Appetite for Reduction (23 page)

SERVES 4 . ACTIVE TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES

I
n my old neighborhood in Brooklyn, the streets were lined with spicy, sexy, West Indian curries. I really miss the tropical flavors, but don’t miss the feeling of eating a small army’s ration of coconut milk. And those deep-fried plantains were killer, but they probably
will
kill you someday. In this revamped dish, just a touch of coconut milk really does the job, and steaming the plantains coaxes out their sweet flavor and succulent texture even better than frying does.

Jamaican curries were influenced by Indian curries, but with their own spin on the spice blend. The biggest difference is that Jamaican curry powder calls for star anise. Because preblended Jamaican curry powder can be hard to find, I rigged up this cheater blend simply by adding star anise to a regular old curry powder. Serve with brown basmati rice or
Mashed Yuca with Cilantro & Lime
(page 57) and
Jerk Asparagus
(page 91).

1 teaspoon olive oil
¼ cup finely chopped shallot
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced finely
½ to 1 habanero pepper, seeded and minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
2 bay leaves
1 star anise
2 teaspoons mild curry powder
Pinch of ground cinnamon
About 3 sprigs of fresh thyme
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup light coconut milk
¾ cup water
1 (16-ounce) can black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon light agave nectar
Juice from about ½ lime
2 very ripe plantains, split lengthwise and cut into 1-inch
chunks
Cooked rice or other grain, for serving

Bring your steamer apparatus to a boil and preheat a small, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Sauté the shallot, red pepper, and habanero in the oil for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic, ginger, bay leaves, and star anise, and saute for about 2 minutes more. Add a splash of water and the curry powder, cinnamon, and thyme. Stir for about 30 seconds, just to toast the curry powder a bit.

Add the salt, coconut milk, water, and beans. Cover and heat through for about 5 minutes. Add the agave and lime. Taste for salt and seasoning. Turn off the heat and let the curry sit for 10 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Remove the thyme, anise, and bay leaves.

In the meantime, steam the plantains for about 5 minutes. They should appear plump and bright yellow.

To assemble: Serve the beans over rice (or any grain) in wide, rimmed bowls. Top with the plantains.

MAKES 8 TACOS • ACTIVE TIME: 20 MINUTES • TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES

H
ave you got some zucchini burning a hole in your pocket? These tacos should do the trick. Tacos somehow
sound
unhealthy, but they aren’t. Corn tortillas are low in fat and have some fiber, too. The key, I think, is to make the filling somewhat saucy and packed with flavor, so that a bunch of guac and cheese is not needed.

Olives are often overlooked in Latin foods, but they work so well, adding bursts of succulent, salty flavor. Here I use canned tomatillos (salsa verde) to make for a superfast weeknight meal and chopped kalamata olives for a burst of salty flavor. You can serve with the Garlic-Lemon Yogurt, but it’s not wholly necessary; I eat these all by their lonesome all the time. If you’ve got some fresh greens to add, you can go ahead and do that, too.

1 teaspoon olive oil
2 zucchini, diced small (about 1 pound)
2 jalapeños, seeded, sliced thinly
¼ teaspoon salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
⅓ cup pitted kalamata olives, chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 (6-ounce) can salsa verde
1 (16-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed
½ cup finely chopped scallions
8 (6-inch) corn tortillas

Preheat a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the zucchini and jalapeño to the oil and sprinkle with the salt (salt will help draw the moisture out of the zukes). Sauté for about 7 minutes, until the zucchini is lightly browned. Add the garlic, olives, cumin, and coriander, and sauté for 2 minutes more.

Add the salsa verde and black beans. Cook for 5 more minutes; the salsa should reduce a bit so that it’s juicy but not soupy.

Place the tortillas in a moist paper towel and heat in the microwave for 1 minute on high. Serve with Garlic-Lemon Yogurt and chopped scallions.

1 cup unsweetened plain yogurt (Wildwood is great)
2 to 3 cloves garlic
Zest from ½ lemon
Juice from 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)
½ teaspoon light agave nectar

Scoop the yogurt into a small bowl. Use a Microplane to grate in the garlic and then the lemon zest. Squeeze in the lemon juice and add the agave. Use a fork to mix well. Taste and adjust the garlic and lemon to your liking.

SERVES 6 • ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES • TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR

P
lain old BBQ beans are nice and everything, but mango gives them another dimension—a tart, tropical sweetness that makes them a bit more special. Barbecue flavors really benefit from a nice, long cooking time. Let these simmer on the stove for at least 45 minutes so that the beans absorb more of the flavor and the mango cooks down and melds with the tomato sauce. Serve with greens and rice, with a piece of
Fresh Corn & Scallion Corn Bread
(page 244), or over
Mashed Yuca with Cilantro & Lime
(page 57).

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped finely
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 mango, seeded and chopped small
1 cup tomato sauce
1 cup vegetable broth
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or ¼ teaspoon if you want it
less spicy
¼ teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon salt
1 (25-ounce) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon liquid smoke
2 to 3 tablespoons agave nectar

Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic in the oil with a pinch of salt for about 5 minutes, until translucent.

Add the mango, tomato sauce, broth, red pepper flakes, coriander, salt, and kidney beans. Turn up the heat and bring to a rolling boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cover the pot, leaving a little room for steam to escape, and let cook for about 245 minutes, stirring often. The sauce should thicken and the mangoes should cook down a great deal.

Turn off the heat, mix in the agave and liquid smoke, and let the beans sit for about 5 minutes. Taste for sweetness and add more agave if needed. Adjust the salt and seasonings, and serve.

SERVES 6 • ACTIVE TIME: 20 MINUTES • TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES

B
lack beans in a rich, smoky
mole rojo
. All the layers of flavor you expect from mole are here: chocolate, chili, tomato, and a bit of sweetness from raisins and anise. Tortilla chips bring lots of body and flavor, and a touch of cinnamon brings warmth that just begs to top off roasted pumpkin, or try it with the
Ginger Mashed Sweet Potatoes & Apples
(page 63). I just think a hint of sweetness sets things off nicely, so even if you’re serving over brown rice, add some steamed plantains. I’m listing the sauce separately because it’s great for pouring over roasted veggies or Latin-inspired bowls. Use whatever almond or peanut butter you have on hand for this.