The Cheese Board (27 page)

Sprinkle a baking sheet with the cornmeal. Place the dough on the baking sheet and cover with a floured kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hour, or until soft enough to stretch easily without springing back.

In a small bowl, combine the crushed garlic and olive oil. Set aside.

Gently pull, pat, and stretch the dough to make a 7 by 11-inch rectangle with an even thickness throughout. Brush with the garlic oil and cover with a floured kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm place for at least 2 hours, or until increased in size by one-fourth.

While the dough is rising, make the pesto. In a food processor, combine the basil, garlic, and pine nuts, and process until almost smooth. Add the Parmesan cheese and pulse to combine. With the machine running, gradually add the olive oil to make a smooth purée. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and set aside.

Remove all but the middle rack from the oven. If using a baking stone, 45 minutes before the dough has finished rising, place the stone on the floor of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. If using a baking sheet only, preheat the oven to 400°F 15 minutes before the dough has finished rising.

Using the tips of your fingers, dimple the dough over the entire surface.

If using a baking stone,
place the baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the sheet front to back. Bake 10 minutes longer. Slide the focaccia from the pan directly onto the baking stone and bake 5 more minutes, for a total baking time of 30 minutes, or until crisp on the bottom and lightly browned on top.

If using a baking sheet only,
place the focaccia in the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the baking sheet front to back. Bake 15 minutes longer, for a total baking time of 30 minutes, or until crisp on the bottom and lightly browned on top.

Transfer the focaccia to a wire rack and brush with the garlic oil. Using a rubber spatula, apply a thin layer of pesto. Sprinkle with the green onions and Parmesan cheese. Let cool for a few minutes. Serve warm.

 

Ricotta Salata, Lemon Zest, and Cilantro Focaccia

Ricotta Salata is a dry, firm, salty sheep’s-milk cheese traditionally used to garnish pasta. We love its saltiness. The addition of lemon and cilantro gives this Italian bread a Mexican twist. The flavors are bright, fresh, and clean, perfect for a summer day.

Sprinkle a baking sheet with the cornmeal. Place the dough on the baking sheet and cover with a floured kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hour, or until soft enough to stretch easily without springing back.

In a small bowl, combine the crushed garlic and olive oil. Set aside.

Gently pull, pat, and stretch the dough to make a 7 by 11-inch rectangle with an even thickness throughout. Brush with the garlic oil and cover with a floured kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for at least 2 hours, or until increased in size by one-fourth.

Remove all but the middle rack from the oven. If using a baking stone, 45 minutes before the dough has finished rising, place the stone on the floor of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. If using a baking sheet only, preheat the oven to 400°F 15 minutes before the dough has finished rising.

Using the tips of your fingers, dimple the dough over the entire surface.

If using a baking stone,
place the baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the sheet front to back. Bake 10 minutes longer. Slide the focaccia off the pan directly onto the baking stone and bake 5 more minutes, for a total baking time of 30 minutes, or until crisp on the bottom and lightly browned on top.

If using a baking sheet only,
place the focaccia in the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the baking sheet front to back. Bake 15 minutes longer, for a total baking time of 30 minutes, or until crisp on the bottom and lightly browned on top.

Transfer the foccacia to a wire rack and brush with the garlic oil. Sprinkle with the Ricotta Salata, then the lemon zest and cilantro. Let cool for a few minutes. Serve warm.

Suburban Bread

This bread got its name because, unlike the City Bread (made with all white flour) and the now retired Country Bread (made with all whole-wheat flour), it is made with a combination of white and whole-wheat flours. Our Suburban Bread dough, like our master sourdough, can be used to make a number of other breads. A long, slow rise gives this bread its pronounced sour flavor and chewy, holey texture. Undermixing or overmixing the dough will affect the final architecture of the bread, so observe the kneading time with the knowledge that it may be necessary to knead the dough a little more or a little less to achieve a smooth, shiny dough that passes the
windowpane test
. Using a baking stone will enhance the crust of this bread.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, combine the flours and wheat bran.

If using a stand mixer,
add the water to the bowl and mix on low speed with the paddle attachment until the ingredients are thoroughly combined, about 2 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes. Add the salt and sourdough starter. Switch to the dough hook, increase the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 12 minutes, or until the dough is slightly tacky and soft. (After a couple of minutes, the dough should gather around the hook; you can add extra flour by the tablespoonful if the dough does not pull away from the sides of the bowl.) Transfer to a lightly floured surface and
knead
by hand for about 5 minutes, or until the dough is smooth, shiny, and passes the windowpane test.

If making by hand,
add the water to the bowl and mix with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Let rest for 10 minutes. Add the salt and sourdough starter, and mix until all the ingredients are combined. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and
knead
for 15 minutes, adding flour by the tablespoonful as necessary to keep the dough from sticking. The kneading is complete when the dough is smooth, shiny, and passes the windowpane test.

Form the dough into a ball and place it in a large oiled bowl. Turn the dough over to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for at least 5 hours, or until doubled in size. Alternatively, either put the dough in a cool place (60°F) and let it rise overnight, or refrigerate the dough overnight and let it stand at room temperature for 2 hours the next day before proceeding with the recipe.

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 2 pieces. Gently form each piece into a
loose round
and cover with a floured kitchen towel. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Shape the dough into
large rounds
. Flour the insides of 2 proofing baskets or lightly flour a baking sheet. Place the loaves in the baskets, seam side up, or seam side down on the prepared pan. Or, shape the dough into
bâtards
and let rise in oblong proofing baskets or directly on a prepared baking sheet.

Put the loaves in a
proofing chamber
and let rise in a warm place for 5 hours, until increased in size by one-half and a finger pressed into the dough leaves an impression.

If using a baking stone,
45 minutes before the bread is finished rising, arrange the oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Place the baking stone on the lower rack and place a metal roasting pan on the floor of the oven. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

If using a baking sheet only,
15 minutes before the loaves have finished rising, remove all but the middle rack from the oven and place a metal roasting pan on the oven floor. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

If rising the dough in baskets, lightly dust a baking sheet with flour and turn the baskets upside-down to gently release the loaves onto the sheet 4 inches apart.
Slash
the top of the loaves. If rising on a sheet, slash the top of the loaves and, using a spray bottle, lightly mist them with water and dust with flour.

Pour ½ cup cold water into a measuring cup and add enough ice cubes to bring the volume to 1 cup. Working quickly so that you don’t lose too much heat, place the baking sheet in the oven and pour the ice water into the roasting pan. Immediately close the oven door to maintain a steamy environment.

Bake for 5 minutes, then prepare another round of ice water and repeat the process. Bake for 15 minutes longer, then rotate the baking sheet front to back. Bake at least 25 more minutes, for a total baking time of 45 minutes, or until the bread is deep brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Or, if using a baking stone, 5 minutes before the end of the bake, transfer the breads from the pan directly onto the stone and finish the bake. Transfer the loaves to a wire rack to cool.