Stitch 'n Bitch: The Knitter's Handbook (53 page)

12 sts and 20 rows = 4" in garter st

D
IRECTIONS

Break out a measuring tape and jot down your dog’s measurements:

A:
Length from the top of the front leg over the back to the top of the other front leg.

B:
Length from the base of the neck (where the collar would sit) to the base of the tail.

C:
Distance around the thickest part of the body.

D:
Length from the neck to where you want the sweater to end underneath (remember bodily functions).

BODY

Begin with the “back” rectangle. CO the number of sts you’d need to match measurement A, deducting 2" for stretch (for a dog with a 16"-wide back, for instance, you’d cast on enough stitches to make a 14"-wide piece—at this gauge, that would mean 42 stitches). Work in garter st to the desired length B. BO loosely.

This next piece is the underside of the sweater (or the distance from the neck to the beginning of the belly), so it’ll be several inches shorter than the back. CO the number of sts to make up the amount “missing” from measurement C (C minus A). For example: If you made a 16"-wide back (before 2" deduction), and the dog is 21" around at the widest part of his body, the bottom rectangle will need to be the difference of 5". Work to desired length D. BO loosely.

After you’ve made the two rectangles, sew them together for 2" from the neck edge, leaving 3" unsewn for leg openings; then sew the rest of the pieces together (see diagram).

CUFFS

With dpns, pu sts evenly (about 3 sts for every 1" of fabric) around the leg openings and work in garter stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) for 2".

COWL

With dpns, pu sts evenly (about 3 st for every 1" of fabric) around neck edge and work in St st (k all rnds). The cowl will roll, with the purl side showing. When work measures 5", BO loosely.

ABOUT DIANA

My great-grandmother and my mom were the ultimate craft role models, and I’m still trying to live up to them. A knitter since the age of eight, I have yet to lose my (some would say obsessive) enthusiasm for all things handmade. In addition to designing an eponymous line of knitwear and patterns for kids and grown-ups, I spend my time teaching at MAKE, a knitting and design studio in Manhattan (
www.makeworkshop.com
).

BECKY DELGADO

Until recently, I had knit things only for my brother’s children or for my son. One day, while visiting my local yarn shop, I admired a striped sweater I saw hanging in the display window, and the yarn shop owner—who had by then become my knitting buddy—told me that I could easily knit it for myself. I picked out yarn and she pulled out her calculator, showing me how to estimate yarn amounts for the project. With a bit of help from her and my knitting books, I came up with an easy pattern and knit the sweater. For the first time ever, I had a custom-made sweater! What I love about it is that it has all the colors I’ve always wanted in a sweater, but couldn’t find until I came up with it myself. And it’s the only sweater I’ve ever owned that fits me the way I want—thanks to raglan armholes, waist shaping, and the drape of the cotton yarn.

S
IZES

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Finished bust: 34 (36, 39, 42)"

Finished length: 18½ (19½, 20¼, 21)"

M
ATERIALS

Rowan
Cotton Glace
(100% cotton; 50g/125 yds)

MC:
7 skeins #724 Bubbles

A:
2 skeins #799 Glee

B:
1 skein #805 Passion

C:
Phildar
Sunset
(65% acetate/35% polyester; 25g/219 yds), 1 skein Indien

US 2 (3mm) 16" circular needle

US 2 (3mm) knitting needles, or size needed to obtain gauge

G
AUGE

24 sts and 34 rows = 4" in St st with
Cotton Glace

COLOR PATTERN (IN ST ST)

4 rows A, 6 rows B, 2 rows C, 2 rows MC, 6 rows A,

4 rows B, 4 rows C, 4 rows A, 2 rows MC,

2 rows B, 2 rows C, 8 rows A, 2 rows MC, 4 rows C, 4 rows B,

6 rows MC.

Rep these 62 rows throughout patt.

Note:
C is worked with 2 strands held tog.

D
IRECTIONS

FRONT AND BACK

With MC, CO 94 (98, 106, 114) sts and work even in k2, p2 rib until piece meas 1½" from beg, end with a RS row. P one row. Cont in St st foll color patt for 18 rows, ending with a WS row.

SHAPE WAIST

Inc row (RS): K2, M1, k to last 2 sts, M1, k2. Rep inc row every 14th row 3 times, then every 12th row 1 (2, 2, 1) time(s)—104 (110, 118, 124) sts. Work even until piece meas 11½ (11
³
/
₄
, 12, 12¼)" from beg, ending with a WS row.

SHAPE RAGLAN ARMHOLES

BO 3 (3, 4, 4) sts at the beg of next 2 rows—98 (104, 110, 116) sts rem. Cont to work even in color patt;
at the same time,
*BO 1 st at beg of next 2 rows, then work 2 rows even; rep from * once more; then BO 1 st at beg of every row until 46 (46, 48, 48) sts rem. Place rem sts on a stitch holder.

SLEEVES

With MC, CO 66 (66, 70, 70) sts and work even in k2, p2 rib until piece meas 1½" from beg, ending with a RS row. P 1 row. Inc row (RS): K2, M1, k to last 2 sts, M1, k2. Rep inc row every 12th (8th, 8th, 6th) row 4 (7, 8, 11) times more—76 (82, 88, 94) sts. Work even in St st until piece meas 10 (10½, 11, 11½)" from beg.

SHAPE SLEEVE CAPS

BO 3 (3, 4, 4) sts at the beg of next 2 rows—70 (76, 80, 86) sts. *BO 1 st at beg of next 2 rows, then work 2 rows even; rep from * once more, then BO 1 st at beg of every row until 18 sts rem. Place rem sts on a stitch holder.

FINISHING

With MC threaded on a yarn needle, sew raglan sleeve caps to front and back armholes. Sew side and sleeve seams.

NECKBAND

Place all sts at neck edge on the circular needle—128 (128, 132, 132) sts. Join yarn at back left seam.

Rnd 1: **K2tog, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to 2 sts from next seam, skp; rep from ** around—120 (120, 124, 124) sts.

Rnd 2: K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.

Rep rnd 2 four times more or until neckband measures approx 1". BO all sts firmly in ribbing (but not too tightly) to keep ribbing from flaring out at the neck.