it.

When the Methocel A4C is dispersed evenly you need to cool the liquid and then refrigerate it for the hydration to begin. It won’t start to hydrate until the temperature is below about 15ºC / 59ºF and it usually takes at least 30 to 60 minutes to hydrate.

Once the liquid has hydrated it can be gelled by raising the temperature above 50ºC to 55ºC / 122ºF to 131°F. This can be done in a variety of ways, from deep frying to baking, or piping it directly into hot liquids.

Methocel A4C Gelling Ratios

When creating gels with Methocel A4C you typically will use a 0.25% to 3.0% ratio, depending on how firm of a gel you desire.

I
NSTANT
M
USHROOM
N
OODLES

These instant noodles make for an awesome presentation. They are created in the bowl of soup in front of the diner, or the diner can even make the noodles themselves. They are based off of Wylie Dufresne’s instant tofu noodles.

They go very well with any clear broth soups. I especially like them as the noodles in chicken noodle soup but they also work great with miso or steak soups as well. You could even use them in a minestrone.

Tools Needed

Methocel A4C

Oven

Standing blender

Immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

225 grams baby bella mushrooms, cleaned

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

100 grams water

6.5 grams Methocel A4C, 2%

4-6 sage leaves

Hot chicken soup, for serving

Preheat the oven to 204ºC / 400ºF.

Place the mushrooms on a sheet pan with raised edges. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 15 to 30 minutes, until they begin to brown and have released most of their juices. Remove from the oven.