Modernist Cooking Made Easy (27 page)

I like the sweet maple syrup with the tangy balsamic vinegar. This goes well on salads, especially ones with berries. You can also add a little more xanthan and use the vinaigrette as a sauce on fish or chicken.

Makes ½ cup

Tools Needed

Lecithin

Xanthan gum

Immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

45 grams balsamic vinegar

15 grams lemon juice

20 grams maple syrup

90 grams olive oil

Salt and pepper

1.0 grams lecithin powder, 0.6%

0.3 grams xanthan gum, 0.2%

Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, maple syrup, salt, and pepper in a narrow bowl or mixing container that works well with your immersion blender. Blend in the olive oil with an immersion blender or whisk attachment.

Taste the vinaigrette for seasoning and adjust the olive oil and vinegar to control the acidity.

Once the vinaigrette tastes balanced to you add the xanthan gum and lecithin then blend well to combine. Taste the vinaigrette and make sure the mouthfeel and thickness is what you prefer. Add more xanthan gum or liquid to adjust the thickness.

It is now ready to be served.

C
HICKEN
C
URRY
S
ALAD

The spiciness of curry paste can really vary depending on the brand. I call for 3 teaspoons but feel free to use more or less so it matches the spice level you like. You can easily add more before blending in the xanthan gum and lecithin.

Tools Needed

Xanthan gum

Lecithin

Immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

For the Dressing

16 grams red curry paste, about 1 tablespoon

110 grams olive oil, about ½ cup

30 grams lemon juice, about 2 tablespoons

Salt and pepper

0.9 grams lecithin powder, 0.6%

0.3 grams xanthan gum, 0.2%

⅓ cup fruit chutney

For the Salad

1 celery stalk, diced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

2 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped

2 tablespoons scallions, thinly sliced

⅛ cup fresh parsley, minced

⅛ cup fresh basil, minced

2 cups seedless grapes, halved

1 apple, preferably crisp and good for eating, peeled and diced

4 chicken breasts, seared and chopped

½ cup pecans, toasted

First make the dressing. Combine the curry paste, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a narrow bowl or mixing container that works well with your immersion blender. Blend well with an immersion blender.

Taste the dressing for seasoning and adjust the olive oil and lemon juice to control the acidity and the red curry paste to adjust the heat level.

Once the dressing tastes balanced, add the xanthan gum and lecithin then blend well to combine. Stir in the fruit chutney.

Mix all of the salad ingredients except for the pecans in a bowl and toss well with the dressing.

Sprinkle the pecans on top and serve.

M
ALTODEXTRIN

M
ALTODEXTRIN
A
T A
G
LANCE

Common Names

N-Zorbit M, Tapioca Maltodextrin, Malto, Maltosec

Basic Ratios By Weight

30-45% pastes

45-60% powders

Dispersion Temperature

Room temperature, the fat should be liquid

Maltodextrin has gained culinary fame by its ability to turn oils and fats into powders. It is also often used as a thickener and stabilizer of high-fat ingredients, as well as a way to help disperse other ingredients like transglutaminase that can clump on their own.

Maltodextrin is a sweet polysaccharide that is produced from starch, corn, wheat, tapioca or potato through partial hydrolysis and spray drying. A very common type for cooking is tapioca maltodextrin. It is a very, very light powder that can absorb water as well as oil.

It is often used as an additive because it has fewer calories than sugar and is easily absorbed and digested by the body in the form of glucose. It also helps lock in aromas, making dishes more fragrant.

It can also be used to dust over sticky surfaces such as marshmallows to keep them from sticking together without altering their flavors.

There are many varieties that maltodextrin comes in but I prefer to use the N-Zorbit M brand.

M
ALTODEXTRIN
F
AT
P
OWDERS

There are a few things to keep in mind when making fat powders and pastes from maltodextrin but in general it is a simple and forgiving process.

Maltodextrin Ratios

Maltodextrin is a pretty forgiving ingredient when you make powders and pastes and you can easily add more until you have the texture you desire. The amount used will also depend on the fat you are trying to thicken.

In general, you will use a 30% to 45% weight ratio for pastes and 45% to 60% for powders. It is best to start with a smaller amount of maltodextrin and add more until you have reached the texture you desire. It is helpful to reserve some of the fat in case you add too much maltodextrin.

Maltodextrin Powdering Process

Creating powders and pastes from fats is easy using maltodextrin. You combine the liquid fat with the maltodextrin and mix well, adding more fat or maltodextrin until it is the texture you desire. Using a whisk or fork for the mixing will usually be good enough.

For finer powders you can push the resulting paste through a tamis or fine-meshed sieve. The resulting powders and pastes can also be formed into shapes and baked.

Most powders will last about a day at room temperature or several days in the refrigerator.

Sources of Fat

There are many places to get fat from. Some of the most common are off the shelf oils such as olive oil, peanut oil, or other flavored oils. You can also render the fat from bacon, chicken, pork, duck, or other foods and turn that into a powder that will carry many of the same flavors.

Creating Flavored Oils

To create unlimited powders and pastes remember that you can infuse oils with many different flavors before turning them into a powder. You can cook garlic and red pepper flakes over low heat in olive oil for a spicy, roasted garlic olive oil. You can infuses oil with vanilla for a sweet powder.

A common technique for infusing oils with more mild ingredients, such as carrots or bell peppers, is to heat the ingredient in oil until it is soft and the oil is perfumed with the scent. Transfer the oil to a blender and blend until smooth. Run the oil through a chinois or cheesecloth to strain it. You can then turn the flavored oil into a paste or powder, or even just use it as is.

The options are truly unlimited.

S
ESAME
O
IL
P
OWDER

This sesame powder comes together really quickly and is a great visual addition to many dishes. It also adds an interesting textural element to more traditional plates. It can be used with any dish that a drizzle of sesame oil would go well with, including many Asian foods.

Tools Needed

Tapioca maltodextrin

Whisk or fork

Bowl

Sesame oil

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

100 grams sesame oil

3 grams salt

20 - 50 grams
tapioca maltodextrin
, the actual amount will depend on the quality and type of sesame oil you use, 20%-50%

Pour the sesame oil into a bowl large enough to comfortably hold it. Whisk in the salt.

To turn the sesame oil into powder begin to whisk in the tapioca maltodextrin. Once it begins to thicken and clump you can add it in more slowly and you may have to start using a fork to incorporate the maltodextrin as whisks will often fill with the paste. Continue to add tapioca maltodextrin while mixing until it forms the texture you want.

When you are ready to serve the sesame powder simply spoon or sprinkle it over the dish.

The powder will last for several hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator for several days.

R
OASTED
G
ARLIC
O
LIVE
O
IL
P
ASTE

This roasted garlic olive oil paste has many uses. I love to serve it as a spread for freshly baked Italian bread since it delivers a texture and flavor that isn’t expected. It can also be used as a topping for fish or even meats.

I call for the garlic cloves to be thinly sliced, this allows you to use them as a flavorful, crunchy garnish but if you do not want them as a garnish you can save time by coarsely chopping them.

You can change up the flavors as you see fit. Adding some sage or rosemary to the oil would add even more flavor to it or you could go in a Mexican direction by toasting dried chile peppers in the oil instead of the garlic.

Tools Needed

Tapioca maltodextrin

Whisk or fork

Sesame oil

A scale with small gram measurements

Chinois or cheesecloth

Ingredients

100 grams olive oil

3 grams salt

10 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

20 - 50 grams
tapioca maltodextrin
, the actual amount will depend on the quality and type of olive oil you use, 20%-50%

Combine the olive oil, salt, garlic, and red pepper flakes in a pan over low to medium-low heat. Let cook until the garlic has browned nicely and the oil smells and tastes like garlic and pepper.

Remove the garlic and reserve for a garnish. Strain the infused olive oil through a chinois or cheesecloth into a bowl large enough to comfortably hold it.

To turn the olive oil into a paste begin to whisk in the tapioca maltodextrin. Once it begins to thicken and clump you can add it in more slowly and you may have to start using a fork to incorporate the maltodextrin as whisks will often fill with the paste. Continue to add tapioca maltodextrin while mixing until it forms the texture you desire.

When you are ready to serve the roasted garlic olive oil paste simply spread it using a knife.

The paste will remain in good condition for several hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator for several days.

M
ETHYLCELLULOSE