Appetite for Reduction (39 page)

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hy is this soup Peruvian? Maybe because purple potatoes are native to Peru, or maybe because I love alliteration. When I spot purple potatoes at the farmers’ market, I can’t stop myself from lugging home a ton of them. Slice them open and they’re such a gorgeous hue, the kind of purple you want to paint your room on a Saturday evening when you’re fifteen and have no Cure concert to go to. But these days you don’t have to go to the farmers’ market to procure some of these beauties; many well-stocked supermarkets sell purple potatoes, or at least blue potatoes, which would be great in this soup, too. After boiling the potatoes the color does fade just a tad, so I cheat and grate in some beet at the end. Unless you’re a food photographer or entering the soup into a purple food competition, that probably isn’t exactly necessary.

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped finely
2 jalapeños, seeded and sliced
2 bay leaves
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups vegetable broth
2 pounds purple potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch chunks
½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
¼ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, or to taste
A little grated beet, for color (optional)

Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Sauté the onions, jalapeños, and bay leaves for about 7 minutes, until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté for 3 minutes more.

Add the potatoes, water, and salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower the heat a bit to a slow simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 18 minutes.

Use an immersion blender to puree half the soup, or transfer half of the soup to a blender or food processor and puree. Be sure to let the steam escape between pulses so that it doesn’t build up and explode all over you. If using a blender, return the pureed soup to the pot and mix.

Add the cilantro and lime, and taste for salt. Grate in a little bit of beet, using a Microplane grater if you’ve got one. Use about a tablespoon. Let the soup sit for at least 5 minutes for the flavors to blend. Serve!

SERVES 6 • ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES • TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR

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hat kind of soup chapter would this be if there were no split pea recipe? I’d be the laughingstock (no pun intended) of the soup community. This is what you wanna slurp on any day of the week, for any and every occasion. This version is made smoky and sultry with a dose of smoked paprika.

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 medium-size onion, diced small
4 cloves garlic, minced
Several pinches of freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1½ cups diced carrots
1¼ cups split peas
6 cups vegetable broth
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste

Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions in the oil until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic, pepper, and salt, and sauté for another minute. Add the paprika and thyme, and stir continuously for about 15 seconds to toast the spices a bit.

Add the carrots, split peas, and broth. Cover the pot and bring to a boil, keeping a close eye on it. Once it’s boiling, lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 40 minutes, until the lentils are creamy. Stir occasionally to prevent the soup from burning at the bottom. If necessary, thin the soup with water. Add the lemon juice and taste for salt and seasonings.

Let the soup sit for 10 minutes or so for maximum flavor and serve.

CHAPTER 8

Comfort Curries, Chili, & Stews

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HIS CHAPTER IS ALL ABOUT THE COMFORT: SAUCY, SAVORY, and filling one-pot meals that come together in a snap. Aromatic curries, spicy chili, and hearty stews, these are weeknight meals that hit the spot. These dishes are also a great opportunity to flex your spice rack muscles. Build your spice arsenal as you build your repertoire, recipe by recipe. Take advantage of the bulk bins at your health food store or Indian market; this way the spices are not only cheaper, but you can buy smaller quantities. You’ll never have to let spices expire or collect dust because you’ll be buying in manageable quantities that you know you’ll use.

It’s also a great time to experiment with new ingredients. I utilize every bean under the sun, leave no grain unturned and no veggie left behind, to bring satisfying meals with variety to your stovetop.

Many of these recipes come together in 30 minutes, and the ones that take longer don’t require more work, just a bit more time. But don’t let longer cooking times deter you; it just means you’ve got more downtime to plan the week’s menu or study for the bar or play Rock Band. You know, whatever you feel like doing.

Most of the recipes call for a four-quart pot. A heavy-bottomed, stainless-steel pot with a secure lid and a long handle is my weapon of choice. Definitely invest in something sturdy. That beat-up piece of aluminum from the dollar store just won’t cut it.

Above all, have fun with this chapter. Try the recipes out as written if you’re new at this, but don’t be afraid to experiment with what’s in season and what you have on hand. That’s what comfort’s all about: knowing things will be okay, no matter what.

SERVES 4 • ACTIVE TIME: 20 MINUTES • TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES

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ne of my favorite restaurants in NYC is Madras, located downtown on Second Avenue. Rumor has it that they are closing, and maybe by the time you read this they will be gone. It’s too bad because they serve the best vegan southern Indian food I’ve ever had, and this vegetable korma is a tribute. Vegetable korma is generally a rich and creamy curry with braised vegetables. Their version has a lot of coconut milk; mine has a bit of light coconut milk, but it’s still rich and yummy and it takes only 30 minutes. So if you can get to Sixth Street and Second Avenue in 30 minutes, then godspeed. If not, then try this dish over some brown basmati rice. It would also be delicious over mashed sweet potato or the
Cranberry-Cashew Biryani
(page 67).

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 small red onion, quartered and sliced thinly
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups vegetable broth
1½ pounds cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets
1 pound zucchini, cut on a bias in ¼-inch slices
½ pound carrots, peeled and cut on a bias in ¼-inch slices
¾ cup frozen peas
¾ cup light coconut milk
1 teaspoon agave nectar
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
Extra chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Sauté the onion in the oil for about 5 minutes, until translucent. Use a little nonstick cooking spray if needed. Add the garlic and ginger, and saute for another minute.

Add the broth to deglaze the pan. Mix in the spices and salt. Add the cauliflower, zucchini, and carrots. They won’t be competely submerged, but that’s okay. Cover the pot and turn up the heat to bring the broth to a boil. Let boil for 7 to 10 minutes, until the veggies are tender.

Add the peas, coconut milk, agave, and cilantro (if using). Taste for salt. Turn off the heat and let the flavors meld for about 5 minutes. Serve the korma in bowls over rice, garnished with cilantro.

SERVES 6 • ACTIVE TIME: 30 MINUTES • TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES

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hen my best friend and I first went vegetarian in the ’80s, we spent a bunch of time living on cheeseless pizza and broccoli from a Chinese takeout place. My best friend’s dad was Pakistani, and when he heard what we were eating, he insisted we visit one of the Pakistani restaurants on Coney Island Avenue in Brooklyn. And my love of Chana Saag, whose name means “chickpeas and greens,” was born. I’ve been making this recipe in some form or other for about twenty years, and I still can’t get enough of it. Leafy greens are cooked down until tender and velvety, punctuated by chickpeas and underlined with spice. Serve with brown basmati rice, or with any of the Indian-style sides.

2 teaspoons olive oil
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
1 small onion, diced small
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional, if you like it spicy)
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon salt
1 (12-ounce can) crushed tomatoes
2 pounds kale, coarse stems removed, chopped finely
1 (28-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

Preheat a 4-quart pot over medium heat. Pour 1 teaspoon of the oil into the pot and use a spatula to coat the bottom. Add the mustard seeds. Cover the pot and let the seeds pop for about a minute, or until the popping slows down, mixing once. If the seeds don’t pop, turn up the heat a bit until they do. Add the other teaspoon of oil and sauté the onion for
4 to 7 minutes, until translucent. Use a little nonstick cooking spray if needed. Add the garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes, and saute for another minute. Add the tomatoes and mix to deglaze the pot. Let cook for about 3 minutes, then add the curry, cumin, coriander, garam masala, and salt, and mix well.