The Cheese Board (29 page)
Authors: Cheese Board Collective Staff
CHAPTER FOUR
RYE BREADS
DENSE, CHEWY, AND FLAVORFUL,
rye breads are an essential part of eastern European fare. Customers come into the Cheese Board searching for the bread of their homeland, and while we have yet to make a Russian rye, we have journeyed as far east as Poland with our recipes.
When making rye bread, we prefer to use a medium or dark rye flour—both of which have some of the whole grain ground into the flour—and sometimes add pumpernickel flour or cracked rye for texture and flavor. A well-stocked natural foods store will carry a range of rye flours, or they can be mail-ordered (see
Source List
). We use both yeast and sourdough starter as leavening agents for all of our rye breads except the dark rye, which gives them a tangy flavor. Our rye recipes include wheat flour to augment the low gluten content of rye flour.
Rye breads present more of a challenge to the baker than do yeasted wheat breads. Because of the nature of rye flour, it is important not to overmix rye bread dough because it will become progressively stickier the longer you mix it. It is therefore crucial to add the correct amount of liquid initially and observe the stated times in the recipes, mixing the dough just enough for it to acquire a modest sheen and pull away from the sides of the bowl.
The
shaping of rye loaves is less forgiving than that of other breads. Unlike most of the bread doughs in this book, rye doughs are shaped directly into their final form without the intermediate step of forming them into loose rounds. The final shape and surface of the loaf will remain almost identical to the one you initially formed, so as you knead and form the loaves, try to shape a loaf with a smooth surface and well-sealed seams. Repetition and practice are the key to success with rye breads, and a great loaf of rye is well worth the effort.
Dark Rye
In 1968, a dense European rye loaf was given to the store by a young hippie couple with a baby. It was the perfect accompaniment to the cheese selection, and the clerks all loved it, so the couple was invited to bake this bread for sale in the shop. Thus, dark rye bread became the first bread to be sold at the store. These days we make it in-house. It is a dense, dark loaf with a graceful oval shape.
MAKES 2 LOAVES
Preparation time including rising and baking: 4¼ hours; active time: 45 minutes
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
2½ cups whole-wheat flour
¾ cup medium or dark rye flour
2½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ tablespoons caraway seeds (optional)
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm water
1 tablespoon blackstrap or dark unsulfured molasses
In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the warm water until dissolved. Let stand for 5 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, combine the flours, salt, and caraway seeds.
If using a stand mixer,
add the yeast mixture, lukewarm water, and molasses to the bowl. Mix on low speed with the dough hook for 5 minutes, or until the ingredients are combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to lose its rough texture. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
add the yeast mixture, lukewarm water, and molasses to the bowl. Mix on low speed with the dough hook for 5 minutes, or until the ingredients are combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to lose its rough texture. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
If making by hand,
add the yeast mixture, lukewarm water, and molasses to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
add the yeast mixture, lukewarm water, and molasses to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
Form the dough into a ball and place it in a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1¾ hours, or until doubled in size.
Lightly flour a baking sheet. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 2 pieces. Shape each piece into an
oval
and place on the prepared pan. Using a spray bottle, mist the loaves with water and sprinkle them with flour. Spread the flour smoothly over the tops. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 1 to 1½ hours, or until a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
oval
and place on the prepared pan. Using a spray bottle, mist the loaves with water and sprinkle them with flour. Spread the flour smoothly over the tops. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 1 to 1½ hours, or until a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
Fifteen minutes before the bread has finished rising, remove all but the middle rack from the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Slash
the top of each loaf and wait at least 10 minutes for the slashes to begin to open.
Slash
the top of each loaf and wait at least 10 minutes for the slashes to begin to open.
Place the loaves in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Turn the baking sheet front to back to ensure even baking. Bake 20 to 25 minutes longer, for a total baking time of 40 to 45 minutes, or until the bread is deep brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Transfer the loaves to a wire rack to cool.
I don’t think that individuality is especially encouraged here, but that doesn’t stop members from being themselves.
—DAN
I think the biggest difference between the Cheese Board and other workplaces is that because there’s no boss at the Cheese Board, everyone feels free to act as eccentric as they normally would in real life.
—ERIC WONG, FORMER MEMBER
Light Rye
This bread was developed to reproduce childhood memories of eating deli sandwiches in New York City. It is moist, with a chewy crust, and it is easy to replicate at home. This is the dough we mix with pumpernickel to make
marble rye
.
marble rye
.
MAKES 2 LOAVES
Preparation time including rising and baking: 5 hours; active time: 45 minutes
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
2¾ cups bread flour
¾ cup medium or dark rye flour
¼ cup semolina
¼ cup cracked rye
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon medium-grind yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons caraway seeds
¾ cup (6 ounces)
Sourdough Starter
Sourdough Starter
1 cup lukewarm water
In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the warm water until dissolved. Let stand for 5 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, combine the flours, semolina, cracked rye, the ¼ cup cornmeal, the salt, and caraway seeds.
If using a stand mixer,
add the yeast mixture, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix on low speed with the dough hook for 5 minutes, or until the ingredients are combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to lose its rough texture. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead it by hand for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
add the yeast mixture, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix on low speed with the dough hook for 5 minutes, or until the ingredients are combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to lose its rough texture. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead it by hand for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
If making by hand,
add the yeast mixture, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
add the yeast mixture, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
Form the dough into a ball and place it in a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours, or until increased in size by one-third.
Sprinkle a baking sheet with the 1 tablespoon cornmeal. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 2 pieces. Shape each piece into an
oval
and place on the prepared pan. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 1½ hours, or until a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
oval
and place on the prepared pan. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 1½ hours, or until a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
Fifteen minutes before the bread has finished rising, remove all but the middle rack from the oven. Place a metal roasting pan on the floor of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.
Slash
the top of each loaf and mist them with water using a spray bottle. Wait at least 10 minutes for the slashes to begin to open.
Slash
the top of each loaf and mist them with water using a spray bottle. Wait at least 10 minutes for the slashes to begin to open.
Pour ½ cup cold water into a measuring cup and add enough ice cubes to bring the volume to 1 cup. Working quickly so that you don’t lose too much heat, place the baking sheet in the oven and pour the ice water into the roasting pan. Immediately close the oven door to maintain a steamy environment.
Bake for 5 minutes, then prepare another round of ice water and repeat the process. Bake 15 minutes longer, then rotate the baking sheet front to back. Bake 20 to 25 minutes longer, for a total baking time of 40 to 45 minutes, or until the bread is deep brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Using the spray bottle, mist the loaves to give the crust a glossy shine. Immediately close the oven door and bake for 1 minute. Transfer the loaves to a wire rack to cool.
I have learned so much here. The business is based on the idea of generosity—that is the basis of the collective and the ideals of the collective. It’s a way of thinking I was very unfamiliar with.
—LAURA
Pumpernickel
This recipe makes a dark, moist loaf, our only rye bread without caraway seeds. It’s not necessary to color the loaf, but the caramel coloring does make it a lovely rich brown.
MAKES 2 LOAVES
Preparation time including rising and baking: 5 hours; active time: 45 minutes
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
2½ cups bread flour
3½ cups medium rye flour
¼ cup pumpernickel rye flour
¼ cup semolina
¼ cup cracked rye
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon medium-grind yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons caramel color or unsweetened cocoa powder (optional)
1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses
1 cup (8 ounces)
Sourdough Starter
Sourdough Starter
1 cup lukewarm water
In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the warm water until dissolved. Let stand for 5 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, combine the flours, semolina, cracked rye, the ¼ cup cornmeal, and the salt.
If using a stand mixer,
add the yeast mixture, caramel color, molasses, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix on low speed with the dough hook for 5 minutes, or until the ingredients are combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to lose its rough texture. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
add the yeast mixture, caramel color, molasses, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix on low speed with the dough hook for 5 minutes, or until the ingredients are combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead the dough for 5 to 7 minutes, or until it pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to lose its rough texture. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for a few minutes, until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
If making by hand,
add the yeast mixture, caramel color, molasses, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
add the yeast mixture, caramel color, molasses, sourdough starter, and lukewarm water to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and a bit shiny.
Form the dough into a ball and place it in a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours, or until increased in size by one-third.
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