The Cheese Board (44 page)
Authors: Cheese Board Collective Staff
Where is the framework for the bread making? It’s written in our book of recipes. But that’s just a guide, in a way. It’s an oral, spoken framework that you learn over time. It’s probably a different framework for every person.
—PAUL
Experimental
Bread No. 7, or X Bread
Bread No. 7, or X Bread
Strange name, huh? We were trying to develop a new bread on the Friday-morning shift. For months, we put out experimental cheese breads for sale, labeled experimental bread No. 1, experimental bread No. 2, and so on. The bread kept changing until it reached its seventh incarnation; we were so happy with this spicy bun we decided it was a keeper.
MAKES 12 ROLLS
Preparation time including rising and baking: 3½ hours; active time: 45 minutes
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
¾ cup warm water
4 cups plus 1 tablespoon bread flour
½ cup sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes, at room temperature
½ cup Ricotta cheese
3 eggs
2 large jalapeño chiles, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 green onions, chopped (including green parts)
1 pound Cheddar cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the warm water until dissolved. Let stand for 5 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, combine the 4 cups flour, the sugar, and salt.
If using a stand mixer,
add the butter to the dry ingredients and cut it in with the paddle attachment on low speed for 4 minutes, or until it is the size of small peas. Add the yeast mixture, Ricotta cheese, and eggs, and mix on low speed until the ingredients are combined, about 2 minutes. Switch to the dough hook, increase the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 6 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the jalapeños and green onions with the 1 tablespoon flour. Add the jalapeños and green onions to the dough and continue to knead on medium speed until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. (The vegetables will add moisture to the dough, and you may need to adjust for this by adding a tablespoon or more of flour.) Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Flatten it into a 1-inch-thick round and place the Cheddar cheese in the center. Gather the dough around the cheese and knead just until the cheese is evenly distributed, taking care not to break it up.
add the butter to the dry ingredients and cut it in with the paddle attachment on low speed for 4 minutes, or until it is the size of small peas. Add the yeast mixture, Ricotta cheese, and eggs, and mix on low speed until the ingredients are combined, about 2 minutes. Switch to the dough hook, increase the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 6 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the jalapeños and green onions with the 1 tablespoon flour. Add the jalapeños and green onions to the dough and continue to knead on medium speed until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. (The vegetables will add moisture to the dough, and you may need to adjust for this by adding a tablespoon or more of flour.) Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Flatten it into a 1-inch-thick round and place the Cheddar cheese in the center. Gather the dough around the cheese and knead just until the cheese is evenly distributed, taking care not to break it up.
If making by hand,
add the butter to the dry ingredients and cut it in with a pastry cutter or 2 dinner knives until the size of small peas. Add the yeast mixture, Ricotta cheese, and eggs, and mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the jalapeños and green onions with the 1 tablespoon flour. Flatten the dough into a 1-inch-thick round and place the jalapeños and onions in the center. Gather the dough around the vegetables and knead until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. (The vegetables will add moisture to the dough, and you may need to adjust for this by adding a tablespoon or more of flour.) Flatten the dough once again and add the Cheddar cheese, kneading just long enough to evenly distribute the cheese throughout the dough, taking care not to break it up.
add the butter to the dry ingredients and cut it in with a pastry cutter or 2 dinner knives until the size of small peas. Add the yeast mixture, Ricotta cheese, and eggs, and mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the jalapeños and green onions with the 1 tablespoon flour. Flatten the dough into a 1-inch-thick round and place the jalapeños and onions in the center. Gather the dough around the vegetables and knead until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. (The vegetables will add moisture to the dough, and you may need to adjust for this by adding a tablespoon or more of flour.) Flatten the dough once again and add the Cheddar cheese, kneading just long enough to evenly distribute the cheese throughout the dough, taking care not to break it up.
Form the dough into a ball and place it in a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1¼ hours, or until doubled in size.
Lightly dust 2 baking sheets with flour. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 12 pieces. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rest for 10 minutes. Shape each piece into a
small round
and place each at least 3 inches apart on the prepared pans. Gently flatten the rolls with the palm of your hand. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 45 minutes, or until doubled in size and a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
small round
and place each at least 3 inches apart on the prepared pans. Gently flatten the rolls with the palm of your hand. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 45 minutes, or until doubled in size and a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
Fifteen minutes before the rolls have finished rising, arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Bake for 15 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back. Bake 15 minutes longer, for a total baking time of 30 minutes, or until the rolls are golden on the top and bottom. Transfer to a wire rack. While still hot, brush the rolls with the olive oil and sprinkle them with the Parmesan cheese. Let cool.
Being in the collective has to be more than a job. I’ve gotten so irritated with it on and off over the years and I’m still here. I think it has to be more than a job—it’s a calling!
—VICKI
Provolone Olive Bread
This braided loaf, full of big green California olives and cubes of sharp Provolone, is the first cheese bread we developed with a particular cheese in mind. Until then, cheese bread had just been a vehicle for using up odd cheese ends, but with the creation of this loaf, the door was opened for developing the numerous cheese breads we now serve.
MAKES 3 LOAVES
Preparation time including rising and baking: 3½ hours; active time: 30 minutes
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
½ cup warm water
3½ cups plus 1 tablespoon bread flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup lukewarm water
1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 pound sharp Provolone cheese, cut into ¾-inch cubes
½ cup pitted green olives, coarsely chopped
1 egg, beaten
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the warm water until dissolved. Let stand for 5 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, combine the 3 cups flour and the salt.
If using a stand mixer,
add the yeast mixture and lukewarm water to the bowl. Using the paddle attachment on low speed, mix until the ingredients are combined, about 2 minutes. Switch to the dough hook, increase the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 7 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the chopped onion with the 1 tablespoon flour. Add the onion to the dough and continue to knead on medium speed until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Flatten it into a 1-inch-thick round and place the cheese and olives in the center. Gather the dough around the cheese and olives and knead just until they are evenly distributed. (Kneading the dough too long will break up the cheese, and the olives will turn the dough a muddy color.)
add the yeast mixture and lukewarm water to the bowl. Using the paddle attachment on low speed, mix until the ingredients are combined, about 2 minutes. Switch to the dough hook, increase the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 7 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the chopped onion with the 1 tablespoon flour. Add the onion to the dough and continue to knead on medium speed until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Flatten it into a 1-inch-thick round and place the cheese and olives in the center. Gather the dough around the cheese and olives and knead just until they are evenly distributed. (Kneading the dough too long will break up the cheese, and the olives will turn the dough a muddy color.)
If making by hand,
add the yeast mixture and lukewarm water to the bowl and mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for at least 12 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the chopped onion with the 1 tablespoon flour. Flatten the dough into a 1-inch-thick round and place the onion in the center. Gather the dough around the onion and knead until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. Flatten the dough once again, add the cheese and olives, and knead just until they are evenly distributed. (Kneading the dough too long will break up the cheese, and the olives will turn the dough a muddy color).
add the yeast mixture and lukewarm water to the bowl and mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead for at least 12 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, silky, and elastic. In a small bowl, toss the chopped onion with the 1 tablespoon flour. Flatten the dough into a 1-inch-thick round and place the onion in the center. Gather the dough around the onion and knead until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. Flatten the dough once again, add the cheese and olives, and knead just until they are evenly distributed. (Kneading the dough too long will break up the cheese, and the olives will turn the dough a muddy color).
Form the dough into a ball and place it in a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
Lightly dust 2 baking sheets with flour. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 3 pieces. Gently form each piece into a
loose round
and cover
with a floured kitchen towel. Let rest for 10 minutes. Shape the rounds into
3-stranded braids
. Place 2 of the loaves on a prepared pan at least 4 inches apart, and place the third loaf in the center of the second pan. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 45 minutes, or until increased in size by one-third and a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
loose round
and cover
with a floured kitchen towel. Let rest for 10 minutes. Shape the rounds into
3-stranded braids
. Place 2 of the loaves on a prepared pan at least 4 inches apart, and place the third loaf in the center of the second pan. Cover with a floured kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place for 45 minutes, or until increased in size by one-third and a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.
Fifteen minutes before the loaves have finished rising, arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of the loaves with the beaten egg and sprinkle them with the sesame seeds.
Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back. Bake 20 minutes longer, for a total baking time of 40 minutes, or until the loaves are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
One Saturday afternoon I was in the back of the store washing dishes and the phone rang. I answered it, and on the other end of the line there was a little voice saying, “You seem to have a lot of new people working there.” I said, “Yes, what seems to be the problem?” “Well, I was waited on by somebody today. I ordered Ricotta, and as they served me, they dropped a little piece of it on the counter, and then they picked it up with their fingers and put it in my container. I was so upset by it that I didn’t say anything at the time. I was going to buy more cheese, but I didn’t. I went home. When I got home I took that Ricotta and I threw it out!” So I said, “Oh, I’m so sorry that happened and it upset you, and, of course, you should come back in and I’ll replace the cheese for you. Please tell me what that person looked like, and I’ll talk to them about that.” She said, “Well, she was blond, and she wore glasses, and she was heavyset.” All of a sudden, I realized that was
me.
(Oh—my—God, I’m
heavyset!
) I briskly told her, “Okay, I’ll talk to that person.” Then my better side got to me and I confessed, “I’ve got to tell you, that was me.” She got really embarrassed and said, “Oh, I’m so embarrassed, oh, oh!” I said, “Don’t be embarrassed, it’s fine. And actually, I’m not new here—I’ve been here twelve years.” “Oh? I’ve never seen you; I come there every Saturday.” I thought, “My God, how can you miss me, I’m so
heavyset
!”
me.
(Oh—my—God, I’m
heavyset!
) I briskly told her, “Okay, I’ll talk to that person.” Then my better side got to me and I confessed, “I’ve got to tell you, that was me.” She got really embarrassed and said, “Oh, I’m so embarrassed, oh, oh!” I said, “Don’t be embarrassed, it’s fine. And actually, I’m not new here—I’ve been here twelve years.” “Oh? I’ve never seen you; I come there every Saturday.” I thought, “My God, how can you miss me, I’m so
heavyset
!”
I kept waiting for her, and finally two weeks later she did arrive, and I replaced her cheese and promised her I would never do that again. I was very sorry and embarrassed about it. I did assure her that I wash my hands all the time. It’s true—we aren’t perfect.
—ERIN
•
OTHER CHEESE RECIPES
•
OTHER CHEESE RECIPES
•
Raclette
Raclette is a cheese made in the Valais region of Switzerland. Buttery and flowery in flavor, with pungent overtones, it melts beautifully and is the basis for a very simple but luxurious dish of the same name. The word
raclette
is derived from the French verb for “to scrape.” Traditionally, the dish is made by cutting an entire wheel of Raclette in half and melting it by propping it up facing a fire. As the cheese melts, the bubbling, softened portion of the cheese is scraped off, chewy rind and all, and spread over potatoes or bread. This is repeated until the entire half of a wheel is consumed. This method is a little hard to follow at home, but with a few modern modifications, it is an enjoyable and easy dish to prepare. All you need is a baking sheet set on the lowest rack of your broiler. If you love this dish, you can buy a Raclette grill that sits on the table. This device enables you to do the scraping as soon as a portion of the cheese is melted, and ensures a steady supply through the course of the meal. This dish is traditionally served with potatoes, pickled onions, and cornichons.
raclette
is derived from the French verb for “to scrape.” Traditionally, the dish is made by cutting an entire wheel of Raclette in half and melting it by propping it up facing a fire. As the cheese melts, the bubbling, softened portion of the cheese is scraped off, chewy rind and all, and spread over potatoes or bread. This is repeated until the entire half of a wheel is consumed. This method is a little hard to follow at home, but with a few modern modifications, it is an enjoyable and easy dish to prepare. All you need is a baking sheet set on the lowest rack of your broiler. If you love this dish, you can buy a Raclette grill that sits on the table. This device enables you to do the scraping as soon as a portion of the cheese is melted, and ensures a steady supply through the course of the meal. This dish is traditionally served with potatoes, pickled onions, and cornichons.
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